Nekhbet

here is a starting point http://www.oronsaycavaliers.com/pages/K9%20Karts.htm http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Double-deck-metal-t...2QQcmdZViewItem http://www.dlc.com.au/products/cages/PolyCageCatalog.htm - these are the plastic ones 3 different designs for you

I would never have cubbies off the ground unless you intend to make the chain very short and the cubbies quite large which makes grabbing dogs difficult. A dog slips and can hang itself and injure its neck. Also many dogs would probably be not comfortable up on a shelf - at least a crate is enclosed. Pah a few dont come back because the dog is crated. Its crated at the vets, its crated in a car and it can be crated in the groomers tough. So many groomers use crates/modules and have no lack of business. Its for the dogs and staff safety THAT would be my priority before a couple of owners who think their schnookums (who mind you is probably a miniature Cujo) will be forever emotionally traumatised from spending a couple of hours in a crate.

carcasses

two of my dogs can walk on a flat collar no worries. My belgian is pretty much stuck on a correction aid because she needs her drive kept in check and her training has taught her to pull against large flat collars. Average pet dogs without specific long term behavioral quirks should be aiming for a flat.

oooh oooh I found this. Much easier then tethering especially with snappy dogs and still hygenic

like this but a bit bigger and without the top yeah Oh by the way ... I turned up a rediculous amount of porn looking up dog + bench, dog show + bench Bloody google

never use cotton buds in a dogs ear!!!! you put it in a squeeze bottle (like a sauce bottle) and squirt some down the ear canal, massage well and stand back - the dog will shake hard!

Kirsten dont think I have no working experience - I have 2 security dogs, one being a Belgian - they dont call them Maligators for nothing when they are babies. You give a command and do not immediately follow through - you are inconsistent so your dogs behavior is inconsistent. You give him chance after chance to disobey then you smack him - that is not helping your dog or teaching him long term. If you are having to resort to hitting your puppy then call in a trainer or his breeder to help you NOW not wait till he goes to training. If he bites you grab his scruff and growl NO. If he has your hand put your thumb under his tongue and apply some pressure till he gets the idea that mouthing is bad As for a mouthy breed like I said I own and have trained a lot pushier, mouthier and stubborn then a lab and still not had to resort to smacking. I have posted in the other 2/3 'puppy biting' threads go have a look

putting scratch marks in my back door OMG his hindquarters are enough to make any rotty breeder cower in shock ... poor crooked Diesel. His hock bends in still but its better then before, that leg also wobbles in the socket .... well actually he has NO sockets pretty much so the muscle is holding him together. He's skinny as a rake but he can bounce about and has a good life as far as I'm concerned. AND NO MEDICATION FOR 2 MONTHS NOW!!!!!! I'm so ecstatic with my vet she is a literal life saver We call him the Rotty that needs a major wheel alignment we took him to the local market Sunday and he was getting cuddles and attention from everyone. He really does a lot to show people why BYBers are NOT a place to get a dog from. But the kids adore him and one guy even stooped down with the little baby he had so she could pat him, she would have been all of about 7 months of age and she goo goo'd over D something shocking. See every kid needs a Rottweiler He's going for his Therapy Dog assessment early October fingers crossed!

Rascal what happens if you paint chilli paste or bitterent on her nails? Trim them right back. Or put little booties on you elastoplast on?

kristin e102 you should not allow your pup to get to 'repeating the behavior' then smacking him. Thats bad management on your behalf. If he jump jump jump jump jump then SMACK what have you taught him? You can have a few jumps then I'll hit you. You can see when a puppy is going to launch. Either move out of the way or when he jumps up grab him by the scruff and loudly "GRRRR NO", then walk away. Dogs do not learn or associate how we do - you have not taught your puppy NO means stop the behavior so you should smack yourself instead of the dog. Also never give a dog a known command more then once before following up the action - you teach the dog the command is to be ignored until you give it enough times or he listens when he wants. Another trick with pups that run at you is have some food and throw a rather large treat at their face when they run at you, attach a command 'FIND IT COME ON!!!!". Most will stop in their tracks and snuffle around for it then forget their initial run up. Then teach the pup if it wants physical attention it should sit. Great way for food driven breeds to learn not to bowl you over. ETA Smacking does one of two things - teaches hand shyness and dogs tend to just run off if they think they're getting a smack for no reason (well no reason the dog sees) or they learn to fight violence with violence. Yes the smacked dog who one day has enough balls to turn around and give YOU a physical correction because you taught it punish with pain. Don't laugh it does happen. I've found verbal (when taught from an early age) is enough with my lot. You dont smack Belgians they crumble and the mastiff breeds tend to go 'you know what ... I'm 60kg of entire male - who the %&*( do you think you are hitting me'. So no. I dont like smacking PUPPIES

If you train with a flat collar and put in enough foundation work there is little need to move onto other equipment - ultimately haltis, head collars, check chains, prongs etc are training tools not permanent fixtures unless you have a very specific dog.

licking at the anus/anal glands bad stomach - try some yogurt or inner health plus tabs

probably vaginitis

your cat could have heart failure from long term lack of taurine in the diet as well as weight problems. Go get a good vet check ASAP and get the cat on a properly balanced diet.

