Nekhbet

i found the seminar really insightful especially how tightly she controls situations in order to only really cement the habit and pattern you want from the dog in a performance. I too find this a better way then what I have seen before with a clicker I think many of us are going to have to force our dogs lazy brains to think for themselves! now how do you do that with a mastiff ... *food food food food food food food*

shame on you! yeah boyd was the one hobbling around on crutches

that was Boyd that brought up that point LL

the worst thing you can do with dogs is generalise - since a lot of behavior is misdiagnosed as 'fear aggression' and there can be many variables that contribute towards the 'aggressive' outcome (I dont like that word) it may be worst, same or better in a 'neutral' environment. THe outcome can also be different with a new handler - give them a better handler and you can see a decrease in the outburst or even cessation.

is that an open seminar or rotty club only HR?

just got home and i have mild sunburn ... *sigh* dogs are tuckered ... well the Malinois wants to go for a run - *double sigh* very insightful

if someone knows the start time could you please SMS me on 0401389863 I cant find it anywhere

hey if not I get a holiday and a refund *sigh* cant wait the puppas need some time away from the house ... I think tomorrow is a loooooxury DVD and tipple evening at the BnB

I do one of two things - put your hand over the muzzle and press slightly so the top lips roll in over the top teeth or put thumb under tongue and apply gentle pressure until the pup squirms. Conversely if its getting out of hand grab by the scruff and hold it until it settles. Sin bin can work but you are not teaching the alternative desired behavior. That and pups have little attention span by the time you let it out it has little idea what happened. Get the pup before it gets too excited, and at this age there is no aggression - if there is you have a one in a million dog. Its sheer over excitement and lack of boundries which is why pups bite - they are testing where the boundries are and how far they can get away with things.

aussie dog toys triple crown treat balls in the largest size - make him work for his food Prestige Pet make tough talking balls - they have recorded noises inside to stimulate the dog to play not just to destroy. I think they also make a recordable one so you can record your own voice as well Your lab needs a job to do so more interactive toys will keep him stimulated.

gentle has no meaning until you teach it - and frankly you should not have to attach a word to this action this is a respect and control exercise. What you are doing is building tension and some drive for that food through making the dog wait and gradually creeping towards it. I was actually helping a client with this last night. Have the dog in close, get the dog to perform an action it knows well eg - sit. as soon as the dog does it (you will have a treat in your hand) you use a flat hand and put the treat to the dogs mouth and you pretty much press the palm of your hand on the mouth/nose and the dog will automatically lick it off. Having your hand so close and the treat pretty much already in its mouth it will not snap. Just give a 'good dog' praise and repeat. within half an hour the dog was getting treats and not snatching your whole hand. The trick is to teach that the treat is coming and it will be immediate. Snappy dogs are 1) too excited and 2) sometimes grab it as the timing is rather random. If the dog DOES try a snap, remove your hand and say 'bahh' then recommand the original position and try again. The bahh will let the dog know that 'you stuffed it up, try again'. No food until the dog is calm - teach calm as an overall habit not as a trick. Also you should be having a command for your dog to eat or take things from you in general this too helps dogs develop control and patience.

Tomas I am saying that in order for a cell the size of Candida to permeate through the gut there would have to be a physical hole in the gut wall itself - the cells of the gut lining are the ones that do the absorption. Since candida cannot enter a cell they would have to get into the blood stream through physical holes that puncture right through the layers that make up the intestinal wall which in the scheme of things is quite thick, and then through the walls of the vessels. If this was occuring there would be telltale signs of blood in the fecal matter and extreme pain to the animal. I'm not discounting it I just mention its a pretty extreme thing to just happen without major symptoms

leaky gut is also called Dysbiosis as its theoretically caused by an imbalance in the gut - the beginnings would be more typical GI symptoms of bloating, wind, diahorea, mucus on the stools etc typical symptoms of a gut infection. Information tends to point that macromolecules, toxins and other substances will have an effect before Candida on the body. All the websites tend to have different stories on the condition and rather broad - Black skin is a side effect from constant licking as well it doesnt have to have a microorganism to cause it. Smells are definately caused by bacterias/fungus/yeast but that is for a skin scraping to confirm what exactly it is. if the dog was severely immunocomprimised you would have a possibility of Candia albicans overpopulating the gut, somehow leaking through the gut wall (thats quite a hole in the lining of the gut you should understand - it would have to pass though the wall not the cells themselves) travelling through the blood system and then infesting the skin without causing other severe issues. Chance of that is slim and not proven scientifically 100%

