Nekhbet

get a crate for when you want him inside and cannot supervise other times have him on a leash and clip him too you he doesnt know whats happening yet so dont assume he's automatically 'trained' he just hasnt pushed the boundary yet As for the cat give it escape routes and high places to go away from the dog. Also another reason to keep dog on leash, you can keep an eye and not the let the dog go after the cat if it bolts around the house.

ok so wont write I your motivational training skills then Erny I can I'm hormonal .. thats my story and I'm sticking to it

No sorry that sounded a little harsh ... it was more that she is a greater specialist in the positive method and if that is what the owner prefers for their dog and themselves then she would be a better choice then me I'm having a scatterbrain day today walking zombie ahoy!

get him a litter box that smells like his wee - dab a tissue in some of his urine or leave a little smear of poo in paper based litter and give him an indoor place to go. Get a Britex machine and wash your carpets within an inch of their lives. He doesnt understand that inside is a no no, he just understands not to do it in front of you. Dont worry mum has a 10 year old Pom that still wees inside if someone elses dog comes round Block access to that area unless you are right there with him or keep him on a leash and teach him to litter box.

sounds like something a long time coming. AmBull - not suprised on his behavior. He's not an immediate PTS case but be prepared to keep him separate permanently or at least until you can regain some control over him. Think too did you gather the other 7 gradually or did you always have them together ... sounds like a big lack of control issue and he is doing what his genetics tell him - control everything! I am one trainer, I dont mind travelling, have AmBull and aggressive dog experience. There are many others on here as well so the choice is yours our websites are at the bottom of our posts. I will say though that if you will only use positive training methods then choose someone like Kelpi-i as I dont take cases where personal preference severely restrict my training or the owners are not comfortable using a regime I prescribe I use what is right for the dog.

Bonnie working dog (made by Purina)

http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/puppie...les-spaniel.asp 38 puppy notices here and http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/breede...les-spaniel.asp 281 breeders

I use a dremel with a stone slightly coned attachment its the only thing that gets through the nails and finishes them nicely. And no blood my malinois bleeds for ages if you even snip half a mm too far *sigh*

if your dogs are fat cut back dinner if they are thin up the breakfast packets can be way off. I also find the amount varies with the seasons as well - in summer my dogs are happy to go a day without food at all, in winter they need a little more to keep condition. remember quality as well - more active dogs can be kept in condition with raw meaty bones, a higher fat food whereas the chubbers lower the protein and fat.

you have to give them time. I also dont like letting the pup spend unsupervised time with my other dogs for a couple of months so the pup bonds to me instead of the dogs. It spends more time alone with me learning what I want then learning what the other dog wants and then we start the gradual process. Your older dog sounds like she's gotten away with getting what she wants when she wants and now isnt happy about it. You have to train them that they get everything when YOU are ready to give it. You need to retrain your existing dogs as well as your puppy what the rules of the house are. Also respect the dogs - dont let the puppy push the older dogs around or use their stuff and vice versa. The older ones have to respect that nothing is theirs, you own it all and they just get to use it. remember they all need their alone time with you as well to cement the relationship. The only reason I dont like dogs sorting out their own pecking order is that if you have two fairly evenly matched personalities then watch out. It recently happened at my place over a bed - my two boys had a rumble and now they spend minimal time together and its highly supervised by me. There is no way they would create rank as their attitudes are the same. You have to control your dogs and their environment in order to have a happy home!

that covers all dogs. If you cannot accept a dog for what it is then do not own it. Watering down a breed creates its own set of instability and problems. Most dogs should be out of reach for the average idiot, not watered down so they cannot harm another dog or person. I see more dogs act confrontationally or roughly through lack of leadership and consequence from their owners then simply being the breed.

excellent! Whats his bloodlines? Looks like a nice solid dog (compared to my petit 23kg princess Mal )

most kids prefer lollies and icecream to their dinner so we give them what they want? you are responsible for your dog, and it eats what is good for it. Canned food for the average dog - nope. Dogs need meaty bones if they can stomach them and should be chewing. I can imagine what the teeth look like on a wet food only diet for 12 months. Canned food is lazy food, the guts barely have to do any work for it and really holds minimal benefits other then your dog likes it. Dry food and meaty bones I find keep the dog in good condition, good teeth and not too much poo. when you swap your dog over dont be suprised if what comes out the back end stinks for a while. Your dogs guts will have to get used to doing some work and not being on a highly processed, pretty much predigested liquid diet. Introduce it slowly and give your dog a small spoon of yoghurt every day to help its digestive system cope. Same if you give edible bones - small things like a bashed chicken neck (if it doesnt get any at all at the moment) and give it a couple of days in between to make sure the dog does not become constipated. If it does a little spoon of castor oil down the throat works try again every few days to let the gut get used to eating what a dog is meant to. This is my bitch, she's 5 1/2 years and been on a kibble/raw meaty bone diet since I got her at 10 weeks

actually byproducts from animals are the low end of the scale when it comes to what is in the food - feathers, feet etc http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?page=badingredients this is American though and will cover US imported foods. seeing that dogs are more then happy to eat and roll in dead things, even poo, I think getting too precious about their diet without medical basis is just unnecessary. I feed RC because my dogs have intolerances to everything else or loose condition on a raw diet which costs me an absolute fortune. Some people would not let it touch their dogs, I wouldnt feed anything else. as long as its not crammed with wheat, artificial colours and flavours and not byproduct (this is for allergy and $$ reasons), I'm not going to toss and turn at night over labels.

