Nekhbet

yup he has drive and he sounds bored! He needs activities to keep his mind stimulated and for you to show you are the boss in the house! http://www.ehow.com/videos-on_7888_dog-tri...lling-over.html there is a list here of videos that have tricks. The pulling you can stop in a session. Instead of stopping, I want you to change direction and call the dog happily, have him on a long leash, and when he comes to you immediately say 'YES!! GOOD DOG!' pat and walk on. Every time he looks at you PRAISE! you do not need food constantly, just as a jackpot when he's really behaving. If he looses attention, when you change direction do little tugs on the lead, sharp POP POP POP on his collar to snap his mind out of it. This redirects the dog, dont be afraid if he's ignoring to make them a little sharper! As soon as he turns keep talking 'COME, COME BOY COME ON GOOD DOG!' until he reaches you. The trick is to flood the mind and keep him focussed and motivated. You know the technique when police are apprehending a suspect and they constantly yell at them? Same theory behind it - flood the mind and other actions/thoughts are hard to do when the mind is so focussed on the flood of speech or sensation. Also maybe consider some herding classes if there is a club around. You will find he settles once he learns some more structure. He is a working dog and wants to work!

you going to do bitework? be a shame not to?

if you have a working family coming to you with a couple of small children who the puppy is regularly munching - what do you do? The pup will be in the pound or rehomed faster then you can say boo if you told them "well in about 2-3 months it may stop' life is not perfect. It would be nice to live everything with cotton wool but we cannot. because they are dogs. Yup. 4 legs, tail, lick their own genitals, dogs. If we let THEM make decisions about everything it's not a pretty sight long term in many instances. It is up to you to make decisions about reactions and perceived threats for them. If done incorrectly ANY training method will cause problems. Not every dog is the same. The problem is people say 'oh with my dog blah blah blah worked'. I own 3 dogs at the moment who have 3 different methods of training due to their personal differences. Some dogs need to be pushed, some dogs even need to be forced in order to achieve a more balanced life. The problem is some people see it as 'cruel' or 'hurting of doggy feelings' Force for the sake of force is ego and cruel - yet force coupled with behavior and training can sometimes be right for a particular animal to get over its problem and lead a more normal life and for the owner to enjoy life walking the dog again. I think you do misunderstand my way of training. I do not hurt dogs, I do not inflict pain unless (the time when one particular dog was about to take my face off was another matter) and I do not terrorise them. I get them over their mental hurdles and I support them the whole way through so when they come out the other side it's not 'OMG I'M NEVER DOING THAT AGAIN WITHOUT FORCE' they think 'err wow. That wasnt so bad, HEY I EVEN GOT GREAT THINGS I WANNA DO THIS AGAIN!!!". As for the ACD a dog working in high levels of drive thinks much differently to one not. Of course an ACD can be kicked by a cow and keep going it would fail as a worker if not. My own dogs trained in bitework have been hurt, one kneed straight in the ribs and yelped - she kept going with what we later worked out was a damaged rib. Your reaction is scaled to the dog, its genetics, its nerve, its drive level at the time. No dog is treated the same and to say one size fits all is wrong. I have been involved in Schutzhund and security/PP dogs as well as helping average pets. I see all ends of the spectrum including high drive trained dogs that flip you the bird and dare you to try and teach them anything. stresses are a part of life. We have exams, deadlines, bosses who breathe down our necks etc. We dont all float through life doing what we want and it all being hunky dory. The difference is some people swim without help and others need that old 'You can do it' from someone else, hell some need the proverbial kick in the pants to get on with it. Dogs are no different - some are a breeze and some need more then just the kid glove treatment.

RIP Pat you did the right thing persephone even though I know its the hardest thing to do

hugs and stay strong deelee dont let anyone make you think you made the wrong decision ... she is free now

the meat is full of fat, salt and offcut meat (usually reclaimed meat blasted off carcasses with high pressure) yes your dog is riding the just food train. Long term its not healthy there is no calcium, trace elements, vitamins etc. Feed it sparingly with a good quality dry food. I would not feed a lot due to the salt content.

