Nekhbet

The T4 is Thyroxine precursor for the active T3 (triiodothyronine) made in the thyroid gland TSH is Thyroid Stimulating Hormone, made in the anterior pituitary gland and regulates the secretions from the thyroid gland Thyroglobulin is the protein used by the thyroid gland to make thyroid hormones The tests in USA test for autoimmune responses to T3/T4 and thyroglobulin which means that the body MAY BE producing the thyroid hormones then systematically binding them to Ig (immunoglobulins or antibodies) which is an auto-immune response. hence why tests here in Aus can show levels being OK and yet technically they are not.

is the pain definitely in the elbow? I would be seeing a chiropractor as dogs with a bad leg or two tend to shift the weight and create other problems like limps, strains etc. I have a severely ED/HD dog and holistic therapies got him walking again. I would consider that as part of your management ASAP, get the dog as thin as you can and get a proper good quality large breed puppy dry food. Pain will also come fast during growth spurts so yes you can see downward slips very quickly as pups.

i wouldnt be putting anything in the dogs eyes that is that far out of date some general creams, yeah had them sitting for a while but meds, no.

if you cannot supervise then you either contain puppy or put chewables out of reach make sure you provide rotation and engaging toys to take his mind off actively seeking things to chew. As for the digging, you have a boxer and most will discover this on their own again either fence away diggable areas, put fresh poo just under the surface of buried holes and even supply a kiddy plastic shell pool with holes drilled in the bottom and sand in it for digging time and teach him to dig in there.

is your dog bored? Are you becoming uninteresting? if a training session is NOT working i would rather cut it and try again when the dog is in the mood. Obviously he had energy to burn and you probably would have benefitted from doing some physical routines with him at a higher pace and then try some calmer exercises. dont push training or the dogs interest slips further and further.

basically positive punishment - the application of a punisher negative punishment - the removal of the reward positive reward - application of the reward on compliance (often mistakenly called 'positive training) negative reward - removal of a punisher on compliance (eg stim the dog with an e-collar until it looks at you then stop) so all that 'purely positive' training actually relies on negative punishment and positive reinforcement. The terms positive and negative are more 'application or removal' then good/bad. You do what works for your dog. No one training method can work for ALL dogs, that is fact. Different training methods still rely on the 4 basics above, they simply select which they use, if at all, when, how and with what. http://animals.howstuffworks.com/pets/dog-...g.htm/printable this is a basic overview.

what type of muzzle is it? Dont use those nylon or highly restrictive ones try and get a basket type muzzle that is quite light any vet clinic should be able to get it for you http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=WDVW&rd=1 meantime I put some nice food like kabana in there and let the dog eat out of it, then clip in on while it's full of tasty treats. stop feeling bad and stressed for the dog it's only a muzzle and she will get over it. My own dog wears one in the car as she is terrible destructive and she doesnt care. If you stress, she will stress. A little tough love can help a dog especially with aggression issues.

check the links is the same one coming apart all the time? If it is remove it and slip in a new one. They can loosen over time.

i think its more to do with breeding practices and the amount of chemicals we pump into our animals puppies have a habit of getting into everything grotty so unless you keep them solely inside their whole lives on disinfected floors I wouldnt say that being the primary cause

good for you SK, that is the secret. Don't have a closed mind (and I know it's hard to try and branch out when you're a newby) but if you simply use some logic you will go far. horses for courses. Not every dog needs a check chain but then again not every dog can be well mannered quickly and efficiently without one. They're not about abuse they're sort of more like the mother who tells her child 'if you run with your shoelace untied you'll trip and hurt yourself' .. kid wont listen, mother lets them learn the hard way and they soon learn faster that you better do it or there's a consequence! Actually if corrections are applied properly there is no stress, in fact there can be a decrease in the anxiety of the dog. I use corrections in suppression work when applicable and after a couple through check chains or dd collars the dog is a calmer, happier and more relaxed individual. hope your boy behaves himself!

he's still young and you need to be a little more consistant. Any dog can be taught anything at any age you just have to stick with it religiously, especially when it comes to toilet training! Keep him in the house but keep an eye on him even keep him on a leash, if you cannot then put him in his puppy pen for the time being. Outside is not the answer and he will learn nothing out there. as for the cat they are just playing. I would cut the tips off the cats claws so he doesnt scratch the dogs eyeballs. Let them play, if you see it getting too rough clap your hands and loudly say 'AHH STOP' to break his concentration. ALso make sure the cat has an escape route or a cornered kitty can do some damage to a small dog. Spitz are very human orientated and he's barking to try and initiate play with you. He wants human interaction and you should be having him inside with you. Instead of a puppy pad or newspaper try a shallow tray with some paper based litter in it for him to wee/poo on that way he cannot miss and it's a bit more black and white for him. Watch him like a hawk and if you cannot watch him put him in a puppy pen with his litter box. I would rather he in something like the laundry as dogs do not like to pee/poo directly where they eat and sleep so you can at least move the toilet away from his area. He can still smell his pheremones on the pebble. Get some biozet or urine removal product, spray it on the pebbles then give them a good hosing. Then I would be spreading the keep off or just a little fence. I would be leaving a poo or two in the area you want him to go in to he gets the idea or lead him there when he needs to go and praise like hell! for leash walking try this : have a decent length leash and a flat collar. Start walking, when the dog shoots past you do a 180 degree turn and keep walking. Give him little tugs on the leash and say 'come on! come pup pup pup come on!' in a loud happy voice and when he reaches you 'YAAAAY GOOD DOG!!!' praise praise praise! Keep walking, every time the pup doesnt pull or looks at you PRAISE! if he shoots ahead do a 180 and encourage him to follow. do not stop. Stopping allows the dog to get away with it and teaches him you will stop so he can carry on his pulling. This method also teaches the dog that 1) really really good things come from walking nicely and 2) he has to pay attention or he misses where you are walking. The little pops are NOT yanks. Just little sharp *pop pop pop pop*to encourage him to follow and it also blocks the brain from going into an opposition response (ie full on pulling) I only use treats as jackpot rewards (ie he did REALLY well!) otherwise they lose their specialness to the dog as for lying down when you said sit he probaby does not really understand sit and probably got a better reward for down so he's pulling the trick to get the reward. If he does it, 'ahh ahh', call him over to you again and say 'sit' then use your hands to put him in the right position, and push a treat into his mouth. One smooth movement so he has no room for error. If he does pull the drop for sit then simply ahh, recommand to move him out of it and help him.

