Nekhbet

Cesar's method has merit - now hear me out. What he does is a valid idea in beating aggressive responses - old fashioned yes. If the dog exhibits a behavior and is not successful it will not continue to exhibit that behavior, it will move to something that does gain it success. BUT you see - to make the dog not successful is incredibly dangerous no matter the size of the dog particularly when dealing with this type of behavior. I tell all my clients, don't pick a fight you cannot win, and 99.9% of physical fights you will come out second best no matter the size of the dog. Making a dog wait for it's food is really a 'trick', it has little to do in the causation of food aggression. This labrador seems to have more then just food aggression problems and I did agree, NEVER to be around children with that type of behavior.

The acts do not clear your dog biting if someone or something has trespassed. What it does do is give some wiggle room if an incident has occured. EG kid jumps your fence and dog nips him on the calf, no stitches required. Parents of the kid will probably get a talking too, you'll have the incident written down and everyone goes their separate ways. But the idea of excessive force still applies - if a kid jumps your fence and then requires reconstructive surgery to 3 limbs and half it's face then there is no reprieve. Yes your dog is not safe in it's own backyard. You do not put dangerous dog or 'beware of dog' signs on your fence as you are admitting your dog will probably cause a degree of harm (yes, and we all know any dog can bite etc etc but you get what I'm saying) I'm getting a little miffed as the new place we're moving to is behind my mums. She put up a beware of dog sign with a barking shepherd head on it after I told her a million times not to. Oh well the wind blew it off O_o. I have 7+ foot fences and the dogs are locked up when I'm not home. Your yard is not exempt in any way anymore.

oh crapola I can't make it this weekend Malinois would have loved it

Nope none of mine would ever roll over for a belly rub or crawl up to strangers. Even the big fairy Trigger would rather sit on you then roll over lol, it's always on their terms for attention. Handler sensitivity I would rate different to submission though, a mal pulling a face when you've roused it can come back at you with guns blazing no problems.

We are so old fashioned in this country as well. And we're behind in our training and knowledge. I see a lot of good dogs wasted and written off because our training and raising abilities in a lot of instances are inadequate. Too many people also put too much expectation on the dogs, get it done with shitful amounts of effort then blame the dog when it doesn't reach the unachievable.

Unless you've owned some really dominant, difficult dogs before I would not advocate you go out and buy one of these. They're banned for a reason. Get yourself some experience with a dog happy to correct you with a big set of teeth before just going on looks.

If by submissive you mean jam their heads into peoples laps and hands nudging for a pat NOW then yes lol none of mine would every roll over for anyone. I don't think I've ever seen many submissive to other dogs either unless we're talking young pup to some harder, older dogs. Malinois tend to be racists and breedists from what I've seen over the years. They warm to new things slowly, if at all. I think by far the safest thing if you meet a Malinois is follow the owners direction and always ask first. Calm and quiet in public, absolutely, but not all are teddy bears by a long shot particularly if you invade their personal space. It's a very one sided relationship ... they can invade yours, you don't invade theirs :laugh:

I'm not condeming a whole area, it's the people that come with the territory a lot of the time. When I was doing it I couldn't avoid them unfortunately so that's why I left it behind - that and watching people consider beating a foal with a truck chain acceptable put me off. Plenty of people I know still into horses and dressage that are not like that at all but I like peace and quiet :laugh: it's also why I stay out of a lot of group dog things, plenty of nice people but a few idiots that make it misery. My comment was at the other comment of horses with scars down the side - spurs for the sake of the idiot thinking they're awesome and not being used properly to improve performance and communicate with the horse. I have my own horse as well who knows dressage but is not fit enough to make a good go of it, and I would like to get back into it one day as a hobby. I loved it and still do :)

Right at the top of the neck of the dog it IS more sensitive - that is why methods like Cesar Milan and dominant dog collars work. When hiked up right under the chin they put pressure on the trachea, throat, thyroid and major blood vessels to the brain. You can cut the air off very quickly with one movement and it's still a way to deal with aggressive dogs that want to take your arm off or their targets. It's where the fallacy of the correction chain being a 'choke' collar comes from despite not being used for that reason. It's a method not advocated for the inexperienced as it can potentially cause harm in the dog. The point is to apply gentle, constant pressure until the dog stops it's aggressive response then release the pressure as a reward. Normal collars and correction chains are meant to be used at the base of the neck where there is heavy muscling and fat coverage. If you feel an adult dogs neck you will feel a good muscle layer, they're meant to have that area well built to be able to function (historically) in fighting, hunting, tearing up food etc. Smaller and 'novel' breeds shall we say (take that as far removed from their more wild counterparts) may very well require different equipment due to a now changed anatomy. Most smallies do not grow decent muscle in that area and hence have little cushioning against very small amounts of pressure. Also young puppies you do not allow to pull for the same reason. If you look at jobs like bitework there are two options - agitation collars which are very wide and thick, or agitation harnesses. Both are made to spread the pressure over the equipment and prevent long term injury from repetitive actions. As for agitation harnesses I think they're the best harness by far. Very well padded, thick, perfectly fitted to allow natural movement of the dog without any interference. I also prefer leather to synthetic materials in most of my equipment. As for spurs, don't get me started on that one. Jabbing and tearing an animals skin to make yourself feel like a hero, frothy mouthed, pulled in head dressage horses makes me mad. It's why I left dressage behind a long time ago, I couldn't stand what was acceptable to do to an animal in the name of glory. Cruelty is cruelty, in dogs, horses, etc. No fancy name will dress it up as anything else. I've seen some supposedly positive people more abusive towards their animals then those who correct their dogs instead.

