Nekhbet

if you are going to swap get some of the old food and mix it in with the new, I would be giving them at least a week for the change over to let their systems adjust to the new food. If they have dry skin then the food is not adequate.

Find a new vet. Unless there is a secondary skin infection there is no need to antibiotics. Demodex is a skin mite that affects dogs with weak immune systems, all dogs carry the mite and hence it cannot be spread. The dog needs a low allergen diet but high in omega oils and immune boosting products so stay away from food high in grains and red meats. WHWT are prone to bad skin but its usually managed with low allergen, high quality diets and the owner being vigilant.

sounds like a staffy Whether or not the dog has been properly socialised should be a bigger worry. Sounds like this new dog is fairly OK since you have not had a fight but the staffy needs some time to learn what is acceptable and what isnt. Also the new dog needs time to settle in properly and learn rules. I would be separating them during the day (maybe keep one in the laundry and one outside) then introduce them supervised and really be set on the ground rules. A good thing to do first is to sit down with the other people in the house and decide WHAT you want from your dogs then make a plan of action with a trainer who will come round and explain 1) what your dogs are doing, body language, behavior 2) what you need to do to change it 3) be realistic with your time frames and set little goals sounds complicated but it can be fairly simple. The biggest point is never let a dog decide for itself the major decisions in a household (how do I treat other dogs, where do I sleep, what position am I in the pack) that is for you to do for them and maintain the same idea.

I have never worked in a clinic where dogs were tethered EVER. Every animal was in a crate for the duration of their stay which was a non negotiable. Tethering in a vet clinic to me just screams negligence and an accident waiting to happen - ever seen a tethered dog lunge out because its stressed? If we had a particularly giant breed we gave them a spare consulting room to wake up in. GR8P2 - wow. Your dog should accept being in a clinic cage and frankly its nicer then being tethered. Yeah i would not leave a dog tethered for 8 hrs he had a chance to lie down, stretch etc. Maybe you should do some crate training as part of his socialisation if it stresses him so much. All of my dogs know to hop straight into cages at vet clinics and all of them curl right up and fall asleep. Sorry if your dog barked for most of the day because you hadnt trained him I'd be a bit miffed too. Plus its not nice on the dog.

first problem was owner watched the behavior occur and let the dog continue. Being in a new environment the dog is going to want to set a new routine, find his place in the pack. New dog is now #1 Molly is obviously not good at coping with challenges, she's a soft dog. The owner sounds very soft and it sounds like punishment was being ignored for Molly. ALso I think Logan being 'unrewarded' may not be completely true, he's pushing for a reason. Logan also has to learn what his new owner uses for 'no you are doing wrong' and 'yep you're doing great'! It may not be clear to the dog what the owners wishes are and hence he just keep pushing until he gets what he wants. Unfortunately what it seems is 1) owner is not acting like a leader and putting a puppy in its place - puppies dont challenge existing pack structure or push older dogs around 2) Molly is left to control the situation and owner turns their back on her and leaves her to fed for herself. She obviously is not a fighter and cannot cope with a leadership position in a pack 3) the owner does not want to see Molly get aggressive yet they have to understand - if the do not correct Logans behavior Molly feels its her responsibility to. They sound like the type of owners who need a chilled out, submissive young dog who will cope with their style of dog ownership and Mollys personality. Logan could work with Molly, if it was me I would be keeping Logan in a crate while I was at work and for the first couple of weeks only let them interact when Logan was on lead with a corrective collar and suppress some of that crazyness. He's just a full on puppy that needs to be told to cut the BS by his new owner.

yes

depends how their packed and marked and how energetic customs is feeling that day. I always have at least one leather item in my packages so invariably sniffer dogs will pick it out.

wow. there's a new one. Depends when the male is barking - is he guarding the female from the owners? Of just being territorial (fence barking etc) constant barking sounds like a combination of boredom, breed trait and lack of control/training by the owners. Time to get a new trainer in

If he was getting an x-ray then he would have needed a sedation anyway - poor choice of words on their behalf I think. You dont drug an animal because its making noise.

Erny looks like I'm the only one who has their 'dog training equipment' boxes shredded and retaped like a bunch of sugared up 5 year olds with a tape gun got to it. And wait an extra couple of weeks. That will teach me to ship via Air Israil depends what you write on the box they dont always check whats inside.

The sound being high pitched would be stimulating to the dog, and the great thing is like a clicker its the same noise every time. With verbal commands you have subtle differences the dogs would pick up and they can respond to you not feeling 100% or being highly motivational.

