Nekhbet

ask for lamb flaps, necks, ribs for her to chew. If she's doing alright on the Advanced stick to it as her main component yes they do the same thing, some dogs to better on one then the other though, I have heard joint guard has more success

J/d is quite large kibble and I didnt think it was made for puppies as it has no more then 20% protein. and you're paying for this get yourself a good supplement for dogs, there is Sashas Blend, sea flex, etc and add that too the food. Take away any foods that you know irritate your dogs system and add more raw as has been said.

i didnt mean to use a check chain with the leash as you can see from above post off leash and not working can build frustration in the handler, you can easily still mark the dog trying to do something wrong you just dont give it an opportunity to make a big mistake if you get my drift. why make things harder for yourself? If you have the chance to prevent major mistakes and also have a tool to help guide the dog into position or use it as an extension of your own arm why not? we saw it at the Uta Bindels seminar, she was mortified people went straight to no leash and then had a list of problems or 'needs correction' a mile long. I see your point but it can be frustrating as well to a dog that keeps getting NRMs for wrong behavior.

it depends how much you rely on the leash schutzhund trainers love the leash as it gives you greater control and you have the power to limit or even prevent mistakes. It doesnt have to be heavy just a fine one on a flat collar to use as guiding tools if you have to.

start her in the heel position and as laffi said take a step foreward, lure but pull your hand slightly further foreward then your knee to make sure she stays in position YES , SIT treat link it as an exercise and do it step by step she gets the reward after the fact

AVA has a list of holistic veterinarians on their website

keep the lead on for all training sessions and dont let her lag at all. Instead of a correction just give her little tugs to encourage, not punish. do it in short sessions, make it interesting for her as well dont stick to a consistant walking pattern so she becomes bored. Make it fun and exciting, heaps of verbal praise when she does it right not just food, let food be the jackpot for performing. have you tried using a clicker to mark her behavior?

have him on the full length of the lead as soon as he tries to get ahead, do a quick direction change and 'pop pop pop' COME ON PUP COME ON! and when he reaches you give him some food. Dont stop it gives the dog a chance to think! Keep moving at a good speed, make him follow you willingly (never ah ah him let the correction come from the collar, not you) and you are always positive and happy. If he is a naturally shy or reclusive dog verbal + Physical punishment can push him away from you. Timidity can mean what you think is an average tone could be conveying dissapointment or something to avoid for him and hence he shuts down. Let the punishment come from the collar and you are always the pool of happiness, sunshine and food. If he really bolts ahead give him a good correction but same again, give him a second before you call him so the punishment sinks in. Yes you're on a leash, theres a limit to and and guess what happens when you reach said limit - but its OK because I'm the source of all that is good for you you will find that the dog naturally will gravitate to you - and PRAISE EVERY TIME he even looks at you! FOr every correction I want at least 2-3 praises ... and praise is not , eh yeah ok its 'GOOD DOG!' firm, happy and very clear to him he's a good dog! you can usually stop pulling in one session like this but make your corrections quality over quantity!

my tone has been lost over the net obviously but logic dictates a delicate puppy neck should not be receiving corrections from a choker chain if not for anything but medical reasons. Most pups are soft and require little correcting but as you see the pitfall of your originally taught method, it does little to motivate and more to suppress interest in you for some dogs. I provided you with quite a good method for a beagle that is sniff orientated .. hey I even used a smiley flat collars are all that is required for puppies they learn just as quickly if you push their buttons. I am not against choker chains at all in fact I use them for my own dogs but as I said, never on a puppy under 6 months of age it is not required at all.

can you please come and explain that to my rottweiler he missed that memo telling him Caro said so

that is fabulous JD19 I am sure you are cherishing every moment. we are after if anyone has information about how to make a splint for Diesels hind leg. We are fearing he may not last until christmas he has recently gone downhill and that hock and hip is not helping. The leg rotates, it has not been in the socket properly for months but I think its putting strain on the hock even more. any ideas or recommendations welcome. Maybe we should just make him a cart *sigh*

no its over diagnosed. True separation anxiety and high drive/anxiety are two different things. missing out on bite inhibition and basic behavior from littermates is not a phase. I agree the OP should be guiding the dog but firstly it needs to learn that NO biting is acceptable in any way shape or form. Living with a toddler you have to make sure the dog understands as you cannot be everywhere 100% of the time. None of what i have recommended is an adult dog method it is what the mother would have done to the litter and gets through. you have hit the nail on the head. The dog still needs to be guided and led towards what you want too many people are big on NO NO NO and forget the praise but remember it has to be a balance

so when you walk do you expect a tight competition heel or a loose lead walk where he just doesnt pass in front of you so are you keeping pressure on him whilst getting him in position? Sounds like he gets a pattern but not an overall walk. why not just give him a little correction on his collar if he's trying to pull or get ahead and only keep your voice to praising him for focus. If he wont sit push his bum down! I wouldnt be stopping and pulling him into position he's not understanding. Also if you're on a walk he shouldnt be in a tight heel its quite high pressure. He should be next to you and not ahead of you but that comes as he comes to understand the leash and trust you.

