Nekhbet

GSDhandler there is no reason a security dog should mouth you ... I have 2 and trust me no soft bites here. It is a respect issue, not a bite issue. You need to build drive and move the dog from rag - toy - sleeve - bite suite slowly and build grip, drive and focus over time. At this age mouthing is still a no-no you need to build confidence and stability in your dog as well. Play, yes the more the better in the long run, build the relationship but you are not being consistant. No the dog does not know the difference between soft and later hard. When you start putting your dog under pressure down the track in training and you have some interesting behaviours crop up then you will know why. Also none of my dogs have ever redirected and bit me because mouthing was NEVER allowed. Teaching your pup to never mouth will not kill the workability - if it does get a refund NOW!

GSDhandler dogs do not have enough logic. Its either everything or nothing for them - they can mouth or they cannot. There is no "oh you mouth like this, no softly, no not that hard... Do not let the pup even put its mouth around your hand - you may think its affection but wait until the dog reaches adolscence you may be in for a suprise!

Actually to have a well rounded dog I teach all my clients that there are some things in life that are non negotiable. This also means that the dog just accepts them - it doesnt require the long term use of props and equipment like head halters. Dog does not bite Dog does not push owners around Dog accepts anything its owner needs it to do without putting up a fight The minute we put constraints on ourselves we put constraints on what our dogs can achieve. Sometimes a bit of stress is a good thing, dogs get over things and are more hardy then we give them credit for

wow separation anxiety in a 9 week old ... I think a tad overdiagnosed there? Pups will mouthe as long as you let them, and the more noise/erratic movements you add increase the dogs excitement. When the pup grabs you simply slip your thumb in under the tongue and give the bottom jaw a little squeeze until the pup gives up. If the pup is already attached grab the top lips and squeeze them under the top teeth, again til the pup gives up. Stops the behaviour quick smart - trick is to do it silently and calmly then walk away from the puppy for a little 10 minute settle down.

this would also be interesting, I think Velmas and Delta are the two main providers of PAT dogs?

Once again someone who has seen minimal correct use of the collars and follows the stereotypes As a trainer I tell people to do the hard yards. BUT at the same time it is just as cruel to plug away at an innefective or slow, drawn out process to try and modify behaviour. Number one the attitude of how you saw your dog was a contributing factor - biggest fattest asshole - shocking the dog wouldnt have worked. Yes you needed to be a leader, but even using tools (which an E collar is) you still need a range of things up your sleeve in order to train your dog effectively. So many people think that trainers that use E-collars, prongs, correction chains, dominant dog collars etc are horrible nasty people that do nothing but torture dogs. All the owners I help learn the basics of dog behaviour and that REWARDS and consistancy are just as important as a well timed correction, if not more. I have fixed a hyper drive lunger in 15 minutes, and when released after the exercise the dog actually volunteered to come up to me and sit for a pat, I rewarded the dog every time it looked at or acknowledged me and as far as it new the correction just happened when he lunged. The owners also understand they need to be consistent with ongoing maintenance and rewards to keep the owner-dog relationship strong. No ... us horrible people take the easy road some people need to research and see some real trainers at work before making judgements. So far all the cons are based on stereotypical nonsense

You come onto a public forum, make an uneducated statement about a valuable training tool because of an adolescent idiot on the internet. So we should just nod in agreement. A dog that has killed stock before and is running after a lamb ... how would you use a clicker to overide what is a self rewarding behaviour. They can have MASSIVE prey drive satisfaction or you could click - treat. Yeah ... no I think you need to realise there are some hard, difficult and driven dogs in the world. There are also extremely dangerous dogs out there who require correct methods for behaviour modification. Rusky some dogs are compulsive escape artists, or are simply driven dogs that have insane reactions to prey animals. Heck some people use E-collars for reliable recalls, the dog doesnt run around screaming it simply has an annoyance when not acknowledging the owner or moving further from them (a highly condensed version of the overall training) The sole purpose of an E-collar is NOT to simply zap the living daylights out of a dog. If you notice the collar he wore the correction was actually raised in increments as the dog kept barking. The dog is warned ... warned ... warned ... OK NO BARKING at the correct level. To put the collar straight on level 6 on a mild barker is not right. That collar is designed to work in a specific way, I own one. One level 2 and the rottie now has given up barking - the batteries dont even work in it anymore! But he wont nusience bark.

