Nekhbet

Sometimes leadership and confidence from the owner can be enough to reward the dog. There is no need to stuff toys and food down a dogs throat for simply existing and behaving according to what is acceptable and what is not. You are not training tricks you are socialising. Also introducing toys to an already anxious dog and increasing drive + anxiety means you are moving away from what you are trying to train - a calm, relaxed dog. You cant teach that hyping it up with a toy. Very few of my clients dogs get food/toy rewards. Their owners leadership and praise is enough as a basis. When she is relaxed, stroke her gently and you confirm she is doing well. That works as well, if not better, then auxiliary treats.

Willow unless the dog is rolling over, scuttling with its tail tucked in terror this little pom is not fearful. And the point of it is showing the dog this is NOT how to deal with a situation. scared dogs will not naturally progress to lunging and biting - this is a confident dog that has its stupid behavior reinforced by its owner. More hands off approaches do NOT guide dogs but can give them power. The dog has no problems attacking people why not give it a correction for its dangerous behaviour?

Get ready for poos full of undigested grains. Half of the product is wasted because it is undigestable. Oh and if you want to see a Dogue de Bordeaux projectile vomit feed him VAN I think you are better off feeding a good dry food or if you are desperate for raw get mince (dont forget a decent vitamin powder for the calcium) and boil up Aldi bags of vegetables and a little rice. More cost effective then VAN. Papi Searcher if your pap is admittedly spoilt stop changing the food. Find one and stick to it, if he's getting thin then nutragel him. The further you persist with changing his food the worst he will be.

unfortunately some people need a wake up call. But then again I dont mince words the dog is not HAPPY. It is living a life of stress having to defend its family and constantly put them in line. Tell her that poms little hearts can't take the stress of being so aggressive all the time Firstly the dog needs to be taught to behave. If it growls, I would grab it by the scruff, give it a big GRRRRR NO and when its finished its little tantrum put it outside. Not pick up the dog, its reinforcing bad behavior and anxiety not allowing the dog on furniture posessing everything the dog needs - food comes out at set times and if it doesnt eat, tough get it a crate and it has set times it goes in there too it only greets visitors to the house on a leash. It is brought into the room, if it starts cranking see 1st point and goes outside again to be ignored barking ferociously or too much gets same as 1st point until all is required is a loud NO dog never gets anything it pushes for - paws for attention, sits and begs without being asked. If it doesnt comply with a command it definately knows, told once within 2 seconds owner walks off and ignores it. thats a start. You cannot socialise a dog without gaining control over its mind first otherwise it will simply continue what has already happened. She still needs a trainer to help her with confidently handling and providing consequences to actions - mistiming and inconsistancy is an aggressive dogs best friend ETA if it helps you can pass on my email address and I can talk to her for you

valium suppresses the anxiety emotions it doesnt 'fix' them, and should be used with intensive training once at effective levels. If you have her on valium then whip her off it quickly you probably would have noticed some weird behaviour for a little while. Remember the basics of your dogs head - what's in it for me - dogs follow behavioural patterns and routines, even very subtle ones (x means Y will happen) - dogs will follow the consistant and persistant leader. If no one is a constant leader they will make up their own minds - dog will naturally continue their current behavior if it gets them the result they want - sometimes expect a tantrum (extinction burst) if you try and push the dog into a new path - as I said, if you fulfil the dogs expectations the behavior will continue If your guests cannot listen to your request move her out of the room completely and put her outside. If you cant control it dont push it. YOu have hit the nail on the head, socialisation is about quality, not just quantity. So far her socialisation has been uncontrolled and allowed her to form 'bad habits' in our eyes. She is also a naturally aloof breed so dont expect her to jump into laps, just to accept people in her space without stress and rediculous pacing behavior. I think I need to take a road trip up and visit you for a while

until that dog has some control over it I would not be introducing it. The dog is king of its little cosmos and the owners reinforce it time and time again it seems. I do agree that a 2.1kg pom is a little small to be allowed to play with larger dogs in a dog park etc I think the risks outweigh the benefits for it. This dog needs an all round overhaul ... if you can convince the owners to change their ways - the dog is the easy bit! I would tell them, imagine that pomeranian weighed 60kg and behaved the same way - they would have called the ranger long ago and been terrified of it. That is a start! There are so many things I think calling a trainer in to help and develop a plan of attack is the best thing. The dog needs step by step behavior modification at a pace the owners can comply with and does not risk the children being bitten.