what do you mean by this? He could be confused and think he's being corrected for doing something he's meant too

it could be the peanut butter causing her runny poo or just being upset. Chicken necks can keep her busy (depending on breed size) or turkey necks, wings etc at 8 weeks its not separation anxiety, give your pup more time to settle in and the crying will stop. Be strong! Its hard to resist those puppy eyes I know

why do you want to mash vegetables with his dry food? He's a dog give him meat! I would be going drumsticks instead of necks or even turkey, lamb bones, rabbit etc there are rubber tug toys available or you can even use the Jute/firehose style from sporting dog stores for schutzhund and security dogs. watch the tug of war when he starts teething or he may injure himself on the tug toy. Stop completely until his new teeth come through.

how big is your dog? I think for anything smaller then about 10kg they would be a whopping fat hit why dont you try chicken winds, drumsticks or half carcasses?

vets have no clue these days and many do NOT recommend bones the virbac range of dental products is quite substantial no wonder! I never feed these products anyway have you read the list of ingredients on them? Even Greenies they are unnatural

try something like Bonnie Working Dog or Coprice, go to the butcher and get some meat scraps/dog bones they are cheap as chips to add to your dogs diet. those cheap dry foods alone are not enough but can be a good base.

its not easy to get bitten when holding by the scruff especially if the dog has a collar on. You can sit and sip a cup of tea while said ratbag throws a tantrum but anyway ... up to the OP what they are comfortable with I just hope any trainer that comes in teaches bite inhibition

you do NOT use chokers on pups under 6 months of age - EVER. We dont even do it with security dogs. further to that you should be teaching your puppy to focus and follow you naturally not wrangling it into place by punishments. You will also cause 'learned helplessness' where constant punishments means they lose their effect and the dog will do what it wants irrespective of your corrections because hey, its gonna get it anyway. start off in the backyard and have the dog on a flat collar, unfed and have some treats. Call the dog to you excitedly and as soon as it even looks at you 'YAAAAAAAY GOOD DOG' show the food have the puppy run to you, feed, repeat. You want the pup to bond to you, to WANT to work. Its a baby! The start mocining onto the street in front of your home, again let the pup explore what the leash means, what the boundries are and make it more interested in you. Again no chain required and should not be. A hungry pup will learn faster too another trick is to just feed the pup through training. What you are doing is the same as putting a foreign language book in front of a 5 year old child and smacking it about the head for not understanding it... without guidance, encouragement and leadership they will learn nothing, and punishments do not speed up the process. if you are needing to use chains on baby puppies you are not training correctly at all.

You never taught your puppy bite inhibition - he was taken away from his litter WAY too early and now you see why it is better to leave them to learn about biting and manners from other dogs. Wrong breed for early separation. crack down on him, get tough and take away the treats. You need to get him used to handling, bite inhibition, manners and respect. Time for boot camp on this dog. Not only have you over babied him but he does not get the right punishment to fit the crime - If your grandson went and punched another child in the face would you simply go 'no' .... As soon as he makes his move to bite grab him by the scruff swiftly, hold him and GRRRR NO as loud as you can. Hold him until he submits and calms down JUST like his mother would of between 5-8 weeks of age - and he will squeal, wriggle, scream, fuss, sook but you have had children and you should know what a tantrum looks like dogs will throw tantrums as good as the most spoiled toddler and that is how your dog is behaving. You keep hold until that tantrum is over and then ignore him for a while. Its now your job to teach him to become a dog. Teach him it is BEYOND unacceptable to even think about this behavior or he will become another one of those dogs at the vet that 'just bit the child and we dont know why' get a realistic trainer that will teach the dog right from wrong not treat it within an inch of its life. Manners are an intrinsic part of the dogs life and real leadership doesnt require a pocket full of treats at all times. There are things that are just never ever done by a dog.

carey cut the tips off the cats claws or you risk your puppy with an eye injury or a shredded face dont let the pup do it, if its untrustworthy keep it on a leash whilst inside to prevent accidents and make sure the cat has escape places

I sent a PM last night I hope it made sense you can post it on here if it does

ringworm is a fungal infection of the skin ... if you have a cat it could have come from there blacklight and saving that a skin scrape under the microscope to check for mange.