If you're dealing with poms make sure you have a section that people understand 1) a baby pom is not a toy and is not for toddlers to carry around roughly 2) dont let pups climb up on furniture or JUMP DOWN by themselves (sounds simple I know but it still happens ... ugh) 3) cut the cats claws back before introducing puppy, give the cat somewhere to hide set the ground rules now and stick to them. Dont start off with the dog in a basket, then in a crate, then on the bed, then no longer allowed on the bed etc. Poms are easy to carry so take the dog EVERYWHERE in a little bag to expose it to noises, people, situations etc I know it sounds a little Paris Hilton but its so much better for disease prevention Running around being aggressive is NOT cute. Chewing on you is NOT cute. Choose a good food and stick to it, do not let the puppy dictate what it eats. Since Poms are small then multiple meals per day will be the standard for longer then large breeds Start teaching your puppy that it is to be touched, groomed and teeth checked every day. Start with small sessions a day, praise the dog, make it fun to do and the dog will be well maintained all its life The dog can use a litter box - use a shallow cat litter tray and PAPER based litter which wont cause problems if eaten. Wipe some pups urine on a tissie and put that in the llitter tray, then take the pup to that when required. I cant stand dogs that go on paper on the FLOOR no need. The thing i tell all my clients is "Imagine you bought a 60kg Rottweiler ... would this behaviour still be exceptable?" and yes I own a bombproof rotty so I can say that But truely what people allow littlies to get away with any big dog would get a darn good correction for. I do love Poms, mum has one ... well a petshop one ... who's 11 and everyone thinks he's half his age!

actually its more the owner perpetuating the problem that causes long term damage more then the experience. Pups are more resilient then you think. Technically I should have a complete social retard of a Malinois because of her critical period upbringing - its what you allow in your dog that will show down the track - in a few of weeks away from the litter she was the complete opposite of her littermates who were trying to eat each other and her little sister did have a cracking go at her. I dont like dog parks because they are pits of disease more then anything else, and usually full of people with unsocialised, bored or uncontrolled dogs. hence puppy preschool was invented. Dogs need to learn canine body language and getting a bit rough with another pup will not scar it for life. You still have to be there to supervise and guide the pup to what is acceptable (as its mother would) and not allow your dog to be frightened.

yes my Mali does it quite well ... we call it her Nervous Paw hehehehe she was very undersocialised before 10 weeks and hence sometimes has trouble coping with some situations. She will sit there with a front paw lifted and tremble, sometimes ears back as well, then jump onto her hinds and grip me around the waist like "mum please we have to go NOW' pull out a prey toy and POOF gone :p eta : Midol there is also www.fordogtrainers.com - if you need a strong muzzle I already have two agitation muzles from him at home and his sleeves are very good, not for young or small dogs though due to size. Just made an order today in fact

this is a big assumption ... and unfortunately he may not have wanted to JUST go say hello. a wagging tail is not always a sign on friendlyness in a dog looks like you need to teach him how to get along with other dogs and have control. Are you maybe nervous when introducing - this wont help his behaviour. If he can get along with some he can get along with most. Sounds like you need a professional trainer to come and assess his behaviour and look for cues you may be missing in his body language. I'll give you an example - last night I went to help a lovely couple and their two little dogs. They assumed the younger of the two dogs was the one causing all the problems because his reactions were louder and lasted longer - in fact it was the older dog, the one that sat there and just looked like she was chilling out. I went to remove her off the couch and she jumped up onto the back of the couch and snarled, curling her top lip to show a couple of teeth and her tail was not between her legs either. She new all 5kg of her was capable of taking a chunk out of me ... in 2 years the owners had never seen her behave like that either. They thought the dogs were excited at visitors, happy to sit on the couch with them - in fact the dogs were trying to dominate and control everyone entering the house and had progressed to cars on the street. Take a step back and watch what he does ... you may be suprised what he is actually doing.

