Nekhbet

err no. maybe they need to get their facts straight. I see no probs in adding glucosamine to a growing giant breed puppies food, have done it for my boys and it does make a world of difference especially to my HD/ED rottweiler. Oh well another vote from me to not purchase it

not saying that people have not split pipettes before on animals with no probs, just remember its an off label thing to do and if something happens it's on your head (eg under/over dosing etc) just saying it's not technically something that should be advised

well see there's your problem ... if you were wearing a skirt I'm sure the dog would have performed perfectly apologies on that one hehe

wow that's not very legal technically you are not allowed to sell the pippettes separately or use them like they are selling, it's off label use and if something goes wrong you have no recourse. As for writing their own instructions I'm sure Bayer will have something to say about that

he was probably thinking mum, you're a dufus that's not the right thing to do for that command gotta love em

so to you an hour a week for 4-5 weeks is acceptable socialisation for a pup during its critical period? Be sensible. Dont take your puppy to dog parks etc or where there is a lot of fecal matter. If it is a parvo season near you then yes dont go out where there is dog poo, dont play with dogs that spend a lot of time around dog clubs, beaches etc. Another reason I advocate taking the pup in a bag or carried about. They do need this exposure to noises, people, etc. Parvo can be carried in on shoes, clothing as well as on other puppies. The floors have been disinfected maybe but have all the corners, chairs etc. This is something that can drive you mad I socialised my Malinois on trains, the city, car, parks, people etc from the day I got her at 10 weeks. She's never had a sick day in her life (well there was a house break in but that was another story) but she did need that heavy socialisation at under 14 weeks of age. My rottweiler got parvo at 4 months of age - it was his poor breeding and bad immune system that was the problem not being taken out and about. We have had completely unvaccinated dogs pass through our clinic, picked up at 6 weeks, walk all over the place and not catch it. Not saying the risk isnt there it's just not something to justify locking up the dog for if you're sensible.

That's completely different and you know it. This is not a performance dog it's a pet. All dogs need to learn to walk on a loose leash. When you clip a leash on any dog I train they know that means loose lead walking, I teach it as a fact of life and the discussion ends there. If you want performance that is commanded by the owner, heeling is a different behavior from loose leash walking. Don't excuse a cop out with proper controlled training examples. The dog needs to learn to overall be less anxious and you want to let it do what it wants because it's easier. That solves nothing and in fact the dog will learn the behavior is becoming acceptable by the owner. Is this how you deal with too hard baskets? So if the dog was biting the owner would you 'oh let him bite you sometimes and we'll deal with it in small bursts'. No - high anxiety that is turning into menacing behavior towards other animals or people should not be allowed at all and there are ways to stop it dead.

OMG I'll take the raven and the frogmouth I love their faces!

sorry thats a cop out. If the process is that tedious and slow and ineffective then change method. My point is you cannot allow a dog to sometimes exhibit a behavior then other times not. The dog needs quality exercise not just rabble along then have a set training session. The dogs attention is low because I think the owner gives in a little too easily or the current method has taught the dog little. It should. The loose leash walking should directly be anxiety lowering as well as encompassing strategies to help cope with the fact other dogs exist in the world. Frankly the loose leash is a couple of minute work for even some of the most stubborn dogs, the dog problem will take longer but really I think the OP just needs to try something different with a different trainer. If the dogs behavior is NOT changing then no, your method is not working and you need to try something different. Your timing and voice might be right you're just not using it in a method that ends up making permanent changes to the dogs behavior.