Oh Cripes Erny poor Mandela! And poor you I know its been an almost daily worry with him for you Fingers and paws crossed for you here if you need anything give us a buzz

I tend to wonder WHERE veterinary behaviorists get their 'qualifications' to teach people how to train dogs. I have met 2, spent time with them and frankly neither have a clue in hell about how to even get a dog to walk on the leash properly. Mind you dont you DARE use a check chain, it has to be a Halti ... no no doesnt matter what the dog it works on all of them didnt you know Frankly ... who's asking the dog. Dont like it tough titties in my household. One of my dogs turned around when he was told off once, and by that it was an 'OI get out of it'. Teeth bared, puffed out, lunged at me barking. He decided he didnt WANT to leave the food bucket alone. He stood there carrying on like a pork chop and I had a plastic dustpan and brush in my hand. Midway through his foam fest I tapped him on the nose with the brush and then stood there quietly looking at him. Well ... the look of confusion and sheer embaressment was obvious, I shut the dog food bin and walked off. He sucked up to me all afternoon but I ignored him. Never had a repeat of anything like that again. Didnt have to hurt him, trust me it was literally a bop on the nose but it was enough to break his tantrum and coupled with ignoring him (and no dinner) for being such a turd he changed him mind about trying that again. There is nothing wrong with breaking a tantrum, holding a dog etc. Dogs ARE physical creatures with each other. We now have this namby pamby idea that touching our dogs is abject abuse and cruelty, we might hurt their feelings or emotionally scar them or some crap like that. Really it's BS. It's going over the top, yes modern motivational methods have their place and have highly advanced dog training but FFS if the dog needs a kick in the arse for trying to bite a person I would have no qualms in doing it. None of my dogs have ever carried on mouthing, puppy tantrums, arguing about handling etc past a couple of weeks of being with me. Fosters either. My last foster was a nervous wreck, scared of everything etc. So tough love. Dont like it, dont care you are in a new house with new rules. So we got over it. Harrass my dog? Guess what you get pinned down by my bitch and I'm not running over to save you. After a week at my place she now lives with 2 giant dogs, a horse and is very well behaved. We're creating and perpetuating problems. I can say this until I'm blue in the face but I'm rarely listened to. No one should be guilted out of using a corrective aid. If its not your cup of tea DIRECT THEM TO SOMEONE WHO WILL TEACH THEM THE PROPER WAY OF USING IT or show them if it needs it at all.

why dont you join a weekly dog obedience or arrange a session with Mark Singer http://www.caninetraining.com.au/ you need to learn to get her to listen instead of cycling through difference equipment. It could be an overall lifestyle problem more then just the leash Harnesses etc do not SOLVE the problem they simply offer an option to decrease the amount of pulling. What you can inadvertantly do is desensitise your dog - I have seen dogs on 20 different walking aids and nothing works anymore. They pull against them all as they think thats what they have been trained to do.

you have to train overriding extreme emotion. What do you think that would entail. I have trained bite inhibition in older, more extreme dogs and it's not as simple as letting them mouth you then tone it down. To do that would be like putting the dog ON the kitchen table and teaching it backwards from there never to get on.