I read 'conservative' treatment is to rest for 3 months with the limbs splinted for 2. I think that would be your only option to try instead of surgery as if the ligament is completely torn apart there is no way to fix it without surgery. What level of surgery would be required? Complete fusion or just the bottom two. I think these injuries are more common in competitive/agility dogs because of the pressure they put on their joints.

does chelsea have prey drive? she sounds like my old sheppy boy and he was hideously undersocialised, bonded more to dogs and very mentally immature so more manly men (deep voices, solid stature) became an issue. Softer spoken men didnt fuss him as much and he got over them faster. My dad has a very deep voice and quite solid, Krueger took months to get over his fear of him. Once Kruegs trusted me I walked him over and got him to sit with my dad and after another couple of months he accepted him. I didnt allow Krueger to show his old "I have to run away' behavior and he got over it. As for running from you ignore her completely. If you make gestures towards her she perceives this again as you causing her stress, dont even look at her or acknowledge her existance. I would be getting iltby to put her on a lead and hand her to people so she has no opportunity to make up her own mind about situations. She finds her own reasons to be stressed about people so offlead work will not lead to very much, it will be a bigger struggle then you have now. Also I would be giving the other dogs a lot of attention and ignoring her. If she follows the other dogs leads, and she starts missing out on fun things she will become frustrated - frustration leads to bucking up the courage to get in there and play. If she does dont make a fuss just continue like she is not there. Her behavior will reward herself. I'm going off what you have told me but she sounds similar to Krueger, undersocialised and whatever socialising she did get wasnt good quality. ETA I'm from a rather no nonsense school of dog training I do use flooding and stress on dogs BUT I do not advocate it to owners who may cause detriment to the dogs. Krueger was flooded but I had the confidence to handle a dog of his size and I understood his temperament was right for that training. It did him a world of good and turned him around quickly - once again not a method I would condone without a professional trainer YOU trust.

poodlefan *cough* I'm not Cosmolo :p

aggression is not a problem to solve over the internet, particularly as body language can be misinterpreted by the owner. I would call a person experienced in solving these types of problems in your are, if you post your are we can PM you with recommedations

aha sorry from your post I didnt realise she was in her crate most of the time. Midol I dont mean force as in drag a kicking and screaming dog towards men, but a leash is a link between the owner and dog. A dog allowed to run around and eye off strangers cannot be shown leadership by the owner. She can be walked past visitors or be put on a leash and made to sit quietly with her owner in the same room. The visitors can ignore her completely. She doesnt trust it wont happen so what is perpetuating her fear? After 12+ months a dog should be able to relax so have a good look at what happens and if she makes attempts what do you do. If you fulfill a dogs expectations the behavior will continue. It can be as simple as _> I expect visitors cause me stress -> ooooh I dont know how to behave, should i get a pat or not -> I feel stressed -> visitors have caused me to stress!!! OMG I will avoid them dogs brains If you put her on a leash and simply ignore her stress responses. Lead her - visitor is here and you sit here and behave. Only comfort her when she starts to relax. She will pull out her typical responses, avoiding looking at them, trying to move away but do not let her. Be a reasonable distance from them as well. She should gradually run out of 'make them go away' tricks and settle. Then when the visitor leaves dont let them talk or look at her, walk her out of the room. I dont see why K9 force couldnt be in on something like this as well as he would know the right canine body language to use to help her feel at ease in a situation as above. Unless she has massive issues then get a veterinary behaviorist and meds.

I have a bitch that marks if you want a curve ball It may be a learned behaviour or he could just be a VERY dominant little rascall who needs some discipline. Looks like he feels the need to prove himself he could have lived next door to some entire dogs and they were constantly in competition with each other, or the lab was an entire male and he always wanted to get the better of him too. I have seen desexed terriers come into the clinic and start marking everything the little buggers, then you see them do the little shuffle of " OI THIS IS MY LAWN" scuff scuff scuff They are usually pushy, untrained little dogs that seem to be like this too Desexing does not completely abolish these behaviors it decreases your chance and makes the dog more pliable to your training.

dont blame the dog blame the owner! Sounds like the little ratbags are the ones in charge and no one has really put the effort in to stop them. Terriers are willful little creatures but that is no excuse. As for slow on the uptake, they probably learned that if they push a little harder they can get their own way and have for 2 1/2 years. I would look into citronella collars, yes they can be used on Jackies. If that fails you can get a static bark collar to make them be quiet. Remember too Jackies need stimulation and the barking can be a combination of lack of discipline, territoriality and boredom. If the collars are applied they do need to have an outlet for their energy, rotated toys, a sand pit, hidden food, even build some tunnels around the backyard for them to 'hunt' in while you guys are out. Bark collars fix the symptoms not the problem. If they are very high energy and you cannot satisfy their needs (walk wise) get a second hand treatmill and put them on it every day especially before bed time. Tired dogs are quiet dogs! Get crates and lock them in there at night. If they chose to go during the night then they can lie in it, tough. They will soon learn to hang on, no reason a dog of that age cannot if they have a final loo break before inside at night. As for the food bowl, give them their meals, give them time to eat it and remove the bowl straight away. Each dog has its own bowl and thats the end of it. If one tries to get the others food they both lose their meals and wait for dinner time. A trick is when one stuffs up they BOTH get in trouble. they need to learn basic manners and I think getting a professional trainer in a couple of times is the best thing for them. Two males will take over and bond to each other more then the owners, especially if the owner does not provide good leadership.

muzzles build frustration and can pack a punch. You could be missing signs from the muzzled dog as could the puppy and BANG dog attacks pup. I would not bet letting Kaos behave like a hyper monkey around the puppy as playtimes will be rough. I would keep Kaos on a leash and lead her up to the puppy, let her sniff then walk her away. If she cannot behave quietly she does not walk up to puppy.

