Nekhbet

And here's where my experiment worked. All I said is they do not have a family friendly temperament so immediately the mind spins to dangerous, lock them up ala prison style. The government has brain washed you well. Not family friendly does not equate to dangerous. Not all dogs and breeds are bouncing, slobber all over you for cuddles dogs. That is a fact. Many were bred to be that way. That does not mean they do not deserve a normal life like any other dog if they are controlled. It's true. I lock my dogs in the house now because little brat shits insist on scaling my high fences to get into my backyard. If something did happen it would be my fault, not the shit that scaled an almost 7 foot fence to get in which is set waaaaaaaaay back from the street. That or retribution will dictate they are poisoned or worst. I can't leave my little dogs outside because they will be stolen. There's no responsibility for action any more, in fact attitudes are flout the law and if there is recourse it's everyone elses fault, not the offenders. People need to wake up. If you want a dog, get one with a decent temperament. If dogs with shite temperaments were rejected more often, just like anything, money will talk. I also see too massive a push on rescue dogs to be taken despite still having problems which make them a burden, not a pet. Rescues are popping up like mushrooms, not enough of them actually retrain the dogs properly or have them decently assessed before rehoming. Worst still, rehome breeds they know nothing about. We are losing and have lost a LOT of dog skills and we are accepting it, in fact we're perpetuating it.

keep him on a leash with you and when he's not on a leash, confined like a large crate or a small run. Hand feed him, just take him with you and go about your daily routine. If he has the opportunity to keep running off and hiding he will think it's the right way to deal with his fears. If he tries to run, let him pull, ignore him and he will see it's not successful. When he's ready to think and stop panicking, a treat/toy/attention is there for him, whatever he prefers best.

OK here's a question then... What if I don't want an overly social dog or to produce them? What if I'm perfectly happy with my very controllable dog but that does not have a family friendly temperament?

If you want a worker buy from working proven parents, if you can see the parents for their sociability and workability even better. A good worker is not always a good family dog and vice versa.

Get into a puppy preschool run by a dog trainer with experience in behavior. It's the most important time of a puppy's life and should be run by someone with experience in training dogs of all types and ages.

Every animal is different. I have found that after giving advice of swapping evening to morning/two small feeds fatty dogs have dropped the weight. One of my own dogs was an evening feed only, split to two meals a day and she's actually thinner on a lot more food then she used to get.

You can make an allergy diet at home with the right vets help. Anne has been right, on a lot of medications you dont really get a good idea what has been flaring the dog up.

in the immortal lyrics of Anthrax ... always room for one more I'm sometimes glad everything I want is overseas otherwise I'd be swimming in Malinois right now.

I had my bordeaux and rottweiler both put their heads through my garage windows (ferrets running riot and they didn't notice the glass) so I just replaced them with sheets of clear perspex from Bunnings. The Malinois headbutting my front window though cost me a replacement. Damn you people wandering into my front yard *shakes fist*

Feed in the morning or break it up. You're starving the dogs body during the most active part of the day then letting it sit on it's meal at night hence the weight gain. It's why the volume reduction doesnt work.

You shouldn't open capsules if you can avoid it. Many things are in capsule form for a reason - to prevent the stomach acids from destroying the contents in some cases or in some cases increasing palateability so it's taken. Probiotics wont hurt to be overdosed. Just give the dog a whole capsule or get an animal tailored product like Vetafarm Probotic.

Don't let Karl see you said that :laugh:

Start with www.regalhaus.com.au/ and vonforell.com/ I don't know a lot of working breeders with long coats going, these two breeders will definitely know who has some

This is ridiculous. People who kill other people themselves get less then this.

Superior Steel frames will never break, we sold hundreds of them per year at my work As for pet loos do you mean the ones with the fake grass in them? Go to a synthetic turf retailer and ask for end of roll/offcuts you can get it for near nothing and just get some underbed storage containers (low flat ones) without wheels.

Rogueroyalty.com.au fordogtrainers.com Ruthless Leather best prices and quality

Then get him a vasectomy :)

The only way he can get a bitch pregnant is for you to allow him access to a bitch in heat. Fences, leashes and training were invented to fix that problem. Dogs can't magically mate unless they have a way to get at each other. If your dog can get out of your yard and access others, desexed or not you need to evaulate your level of management. Why pay for 2 surgeries? Leave him be. Desex him only if you feel you really want him to be.

Have a look at www.leerburg.com and michael ellis' clips on youtube. You need to set the ground rules of the toy and prey training before you just move into using it for obedience. Saying that I can type 50 pages long here to get you started. But the rule is, it's about you interacting with the dog with the toy, NOT just the toy itself. It's incredibly important that the dog focuses and is rewarded for looking at you, not staring at the toy. A ball on a string, or something on a string the dog loves is the easiest way to start. The dog is never to run off with the toy or to do victory laps, that's possession of the prey item which you don't want. You also don't force the toy towards the dog. If the dog loses interest, remove the toy. While flicking don't make it too easy and place it in the dogs mouth, flick it back so the dog has to chase. You want to incite the drive so when the dog finally get's the object it means more. Don't keep teasing until the dog loses interest, you want to reward when the dog's peaked so the reward means the most. Half arsed interest gets the toy removed.

The point of a treat is it is a taste of something. Fresher food coats the mouth so you can use smaller bits, train for longer without filing the dog up/causing stomach ache, and is fast to be eaten so the dog doesn't have to sit there and chew. The treat is only ever the intermediary between you and the dog anyway, it should not be massive hunking bits. It's really adding to you being the reward in a manner the dog understands, not the whole reward itself. It's why I use hotdog and Kabana, even the toothless old dogs can still get a treat without working too hard to chew it.

Majority have no class. Except Mina ... if another dog sniffs her or dares lay some saliva on her she quickly has to inspect the area and clean all evidence of contact. All humans must be thoroughly sniffed before being allowed to pat her. Total lady :laugh:

The stomach and crotch hits are the worst. She's dropped OH and a friend of ours a few times :laugh: she always has that look of 'that will teach you to' as she trots off with her toy :laugh:

I started the Vet Science degree at Melbourne, I went to uni with people who had never owned an animal before and some refused to actually touch some species, especially large animals as they were smelly, dirty, gross etc. Problem is the full fee system, they expected a lot of money per year up front to go to uni (yes, even Australian students) and hence when my loans dried up I had to discontinue. As one girl said, Dad's not updating the Mercedes this year so I can go to uni :D I know work experience is encouraged but it's nothing special. If they got together with some breeders, kennels etc it wouldn't be hard to have students be present at a birth. It's just not that important at uni. Like birds, reptiles, fish, nutrition ...

My girls dad is 45kg, and you get the odd male pup that gets that big in the lines :laugh: the freight train gene is genetic, I thought she was bad enough when she almost tore my shoulder out doing a mid air launch for a toy, her dad is like being hit by a car!

If the dog is well muscles I wouldn't worry about more body fat, especially in a long backed breed like a basset hound. If she's way too ribby my trick is, yes, porriage too. I take the home brand minute oats and some puppy milk and make that into a warm porriage, you can add some tinned fish if you really want but if the dog is not used to it add it slowly over the course of a couple of weeks to prevent farty bum bum. I don't mind pet minces and chicken minces with bones, it's only chicken carcass minced up. A dog with a decent digestive system should be able to digest it. If your dog is on a processed only diet you should introduce it slowly with a decent probiotic.