tried spraying her with a bottle? Say 'shoosh' and spray her at the same time so she knows what you're trying to convey to her with it. She probably doesnt understand what YOU mean and everytime you talk to her she ups the ante trying to get your attention again.

red staffy you train whats good for the dog - BUT in saying that puppies need a lot of encouragement. Many people are stuck in the 'its not dog training unless you physically correct' but not all dogs need it and NO puppy needs constant chastising or physical punishments. Even my working Malinois wasnt raised like that - I taught her through encouragements and rewarding activities to build her confidence. You should be actively encouraging your dog to follow, clickers are great because owners can be rather 'bland' or a little mistimed in marking their dogs good behavior and well what pup doesnt like food - that and some owners are SO unexciting when it comes to rewarding ... more then happy to yank on a check chain or tell the dog off but when the dog does something right *fizzle*. I'm not purely positive - but if a dog I see needs encouragement to outweigh the punishment factor then thats what happens. I know what you mean there are clubs that outright ban equipment and methods which to me limits the club and the trainers but then you move on to what works for you.

forgot to add Phenergen is perfectly fine for dogs and its cheap! Diesel gets a 25mg tablet (he's about 50kg now) when he's itchy, he's not too drowsy but at least he gets a good night sleep from it :rolleyes:

sounds like your mum needs to rethink the management of the dog. Obviously he's not happy outside and not coping so he needs to be inside in order to have a better quality of life. Would you consider sending him to your dads? I dont feel right that he's being punished so severely when all he needs to be is inside.

how the heck does yeast leak out of a dogs gut onto the skin? Sorry that cant happen. Yeasts are opportunistic - if there is a problem then they take hold. The bodys primary fuel source is Glucose which is a product of digestion. If there is a problem with allergies then they take over and the body has trouble. Z/d is useless for many dogs and I find it rediculous an allergy diet is SO low in any protein and so high in carbs. Kavik Diesel is very sensitive and Royal Canin large breed (never tried the GSD formula) was the only thing him and Krueger both did well on. I thought the Coprice was OK I'm back to RC as diesel and skootas skins have gone bad again on the food. Apart from that maybe a pure raw diet is the only way to go with him.

easy way to teach the dog what a leash means. use a 6 foot leash (roughly for large breeds, littlies you can have a shorter one) and just start walking around. When the pup hits the end of the leash, turn around and give little sharp tugs on the leash and call nice and loudly and happily 'PUP PUP PUP COME ON PUP PUP!" Your voice will over ride whats happening and distracting your dog. Praise the dog and make fuss when it comes closer to you. Move off again and as soon as the dog follows 'GOOD PUP GOOD PUP' and praise the dog as it does the right thing. If it shows interest in something STOP all communication and do a sharp turn, little tugs and as soon as it starts paying attention again "COME ON PUP PUP' and get it to follow again. With older dogs I sometimes use a check chain to provide a correction if they get to the end of the leash (especially those that have no concept of the leash and are stubborn or no boundries - one good correction when they bolt off then happily call them to me and encourage them with little tugs on the lead, massive praise etc), with pups just a little correction on a flat collar will do the trick. Just be conscious of your dogs size, no massive yanks are required here at all. Usually have dogs understanding a lead and walking loosely in under half an hour. The trick is to never have a constant tension on the leash to give the dog a chance to learn the opposition response and put it into practice. Also short sharp constant tugs will be like someone poking you - you cant ignore it and it redirects the brain without making the whole exercise negative and frustrating. Its not - its about the dog learning to follow you, focus on what you're doing and following your lead. The reason I dont use treats a lot (maybe as a jackpot if thats what floats the dogs boat) is that this is one of the non negotiables I have for dogs. They should understand that its part of life to walk along calmly with your handler, to be led and to focus - it also gets the owners involved with their dogs, to use verbal rewards and to make themselves as a person more interesting to their dog. Too much food tends to make it a bit of a trick for some dogs, a little like giving your child a lolly every time they say thank you. Stitch dont worry I work with adult dogs that cant walk on leads.