THe dog needs manners and to settle anxiety. Not create a jeckyl and hyde situation. My Malinois will pull like a freight train on some equipment and behave lovely on the other. Can be a PITA sometimes I dont see how this will fix his anxiety around other dogs

he's nervous because he's confused and you shouted at him. Why did you shout? Deaf or not deaf you dont need to shout at a dog they simply panic or shut down. He also doesnt fully understand what 'arhhh' means so he continues. DOes it mean stop for a second, stop for 5, or stop completely? when he comes near you I do the old knee out routine - bump with the knee to let him know he's too close. As for zoomies just walk off if he's being a nut OR have some food in your hand. WHen he comes to you hold a bigger piece of food out at face height but at arms length. When he barrels at you wave it so he sees and he will head for that. Then SIT, calm dog gets fod, GOOD BOY, FREE! As for licking, just push him off. If he goes for your face again put your hand around his muzzle and just hold for a while until he gets the idea that licking is not on. you just have to be a little clearer and more consistant

I only meant I dont push the use of food first because there is more of a chance for some owners to become reliant on it and forget to change themselves. Yes dogs still need rewards I rather the owner learn to be a source of reward themselves through their behavior and body language with the dog and save the food as the icing on the cake. I want the owner to learn as well as the dog. some dogs I dont use food at all, stress is too high etc so I use equipment and verbal/physical rewards. You would be surprised how big an impact they have on the dog compared to food anyway.

I think when you stop making excuses for your dog the behavior will change. If you wont change, the dog will not. You shoot everything down and I dont understand then - we are offering you solutions. Aiden a PP one and me one that reduces you needing treats. So if the harness works what advice are you looking for? We cannot offer complete tailored solutions for a dog we cannot see and handle ourselves. how is he getting no exercise? I told you to actively take the dog for a walk and as well as his body his mind will be exercised quite well. The method I showed you actively takes the dog out and the more the better.

Id move up to a chicken wing when he gets used to it. 3 is plenty as a meal, dont forget there is also turkey necks and lamb flaps

they always seem to have supply problems - one of the original reasons I swapped to Royal Canin instead of it.

you dont need to soak your dogs food - I have had many breeds all on RC and no one has it soaked unless they are feeling ill or weak. I have no idea why anyone would do this ?! hmph interesting I feed RC and I also feed raw meaty bones, food scraps etc dogs are fairly resilient and edible bones are good for their teeth. If you feed large amounts of raw mince yes you are throwing out the balance but edible bones with some meat on them wont harm anything.

A dog can learn tricks and still be in general disobedient. Sitting for you food, high fiving, sitting on command etc is not an obedient dog. Unfortunately the dog learns to behave for that particular situation and as soon as its done BANG back to normal. How many times have I heard 'he's good at dog school'. I train for the lifestyle, that you have a happy, healthy pet that is obedience, managable and you have a close trusting relationship. I find a constant barrage of food for most mature dogs not the way to go to get that, especially headstrong ones. He can't be that difficult. He's learned to ignore you that's all. Hence why I put up popping on the leash. If he's running around, shorten the leash and wait until he settles, or keep it a little shorter and restrict his 'spaz zone' if he gets under your feet just shuffle him over with your food. NEVER smack your dog please. I never advocate that at all. But if he gets under you, push him aside gently. If he gets ahead of you turn around quickly and call him using a loud clear happy voice he cannot ignore. When I say ignore the bad, simply do not feed the behavior (sorry does sound a bit like stand there and do nothing!). So say he decides to go bananas. OK so turn around, pop pop pop pop pop and just keep walking. Don't say anything just keep walking and popping until he calms down THEN when he's paying attention 'GOOD DOG COME ON etc etc'. This is rewarding the good with attention from you. If he cannot walk nicely and is all over the place shorten the leash a little. When he settles give him a little more and praise for being a good dog. Super good walk BANG I want food in his mouth as soon as he's doing really really well. Food too often and for haphazard performance creates just that. It doesnt have to be competition obedience but every dog is capable of walking next to you on a loose leash. what you choose to do is up to you, Aiden and I have differing methods obviously. Like I said though I think you would benefit from a one on one session with a trainer and choose what works for the dog I'm willing to make a bet on that one

some dogs just have bad nerve and their breed will dictate how they react to the situation. His nerve is obviously not strong enough to hold the excitement/anxiety associated with other dogs. Very common and dont worry it can be fixed It just takes time and effort and make sure you keep up the work throughout the dogs life. Do it slowly and with the help of a good behaviorist