not saying you need military precision with her but some consistancy. You dont put 100% into dog club, she wont care one bit. As for generally trying to reinforce manners - some days she has to some days she doesnt. Dog doesnt take you seriously, or have a lot of respect for you as a handler. Not saying your dog hates you but you dont show her you need to be taken seriously. Maybe a few home sessions would be better to regain control, or try another club

eh when is a dog pushed to biting. Dogs dont bite or snap FULL STOP in my books. Even a tooth rake can be a lot for a small child. I've had kids try and prise my 63kgs DDBs mouth open and he wouldnt dare bite them. Puppy at 12 weeks should not be biting anymore. When the pup grabs you either squeeze the lips over the tips of her top teeth until she gives up or the trick is the push your thumb under her tounge with your fingers under the bottom jaw until she also gives up. hey presto. Pup learns biting is a no no. By the way the dog wont suddenly hate you or think you are prey when you squeal. Sorry but us humans are pretty bad at copying dog body language and hence when we try to do it the doggy way end up confusing the pup more. Above methods are pretty clear.

details ... desexed? where did you get the dog from? had the pup eaten? what do you mean by gets along with most dogs? How were they introduced?

good on you for standing up for what you think is right for Sophie. The vets should be accepting and willing to discuss not sulk like spoilt children at times. Hopefully you have her for a longer time then they think! ETA Guess who's on half meds!!!!!! YAY Little Diesel is now only on 50mg a day and we're weaning him off in a couple of weeks if things progress this well! Acupuncture, physical therapy, electric muscle stimulation and chiropractic have done him a world of good, we're going to start wading at the beach this week too. I am amazed how quickly this vet is progressing when everyone else just gave up on him I could have pretty much killed my own dog if I had listened to everyone else because it doesnt spew out of their MIMS ... Stick you your guns cavNrott D is currently sunning himself on a patch of dirt and was bouncing like a REAL rotty yesterday too ... its lovely! Looks like years instead of weeks

morgan I agree ... that was one moronoic vet ... then again why was a skinny 12 year old dog 1) vaccinated a week before and 2) boarded at all if its health was not that good? still agree that was a VERY VERY irresponsible thing to do by a so called professional. No they are not protected fully and sorry yes they are slightly immuno comprimised after a vaccine

morgan the majority of dogs that HAVE to be regularly vaccinated are also probably exposed to KC sources (and not necessarily the ones they have been vaccinated for) on a regular basis. Yes I too know a vet who didnt vaccinate his dogs since puppyhood and believed thats all they needed, they were around other dogs no worries at all. Then they both got kennel cough. hmmm. His dumb luck ran out, even he admitted it. As for what we consider exposed - there is an amount required that will allow a disease to take hold. A few half dead sheddings wont make a difference but I think locked in the same pen as a hacking dog (as the proximity of most kennels) expect a bad dose of it for the unvaccinated one. As for recently vaccinated people should be more careful. The immune system is stressed after a vaccination which is why you find more recently vaccinated dogs will develop it. Sounds quite ironic but a lot of owners actually think that a vaccine is a 'medication' that will just magically keep the diseases at bay. Unfortunately few vets take the time to educate owners about vaccines and that how they shouldnt be taking their dogs willy nilly in the next couple of weeks after a vaccination, especially into kennels. We reccomended at least 3 weeks before going into a kennel environment and no earlier.

sorry was hard to find an actual analysis of the product "ORIJEN ADULT is formulated with a biologically correct ingredient ratio (70/30/0) of 70% meat, 30% fruit and vegetables (and 0% grain) - all low temperature cooked at 90c/195F to retain their natural nutrients." finded it ... Actually the odd bit of cat food for dogs is not a problem - the calorie content is higher and hence you will end up with a fat dog is you constantly feed it but cat food HAS to have vitamin A added as well, wheres dogs being omnivorous can produce Vitamin A from their diet. I would worry, especially about a small breed, having a predominantly cat food based diet.

