Nekhbet

yes but do you have to wrestle the customer into a bathtub and then try and hold them in there, then stick them under a blow dryer while they're bouncing about I held a large dog once for a needle, the dog bounced up and I ended up at the osteo, on strong meds and a week off work you can't always talk a dog into submission like you would a person. And some dogs, if they dont want to well you can have 5 people and they still wont! They were not paid to obedience train your dog, they were paid to groom it. People dont ring tech support then keep you on the phone for 2-3 hours asking you to solve their personal problems as well as their tech problems? What would you tell them? Sorry sir/maam that is not my job

It is still cheap and if your dog was a handful they probably gave up instead of spending hours for that small amount of money trying to settle your dog. A pro groomer can not magically train your dog in a couple of hours - that is up to you to do. THe most they can do is try and wrestle the dog about which is 1) unsafe for them and 2) highly stressful for your animal. By this age she should be handlable, standing still and able to be groomed properly without wiggling. She's not a baby anymore and active is no excuse - I have a breed that can run rings around most other dogs and yet when she needs a groom, bath, nail grind, vet etc there is no issues it is done safely and quickly. I say enrol in obedience if you havnt already and start laying down some more rules for the dog. Start handling like you would a puppy every day and praise for calm behavior only never praise when she's over excited.

they are very rare and I dont see them every being for showing. THey are predominantly a working breed hence why when the OP said she's getting it as a pet I was a bit taken back. I would never recommend a dutchie as an average pet. The dogs are recognised in many other countries, but I think a lot of breeders would be loathe to hand out proper papers even if they were ANKC recognised (which happens with a few working breeders) so morons do not go out and perpetuate their lines and misbreed.

oh rottie has a system going. This came from when he was very ill and could not get up to go pee/eat so he had to let me know that he needed something first comes the stare. Then .. whiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiine WHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINE Diesel. Do you want hama (food) *does the Diesel Dance* ok let's get you some food. We have the same thing for toilet time. Pitiful long whines like some demented bird. If I'm in another room he'll come and get me if his whine is not loud enough to annoy me ;) Diesel do you want to go pish (pee outside) *does the Diesel dance and hops to the back door* Then he will bark to be let back inside, if the weather is nice he gets told to STFU and stay outside for some sunshine and exercise ;) I go against what I tell people but I dont care. He's got enough problems and can't hold his bladder as long as other dogs can so I'd rather he let me know.

ahh the poo trick goes like this bury the hole but put plenty of fresh poo just under the surface, just a very light coat of dirt on top. You can also get keep off crystals that are made of citronella How much exercise/mental stimulation is she getting too? Start feeding out of dog toys only, no feeding out of bowls. If you feed raw foods, freeze them in an icecream container full of water with a little juice or stock in it. rotate toys and have a play before/after you leave.

I think it's easier if you own your own dog (although I dont understand people doing a dog trainers course and never having owned a dog ... anyhoo) as you have spare kick in front of the telly time with them to slot some training in. A few things my dogs already knew so that wasn't too bad. The prac hours are very managable even with everything going on and if you're dog obsessed already, oh well whats a few more hours hanging around training centres with pooches!

Diesel is kicking at his elbows today. Boy he looked crap after I spent a week at mums for work this evening he got stuck lying down and cried and cried trying to get up I dont know. I know what you all are going through .. will they be better or worst today, tomorrow ...

dogs growl as part of their normal play vocabulary as well you're worried about aggression where there is none. Trust me I see all too many home diagnosed 'aggressive' dogs which are not in the slightest. At 10 weeks aggression is one in a million. Your dog is urinating, again it is not aggressive. See a vet then find a trainer who actually has up to date ideas about dogs that wont harm your pet.

oh Bozeku how terrible for you well wishes for Jordan

dyzney my rottie has that head now, due to all his health problems. He also has a crap immune system unfortunately he always retains that puppy look, not the boofy adult male rottie look he should have

corticosteroids - increase protein catabolism and reduce protein synthesis in long term use hence muscle wastage. There are large muscle groups all around the dogs skull, muscle wastage will shrink these and alter the outward shape of the head, not the skull itself ETA considering it's not a heavily used muscle in most domestic dogs that do not catch prey, tear animals to eat etc the muscle is not exercised and wastes more then the others

it has to do with the product itself Exelpet in the supermarket uses a permethrin, a synthetic pyrethrin (like in the daisy) which is HIGHLY toxic to cats but not dogs. Things like Advantage use a compound called Imidacloprid which has low toxicity in most animals except insects. A more effective compound then synthetic pyrethrins which I refuse to use.

yup depends on teh dog. I used to train up to 4 hours, with breaks in between. Each session was a few minutes, break then again depending how the dog went if it was lagging or not in the mood we didnt bother

if you have focus and control you need to start transferring them to on lead. It's conditioning. So start slow, have a long lead and do obedience work in your front yard/street and work from there.

keep her inside and get a cool coat or a cool mat and plenty of cool water and opportunity to urinate (another method of removing heat from the body) I would rather that then changing her already beautifully maintained coat. OK so she doesnt get to run around, do some mind games inside the house and just put your foot down

be CONSISTENT, PERSISTENT and remember dogs do not speak english or understand the human world fully - it is up to you to teach and lead them. oh and they dont magically grow out of annoying behaviors either ETA oh and socialise like there is no tomorrow for the next few weeks - people, cars, noises (even turn up the TV) and be regimented in your rules. A little more hard work here but it pays off for the rest of the dogs life

Dont feel horrible. He's playing you like a fiddle and getting what HE wants when he wants. I would stick to the royal canin, dont keep mixing the foods. Put it down, give him 5 minutes then nothing until dinner. No extra! Just a normal meal size, or miss out. Dogs can go quite a few days without food, but they do need water so keep it up. Also leave the room when he eats dont hover and create anxiety. Be happy, stop worrying he will eat when he's hungry enough.

