Nekhbet

http://leerburg.com/dogtrainingebooks.htm he also has a very good forum

prey training is not as simple as just building drive in a dog and rewarding. It can backfire where the dog is SOO driven and riled up you then shoot past the point of training to see the dogs brain explode from excitement. If you want to train in drive I would go see someone who has been using it and has experience in harnessing the drive. Although when it comes to things like cars I would want to see some hardcore proofing before your dog runs out and gets hit. See if you can find someone that used to or still trains Schutzhund dogs as their training is heavily focussed on prey drive and precision control through it. http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?show...t=#entry2812764 Remember that food and pack drives are also something to be utilised - prey training is not for every dog or every owner. Yes you need to work or proofing and focus BUT you need to show some stability in your dog before you go off and do agility in with other dogs. Over excited dogs, especially some breeds, can redirect all their anxiety and nip or fight or ignore you completely.

your pup is not too young, in fact he should be training months ago. Dog training and behavior starts at 8 weeks. SOunds like your dog needs to learn manners more then tricks. THe cars are probably prey drive and some territoriality, you should be working on teaching him cars are too be ignored - his behavior is an accident waiting to happen. You shoudlnt have to situation specifically train your dog. OK so he doesnt get to see alpacas much but when you say 'come' it shouldnt matter whats happening he comes to you. Go to different places and work on proofing his commands out in distraction. Backyards are boring, of course he'll listen! As for the desexing - well considering his behavior I dont think a little less testosterone would be such a bad thing for him. As for attacking other dogs you need a trainer to help you overall as I think you're too focussed on the 'trick' element and not the overall picture of how the dog needs to relate to his world and you :D I dont know of any trainers in Perth, hang about and I'm sure some DOLers will help you out with suggestions

eh vets are too negative I fixed flat feet before - good quality diet (nothing from the supermarket) in a giant breed formula and chiropractic/massage My dog also got to the point at about 12 months where more then a few minutes walking and he was puffing, in pain and not able to go any further. He also had a hideous limp in his front leg which the vet offered to cut open for $1800 and reconstruct his shoulder turns out he had a sore lower back and him throwing the weight on his front legs made him limp ... and being 40+ kg didnt help much either so we went from this (mmmm look at those pancakes) at 7 1/2 months this is at about 19 months of age - fit as a fiddle and walking fine. He now gets chiropractic as required it ALWAYS pays to get a second opinion and dont take no for an answer until you exhaust all avenues. Dogs are tough, and sometimes what one person will write off another can fix.

I take care of the fleas if I need to and that is a rare occurance there is a heartworm tablet that is cheaper, i know some people on here bought them in bulk but I cant remember what they were - wormers you just get every 3 months I know how you feel, try 3 plus other animals on a single income

5 month old what? I feed my large/giant breed whole chickens, and maryland etc from a young age. If your dog is coping well with the wings and necks the larger will be fine, just dont give a glut of bones the pup may become constipated.

depends what the anxiety is about. If the exercise is unstructured and increases anxiety then yes - cut it right back and start in small increments of controlled 'exercises' and stop before the dog gets out of control. I can see the merit, especially in dogs that go bananas after say going off leash, playing rediculously in the backyard. Just because a dog runs around for an hour or two doesnt mean it will be tired. But this should be coupled with focus training and anxiety supression then just short bursts I tire my clients dogs out with a half hour structured walk, low energy and encouraging focus - then they did walking randomly for well over an hour. They pack up and go to sleep on a calm, focussed walk more then the dogs that strain and rush about.

depends on the severity of the teeth - if there is now inflammation of the gums or heavy calculus (plaque) it would be better for a quick sedation and clean the teeth, remove the bad ones and start with a clean state. once they get past a point or the bacteria get under the gun you cannot clean it with toothbrush alone. as for the pancreatitis there are many dry foods available for it - Hills, Royal Canin and Eukanuba make vet ranges. Speak to your vet about what she is allowed to have and some dry food will give her something to crunch on. If your dog cannot eat dental treats then I wouldnt be giving it ANY bones at all - all bones have a degree of fat or marrow inside them and the meat content can still be fatty enough to tip them over the edge.

practice whenever you can. DOnt limit obedience to 'set' times because as you would know, even we dont feel like it sometimes! When you see the dog is really up for some work get some training in, even a couple of times and really reinforce it for her, make a big fuss. You will find her improve at a better rate.