if you pour hot water over the kibble and let it cool it should soak to a softer consistancy, enough that it wont get stuck and then you can really whip up a good soup when its all cool for him

would he be OK on a soupy meal? make up some warm stock and pour it over his food then beat with a whisk then he has to slurp it up. For his teeth give him bigger bones he can't break off and swallow, or just tooth brush them. conversely RC haev some rather large kibbles out there ... even my gulping Malinois can't swallow the giant as much as she tried once and now has to chew it slowly

how were you keeping him? with a problem like that I would only keep to crate/laundry and small leash walks. I would also consider seeing a chiropractor. My dogue had a limp which one vet said was a shoulder problem and required $1800 worth of surgery ... well turns out he had a bad disc in his back and what you paid for the vet paid for multiple chiro visits. dogs will limp, it stops the leg being further used and more damage. He's also probably limping because the anti inflammatories have worn off. I dont like using them a lot, if there is a small amount of pain that is good for me as it stops the dog using the leg and causing more damage because he cannot feed the bodys natural 'whoah settle down' mechanism. I would still limit his interaction with the other dogs and short leash walks to prevent muscle wastage over the long term.

I'd pop a quick email over to Amanda Russell in QLD, if anyone would know it would be her malinois.net.au

it could also be misreading of the dog - Malinois do not act nor show the same signals as other breeds. Mine will show very subtle signs before she goes for a quick *snap* and what some people think is lovely dovey behavior, hers is actually 'ok I want to go home now'. Is this a dog/bitch and is it entire? there are some mals with some spectacular temperament faults due to poor breeding. Weak nerve is not a pretty thing to see in a a mal. There isn't a rage syndrome per say but combining bad breeding with a high drive dog asks for trouble. Also I would like to know what they consider appropriately socialised. Socialise wrongly during fear periods and create some lifelong problems. My own bitch went from happy go lucky one day to shaking in the same situation another. I would be going to full brain scan and bloodwork to check for hormonal imbalances and possible tumours causing the problem before assuming it is straight behavior.

Kia Skoota is a Dogue de Bordeaux him now with another smaller dogue we fostered for a couple of weeks (the smaller one in front) whoops forgot to add broken rottie .. watching television group embaressment what happens when you annoy mummy past the point of no return ...

I dont know if it's a new trainer or not I just wanted to know who it was ... heard some rather disturbing advice given from the puppy preschool trainer to new owners.

corvus I aim for no screaming and it is possible without pandering to the dog. Also if the OP has to go to work then they can't sit there waiting until the pet settles. You are rewarding their noise making with returning, hit the wrong dog and your method will create a dog that barks constantly until the owner returns. dogs are tougher then we give them credit for. Shelleandshayla has the idea - Kezza some dogs are simply more vocal then others. My malinois brother was SO vocal he screamed for almost a week straight and was nearly handed back to the breeder before he shut up every dog is different. The trick is to ignore it early or you will have a permanent screamer.

maybe we should all stay in touch to make sure we get the relevant info on time

oh that is genetic and staffys never grow out of it ... well most dogs dont our rottie is the best at it

my car seat STILL looks like that bit of a momento now that Kruegs has passed ... he was pooping orange foam for a week though I still cannot believe how teeny weeny skoota was when he arrived pretzel dog always sleeps like this

sorry a dog of that size with that behavior needs a corrective device, be it a chain, DD collar or a prong. that's why progress is slow - the is no repercussion to their carrying on. I would keep the check chain on Kei every time you are out in public and as soon as he starts any hint of carrying on, CORRECT WELL and turn around happily 'come on Kei, heel!' correction comes from the chain, not you. If you are always positive and bubbly, and the correction only comes from the chain you will find his behavior decreases faster and he will look to you more. At the moment it sounds like you are working for the dog more then the dog works for you he'll come round he just needs a good proverbial boot up the backside what absolute rubbish and how dare she say that to you! They are there to provide training help not just take the easy dogs to make the place look good with all the horror stories I'm hearing lately there is no surprise owners get so frustrated. Looks like there is few real trainers out there yet they are happy to lay out a hand and take your cash

if it is the dog in your avatar then you should know shepherds can be very very vocal with all of my pups I have never had a screamer. I give them food, water and only put them to bed when they are really tuckered out. when you leave THEN feed so she is preoccupied leave a radio or TV on for her so she doesnt feel too alone get a few interactive toys like the ones from Prestige Pet ignore her screaming completely its the only way for the pup to learn. I mean ignore as in dont even look at the dog BUT as soon as she's quiet go praise quietly.