Malis get glued to you ... many a time Mina has looked at me like "mum you're an idiot thats not how we do things" AND we have completely changed her training from schutzhund to security. She was confused but I persisited and she was fine with it after a week. nah. I dont think theyre as bad as people think they are, theyre just SpEsHaL

Mals mature later then shepherds, and you cant go wrong with them. My girl is a bit sensitive to foods like Eukanuba but she had no worries swollowing half a chilli roast chicken once. Tough as nails, barely HD, skin, digestive problems. If I get a shep I will import from Europe. Sheps stability is questionable for me, well for civil drive anyway. Mals are lovely but dont get one that is too highly driven that can be a downfall if the nerve is weak. And you need to also be able to teach some supression or you end up with an out of control feral, Mals on 100% drive training is just asking for trouble. Mals can be forgiving as long as you are not impatient or heavy handed. von russellhof (www.malinois.net.au) I would get a dog from, even some of her show lines are capable fo schutzhund and you wouldnt be thrown into a full working temperament

Kim visits clinics in Geelong or you can go to her place in Belmont

the protein content in Orijen is above 70%. For a lot of dogs I would expect hyperactivity and stomach upsets that is a severe amount of concentrate to be fed to a dog. 25% is the following PACIFIC ORCHARD APPLES FRASER VALLEY CRANBERRIES SUN-CURED ALFALFA PRAIRIE POTATOES ALBERTA SUNFLOWER WHOLE CARROTS VINE-RIPENED TOMATOES PACIFIC SEA VEGETABLES Kelp, Irish Moss and Dulse are exceptional foods that are a valuable source for a variety of vitamins, minerals, trace elements, enzymes and phytochemicals. Sea vegetables contain iodine and absorb toxins from the bowel, increase and enhance metabolism and restore and nourish the entire body. We say dogs shouldnt eat cat food long term because it is bad for their health yet Orijen has a higher protein content then most cat foods?! Maybe do a blood test especially on older dogs to test kidney function before whacking them on a diet like this.

yes Kavik unfortunately a lot of GSDs are blessed with poor digestive systems as well. My rotty is severely allergic to most foods and can go nearly bald on Eagle Pack. I find Royal Canin Adult Large breed with some flax seed oil every day and the off phenergen tablet settles him and he stops shedding. By bald - he has little hair on his abdomen, thin chest, had a bald rump from chewing and the backs of his legs. A couple of meals of eagle pack and he's back to scratching like a maniac.

heartworm testing should only be about $20-$30 dollars. Vets should have a Simplify test which needs a drop of blood adn takes 5 minutes. Yes it is in Melbourne ... the unfortunate thing is people travel and bring back infected dogs so assume it will be around.

christ almighty why not just vaccinate. So much fiddling are we now starting a 'titre testing' fashion ... yes I think I would be a bit miffed if my OH decided he wanted to blow $230 a dog on titre testing when 3 dogs can get vaccinated with C5 for the same price. If the titres are low (meaning your dog has not been exposed to the disease lately) it will need to be revaccinated. Now this does not mean that the dog does not have immune memory it just doesnt have antibodies floating around, so technically you may still be what many people deem 'over vaccinating'. Yes we rarely see a disease and now we shouldn't bother testing or vaccinating for it ... OK how do you think it GOT that status? Majority of at risk dog for Canine Hep are under 2 years of age... that means you could be walking a carrier dog on the end of your lead that sheds virus at the dog park, dog club, show etc. Yours may be OK but young dogs are not. I think some people have more money then sense these days I really do.