I dont use a stay command - I teach my dogs that what command I give (sit, drop etc) means just that until I tell you otherwise. She may not completely understand what you mean by stay or its not nice for her - obviously drop she understands so why not stick with that and start again? I would go like this (pretend YES is a marker word like a clicker) DROP! - YES - OK - treat and praise start short lengths of time, then gradually increase. Teach the dog that it stays in a drop until you release it - if you have to recommand the drop so be it but then you might be expecting too much from the dog. Keep your dog focussed on you, if you make it fun and no treat comes until the end of the exercise (so you are showing that staying in a drop until you say different is the way drop works) the dog will have to work to get what it wants. You are rewarding before the exercise is over so the dog effectively has not much to work for. Make the dog work for its reward, dont be afraid to be a little strict in your parameters but remember - keep it fun for the dog too. Make it WANT to do the exercise and do it gradually so you will find you wont have what you have now - one minute the dog can go a few minutes in the position, the next the dog just walks off. edited for clarity

if she can focus, as poodlefan said, get her to focus. In reality you will be doing a focus under heavy distraction exercise with her - if you also know her critical distance move outside it in the beginning. Also, no feed first (unless she needs it for medical reasons) and use food as an extra incentive. Step by baby step with this and gradually decrease the distance between you and the distraction. Do not do the biggest owner boo boo there is ... the 'Lets Test The Dog' exercise where they suddenly put the dog right up close or under heavy pressure/distraction ... then when this happens ... they wonder why they are either back to or even BEFORE step one. As for the drop stay a few questions : do you use the word stay or just drop do you have a release word what usually happens when she breaks the stay? how has she been proofed in the exercise p.s. Dog Borstal is a BBC show which is like boot camp for really bad dogs. There is 3 different trainers with different philosophies and the owners have to then pass a test at the end of the show short but good watching

i'm over youtube - its now overly commercialised and has also become the place where you advertise how STUPIDLY and dangerously you can do something and somehow (unfortunately in some cases) live on to probably procreate and spread your stupidity ...

look up dog borstal torrents or try limewire (just virus check the files before opening) its ocassionally repeated on foxtel but fairly haphazardly which is annoying not much on youtube

OMG yeah some of the owners on that show I cant get over people that cry when told their dog is .... drumroll please .. A DOG *faint* although I have made people cry too ... I told a lady to put her destructive young dane in a crate to help with house training and she burst into tears about 'OH I could never cage my poor baby' well OK then you live with destruction.

I know I recoiled in horror .... err it was the 'positive' trainer (woman) who dealt with a couple with 2 jack russells she was a complete nuffer, did nothing for the dogs in the end at all and her training was so haphazard and random Mic Martin on the other hand ... wa wa weee wa nope. you need to train the dog and provide her with the desired behavior during that circumstance. A check chain or martingale can provide a consequence and also prevent the dog getting too excited so you can better control the dog at a lower anxiety level, and easier to get her attention to teach focus. I see a lot of these types of problems, it takes one short lesson to get the ball rolling with the dog of what is wanted and unwanted behavior. ETA when I use the word anxiety I dont mean it in the human context - I mean it as in 'unfocussed energy' that can then swing to behaviors such as over excitement, fear, aggression etc so its not limited to one 'emotion' per say

has anyone ever watched Dog Borstal? saw a trainer on there with a JRT in a halti on a long line ... teaching the dog the boundries by letting it hit the end of the leash and whipping about

ausdog is John Harkin adn Ian Bradnock funny they completely discourage puppy preschools and say they make them anti social and have undesirable behaviors - errrr I dont agree with this - maybe a poor puppy preschool is a bad idea but dogs need socialisation outside the home and exposure to everything combined with the right training to make them a good, bombproof adult and the claim that most behavioral issues can be solved after one consultation - well depends what it is.

