Nekhbet

one quick and easy lesson when he nips put your thumb under the tongue and apply a gentle pressure until he gives in and whines then walk off and ignore. When he is gentle remember to praise a lot, but in the mean time he needs to learn. Nipping = excitement = not listening and more noise tends to add to it. A nice physical reminder of 'this is wrong and should never happen again' is the easiest way and should be nipped in the bud ASAP. As for the leash just rub a little chilli sauce on it and ignore it completely, it will stop

chiropractor, I agree. There is something wrong with the dogs legs or spine and probably just uncomfortable to jump around with that feeling.

can I ask a question .. if they are first time dog owners with children is the dogs personality resilient enough to stand up to their inexperience? If you're rehoming an anxiety, stressy dog to a busy household why didnt you start the desensitisation process with lawn mowers, vacuums etc.

with a dog like that I think investing in an E-collar and introducing some repercussions for her behavior will be the ticket. Get a trainer to HAS GOOD EXPERIENCE with the collar to use it with you and show you what to do. Positive only goes so far this dog needs to start learning there are consequences to disobeying. And you need some guarenteed safety in your dog that it wont bolt out in front of a car or run away and fight with another dog who is intimidated by her size and behavior. The reward level for her running off is obviously very high and I think the faster you nip this in the bud the better.

I agree get someone to come and see what happens inside your home and out. Meanwhile I would be walking them separately and working on seeing 1) what is the trigger 2) who starts the behavior and 3) walking maybe in a quieter area and working on a bit of controlled walking with little distraction. Also what happens in your home has a lot of baring. If she already an anxious bitch and doesnt have enough leadership, now you have given her another dog to lead too and she's stressing out!

if it were my dog I would try the anaesthetic to relieve her body of the burden of infected teeth. Those anaerobic infections can put pressure on the already failing heart. Find a good vet who will let you stay with her until the procedure and then when she wakes up. I may sound blunt but a death under anaesthetic is as peaceful as the needle anyway. She is asleep all the way so her stress will be low and they can prop her up so she doesnt have fluid collecting while she is laying down, then keep her on O2. Just my opinion but do not feel bad in ANY way if quality of life for her is not there. She has had a long, good life with you already hugs and support!!

that is a spotted turtle dove. Diamond doves are a lot smaller and different colour to spotteds. They are not native, they are in fact a feral pest. And once you have them the buggers never want to leave, even the idiot babies hang around (and then proceed to get munched by the dog because they think they can just waddle around willy nilly) Probably has made a nest, have a look if there are no eggs much up the nest and move her on.

use nutrigel, made by Troy. Complete supplement and appetite stimulant so she's getting what she needs.

yup very contageous oh if you have a cat I would get it checked out too as they tend to carry it and not show too many signs like the doggies do

cucurbitin isnt an amino acid - It's a protein made by certain members of the pumpkin family http://books.google.com.au/books?id=FRMKuB...;q=&f=false there is a few studies. This one found it did nothing to tapeworm, it did paralyse worms and help them be expelled but did not 'kill' them. Also only a few dogs were considered cured after pumpkin seed use. go the old praziquantel any day

'fight' drive or defense is more used in PP then schutzhund. Some Sch/IPO dogs never come out of prey and spend their whole careers in it, that is possible to title like this. Prey drive is just that, prey. You want to hear the difference where the dog goes from 'gimme the sleeve!! *yip yip yip*' to 'make a move and I'll take that damn sleeve from you.' and you will notice a deeper, larger bark. Defense teaches a dog to up the ante - if someone does not move in a predictable manner the dog won't think 'oh shite I barked and he's still walking towards me ... errr ... eep!'. A dog in defense - don't get the result you want? More reaction, really work that target to warn it what will happen if it doesnt listen to you. These dogs will also not prance around carrying a sleeve when the decoy drops it, but spit it out and go straight back for the decoy, usually staring them in the face and challenging them to make a move. These dogs also can be braver and not limit themselves to where they will bite. This is through training as well but there is a different confidence in there. This drive is part of the genetics of a dog, and comes with age. A young dog should never be pushed into fight/defense unless its lines show it that early or you can just break the dog. My dogue started at 18 months, nice natural defence without aggression. My Malinois took AGES she is primarily prey driven (and prey can shut her down believe it or not) but now I worked with her a bit myself and she works more in defense (anyone who has walked past my car would have heard her )

or the other way around where some dogs are SO used to a sleeve that if they dont see it they dont bite ... bit of a whoopsy if you want a security or a police dog hehe

I agree with PF, and thats what I help my clients with. I do not care about the repertoire of tricks they can do if they are ill mannered dogs. Tricks and motivational methods are GREAT for keeping dogs brains interested and improving the understanding between dog and owner but they are not the be all and end all. I would rather an owner can walk their dog down the street nicely and not worry it will lash out then the dog can do 5 different obedience commands as fast as lightening. hidden sleeve love, hidden sleeve! I just had a picture of a decoy with balls of steel tackling a malinois with no protective equipment on Since Schutzhund requires sleeve bites most wont go using too many real world situations as you want the dog to properly target the area on the sleeve. Leg bites are a no no (and decoys usually wear protective equipment in case of accidental bites and scratches) You want a dog to be using prey drive - aggression usually makes for unpredictability and lack of control by the handler. Hence the BH test for nerves before being allowed to even try Sch1.

can she walk backwards? dogs and realising their hind legs are controllable can be a bit of a mutually exclusive event I have taught my bitch 'back' and she can walk backwards quite well. The treadmill also got her thinking about how she uses her back legs (was rather unco the first couple of times) personally I would try something that involves her simply moving her back foot first, even if she rolls on her back and you offer your hand for her to kick with her back foot so she can see what she's doing and realise how to move it to touch an object.