I'd be more worried about the kelpie getting hurt! Do you have experience with Malinois or Dutch Shepherds? They're little hard arses I wouldnt panic And if you think the Kelpie is hypo ... make sure you work this dog or it will be beyond a handfull to say the least! They are rare and hard workers how did you end up with one!? separate in a run at the beginning and I would frankly be keeping the dog with you for the first few months to make sure it bonds to you properly instead of the other dog. Start training in drive with it early and I would be making a beeline to the nearest Schutzhund club ETA here is a breeder, if you need help I would be calling them first before average obedience clubs or trainers. Few people have experience with Malinois and dutchies here in Australia http://www.ck9sas.com.au/ see who they recommend down your way

they mate bum to bum they're Harlequin Bugs and they get EVERYWHERE! I always have a heap but they didnt attack my tomatoes last year thankfully and I dont use pesticide ... my grandmother on the other hand had a heap that attacked hers

I did it in Melb (not distance) and still had time for a full time job, part time job, dog training twice a week and sport. you can if you want to It is worth doing but I agree with Teebs, they can be slack so you have to push them.

royal canin maxi is the only one that is allergy free in this household and does well for any breed I have had. Only one I will buy now.

your dog is not aggressive it is in pain. And no puppy just flips like that. Get a thorough vet check, even visit a chiropractor. Stressfull situations will not cause that amount of anguish for hours on end, physical pain will. One of the other pups could have hurt her, you touched it, then the trainer pinned her while she was sore and stressed hence the urination. Aggressive dogs do not piss on themselves, sore or scared dogs do. Do not take up the lessons, I would get a good thorough vet check then find a behaviorist (Many people recommend Jane Harper up there I think) but your pup should get over it no worries.

http://leerburg.com/ebooks/puppygroundwork.pdf this is a start, his website is worth navigating through. http://leerburg.com/pdf/drivesofprotectiontraining.pdf this article although for protection, will help you understand what prey drive is in your dog. It is not aggression, toss the idiot that is teaching your puppy school. I am starting to see a large number of people who are supposedly 'qualified' (maybe on their own planet) teaching some rather disturbing things. If she thinks a prey drive puppy is 'aggressive' then she should not be going near another dog as that is a BASIC concept. anyhoo ... For the biting of people I still do the thumb under the tongue. Quick, effective and gets through to the dog. It's not a trick to not bite it's a fundamental concept the dog should learn the day it comes home. No dog that walks through my door mouths me past the first day, EVER. They learn quickly, efficiently and we have a mutual understanding from day dot as to my expectations and rules. Happy families after that With prey drive there are a couple of things - you can use it through toys and by that you take 'special' toys that only come out when you want to play. You tease the dog with it, get focus and use it as a reward. Tugs on a string are an idea, or at that age I take a tea towel, roll it up into a tight tube and use thick rubber bands to hold it together (one at each end and one in the middle) then tie a string to one end so you can't loose it. Also make two of them. etc when you want the puppy to come to you, wave the toy and excitedly 'COME COME COME ON YAAAAAAAAY' and as soon as the dog gets to you throw the toy in front of the pup, it will focus, grab and try to run off. Play a little game of tug of war then offer up the other toy and say 'OUT' or 'LEAVE'. The pup will grab the other toy and you play a little tug then offer up the other again and same thing 'OUT/LEAVE' whatever. Soon your dog will be focussing on the toy. Excellent! And it will be started on an out command which will be a precursor to shutting down prey drive so what you now do is when you say 'OUT' add a sit command in between. As soon as the dog settles into a sit 'YAAAAAAAAAAY GOOD DOG' and wave the toy about in its face to grab it. My dogs have also learned not to grab until I say they can or until something is thrown - so no nipped fingers in this household. Something simple like 'GRAB IT' 'GET IT' etc, just a precursor to the dog taking the prey toy will start conditioning it that it doesnt just jump at something to get satisfaction, it has to perform to get its prey drive fulfilled. You DONT reward nutty behavior. You reward as soon as the dog is calm and focussed. The stare is part of prey drive, hence why many people use it to get good focus. If the dog is bouncing, it is not concentrating so stand up and ignore it. When it shows signs of wanting to engage then start again. Short bits here and there for training not big long periods as most average pet pups dont have the attention span for it. Also prey work wears out the dogs mind, you will find the dog tires faster then just for average running about. I should make a youtube video of my Malinois as a puppy and as an adult.

if he wont eat he's not hungry so no food for quite a few hours beforehand if you want undivided attention. You also need to get the dog out and about more so the outside world is not so overriding and do little tricks whilst out. Not a full block but little bits here and there when he's in the mood. Sometimes it's just not the day and go home. Happens to all of us, you can be as revved up as you like and the dog is flat as a tack (another reason I used to do two dogs per training session, at least one was always ready to go) So you go off for a coffee and cake and write it off :D

ohhh no he's not meant to like it it is showing the dog that biting has unpleasant consequences! If he's giving up on biting you it means its working, it's not meant to hurt the dog merely just be unpleasant. Quickest way to ensure they stop as dogs will not continue a behavior that 1) doesnt get them something nice or 2) gets them something unpleasant every time they do it he will learn just like kids they take a little time and try your patience but its worth it in the end