This is more the dog leading the handler behavior. Yes he is reward driven, fine, but he needs to EARN his rewards! Highly reward driven dogs learn very quickly. If you are needing to keep peaking his interest then like I said, the introduction of something to show, no you have to listen to me, like the little tugs are the way to go. But from the sounds of it are you are a reward based/purely positive only school? Training is about what works for the dog not what you prefer. If he needs something different give it a go. No point struggling and trying to undo more and more bad habits. And remember there is a difference between knowing tricks and being overall obedient. My rottweiler is capable of only a handfull of commands (he also has physical limitations) but his manners were more important to me first. No pushing, listen when I speak, no stealing, no pulling on the lead, no disobeying me. End of the line. I didnt force him I just structured his life like that and the dog accepts it pat and attention for good dog, no attention or even a correction for bad dog. The dog is simply teaching you to deal out of the food if you want him to listen - it's a version of human begging pretty common saw a german shepherd like that once but he also added snapping and grabbing the owners wrist when HE decided she wasnt dishing the rewards fast enough. Limit his chance to make a mistake and put yourself first - I want to go for a walk down the beach. Well you're staying on the lead if you like it or not, and if you carry on like a pork chop you'll get no attention from me at all until you do or even a little squirt with a water pistol for yapping at me. trust me just have faith in yourself and your convictions and he will eventually learn he has to listen to you

I dont care how magical a vet thinks they are you cannot correctly diagnose HD/ED with touch, especially in a large/giant growing puppy. They go through all sorts of phases as they grow so x-ray by someone experienced in the breed is the ONLY way to go if you are absolutely desperate and the dog is showing signs of needing it to be done to prevent suffering. Find a new vet, and by the siggy your dog is not too thin at all. I think the vet needs to go see what some sighthounds actually look like before making sweeping comments like they have to you and panic you.

call a professional, I agree with poodlefan. This dog needs proper behavior modification NOT punishment

I think in general you have to stop making excuses for the dog. He doesnt follow voice commands - why? Because he doesnt have to. THere are no repercussions for him. You need to sort this out before training him out of his problem. Do you know why I do not use purely positive based training for problems like this - because I am not training a trick. I am training 1) the dog is to see me as not only a leader but a source of great things (that does not mean a human treat pouch) and 2) there are repercussions to showing unwanted/bad behavior. We are not punishing the dog we are showing we do NOT accept this and this is the fabulous rewarded alternative, hence lowering anxiety and it works quickly. I usually have dogs quiet and walking alongside my own by the end of a session. I'm not saying reward based does not work - of course it does. But for a dog that already does not listen except if he thinks he's getting food you cannot just roll with what the dog wants. He needs overall lifestyle manners and to learn to listen and respect his owner, food based will not do that. I am not advocating hurting your dog in any way shape or form don't get me wrong. But like a spoiled child he just needs to learn a few manners And if he's part pomeranian he'll be quite a little prince if my mums boy is anything to go by

carry if she's a small/med breed - put her in a bag and take her everywhere you can plus car travel places where dogs do not really defecate often is perfect, so city/town, markets etc. Go to cafes, weekend markets, fetes, along the streets near shops etc as much as you can in the next 2-3 weeks

what do you mean by 'aggression' - I dont think he's aggressive I think he is showing an anxiety driven aggressive fear response. also if he is releasing his anal glands he has anxiety control issues. You need to be teaching him redirection behavior (ie I feel stressed so I look at my handler to be told what to do) not just punishing. It does not good as his anxiety is already high then he gets in trouble, plus you are removing him which to him is what he wants (you will find this enough reward for him to escalate his behavior). He needs to be taught to cope.

This is where i disagree, timing does make a difference. How can a dog learn when you are randomly rewarding different behaviors and at different times? Dogs learn faster when things are black and white not all mixed up. And why not charge the clicker first so the dog knows what the sound means - instant head turn and WOW I KNOW WHAT I"M GETTING FOR THAT! and if something is taking that many repetitions to make a difference I'd be changing methods. Yes there will also be some losses but should you not work to limit them to a handful with a method that is easy for dog and owner to do? To just keep clicking until the dog 'gets it' IMO is not doing anyone favours.