Diablo there is a breeder in WA who has Sch titles even on their 'show lines' which I find VERY impressive. Xavier some countries such as Germany demand their dogs be tested in a different manner to ours before breeding. Here is Australia, technically, a dog simply has to be on Main Register papers in order to be bred from. In Germany dogs have to pass BH, Sch1 (to prove temperament and workability - so they have good temperament, no weak nerves, can do agility, obedience, tracking and protection work) in order to breed. Imported dogs, even show lines, will have at least Sch 1 on them. This is why I pointed you to a breeder, and have sent you a PM with a recommendation, who has Sch in their dogs titles. These dogs are proven to be capable of at least a Sch 1 and are well conformed to do the job so aim for that. Because german shepherds were banned in Australia at one point they GSDC wants a family friendly look to the breed. So no schutzhund or protection work is to be done by members of the club which I think is a great shame but that is just my opinion. You wont be thrown out of the thread but you will be hard pressed to find people on here who have or still do Schutzhund. as I've been told, the show ring

I see the point I just dont completely agree with the word 'fear' in the context. I suppose everyone has their own interpretations on terms and the darn things dont have a hard and fast standard at time . I make a distinction between a heightened anxiety and 'fear' per say when it comes to aggression and aggressive responses. luvsdogs that reaction is dogs that should not be having a check chain put on them or the correction is too high. Borders seem to be good at it, they feed off more motivational then compulsive training.

how can all aggression be fear based? What about a dog that has a go at another that comes to say, share it's bed? It has no chance of losing the bed it just wants it all to itself? And then there are the A$$hole dogs, most of the time male, who go for the lunge because they want to prove a point ... they're not sorry for it and if you tell them otherwise they'll tell you off too... it can be seen as 'fear' of losing control but I see it sometimes as 'wanting' more control then is permitted for the dog. You can control them and they still push push push because they want ultimate superiority. I use corrections with some aggressive responses but I immediately show the dog the alternative desired behavior that it should exhibit when in the situation - if these dogs 'feared' losing, one coming to mind was a very territorial x breed, then removing more decision making and lunging from him would have exacerbated fearful behavior - in fact he became more relaxed and easygoing after some corrections as he now HAD leadership and his lifes behaviors were defined in black and white for him. Most based on anxiety and fear I treat with equipment to quash the explosion then using techniques to redirect the dogs mind and create a new neutral or even positive association for the dog when faced with that stimulus again.

xavier I sent you a PM I agree diablo, a weak nerved dog is a bigger liability then a well bred working dog. Pressure of any sort can be its biggest enemy and too many times I see flighty, fear biting dogs that are hard to control through weak nerves and mixed bag breeding when it comes to the dam/sires temperaments Unfortunately here there is too big a distinction between working and pet lines. In Europe the line is blurred - this breed is meant to be both a family pet AND guardian hence the dogs need defense as well as a family friendly temperament, tolerance and stable nerve.

Dont worry most of us will travel to you seeing the dog in its home environment and maybe even taking a walk as well to evaluate what is going on is the best start to solving your dogs behavior problems. Meanwhile I would not be taking him to dog parks and allowing him any more opportunity to scrap. Go for walks but NO offleash until you get some control and he is properly assessed by a professional. Sounds like Olly needs a bit of retraining as to what is and is not acceptable and to not be playing king of the castle. You now have a dog AND a bitch and this type of behavior can creep in if the dog thinks it is now 'his' bitch.

phenergen 25mg tablets, one should be good if not shove two down

oh derrr

aweful lot of mistakes how terrible and tragic ... absolutely disgusting

boiled rice, packet of coles mixed veg and some lean chicken carcasses drops weight off my lot in no time.

the neosporosis in your lab could have been a secondary infection or was the dog already on treatments for neo before the tests? if you are feeding human quality food I don't see the problem. Store it like you would your own and dont let the dog drag it around for long periods and on hot days. My dogs get human quality from the butcher as well as rabbits we hunt and eat ourselves, no one has had any problems.

has Pano and as stormie mentioned a joint fluid problem been ruled out? if he's whinging he has pain. labs a tough buggers and if he's whinging it hurts. I think you just have to look outside the box and most vets automatically jump at 'oh its a lab it must be HD/ED'. ETA if you havnt desexed already then don't. I would leave desexing until the very last thing, even till over 18 months if he has joint problems. fluctuating hormones isnt what a dog with problems needs at all.