If you have had her over a year then this behavior has gone on too long. My rescue shepherd had massive fear issues ( I mean rolled over and peed himself if you lifted a hand) but after a few weeks was definately not the same dog. You let her decide what to do. She is showing confusion and lack of confidence and you let her run with it. It doesnt matter what happened to the dog before you got it, you have it now and you need to shape its behavior. In essence by letting the dog wander around without any inclination of weather the situation is going to swing in a good or bad direction is freaking her out! Thats why she eyes of strangers - who are you, what are your intentions, why are my females nervous, what is going on - and you watch her. Your dad should be taking the dog for a walk and showing leadership. You should have her on a leash when a stranger arrives, have them do what shmoo did "hellooooo puppy" in a quiet but high pitched voice and encourage her to be happy. Dont let her pull back be strict with her because her habitual anxiety needs to be released before she can relax. I wouldnt bother with food until the dog has learned to calm down around people because the mind is elsewhere. Then do not let her wander around them put her crate in another room and give her a bone or treat and put her in there. Dogs have problems because we allow them to perpetuate. Unless the dog is completely manic, which it is obviously not, problems come down to lack of leadership and confidence. I would call in a trainer to help you with the dog, K9 force is pretty much the only person I know up there to help you. ETA the reason I dont like food in an anxious situation is because for some dogs food is another stress causing factor. The dog should be focussing on accepting the object/person not trying to duck in and quickly snatch the food. So instead of some dogs going - ooh that thing i'm unsure about has some yummy food - you get more of a - omg i'm hungry, will i get the food or will it get me instead - double stress.

My old boss is a PennHip vet and most of the time packed off the dog to have preventative surgery I do think that PennHip will go a long way in helping people decide breeding stock and help the dog before symptoms occur. Because of 3 different x-rays instead of the traditional extended view, in which some vets missed subtle signs, I would hold more faith in a diagnosis. Saying that both of my dogs x-rays where like being whacked in the face with a baseball bat hehe. As for traditional scoring, I think the score that some breeders have allowed for breeding stock has gone some way in the existance of HD in some breeds as well, as I know some breed averages are accepted as higher then others. Wouldnt we all aim for a 0:0?

depends how your dogs handle the necks and if they gain/lose weight. If you find they are constipated or starting to loose interest then cut down to once a week. Mine get a chicken carcass every day with their Royal Canin or some other meat scrap I get from the butcher. Try once every 3 days and see how they go

royal canin has a high palatability. what would happen, of he starts being fussy on that too, to mix some minced heart in with the dry and feed a tinyer meal. He will be hungry and may even beg for more

yes it can be the zoomies but I wouldnt feed a dog goodos if you paid me get something without so much rubbish in it

What is wrong with dry food?? All my dogs (and cat) eat Royal Canin, and no one has a problem or underweight. I would be putting the dog on a premium dry like Royal Canin medium breed adult, Eagle Pack, or Nutrience. Add chicken carcasses, lamb flaps, lamb necks, ox tail to the diet say when you go to work every day for the dog to chew on. I would be feeding dry twice a day.

Again people look at the end of the rope instead of the beginning we should be looking at decreasing the incidence of HD in our breeds. And what happens to dogs like mine who have very little in the way of an acetabulum? Maybe in mild HD with reasonably formed femoral head and acetabulum and mild DJD the money is worth taking a pot shot on. I would like to know what treatments they also tried on the GSD and the degree of HD/DJD the dog had before and after the treatment. I lost a battle with one dog to HD/ED this year and now fighting the battle with an 11 month old Rottweiler who our new vet describes as a 'bag of bones' his structure is so poor. I would rather breeders had taken more care then me keep forking out hand over fist (nothing against vets)

Nutrigel is an appetite stimulant and almost a complete food in a paste form. Its balanced vitamins, minerals and high calorie to keep the littlies alive. I hand fed a clients dying lorikeet once for 3 days on this stuff and he bounced back like a pinball, my own blue tongue was on it for over 6 months with anorexia. Sometimes its the only thing that keeps animals healthy and alive. vet clinics and pet supplies sell it

is she only on 4-6 chicken carcasses a day? Get some dry puppy food for her and give that on top, just a little a day

you can mix it with warm water and it smells pretty yummy! Conversely just wipe it on his lips and he'll lick it off

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