Nekhbet

That's what concerns me the most. A child has died, and people are in a frenzy to look like they're doing something productive about it. How many knee jerk reactions have happened about dogs in the past few years, more laws that don't get properly policed.

Miranda has said that Pit Bull labels APBTs, American Staffordshire Terriers and Staffordshire Bull Terriers. All these breeds and anything like them (she considers mastiffs pit bull types too) are to be MANDATORILY handed in to the council for euthanasia and the council will provide you with a more 'suitable' breed from a rescue/pound and the taxpayer foots the bill. Don't be fooled by this, her ideas are sick and amount to the mass euthanasia of thousands of innocent dogs.

http://m.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/nsw/local-government-minister-don-page-considers-miranda-devine-dog-buyback-scheme/story-fni0cx12-1226693108076 Local Government Minister Don Page considers Miranda Devine dog 'buyback' scheme NEIL KEENE and ALICIA WOOD The Daily Telegraph August 08, 2013 12:00AM Muzzle the mutts Source: DailyTelegraph KILLER dogs could be surrendered as part of a "buyback" scheme being considered by the state government. Local Government Minister Don Page has asked his department to review the scheme suggested by Daily Telegraph columnist Miranda Devine. "We are a reformist government and we will put any serious suggestion into the mix. Ms Devine's plan has been referred to the division of local government for consideration," said the minister, who doesn't own a dog himself. The buyback scheme, similar to John Howard's gun buyback, would allow owners of all dangerous dogs, including pitbulls, to leave their dogs with the local council. MIRANDA DEVINE - TIME'S UP FOR DEADLY DOGS WHEN GOOD DOGS GO BAD, GET OUT OF THE WAY OWNERS ARE OBLIVIOUS, SAYS DOG ATTACK VICTIM WHY DIDN'T DOG TAKE ME? - TODDLER DEEON'S GRANDMOTHER They would then be able to choose a safer dog from the tens of thousands waiting for homes in pounds, and be financially compensated for their trouble. Restricted breeds in NSW include pitbulls, Japanese tosas, dogo argentino and fila brasileiros. Between 2011 and 2013, there were 2451 dog attacks in NSW where the breed wasn't identified, 1180 attacks by bull terriers, and 625 attacks by Australian cattle dogs. Since Barry O'Farrell came to power, there have been two reviews into dog safety laws following attacks. In the UK, the government is considering the penalty of life in prison for owners of dogs who cause injury or death. "The point was made in the parliamentary debate on the amendment that the current level of maximum penalty for an aggravated dog attack of two years imprisonment is too low, given the devastating effect that dog attacks can have on peoples' lives and on assistance dogs," a UK government briefing said.' Dog attack victim Deeon Higgins. Source: Supplied "Overall, there is a range of possible maximum sentences between two years' imprisonment and life that might apply in different circumstances." In NSW, the toughest penalty available for the owner of a dog that attacks is two years prison and a $55,000 fine, but that only applies to dogs declared dangerous or prohibited. Charlestown MP and veterinarian Andrew Cornwell, chairman of the state government's Companion Animals Taskforce, said the current "piecemeal" legislation was a result of kneejerk decisions of the past. "We found as a taskforce that the former government left us with laws that had been made as kneejerk responses to incidents and therefore did not meet the community's needs," he said. "We have to make sure that any legal changes we make we get right. They have to be able to stand the test of time."

More Malinois ... more and more and more :laugh: I'm planning on keeping my entire first litter for myself and building my kennel from there :) I've found my dream lines, they exceed everyone's expectations and they're perfect. If I could clone my girl a thousand times over I would :) Only took me a decade but I got there lol

I always let the new dog calm down, settle in and gain it's trust before proper face to face introductions. If that means a baby gate or crate in/out for a while so be it. I have never had a fight as by the time they are actually introduced that novelty of a new dog and smell has worn off completely. I would wait until the new one gains her bearings.

Two that spring to mind for me are a malamute who grabbed another trainer on the arm and was deemed 'unpredictable'. Correction chain taught him respect and he's safe to walk in public. The other was a supposed DA dog that was a screaming fit on a lead. One session with a correction chain he walked past other dogs without lunging out to grab them. Both were on a one way street as they could supposedly not be safely walked or controlled. As for the sentence highlighted not making sense, how not? I get quite a few dogs that have been recommended to be euthanised because R+ only has not fixed them and hence been forever deemed a liability/unfixable. It's why I call my dog school Last Chance Ranch, we take in anyone and we don't give up. As for being raised with an owner with a basic understanding of canine behavior, that's a tad arrogent. Not all dogs get a good start, not all dogs can be trained in one cookie cutter method either. Rescue dogs need to be retrained however it takes to give them a good chance of finding or retaining a home. Yes I do. My original point was in the lines of when the dog is out on the hunt, to avoid snakes when out of range of the handler. I teach detection in my classes with both food and through drive. So how would you solve it then?