baby puppies also dont have teeth either. The reason we and they grow teeth is to start eating solids. Where did this pearl of wisdom come from? Some tiny breeds barely grow teeth until later then larger breeds. So what, they dont need BI? Pups teeth are baby teeth, they need to be sharp (like our own baby teeth) to poke through the gum and allow the pup to EAT. In the wild they would be eating regurgitated meat and gnawing on left overs from the adults and hence would wear those points a bit faster then we have them when on sloppy puppy foods. A dog is a dog is a dog. If it is put in an extreme situation it will behave as an animal will - unpredictable. It may be nice or it may be in so much pain it bites the person. Bite inhibition is not the only thing that will dictate the power of a bite. A dogs nerve, drive, previous training (and I'm not talking bite inhibition) and personality will. A hard, dominant, massive male allowed to mouth people? Get ready for shreds to be taken off if he's cornered. Again this has nothing to do with allowing your dog to bite you. It's a rediculous concept. Especially his 'human aggressive' dog ... Sorry I really cannot take this seriously. I had a severely human aggressive dog given to me once and there was no way she was allowed to think about mouthing me let alone doing it. She learned very quickly and in the FIRST DAY that rule was learned. She went on to never even try again. So to ENCOURAGE a dog to mouth IMO is 1) negligent especially to the average dog owner and 2) very very silly. you dont have to agree with everything. Feel free to disagree sometimes with someone instead of convincing yourself they are right. Pieces of paper on a wall, books, tv shows etc etc does not make someone a logical, followable human.

sorry but I dont agree. If a dog is injured or frightened sometimes no matter what the training it will bite you and hard. I know my dogs have bite inhibition, I trained them myself. It has been tested as my rottie, although in a lot of pain, warned but did not dare bite a veterinarian. He knows its not allowed. So no, I dont agree with dunbar. As I said dogs dont think in degrees, they think yes or no.

you sure there is BM in that dog? Looks just like a BYB rottie to me

I have to wait until I'm paid by my new job ... it was meant to be on wednesday BUT looks like next week and I now work in Melbourne so I wont be home sun/mon/tues. Next week I'll get a urine sample done, prob bloods if I can afford them too and see what going on.

I'm not using any medications until he goes and gets his kidneys tested. Yesterday he was peeing like a racehorse multiple times really desperate to go and it stank. I have fingers crossed he doesnt have kidney damage from his previous medications. cavNrott I'm not sure if they are a good idea anyway. Last time they almost killed him and made him so lethargic he just lay there and wasted away. His left hip is no longer in the socket, it hasnt dropped but it rotates something shocking now, and the bend in the heck is getting bigger. I dont want him to be full of pain killers, use that leg and break it or something terrible ... maybe i'm being a drama queen but I'm in a panic over him lately...

the website is in progress at the moment http://rememberdiesel.webs.com/ there will be a blog section for people to add their comments and experiences with poor breeding and genetic conditions. I will post the address when its done He's getting about, whinging a lot through a spends a lot of time licking his legs. He's sore. Norocarp doesnt work, Rimadyl makes him vomit so warmth, supplements and a comfy bed plus a phenergen to help him sleep and settle any histamine swelling he has.

highly recommend Mark Singer why do long distance when hands on and practical training is available? I think your trainer is not the right one for you and your dog. Contact Mark.

didnt you know? Purina make Bonnie, purina one, pro plan, beneful, lucky dog, total care and supercoat as well as friskies and fancy feast for cats. thats why I wont by pro plan.

he's spoiled. And the reason nothing has come of it is because no one has pushed the point with the dog. If any of mine growled or barked back at me like that there would be a boot planted firmly in their butts be careful when you say 'ignore' does the dog get ignored as a punishment or does he think his behavior has gotten him a win? depends on the dog. Sometimes a dog has to be told, I have held puppies by the scruff/collar until they stop throwing their tanty (and then you slowly lift you hand and the little brats still doing his best 'i'm being murdered' impression) other times they get ignored and basic privilages removed just to show who's boss. I go by the 'behave or go without' rules. that is not fixing the issue that is burying your head in the sand. Sometimes they NEED a good scruff. You can't make exceptions for the dog, avoid things because puppy might throw a tantrum. YOU do what you want and if the dog doesnt like it, tough. Throw a tantrum? Great go for it because you will see it gets you nothing. Behave it gets you everything.