http://www.dogsvictoria.org.au/assets/dr%2...l%20process.pdf I found this on it ... make sure they look into his diet and exercise as well not just jumping straight into the surgery

speak to your breeder FIRST before about what you plan to feed, they know their dogs. frankly a large breed puppy for a first timer would be better on a food like Royal Canin, Eagle Pack and add raw meaty bones. edited spelling ;p

thats OK I emailed her with Mark Singers contact and website I think Robert is very pricey comparably

i would not buy anything pedigree, stick with Advance if he is doing OK. You can also try something like Royal Canin or Eagle Pack. I would be giving chicken necks and wings, maybe a little bit of lamb flap to gnaw on. Raw meaty bones are better then pet mince

Hey guys I have an email from a lady in Adelaide she has an 11 year old dog that has Separation anxiety and now the daytime barking has her in trouble with the council. The dogs problems are ruling her life and she's very stressed about it can you make me a recommendation and contact details of any good behaviorists that have dealt with this? Julie Just PM me or post here

dogs live until they cannot anymore. My last German Shepherd was 14 and my grandmothers rottweiler Mushka was 16 when they both died. Dont listen to the old 'oh she's getting old now' as you see peoples attitude change. I only cease treatment on my animals when their health has deteriorated down to really poor levels - this is irrespective of age. Get her to lose some more weight, make sure she's down that you can easily feel ribs. Feed her a few raw meaty bones along with the joint formula and whack a jacket on her plus some leg warmer :cool: I used old socks, cut them off at the heel and pull them up to keep the legs warm remember exercise is crucial. Make sure she walks and keeps her muscle and dont be in a hurry to put her straight onto pain meds. See a holistic vet if there is one in your area who can do things like chiropracty, acupuncture, Bowen etc I find they do a world of good as they do the whole animal not just look at one tiny area. I dont see why you cant have her around for another few years if she is healthy and well maintained

new vet - find one that specialises or get a referral for this type of problem and area. most vets will give you the antibiotic treatment. Have his blood tested for organ function and overall health as well this should have been done first, then test his urine for kidney function.

for the papers you can get limited register papers - you cannot breed or show but it is proof of pedigree if there is no one home during the day a tiny puppy like a mini poodle cannot hang on that long in a crate. You can have a litter box, shallow, with paper based litter (nothing clay or crystal) wipe up a little urine and put that in the litter box. Then teach the pup that is where it has to go (not newspaper) and hence during the day the pup has a place to go. The crate is a place to sleep and a discouragement from wandering around to pee/poo around the house BUT it will need to be let out at night. Its bladder is tiny so when it whines at night take it out for a wee, BUT dont play with it or make a fuss unless it goes toilet - if you do the pup might learn to whine for attention and never stop! If you are away about what, 7-8 hours your puppy will need a midday meal. Is there someone who can feed it at lunch time? You may have to leave a little bowl of dry food out for the pup. Do not change the pups diet quickly either, give it a week or so to settle then another week to gradually change the food. Oh and try and avoid canned food its really not worth the money. A good quality dry food and then some fresh meaty bones like a bashed chicken neck (supervised) is much much healthier long term. Dont leave fresh bones out for long in the heat they can spoil, let the pup play for an hour or two then throw out what is left over. Honestly a pup that small I woudlnt leave outside alone. It is so tiny, susceptable to the weather and easily stolen. Try the litter training :cool:

you are rewarding his crazy behavior so enough of this. Dogs are a high value reward for him and effectively you are showing him that the more he pulls and carries on then you will reward him with seeing the other dog. Other dogs find this behavior rude and confrontational. He has a high chance of being attacked or 'taught a lesson' especially if he meets up another really dominant dog. Her dogs are simply behaving how most dogs will towards a dog 1) larger then them and 2) jumping all over them and barking. You need to train him to be quiet, take him to training or call a trainer to teach him that yes - he can say hello but his owner is #1 when it comes to his attention, and that carrying on like a pork chop will NEVER happen. Ever. Period. You also need to probably introduce him to a fairly bombproof dog who he can learn dog body language from sounds like he's lacking a little in that lesson. :cool:

your dog has little respect for you, and it is up to the parents to show the dog not to bite children, not to let them do it. Have her on a leash around the kids, if she acts up 'bahhhh uh uh' and walk her away. She has learned tricks so far but not manners. THey are natually pushy dogs as well, its what they were bred for, so take that into consideration. For the jumping, 2 pot lids hidden behind your back and when she runs to jump on you bang them in her face. She'll be shocked and if she tries it again give it another go. Get her to sit for you, reward with a treat (praise can excite dogs) and practice. As for the mouthing, when she grabs you put your thumb under her tongue and press gently until she submits. That or grab her top lips and roll them in, pressing the inside on the lips on the points of her top teeth until she submits. Sorry at this age you missed the mark, you need to be more pro-active. This is a working dog that needs guidence and to be shown what to do. ETA just watch her a this age jumping in/out of cars. I have seen a heeler that fell out of a car at under 12 months and $1500 surgery later to repair the leg. If you dont let a 5 year old child jump on and off a ute dont let a 7 month old pup

its from nibbling his own fur. Hair is VERY abraisive and will wear down the incisors. We had a golden come into the clinic one day and his years of itchy skin had worn down most of his incisors nearly down to the gum line. nothing you can do about it really just keep an eye on them that he doesnt break on off at the gum or it becomes infected. Dogs can live very well with few to even no teeth.