dear god woman - this dog is already stressed and confused by not being able to see and you're throwing water on it and smacking it!? Put on a blindfold and you wander round the backyard for a while then have someone smack you when you call for help. take him to the vet and get his hearing checked as well as a good all over check - he could be going deaf and not realise he's making so much noise as well. He could also be in pain and hence feeling more vulnerable. Failing that start keeping him inside and give him a routine. He needs familiarity, he needs routine and most of all he needs to feel safe. The poor bugger is obviously NOT confident in the yard anymore and hence is reacting since he cannot see to defend himself.

with problems like skin etc remember sometimes the effects of the offending substance can long outlast the exposure - If I feed my rotty eagle pack his skin is shitty for weeks even though he goes back onto a better food. I would be using exclusive protein sources for a few weeks at a time to see if maybe he is allergic to a meat type or some offal. My dogs were very ill from VAN so I never use it. If your dog needs a bit of fibre then you can add bran to any mince to help with passing.

stitch have you checked if your dobe is reacting to a certain protein source? Some dogs have problems with certain meats. Marrow bones offer nothing but a lot of fat and wear down the teeth, especially the sliced ones thats probably where he's getting his bone burying habit as well. Cavandra dogs will eat intestines of their prey and not all vitamins and minerals are in marrow. Yes there may be some but not always in good enough quantities for the dog hence sometimes you see dogs picking at fruit, veges, dirt, stones, other animal faeces etc.

most animal antibiotics are actually human ones repackaged or flavoured for dogs. I have used human ones I had around the house (I asked my friend first who is a vet of 10 years) and that is what she said - same ingredient just different package. make sure he stays warm and dont walk him out in the freezing cold air, wait until the ambient temp is a little nicer before taking him out. I also would not be letting him sit about all day even if thats all he wants to do as for the cardiac issue you can have some testing done when he gets better. Depending on how long the hear was without oxygen will dictate how much of the cardiac tissue was damaged. See what the vet says but if it were my dog slow steady exercise, keep him lean and healthy. Bypass patients are made to get up and walk asap (my dad had a quadruple and no cotton wool there!) so same for the dog. A healthy heart is one that does regular exercise. They should have been doing an anaesthetic chart and giving him pure oxygen during his anaesthetic, he should also have been under an O2 saturation monitor. If they used just an injected anaesthetic for that prolonged period with no oxygen there may be more damage to both the brain and heart. If the dog had a properly sized tube then how did he aspirate vomit? Or was there no tube in when he vomited

erny bring Mandela ... put him up next to mine and he will be the shining beacon of obedience want me to bring a sleeve people can have a go if they like Diesel's being a right turd today so he's spending time out in the car while we're visiting mum *sigh* what did I do to deserve a rottie p.s. if you want delayed training wait till you see the rotty. His tricks extend to sit and drop ... only because everything else includes movements that one of his dodgy legs seems to hinder. poor bugger has trouble play bowing and tug of war let alone anything else He only started walking like a proper dog again a few months ago

not all vets know the ins and outs of nutritional problems manifesting as physical symptoms - how many dogs I have seen in and out of vets with skin/ear problems and on hundreds of dollars worth of meds only to be on teh road to recovery after a simple diet change. fattening up is over rated. As long as the pup is not emaciated and there is decent steady muscle growth then that is the important part. My dogue took longer to grow but he's a nice solid healthy dog now even though he was shorter then many others while he was growing. Big deal I had a healthy dog that kicked arse at lure coursing when many people laughed that he would be too slow remember too that large - giant breeds can take anywhere from 18 months to 3 years to finish maturing! We still hold this misconception that by the age of 12 months its done and dusted which spurs on this over feeding myth. Less can be more Good luck with your pup I'm sure it will come good in your care