WORKING LINE MALINOIS 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) owner 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? The breed(s) were developed in Belgium. Different regions had their own unique dog, the Malinois coming from the Malines region, as herding dogs. The Malinois has now been streamlined into a more utilitarian breed for military, police, SR, etc 3. How common is it in Australia? still fairly uncommon, more popular in working/sport circles then pet 4. What is the average lifespan? Malinois will live into their teens. 5. What is the general temperament/personality? very sensitive breed, devoted to their owners and become VERY attached to you. They do not respond well to harsh or overly physical people. A thinking breed they do not like highly repetitive work and pattern work, they prefer to use their minds and problem solve but they are incredibly fast learners. Tolerance to other dogs I have noticed can be limited for some dogs, and once they take a disliking to a person it is hard to make them trust again. If you are not their owner they wont forgive quickly and definately wont forget. I have also noticed my girl is mildly social, doesnt mind a pat now and then but on the whole sticks to me. They know they have a job to do and will do it, don't provide one and they will make one. Become bored easily. They also have their own breed 'eccentricities'. Having a dog bare teeth and snap at your face will put most people off but my girl wants to play. She will never bit she just sits there and air snaps. They also behave rather snake like, say if a new dog comes up to my girl she will stand still, slowly follow the dog with her eyes and then slooooooooowly lean in to reach the dogs face and 'BANG' either a nip or nose poke to say 'OK enough' and walk off. They are slow to mature. They are no way adults by 18 months, even 2 years, I would say mentally my bitch was really coming out as a mature, hard girl at 3+. Could be lines, could be her. I also left her entire. Uncontrolled drive levels, lack of civil drive, weak nerves, human and dog aggression can all be problems in the breed so chose wisely. 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? how long can you stay conscious? My Malinois used to work a 12 hour shift with me then come home, grab her toy and jump about wanting to play *sigh* Although it is quality over quantity when it comes to exercise. If you think a couple of long walks a day will satisfy the dog it wont. Exercise that involves thinking tire the dog more, treadmills are excellent for them. My own dogs relatives are in their early teens and STILL want to work! So dont think mals have a short work life! 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? No. I would never recommend a working Malinois to someone who has not had dogs before, it is too complicated a breed. 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? If you can provide space, good toys, another dog and work them enough outside then yes they can. I have worked full time and as long as my girl gets her training sessions she was fine during the day. They can jump VERY tall fences and nusience bark if they are bored, and they can bark non stop for hours on end. If you are not dedicated to doing something almost every day for the next 10+ years dont get yourself a working mal. They are not 'oh i'm too tired to look at the dog today' type dogs. 9. How much grooming is required? Minimal. I use a kong zoom groom when she's shedding her undercoat twice a year and a good bath. Apart from that not much really. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? very small children I would not let near my dog, she has a low tolerance for them. If the dog has been brought up in a household that has children and a very experienced owner then yes. 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? HD/ED, thyroid, eye problems like PRA, cataracts, lipid deposits, apart from that an overall quite healthy breed. 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) If you are buying a working pup LOOK AT THE PARENTS. Meet them, look at what the breeder has been doing with the pups (socialisation is very important in this breed) and see how stable a temperament the lines have. The malinois gene pool in Aus is quite small, most dogs will link back to some quite famous dogs and kennels both from here and overseas (de deaux pottois being one) do not buy from a breeder who encourages aggression in their dogs and sells it to you as 'workability and drive'. A poor temperament Malinois is a millstone around your neck as well as a liability. Working Mals can be calm, quiet and friendly without losing their great workability and drive. For people new to working Mals I always direct them to www.malinois.net.au as a start and to see if a working Mal will be suitable for their situation, and Amanda is a wealth of information for both show/work lines. Make sure you see hip/elbow scores for the parents and do some digging as to any health problems in the lines.