I said by technicality and definition it is not an antibiotic. I know exactly that it is used as a feed additive and growth promoter in livestock overseas because it inhibits the growth of bacterial colonies. I don't dispute at all that it's not a good idea, I wouldn't use it either in any of my dogs and I refuse to use any products that are low dose ABs/inhibitors because of the potential for resistance.

So say a feral cat detection dog moving through scrub way out ahead of you. How do you use a clicker out there when sometimes you can't even see the dog? How do you make sure when the dog goes out of sight it will remember the lesson about snakes when it's so driven with it's nose planted in excitement? I've seen plenty of 'gentle' alternatives cause harm. Physical scars. Dogs out of control. Remember the option to failing R+ only training in behaviors like aggressive responses is death. Because that's scientifically so much better. Don't make me list the dog's I've saved from the green dream because of a basic correction chain. I guess those dogs didn't get to read the scientific papers that said they should respond better to R+ only.

It's your house, not the dogs. Put up a baby gate and put rules in place so the dogs can get used to each other without being in direct contact with each other. It's not hard to keep dogs separate when you're not home, heck I don't even leave all of mine together when I'm not home as 5 bitches left to their own devices is not a pleasant thought. You need money. The dogs can learn to live with it.

The aversion training is used mainly in working dogs, like detection dogs and working dogs. So we lock them up during snake season? Bugger if you're up north where it's snake season all the time, those dogs will spend their entire lives in crates then. Good luck to them. If you had a detection dog already trained to alert on a scent why would you want them to alert on something no target? You want the dog to avoid it and get on with it's job, not reward an already high drive dog for showing any interest in something that would potentially kill it. The point is a lot of people want total avoidance, that there is NO reward factor in this situation at all and there is nothing to gain. The point is the dog is to think, oh crap snake OPPOSITE DIRECTION NOW, not Oooooh snake, let's stare at it for a bit. It's these pages of people saying I reckon, I know etc. The point of the training is to cement the behavior when you are not in range, or home, or near the dog. Teach the dog to think the situation provides the aversive, not the owner, and thats how to train a dog not to touch snakes.

Who came up with that? Train a wild animal not to go for an easy meal :laugh: a hungry stomach conquers all.

Have you actually seen how little it takes to get a gun license? One open book test basically telling you not to point the tubular open end at your own face. You use E-collars in conjunction with prey training to get super performance. It's not an electric shock at all since the pulse does NOT course through the dogs whole body like an electric fence which is using the animal (or you) to close the curcuit between the fence and the ground. Try an e collar on your hand, most people who try them cant believe how little they actually feel. There are some idiots out there who use e-collars to get a harder bite in protection. Frankly I think some of those people need the collar strapped around their nuts. Saying that they can get the same thing from using other types of collars or other equipment so it's not the collar, again it's the douche handling the dog. Are you willing to bet that on a dog worth tens of thousands of dollars in time, breeding and training? I wouldn't. Particularly in dogs that are not just pet temperament either. Here is a dog trained a combination of prey drive and e-collar. This is Bart Bellon, a premier sportdog trainer.

A bigger problem is we don't condition puppies to be along from a young age and to be separated off. The most common thing I hear is screaming, scratching, bashing etc Why? Because a lot of breeder's dont split up the pups, pack them off for a day or two to someone else they trust etc. I've seen dogs raised like this from a couple of working breeders and these dogs come to a new home not giving a toss, and stay that way. This is from breeds reputed to be clingy/high strung. If you don't teach them it's part of life, they don't know how to cope with it. Dogs can learn to cope and amuse themselves as long as the owners spend enough time outside of work time with the dog to make up for it.

It's not hard to teach someone start too low and creep up until you just notice the dog realises a sensation. Most dogs that get an accidental whack which is too high can bounce back fine. If anyone's stupid enough to crank up the collar and stand there watching their dog peak out, well you shouldn't own a dog.

They're brilliant for general obedience as well. It's not rocket science how to use one on your dog properly, I'm more sick of people constantly calling equipment 'advanced' or 'high potential for harm'. It's rubbish. Most of this equipment was developed so the general owner could train their dog in general obedience or dog sports. Nothing really magical there.

