Nekhbet

I know a lot of dogs that still squat. My grandparents JRT x Cattle dog still does and he's over 10, desexed late. Just doesnt. It doesnt matter if he does or doesnt cock his leg, other dogs don't care at all. I dont see why so many people get so wound up that their dog wont lift his leg and mark. Lifting the leg is about marking for territoriality not simply about toileting. My rottweiler will mark lifting his leg, or pee on all fours depending on the purpose of the wee and he's over 2 years old. A lot bigger things to worry about in a dog then whether it can mark or not.

It has more to do with the dogs attitude - he may never or he may pick it up from another dog. I have a bitch here that at 5 1/2 still does it ... don't be too excited it's only widdling

Aiden the OPs dog has to understand what a clicker is first. And trying to balance a clicker, food and straining dog can be difficult if your timing is not already perfect. chucknsteve I would just put him on a flat collar and retrain him how to walk and respect the leash. Start in your front yard and have reward he loves the most - either a toy or tiny bits of food. Make sure he's hungry if you're using food. Start walking, if the dog bolts ahead do a 180 degree turn and tiny little sharp tugs on the lead. Call the dog 'COME ON LETS GO, GOOD DOG' happily. when he follows 'GOOD BOY!!!' really happily and only praise when he's paying attention to you and happy/calm. Give him a treat when he's doing really well as a 'jackpot' of sorts. Make sure you are also using a longer lead, let the dog have some freedom as we are training the dog to CHOOSE you over the rest of the world. The trick is to IGNORE bad behavior and REWARD good. No verbal chastising! Now when he sees another dog as soon as he sees another dog watch your own body language. Don't stop and have the 'oh god here we go again' body language going If you can, turn and walk somewhere else, dont break stride and I want you to keep applying little tugs until he follows. They are not punishments we are interrupting his thought pattern and leading him to the alternative. He'll carry on etc just ignore it, keep the little tugs and just keep walking, don't stop. When he shows LESS attention to the other dog and MORE attention to you 'GOOD BOY COME ON! YAAAAY LETS GO' flood his brain with happy things, when he goes a super job BAM bit of food/toy. Just keep him moving, keep that brain moving and you too no stopping and you will see he will just follow. Don't drag the dog, simply sharp little tug tug tug tug until he turns from the other dog or stops lagging. A dog cannot pull against tugs, they can pull against dragging motions. Conversely if you have a lot of trouble give me a bell we can have this sorted in one session.

yup diet is a factor for yeast go for as little grains as possible and NO wheat. I use paw paw cream for outer ear yeasts and works like treat

by victorian law animals must not be in food preparation areas. So they are allowed IF the owners of the premises allow it in there and they are not handling, storing or preparing human food. So technically you are allowed to bring your dog into a cafe/restaurant dining area, but it is the business that says no to that.

Royal Canin Maxi or German Shepherd formula up the raw meaty edible bones to at least a couple of times a week, if she wont eat her dry food remove them completely until she does :D

because idiot salon owner probably went 'oh he's right' dogs should never be left unattended. Different if the owner was there holding the dog on a leash, no food. When we do therapy dog we NEVER allow our dogs to be unattended or leash out of our hands. If someone wants to walk the dog we have another lead for them to hold. It's a dog. I dont blame the parent, I blame the salon owner. It's a stressful place for an animal all day and to feed it there too - jeezus how stupid could you be. you leave your dog there unattended it is YOUR fault as the owner. Not the customers, YOURS. You have a duty of care to both dog and customer, who rightly so would assume that a dog that sits in the middle of a busy hair dressing salon is approachable and will not bite their child. If people come to my house with children there are heavy duty child/dog proof barriers and the back door is locked and key removed so there is no way out. It would be on my head if my dog bowled over a child - I wouldn't blame the parents, it would be me. If the child is rambunctious or trying to poke the dog then I would put the dog outside and tell the people 'OK they don't like children poking them so we'll take some time out from each other'. Simple and responsible.

it depends if the situation is causing her stress then lifting the flap for her to see will cause more barking - she is not happy and letting you know. Dog shows a stressful, smells, hormones etc and her locked in a crate where she has no choice but to sit and put up with it. Conversely she could be doing it because she wants to get her own way hence the eyeballing and barking back when told off. have you tried giving her a bone etc to keep her busy while she is in the crate and cover it up completely? Make the whole thing really nice and worth being interested in and not woofing

problems usually crop up when the younger reaches 18 months +, mature enough to hold their ground and behave like an adult. You have two closely aged dogs and if you dont make yourself supreme ruler then one of them will take it upon themselves to do it. Not saying it will, just that it is a high chance so keep an eye on things and nip anything in the bud as soon as you see it.

what does she do when she barks - is it a high pitched or a low bark, is she lying there and just barking or is it going bananas in the crate scratching/spinning etc

what breed

ahh yes the old 'but he went to puppy preschool!' a pity not more PPs are attached to bigger schools or have relationships with clubs so they progress straight from there to level 1

another big plus I ran one at a vet clinic years ago and the puppies went from 'this smells funny' to OMG THIS IS THE BEST PLACE EVER They all cam bounding in the door when they needed a vet visit