I'm calling shite here. I've seen working dogs hit collars again and again for years, they live into their teens quite happily. Dont slam the dog around on the collar or rip it's head off, but normal use I have never seen harm caused.

Sent you a private message :D

get rid of the black hawk, it makes them podgy on very little. If you're worried about vitamins get something like the VAN health booster powder to fill the gaps and you can use foods like tinned fish, lean mince, cottage cheese etc for protein with the veg. Also feed her in the morning at least, and a little at night like a raw carrot to chew on. I find raw strips the weight faster, increases activity and you will find you will be feeding her a lot more once the weight strips off :)

I agree with Cosmolo, it may be due to frustration. There's plenty of people who can be recommended from this forum or Cosmolo, myself etc depending which area you're in

That's probably the bigger factor here. Don't forget too some dogs are not used to drinking, I take electrolytes for high exercise days

It's always worth getting help, even if they need permanent separation. The OP needs advice on what's going on, why it's happening and to understand his dogs better so they don't dig out or chew through the run to tear each other a new one if he's got no control over them anyway.

Their laws and incessant paranoia with dogs is nowhere like ours. The dogs still have to go through an adoption suitability test first though, and remember not all MWD's are bite dogs, some are explosives detection.

Swap her onto beef. COuld just be the weather, could just be her not feeling up to it at the moment. But I don't use chicken for the working dogs they run out of puff too quickly IMO

No RAAF dogs were too high a liability. Look at our dog laws especially in Victoria. The training they have done is serious work, serious living, it's not schutzhund where they grab a sleeve. These dogs have been on hidden equipment and are trained to hang onto an offender come hell or high water. A dog like that there is not that many homes available able to handle them. If our dog laws were different and if we allowed more dogsports there would be more civilians out there able to look after our precious working dogs.

It's all about leverage BC, and engaging the brain. There's really no mysticism in training :) What does the animal love? Them show them how to gain it. Plus don't be afraid to help them out physically. We taught Bear that with a piece of licorice, just get him to follow the licorice down and pull one leg back gently so he got the idea. I had a super crazy idea I'm going to try and teach the horse Schutzhund He has a bad pelvis and ringbone in his front leg from racing which makes riding him difficult long term, so I'm figuiring why can't he do something like that ... He can already heel, back up, stop, pivot, bow etc without being on lead how hard could it possible be to get him to search a few blinds let's see the Victorian government kick up a stink about that one

Depends what you can cope with as well in the house. I was speaking to OH about it last night and he recommended a little staffordshire bull terrier :laugh: any dog that is a companion breed and you see that instant head over heels bond with your son. As much as they have hair pomeranians and chihuahuas are clingy little dogs, happy to bark and very intelligent. You want to see if the dog has a natural curiosity and intelligence, it can be as easy as hiding a bit of food under a blanket and seeing if the dog is willing to keep going until it finds it. A dog that gives up easily or can't be bothered may be a little more difficult to be motivated. I know they would use swabs from low blood sugar as the body would be producing ketones, that really distinct smell they get on their breath as they would be training a dog in general not on a single person. You could take swabs from your son as well, you can grab a couple of specimen plastic jars from the doctor and you keep it in there. Sterile gauze is a good medium to start on you just have to watch for cross contamination. If you're willing to try I don't see why you couldn't get somewhere. I'll see if I can hit on anyone in WA that has scent detection experience that can help you. Message me what area you're in and I'll see what I can do for you :)

I love derailed threads :laugh: I give you ... OH teaching his horse to bow

It's never too late ;) and cut back the food right royaly, you can start with just searching for tasty tid bits around a park, shopping centre garden, town centre etc (yes, you too can look batshit insane like me) as the start. There's no loss in it, everything is a learning experience. You can buy the best pup in the world but without some sort of experience and mistake making process you can get nill result from that one too. Come on, give it a go :p even the kelpie can do it. If I can get a spaniel x poodle to do manic car searches within an hour I reckon your dogs can do it. This little critter was a ball of curly haired fury, very useful size though could squeeze right in under the wheel arches and find things in there :laugh:

We're going rogue on SAR :laugh: OH got a little, shall we say disillusioned with SARDA chapter down here so we're just training on our own and we shall offer SAR dogs to SES or DP dogs to others who want to dip into the civilian pool. So far a clients white shep has succeeded almost 400m track/trail and over hard surface between parkland and industrial estate. He's doing it all for an inch piece of hotdog would you believe. So proud of the two of them it's incredible to watch :)

I know I'm onto them too (Don't tell Mina and Scooby ) I said to OH now we have even sides! One dark Mal each, one tan mal each and a black squishy dog each ... POKEMON BATTLES! Still trying to figure out how to get Malinois into pokeballs without losing life threatening amounts of blood

Sexual maturity is hell time for most people with multiple dogs. Keep them separated and I would call a behaviorist in ASAP to help you manage them. Try Petresortsaustralia.com.au if you're close, but permanent separation may be on the cards. They don't call them bitches for nothing