I teach by helping the dog with learning a new command, eg luring then phasing back the physical action and only rewarding when there is focus on the handler. You can teach speed as part of the learning phase too, and frankly if the dog is doing things slowly or staring at you like a twit I wouldn't make a party out of it. When the dog is asked to perform a command it understands and does not comply, I give an 'uh uh' which is the cue for a mistake has been made. It's not a punisher but a neutral sounding command that tells the dog 'try again', great for slow compliance or poor positioning. This way as soon as an error is made the dog knows what it is, and to try harder next time. I find it keeps the dogs motivated and even puppies will try harder to get that reward. If the dog is constantly making errors its the fault of the handler IMO, they've gone too far too fast or they have been rewarding (read that also as not fixing) problem behaviors. A non reward marker should not confuse the dog. If it is confusing the dog then it doesn't understand what you mean and you need to teach it. Get it up, get it moving and help it try again. Don't let a dog shut down and sit there, especially sensitive ones. If you have to make them get up and run with you to pep up again, do it. Revelling in ones own self made pity does not dog any favours.

The potential for cruelty goes for any item. A stick can be cruel if you whack the dog with it repeatedly, a flat collar can be cruel if you wrench it or hang a dog by it. The dog needs to learn snakes are off limits, no iffs, buts or hows. If you want to risk your dog with other methods that dont leave a lasting impression, good luck. I know trainers who have very expensive and well trained working dogs, it's the only thing they will use and have found effective. Especially in a working dog that can be so focussed on it's job you need something that immediately brings up a warning if it detects a hint of it. Remember, cruelty is always in the hands of the human, never the equipment.

Are you sure he's waiting for you or is he just amusing himself because it's the only thing that is dynamic for him during the day? If he can see things moving and changing of course he'll stare out of the window, especially if he's in a quiet apartment. Dogs are inquisitive by nature and being in the same 4 walls every work day can become tedious, especially if he's eaten breakfast and not hungry enough to really want to interact with the kong. Remember a cocker is a little hunting dog, and he's in a sterile environment for long periods. Exercise him morning and night as much as you can so he actually does want to sleep when you're not home. I wouldn't call is SA, I would call it the dog finding a way to amuse himself. Leave the TV on during the day and see if that gets his interest, feed him out of his kongs and get him some toys that are actually interactive and a bit of a challenge.

Come on ... be pedantic ... Specialty show Open Show US show German show British Show DDR West German Czech Black Long coat

If he's losing muscle and hungry, feed him several smaller meals a day and overall up the food content. In the mean time give him raw carrots to chew on. Can he have fresh foods like meats? If he can't have them raw can you cook up some mince for him and add something like some soaked oats to help the muscle come back? There is also the Sprinter Gold Muscle Pro powder, I've used in on my dog when she had acidosis, worked wonders.

Yup there's definitely a time and a place for it. The dog's need to concentrate on the job, not go bananas due to too much prey drive. The popularity of sports has also created some dogs with too much drive, some people think it's a brilliant thing. I've seen these dogs fried with E-collars and they still don't calm down. There's a different behind a high drive dog and just crap.

There are big variations in working lines as well, some have high prey drive, some types are sharper and more willing to react and other have lower prey drive, high nerve. You don't need a mass of prey drive to be a good protection dog and some lines don't carry it. Malinois are different, very different dogs from GSDs. They too don't need to be bred with prey coming out of their ears and most lines also don't need prey development like you would a GSD. In fact it can end badly if you just keep encouraging it. I like the old lines I have now, the IPO lines are too wound up for me.

It's not too confusing it's in fact part of dog most dog sports to do a command like drop during recall. You're rewarding it that's why she's still doing it. Why reward for only a few steps, it's something you dont want at all and what is the point of a reward - to perpetuate the expression of a behavior. You can't extinguish what you reward. Start only a few steps away, do a recall and say DROP. If the dog does not straight away, give a non reward marker like UH UH, and start the exercise again - no complience, no reward. Put parameters on what you want and aim for them straight away, the more small mistakes you accept and reward the more the dog will keep doing them. Another thing as well is if the dog gets up for the clicker, just give the dog a 'good girl' finish the recall from the drop and reward when she returns. Confusion occurs because the dog does not full understand what you want when you give a command. Make sure your dogs understand the commands and that you can have not conditioned the dog to just exhibit the command under certain circumstances (eg only drop when stationary, heeling only in forward motion etc) It's why when I teach all the school dogs commands we do them up on equipment, surfaces, owner in front/behind, moving, not moving etc. The dogs can easily do a drop/sit in motion because we teach them from the start you do it straight away (and I don't let people repeat commands)

The Young Diggers K9 program is supported by my business and Steve Austin in NSW is the driving force. A really great program, anyone with PTSD and other trauma based conditions really appreciates what help dogs truely are.

I use the Vets All Natural range and would happily raise pups on it. I can vary the protein amount between the dogs I have depending on their needs and also what kind of protein I put in. I even used it to raise baby ferrets (just the nutritional powder and mince) they're all bouncing and very healthy. There is no more risk to your children eating raw then there is a commercial diet. By that logic you shouldn't kiss your kids on the cheek after eating sushi ;) the digestive and immune systems are made to handle bacteria and invaders quite easily, nothing to worry about.