OK I just read this bit properly. What was he thinking when he wrote this? Yeah fabulous idea. We are not dogs, we are people. It only takes once for the dog to become over excited and bite you hard. Grey areas in dog training are a no go. There is no maybe, there is yes or no. Think of it this way, if you don't think a behavior will be particularly 'cute', 'funny' or 'painless' when in a few months it escalates in size and intensity you nip in in the bud IMMEDIATELY. Instead of then letting a list of complaints grow and trying to break bad habits you could extinguish before they even come to be.

you have to make birds unexciting. There are 2 methods - find something more exciting - couple the birds with something not too nice what you can try and do it break her concentration. Grab a really loud whistle or air horn and when she starts the whole bird routine 'BEEP' just a quick one. When she turns to you pull out her favourite toy and play getting her focus on you. Same again as soon as she turns to look at a bird 'BEEP' repeat. the unfortunate thing about prey work is it can open a can of worms. You are showing the dog how fun prey drive is, you are encouraging it etc and hence the dog will self reward. You HAVE to have some control over the dog though before you keep just pumping at drive. Building drive is not training, it is creating a tool. Saying that some dogs may not have the personality or nerves to cope with such high prey drive levels. Any dog that was behaving like yours I would be backing down how much you encourage the prey drive and how fast you bring it out.

control your dogs. YOu are letting the pack run itself which will end up in that older dog hurt or a fight will break out. It is up to YOU to say what behaviors are acceptable. Yes OK the younger is the better of the two males, that is natural in a pack especially if the older is sicker. But you have let him become pushy, shown with him pushing you for attention. Put them all on the same routine, the same rules etc, and if one stuffs up everyone in the vecinity gets in trouble. Simple. If he pushes to get attention, push him back and grrrr. He will, in all probability find the older dog and try and have a go, as dogs do when they think their high up and get told off. If he even looks at the other dog crooked just shout 'ARRGHHHH GRR NO'. If he doesnt stop grab him straightaway quietly and put him out of the room until he settles. Let them have their own beds, bowls etc and do not allow pushing off. If one tries to make the other move remove the bed. Dont tell the more dominant one off and make the lesser 'preferential' just remove the bed to show it's neither of their beds it's YOURS. Let them lay on the floor. That is how the dog brain works a little round about but it's resources, especially if you have entire cycling bitches in the house.

Well I think the time will come sooner then later for Diesel boy. His legs have really gone downhill in the past week. I have been in Melbourne for 5 days working and I came back last night. He's not a pretty sight his right leg is so much worst. It's barely holding on, he stood in the lounge yesterday looking at me and his foot was out at almost a 90 degree angle to his body His elbows are now bowing as well to try and support all his bodyweight since his back end's on the verge of collapse poor poppet was so happy to see me he was bounding about like a bunny last nite rotty wiggling away. THen he just lay on the floor and didnt want to get up no matter how much I called him he over did it. Diesel just turned a whole 2 years old on the 28th of August ... It's Krueger all over again. 2nd birthday and euthanasia when his back end gave up on him. Looks like my poor D will go the same way. I want to make a website of him. I can't just let him be forgotten. He had so much to offer the world and negligent morons bred him with a death sentence. It's not fair. How many other people are going through the same thing, watching their animals waste before them and struggle in their short young lives. I'm just so angry at the moment I've been crying all morning.

IMO a dog should stop mouting in a couple of weeks not in a few months. I dont like graduation for the average dog owner it introduces too many grey areas. no mouthing is acceptable EVER. Simple, clear and easy for the dog to remember. If a pup ever tried to even put its teeth on me it was growled at and GRRR NO, if it ignored and bit/nipped it was scruffed and growled at then ignored. It's something you nip in the bud quickly, not over a period of time. By 6 months most people are tearing their hair out at the fact the dog is STILL exhibiting the behaviors. It can stop quickly and it wont traumatise your dog. In fact it is better earlier as you are instilling RIGHT behaviors during the pups critical learning period, before 14/16 weeks of age.