Nekhbet

Sounds like you are just as stressed as the dog is. What would happen if you dropped the dog off with the staff and left it with them for a while? Stop worrying. Cartrophen needles dont hurt and you are convincing yourself and the dog to keep behaving in this manner. Walk in calmly and settle her down BEFORE walking into the clinic. Get there half an hour early, trundle around the car park for a while and let her get some stress out. Get them to call you, walk her in calmly and ignore her stressing, its habitual. Nurses can give cartrophen so even getting a nurse to scratch her head hard and treat her, you talk to her and the other jabs her in 2 seconds. Easy. We get quite a few dogs that 'hate needles' 'hate vets' 'hyperactive, aggressive, out of control' - just show them there is no place for this behaviour and they stop, even having the owner leave the room can be the way to go because they feed the dogs behaviour. Its not fear, its stress. You stress, she stresses more.

what breeds do you have ... If they are sight hounds I wouldnt reccomend any sort of head collar if they have a tendency to pull.

4 months onwards

6-8 weeks, 12 weeks and 16 weeks c3 - c5 - c5 wouldnt trust anything less especially having a twice vacc dog with Parvo myself. The 3 yearly is a specific vaccine created for that purpose but does not cover all diseases. the next vaccine after 16 weeks is at 16 months of age and every 12 months after.

Thats not aggression, from the sounds of it he doesnt understand how to interact with new people and he's getting mixed signals from you two. You should have nipped this at the bud when he first started not let it progress. which area are you in, a good trainer/school is advisable

what method of obedience are you using

if its just an incisor keep an eye on it. They dont have massive roots so they just tend to tinkle out onto the floor if the time comes. Larger teeth will be needing dental work by a good, experienced vet. Human dentists and vets are two separate things and the way they metablise anaesthetics/medications is different. I wouldnt be letting a dentist touch my dog.

fleabomb the whole house the carpet isnt the only place fleas will crawl and lay eggs in

Grab Advocate and start using that as well. It kills both types of mites, fleas, worms and heartworm as well as ear mites. (from vets/pet stores) WHat type of dry food are you using?

use go-kart tyres - car tyres contain wire that will cut your dogs mouth to shreds

Dogs shouldnt vomit a lot at all. It indicates an upset or an obstruction and its unhealthy for the dog. DO NOT give the dog anything it shoudnt ingest and cardboard can cause a problem. There are chemicals used in finishing and processing that are not made to be ingested in a lot of products. 2Lt coke bottles with the lid and seal removed are good, you can even shove some large kibble in there so the dog has to try and rattle it out - just keep an eye on it

how big is she? Give her bones (lamb necks, flaps etc) and remove all things for her to chew or contain her until she gets the idea that only certain things are to be chewed. Try AUSSIE DOG TOYS they are fairly indestructible. The Wubbas are fairly small I would get her something hardier like a normal Kong and stuff her breakfast in it, have a look at www.kongcompany.com for ideas

How about Cosequin? Our boss has done the seminars and is Penn Hip registered and he says its the best for the money you spend on it

I would walk him a few times a day, how was the incision done? keep him dry and even if you can convince your father to let the dog sit in the laundry during rain so he doesnt get an infection

well its because some people can beleive that if its not completely necessary dont bother. Its like some parents dont beleive that because we dont see diseases every day its not necessary. Puppies growing up in sterile environments need their immune systems stimulated - in nature animals are bombarded with diseases every day and the strongest survive. Vaccinating is there to stimulate the dog to produce an immune response to the most common diseases and if we stop vaccinating they will return, since we have wild populations of canids that still carry them.

when you forget that statement it will be easier. If she's still going inside put her on a leash whilst inside or limit her to your immediate vicinity. Maybe you are missing signals she is giving so if she starts looking around or you notice any change at all outside. Also if you free feed her you will notice its hard to predict when she will need to go, so if you feed her twice/3 times a day she will need to go that many times as well.

considering the pup has no immunity any more there is no such thing as overkill. The point of 3 vaccinations on that month apart succession is to build a decent immune response in the puppy. The pup is still in a growing/forming stage at 6-8 weeks hence we give the C3. We reccomend the C5 twice more at our clinic because its not just something you pick up in kennels and having a pup catch it when its that age is not pretty ... it can lead to all sorts of other things a young dogs body is not made to handle. Ask for her to give yours a C3 before you get it

C3 at 6-8 weeks then C5 a month after that, then another C5 another month after that one. Done for 12 months

Ask your OH if he will be happy to start paying for all the problems that go with an overweight animal and is he happy that he will cause eventual suffering if not an early death to her. And be serious because thats what can happen. I see a lot of people that dont take it seriously and 'oh you know I cant help it, when they look at you like that' or 'its only a little bit' Dogs were not designed to be fat animals. Their backs, internal organs and joints suffer for it ESPECIALLY in larger breeds. Grab a wooden spoon and smack him on the knuckles 1st. Then fill his pockets with diet kibble and he can feed her like that or from the designated 'Treat Bowl' in the fridge with approved food in it. Nothing more or another smack on the knuckles. You have to be tough or that dog will never lose weight.