if your dog is still lunging then they do not have an adequate understanding that the end of the leash means the end of the leash. I would go back a few steps and teach the dog the concept of what a leash means and that there is no tension at all times - this is a problem sorted before 12 months not still continuing at 17 sometimes a correction chain or a matingale collar can help as well with this, then you need to redirect the dog and improve focus - so when your dog DOES see another animal etc and gets excited it will automatically look to you for permission instead of lunging if your club has trouble with this concept PM or email me

yeah Dr Jack Ayerbe was in on the whole thing too ... Its called Pet Goods Direct crock crock crock this is the same vet who thinks you should take kittens home any time from 6 weeks onwards ... good one

bathing 3 times daily? Holy moly no wonder they cant stop scratching! Look at diet - take out grains (especially wheat) can food, dog rolls etc and go to a basic dry food which has a single protein source in it also stop giving random snacks and table scraps. Cut back the diet to the bare bones and see what happens after a couple of weeks The oils are there because the vet must think they are lacking in their diet. An overall change will be better then supplements. I use fish oil capsules but my dogs swallow them easily is their skin dry and flakey as well or are they just scratching? You can buy little canine pyjamas and tshirts to limit exposure to the grass outside or just dont let them on it for a while and see if it makes a difference as well. As for cortisone, there is a cortavance spray which is only for the skin instead of taking a systemic tablet. It wont hurt the dog at all.

what ... like this ... its called greywater well one bit is looking a little shitty, the rest is up above my knees *sigh* anyone need grazing land?

thats OK! you get the power pack on its own, get a roll of string and then get either the insulated brackets that screw into the fence or the repositionable plastic poles with the clips - mix and match depends on your yard you buy as many poles as you need and cut the string to length. If the poles have a little trouble staying upright due to tension I cable tied them to a few places along the fence

you should have farm and rural supplies, they will have the speedrite parts. Conversely contact Speedrite and they will let you know who the local distributors are ETA some farm supplies still use the Thunderbird systems (different brand) which are just as good. Oh and white ping string is the best because the dogs learn white string = no go and so then you can just start using normal string in other areas I did that with the vege garden

one method is to bury strong wire or even weldmesh radiating a couple of feed under the ground at the base of the fence. Dog can dig but cant get too far. Concrete sleepers at the end of the mesh will keep the little bugger from finding the edge of the mesh and digging at that Electric - well I used a speedrite power pack (plugs in) used the movable plastic rods that you just push in the ground and have clips at varying levels, and white shock string. Cost me about $230 in total for my huge backyard. Earth rod you can pick up for free in the junk yard you just need a steel rod (or 3 for really dry gound) and hammer them deep in to the ground ... oh yeah away from your underground pipes babies dont mean no attention, and it shouldnt mean the end of the world if the dog is already accepting of its status. Pushy dogs allowed to get away with things are going to become pushier - so dont let him get his way. Also teaching them that baby is off limits and that baby time is not push in time will make life easier. Dont go pushing the baby under the dogs nose - its not their business. This way you wont stress and they will make their own fun. Like I said interactive toys are a better way then static toys. Play dates also help alleviate stress. here is my ping string set up ... Its been turned off for months best thing is its non invasive, quick to set up and relocatable. You can sell off the power pack for almost what you bought it too but they're worth keeping.

at 5 years of age desexing will make minimal difference, frankly unless he's causing problems I wouldnt rush to make it the saviour of your issues You can try getting an electric fence kit for a while, a little temp fence low to the ground to discourage him from trying to get to the fence and then leave a dummy string. I would let him have set play dates with the dogs next door as well to get his excitement out. Its exciting because its over there - becomes a common occurance and a pattern he might stop the digging Rotate his toys, find ones that really float his boat - there are toys by Prestige Pet that you can record your voice, they bark or make animal noises. Also whack his food in treat balls (the triple crown ones I find are very good) and he only gets fed from those - food soon overtakes the need to dig. As for his holes, a bit of fresh doggy poo and some citronella crytals in the common spots will discourage him as well