I love Royal Canin and I have seen a lot of happy dogs on it. All my dogs and cat eat it too I think its an excellent food and you can find the right food in the range for your dog. I love the giant adult kibble its the quarter of the size of my palm great for dry food gulpers! For the mini pins just get the Mini Adult (or there is also a Beauty, Sensitive, Dental, Indoor and light) for the Koolies you can get the Medium Adult. I wouldnt go getting the power formulas unless they are farm dog they get VERY hyped on those foods, even the Energy from Eagle Pack does that too. www.royalcanin.com.au

From another thread: yup two methods I use - grab the pups muzzle and gently curl the lips in and press into the teeth. Smarts for a little and the dog will whinge and carry on. Release when puppy gets the point and ignore - if the pup launches at you again after this (standing) turn to it, look into its face and growl loudly (I mean VERY loundly) GGRRRR NO and stamp your foot (not on said puppy) - if puppy grabs your pants/arm etc calmly reach down, place your thumb under its tongue and apply slight pressure until the puppy starts whining and again gets idea if you are on the floor and the pup attacks your face (oooh the little rat!) grab it by a big handful of scruff and simply pin it to the floor until it gives up its temper tantrum. And be prepared for a temper tantrum if its already in a silly mood. I dont use food etc because biting is a life lesson, not a trick for me. Dogs should not have to be provided with a reward or incentive for the simple fact they dont take a chunk out of you. As Cosmolo said a lot of people can redirect to a toy and the dog thinks 'oh I bite I get a toy'. These methods also teach your dog long term as you really give the dog a black and white understanding - NEVER BITE. And I quote myself you need to teach your dog calm behavior in the house. You already have him on a leash great I think you might be worrying a little too much. Cut the cats claws so they dont tear his eyeball (and yes catsd are good at this) and let them have a few swipes at him. If he goes in for the attack give him a little tug on the leash and say 'GRRRR NO' them move him away from the cats until he's settled. If you havnt bought a crate already invest in one they are great tools for house training puppies.

Take a look at my suggestions in the 'puppy biting thread' started by 3aussies here in the puppy forum. Your puppy does not take you seriously hence launching back to attack at you.

yup two methods I use - grab the pups muzzle and gently curl the lips in and press into the teeth. Smarts for a little and the dog will whinge and carry on. Release when puppy gets the point and ignore - if the pup launches at you again after this (standing) turn to it, look into its face and growl loudly (I mean VERY loundly) GGRRRR NO and stamp your foot (not on said puppy) - if puppy grabs your pants/arm etc calmly reach down, place your thumb under its tongue and apply slight pressure until the puppy starts whining and again gets idea if you are on the floor and the pup attacks your face (oooh the little rat!) grab it by a big handful of scruff and simply pin it to the floor until it gives up its temper tantrum. And be prepared for a temper tantrum if its already in a silly mood. I dont use food etc because biting is a life lesson, not a trick for me. Dogs should not have to be provided with a reward or incentive for the simple fact they dont take a chunk out of you. As Cosmolo said a lot of people can redirect to a toy and the dog thinks 'oh I bite I get a toy'. These methods also teach your dog long term as you really give the dog a black and white understanding - NEVER BITE.

its the jolting pressure that the weight of the large breed puppy puts on the growing joints. It can slowly damage growth plates (the growing ends of the long bones) Large-giant breeds should not also be jumping off furniture, doing agility, jumps, in/out of cars etc until they are 7-12 months old. My DDB was not allowed stairs until he was 12 months at least and even then I had him on lead.

yes I came to appreciate the noise she made ... it meant her gob was not full of part of my car interior

nah poodlefan I tried that ... Try having a Mal going off her dial at passing motorists. I think we both looked mad at that point she's such an angel now

As long as you are consistant with your handling you can retrain the dog without a worry. He may be confused for a while but be patient - it will happen.

remember food based toys only work if the dog is hungry and frustrated enough to put energy into it - It should be in bold on the packet "works best when dogs meal is placed inside and not in dogs bowl"! Try lamb flaps and nice fatty chicken off cuts/carcasses to help with the weight. Won't hype up the pup too much either, or some satin balls in the afternoon/evening can help with the bulking out. Energy food in the AM, fatty food in the PM to put weight on. Or if you want to drop weight energy food in the AM and low cal filler in the evening. If he's food orientated you can teach him to search - hide the food under a box and encourage him to sniff it out and tip the box over. Its a dynamic game, you can add more boxes or baskets etc and make it harder for him to find it. Stinky things like kabana, ham etc are great for this game and not being too repetitive it holds his interest for longer. You can even put part of his meal into this game if you become worried about calories.

True poodlefan there is show weights which I dont always agree with. If you want to up his weight give him more chicken carcasses instead of puppy food. Calories that turn into stored product and calories that hype the dog are two different things. I have kept all my dogs lean and it has immensly helped them perform. Feed him ONLY from treat balls like the Triple Crown toys, teach him targeting, high 5, paw, shake, drop, roll etc and the thing is to perfect them. I would leave a radio on for him as well that seems to help my dogs during the day, a station that is fairly wide in their selection is good. Aussie Dog also have a selection of bungee and tug style toys that may be good for him too, but not until he has finished teething. All agility is considered high impact and not something for a large breed like a Malamute. If you want him to do Agility later on he needs to be stripped down to a nice lean (probably too lean for show) size and easily felt ribs they work so much better. If there is anywhere he can swim that can take out some energy without stressing his joints too much.