The C3 is Distemper, Parvovirus and Canine Hepatitis. There is no measles in dogs. The C5 adds the most common viral and bacterial respiratory infections. I wouldnt say Distemper is a non issue - vaccination and control of feral animals controls distemper but its never gone completely. you need to give 2 more C5 vaccinations if you want to start taking the dog out. One 4 weeks after the one the breeder gives and another 4 weeks after that one. I wouldnt be taking the pup to a dog beach especially now its warmer it will be swarming with dogs and dog poo. Dogs shed viruses all over the place not just where the water washes and your pup is covered for absolutely nothing. I would a week after the second but for now find quieter places with less dogs if you want to take it out.

up the amount of food given, remember pups are meant to be a bit leaner. If her spins, hips and ribs are showing then swap. Get the hamburger mince (preservative free) as it has a higher fat content. I would try a different brand of dog food like Royal Canin/Eagle Pack/Nutrience, some breeds need better quality food and because the pup is going to be a solid dog get a large breed formula and grow the dog slooooooooooowly eggs and cheese isnt really the best start to the day, give dry food/fatty mince in the morning, dry and night and a lighter meal in the evening. This way the pup has time to digest the food and not use too much of its already stored reserves

probably because of the poms body size. Our vet here will do a femoral IV for fluids to make sure the fliud gets into the system quickly. If you tried to stick it in the leg - there's no catheter little enough to rehydrate quickly enough. Ask about femoral IVs

There are some dogs that are genuinely 'problem dogs' and you can see that from a pup - there is definately a screw loose and the best thing for everyone is PTS. I just put down a dog recently that was a rescue and so beyond any help that in itself wasnt extremely cruel. No one I knew could come up with a better answer then PTS or extreme sedation. This was a dog that ripped timber off the wall, nearly smashed a window (lucky it was a fraction open he just bent the frame), and ran around screaming if he couldnt see me for more then 10 seconds - this escalated worst and worst on a daily basis. Many problems stem from : - wrong dog for that owner - many people look at the 'look' of the breed without considering the actual physical and mental needs of the dog. IE kelpies that get a walk twice a day but spend 8 hrs in a small yard then owner wonders why the dog barks at passers by. The working line shepherd that stands and barks at the sky during the day. THe labrador that digs all over the yard but has heaps of toys. This can also come down to (and I'm not bashing anyones methods at all) but refusal to use the right methods for the dogs problems. I use what works for the dog AS LONG AS ITS NOT CRUEL. If a dog needs a prong, or a halti, or flat collar, or purely positive whatever. Dont plug away at something that doesnt work adn what scares me is owners that refuse to correct their dogs because it may 'hurt their feelings' - lack of education - since I started this job i have been ASTOUNDED to what some professionals will tell owners. A fence jumping Basenji a vet told the owner toe TETHER unattended for up to 10hrs a day... FFS

Congratulations for being a great responsible dog owner!!! I have seen so many people burying their heads in the sand lately its great to see someone seek help and everyone come out happy!!!

can we just add that make sure you get a dog from a good breeder and you see how the dogs live and behave. Any dogs that are a 'bit shy'or 'oh he's a bit protective I wouldnt pat him' is not something I would purchase for children (especially if you want bomb proof) I think an older dog or at least something out of the baby puppy stage would be easiest. This way you dont have as much work while your kids are young and the dog can be more forgiving to a little rough play from the younger kids. Staffies, Labs and Golden Retrievers are a classic choice but yes generally are best and boombproof for the kiddies. Depends what size dog you want too and what you have owned in the past, for me Rottweilers, German Shepherds and Dogue de Bordeauxs can be great but you need to be prepared for the size. They are easier when a little older too. My bordeaux is a fabulous kids dog, he plays gently and never nips or bites. He even lies down when toddlers come near him ... but with anything training does contribute to how the dog turns out. A dog that has learned to run madly with kids will see any child as something to nip or bodyslam not out of malice but playful habit. So then a littly may be the way to go, shows are a great start.