At the same time Helen people have to understand that both those sites you place are 'purely positive' and do not necessarily agree with e-collars, prong collars and even check chains. Some of the trainers may not agree with any physical punishment at all. If that is also the owners philosophy then go right ahead and choose the preschool with an experienced, logical trainer that can think on their feet. I also do not like the letter from the apdt website that pushes that prongs remain banned in Victoria. It is a well respected piece of equipment around the world and has saved many a dog from being too much for its owner. We're backward enough in this state when it comes to how we treat our dogs and how little we appreciate working breeds and their needs without letters like that. Not saying any of this equipment should be used on a young pup but for people to understand what their puppy preschool trainer believes in and what methods they refuse to use. I would rather a person with an all round understanding then someone who only utilises one corner of overall dog training methods - a dog is living creature with its little quirks and you have to be flexible enough to say 'ok well this one needs ***** because other things are not working well enough for this dog or the owners capabilities'. ETA I try and get clients to do more work in the 8-12 week period then wait and try and cram it in (when they eventually remember) 12-14 weeks. SOme dogs start teething after this and they're cranky anyway

I also just noticed you have two bitches keep an eye on them that when they're mature they dont get antsy and start fighting. Routine, rules and allow no slack when you have to dogs closely aged of the same sex.

I think puppy preschools are extremely valuable and everyone with a pup should attend. That way any problems or gap in the knowledge are caught early and people understand what they have actually gotten themselves into and what they need to do saying that I have heard some absolutely idiotic and dangerous things come from puppy preschools. Throwing cans towards pups, scuffing and roughly pinning, smacking pups etc or conversely not telling puppies off at all, allowing mouthing etc how is the average jo meant to know what is a good preschool and what is not? If it has a big flashy sign or its in a big shop/vet clinic they trust the trainer to know what they're on about.

My belgian no worries, she listened even if she didnt like it. THe dogue threw a pink fit then say there was treats and got over it. Rottie threw a tantrum but I'd probably get poo pooed for how I got him over it

you should wait until she is finished. During season there is swelling, a lot of bloodflow to the area and vascularisation. It makes it more difficult for vet and dog. Frankly I would wait until she is finished completely, everything back to normal for a week or two then take her.

I was just thinking that any puppy should be used to a dog barking. OK a car backfiring, whipper snipper for the first time thats a bit left wing, but another dog? That or startling a lot is not a nerve I want in any pup I buy. Yes they will shy, but my dogs even as littlun's did it once then got over it and even showed curiosity. But to startle, startle, startle shows you will have to do a little more work with the dog as it's exposure has either been low or it has a weaker nerve for loud and new noises.

they are all quite young and if you have parvo on the property the vaccine has sapped them all of their maternal antibodies no point parvo testing any vaccinated pup will turn up positive on a snap test, even a lab blood test. I know my own dog went through the same thing, vaccinated on a sunday and monday morning sick, then 3 weeks in hospital why are you not leaving the sick pup at the vet? A week listless is not good, why not on an IV under medical supervision? Quarentine all the other puppies, you may be cross contaminating between the litters and if the mother are going out into the yard together then they will drag things back to their pups. I too have to ask why you have 19 pups on the ground at once. And why are you treating them all with antibiotics - the dead puppies should be autopsied and the sick ones blood tests/cultures done. Parvo is a virus, antibiotics do little unless there is a secondary problem (which there usually is)

not too common but not unheard of in the smaller breeds I would check it isnt vaginitis or something else. If she is in season, wait until it's completely over to have her speyed. It's nothing to panic about just keep her locked up and any outside time have her on lead.

dont forget kabana and cooked hot dogs in teeny pieces .. just make sure puppahs hungry (although at that age aren't they all )

of all things I would not be happy with my new puppy startling at a dog barking. Maybe whining but not trying to bolt back. Maybe it's just me anyhoo, just help him along I'm sure you'll have him happily meandering past in no time! Dont forget MASSIVE rewards for being a good boy!

from a breeder or a rescue? If he's from a breeder I'd be getting my money back dont hold him up and cuddle, but teach him to cope little by little. If you have a calm dog already, perfect. Dont let him escape, start far away and reward him for ignoring the other dog barking, even do a little rewarding with your existing dog and the pup should follow. Never pander to fear it only increases it.

few people will even know what a dutch shepherd is let alone just buy one for the sake of it or as just a pet. If you are in the know you go to the right breeder and get what you want there as well as see the parents which you should do anyway. Some people are very antsy over their dogs lines. And some associations, like the GSDC, do not agree with or condone bitework. The ANKC does very little to help or promote pure working animals or sports like Schutzhund/IPO so many people throw up their hands and go whats the point. I know a few people with paperless Mals but can prattle off the dogs pedigree. Not for breeding just for Sch/work. Doesnt make a scrap of difference to them and didnt decrease the price of the Mal. ETA there is a breeder offering ANKC reg for their puppies