I do west melbourne suburbs as well as Geelong and Ballarat if that is any help

I would use a bitterant spray, that will let the dog learn not to bother. The only reason I would not use vicks is the poor little dog will have a stinking lead right next to its face and cannot get away from it - vicks is an irritant to eyes and mucous membranes as well. Spray and ignore it, the pup will get over it in no time when it cops a mouth full of yucky taste.

:rolleyes: OMG how terrible! Ohhh what a horrible thing to find out So sorry to the family

Sentinal spectrum will cover everything and is easy to use. Cheaper brands are cheap for a reason so no, I would not reccomend putting your faith in something like Exelpet (which says you should worm your dog every 6 weeks if you dont want it to have hydatid tapeworm or whipworms) and they use cheap ingredients in their products (have a read of the flea spot on for dogs) If you like Advocate then buy a Droncit tablet. If you are not around livestock then worm the dog with a Droncit tablet every 3-6 months. Praziquantel (the drug that kills tapeworms) cannot be administered in a liquid form, simply oral. Drontal tablets also guarentee ALL intestinal worms are done for 3 months (including tapeworms) whereas the cheaper brands cannot (if you have a close look at packaging and websites you'll see the difference)

That's great to hear cavNrott ... you do what you believe is best!! I'm so glad your vet is supportive and is giving her a prolonged chance. Thats why I stay out of specialist centres Diesel seems to be on a downhill slide again. He has grown muscle on his hindquarters but he has a permanent straight legged walk. Even his front legs are stiffening. Between supplements and therapies I think we've exhausted his options - at least the little bugger doesnt cry his pain is still low but its creeping back. The canine garbage disposal is not really interested in his foor either :rolleyes: the gusto has gone (he even left fresh chicken carcass yesterday) he just eats because I tell him At least he manages a rotty wiggle for me every morning then goes for his little walk around the yard, then suns himself under the Camelia tree. Bloody hell ...

There is the hills k/d which is about 12-14% protein and 16% fat frankly if it is a matter of a dog getting renal failure I would be buying the commercial diet. If you are having problems the company offers advice to your vet for free. I wouldnt be making home made diets for renal dogs who are recently in trouble. (I'm not a Hills pusher, in face I work for another company but I do believe in the best for a dog)

she's in her safety zone at home and is rewarded for it. Not uncommon. If she was fear aggressive and hideously undersocialised I would expect reactions in the park as well as at home. I think she's just spoilt rotten.

that one doesnt count .. he acts like he was raised with a litter of Malinois

Sheesh can't keep anyone happy around here there. Even has good moozic for it too

OK not for everyone but I consider it an art amongst dog trainers to have a high performance and controlled bitework animal, be it PP, Civil, IPO, Ring etc I found some 'alternative breed' videos and lets see what people think ... I'm giving a couple of my own opinions feel free to discuss rather dissapointed - this is not a breed for bitework by a long shot! A lot of front bites and dropping the target, one dog even wont bite when taunted they should be guarding livestock not pushed into this Nice to see a boxer doing what it was bred to do ... who wants to train a boxer in Schutzhund !! Another Boxer! Cos my friend turned me into a sucker for Boxers Pretty good, since I dont know this dogs level of training I would say its not doing too badly for the breed especially in the bite OK Despite the fact that any decoy wearing a pair of thongs is an idiot ... the dog has good prospect but needs a more energetic and confident owner. Notice the dog losing interest after he nearly whacks him in the mouth with the plastic bottle after he takes a weak front bite on the tug. Bull breeds are not always the most energetic but he could go a long way in improving his behavior before continuing training this dog Chihuahua ... yes really WHEN IS THE CHIHUAHUA CLUB IMPLEMENTING SHUTZHUND AS A STANDARD!!!!

actually I did that once ... I didnt realise the mal had slipped out of her collar as a pup until I heard the clip CLANK on the ground I never let mine in front of me, they are allowed to walk beside me or drop behind but not go out in front. Always on a loose lead as well. I cannot see a dogs facial expressions and body language when they walk out in front of me either and you allow them to make first contact - ie you be in charge.

Tiggy if you are feeding raw prey model diet make sure your dogs get some sort of fibre in their diet to prevent gut problems down the track

every dog will clean itself ... down there. So if not one bacteria then another. If you store the meat properly and dont feed your dog spoiled food (which could make them sick anyway) then I dont see what there is to worry about.

Actually Miss B Frontline is MADE for dogs with fleabite allergy and prevents fleas biting the dog. You can use initial dose - 2 weeks - every 4 weeks Advantage and advocate are the ones that allow fleas to occasionally bite and can wear off faster. I would do frontline + heartguard + generic wormers to be the cheapest option. ETA Advocate does not cover all intestinal worms either, you are better off with an allwormer - Vets have Milbemax as well