Nekhbet

you need to desex them and start giving them some one on one time in order to get control over your dogs. As you see, you do not really exist to them they have bonded to each other and probably only see you humans as the source of food, toys and cuddles on demand. With most puppies they will spend the first couple of weeks working out whats what, trying out the pack and then slipping themselves into the spot they see as theirs. You got two of obviously fairly similar personality and hence as they mature they spat (just like teenagers :D) If you do not have crates, buy some ASAP. Also dont bother with the yelling and smacking you just razz them up even further. Separate quietly and put them away until they settle. Do not leave high value items or food about that they can fight over at the moment until a professional comes in. I will be in Melbourne this week, CBD Tuesday afternoon/evening if you need a consultation. Apart from that I do go all over Vic for consults any time, I dont know about other people on the forum going to Docklands ;)

I think a lot of public attitude stunts our ability to work our dogs hunting is cruel bitework is bad herding clubs are rare as hens teeth etc etc We dont have the opportunities and culture a lot of the other countries do where people would pack the dogs for a weekend hunt, keep dogs to protect or keep the property clear of vermin etc. It's nice to see a dog out working the way it was bred to, and doing well in it too. More breed clubs should be running events on a regular basis to get their breeders and owners involved in breed specific activities to help perpetuate the idea that some breeds are more then just lap dogs and there are many things you can do with them!

since our genetic proof of breed is very unreliable, why is it required? Pedigree papers would be a better option then a very shoddy breed test Tiny sample size cannot undo damage when the media unleash their BS. This tiny sample size makes me think this whole thing is rather invalid anyway PLUS the previous training/life of the dog is really not being taken into consideration DNA ... plus ONE form of temperament test ... what does that spell to you ...

If you're anti BSL you realise how much environment impacts as well as Genetics. I agree with Lilli on this one. Taking supposedly perfect examples in will do little. I'm sure if the right person pushed Saki she might take a chomp and then what ... Pure Akita DNA with a 'Bites Humans' mark next to it. No dog is perfect. It is an animal not a car. Doing a study on how genetics impact on behavior does little since we dont really know which genes are the 'happy' genes, 'aggressive' genes etc. We will assume that 'happy' dogs show these markers, 'aggressive' dogs show these markers etc and like I said coincidence can play in this. As for the actual test ... it can be flawed. Training can go a long way... I know of a fully protection trained dog that passed a PP temp test with flying colours and they never knew it's true training. Does that mean the dog had great genetics or was the trainer and handler just a great combo that did a great job?

crib stop in a pot, you paint it onto items. Also rotate toys and only feed him out of his toys for a while. Move whatever you cannot be bothered smothering in bitterent or you value. He's an active, intelligent dog. Your SO should be more understanding then fix it or out. Conversely lock him in a room for 8+ hours with no TV, radio, internet or books and let him see what it's like to be bored

kelpies and other working breeds will bark a lot more then others he's simply expressing desire for attention. You keep redirecting or ignoring and he will stop, it always gets a little worst before it sinks in ;)

no I have met vets that still believe big marrow bones are the only safe ones. I met a dental specialist who told me outright edible bones do nothing for teeth and that toothpaste, greenies etc is superior. Righto. I should have brought all 3 dogs in to show him their sparkling teeth and none of them have seen greenies or toothbrushes before.

exactly. As for a genetic link to behavior and personality this could be very open to coincidence. As for variation within a breed, well that too is open to how the pups are raised, is there any incidents that could shape long term behaviors during critical period etc. As far as I am concerned this will end with tears no matter what the intentions in the first place are. If you want a study as to how to get the best family pet why not follow puppies and how they are raised, then evaluate. No intervention or suggestions for the family and see how their behaviors are. A well raised and trained pit bull, rottie, GSD etc can make a better family pet then a spoiled, unsocialised and untrained supposedly 'family friendly' breed, any trainer will tell you that. The working dog survey was originally meant to be about creating standards for how working dogs were kept and used while working. Turns out a rather scathing article was written that working people were 'cruel' etc because of how many people used E-collars and it was written (let's say assumed because no mention was made in the survey of how do you use equipment) that all of them simply shocked their dogs into submission. Also comments were by the scientist that was one of the major participants - he too obviously had no clue as to their use and he got an email from many people about the article and the further miseducation it spread about useful equipment.

those cats look more like happy ho-ho-homicide

I'm just cheap I dont like seeing dogs poop out what I've paid for

run far far away ... the working dog survey backfired big time ... Why would this one be any different. hmmm DNA test breed and look at personality. Do you want to give the government fuel for scientifically proven BSL?

ahh yeah manure is a delicacy ... block him off from it I agree with Erny keep an eye from him. Where did you get the pup from breeder or pet store? Biting you have to nip in the bud, it will last as long as you allow it. I find just walking off, or saving that the old thumb under the tongue and hold on until the dog starts giving in. Just gentle pressure and hold through the tanty, then walk off. They learn biting is completely unpleasant. When the crate is shut, it's shut. Ignore completely. Schnauzers can be pushy you have to be very strict with what you want, and completely ignore any attempts at attention from the dog (unless he's desperate for a wee that is )

yup - stop taking 3rd hand advice dogs are meant to eat soft bones like those in wings and carcasses. My dogs eat whole rabbits head and all and no problems! The trick is to introduce slowly on things like necks that are very soft and then graduate up. Dogs that have lived on highly processed diets can have problems as they tend to have 'lazy guts' as I call it, the guts have adjusted to sloppy no work food and hence raw food can cause abdominal pain etc or if they dont know how to chew it properly. Big bones like lamb shanks, marrow bones etc are not made to be swallowed but things like lamb flaps, chicken carcasses etc are. ETA nutro, Royal Canin and Eagle pack are the ones I usually recommend, Pro Plan has way to high a grain content and poor ingredient quality for the price.

that is why you purchase a good large/giant breed puppy made for that sized breed. Yes larger breeds should grow slowly as their growth plates close and bones harden later then the tinyer breeds. So a massive heavy dog on soft puppy bones = problems. I dont use VAN it's just dry veges and massive amounts of grains which I see pooped out whole. Some people swear by it I think it has more to do with the quality of the protein source you use then the VAN.

I agree unless its proper pet mince like carcasses dont worry about it. It may be also very rich for his little stomach particularly if it's red meat If he's on a good dry food ditch the mince and maybe start giving him a chicken neck or two supervised as a midday meal or evening snack get him used to chewing

why dont you use a prong - such a bi9g strong dog will just pull straight through harnesses especially if his pain threshold and excitement are through the roof if they're such poor owners why is surrender such a bad option - suggest a rescue or someone who will put the time in if the poor thing just spends its life on a chain, which is by the way not legal.

that's good supervised interaction is always best. You be the one who tells the pup off or just separate them and let her calm down a little before playing again. Even if its a lot of on lead time with the other dog and stepping in the moment things get too rough. Give them big toys so they can play tug with each other, encourage them to play with toys with each other (so get them both to tug at the same time while you hold it etc) She will be a rough player if she's anything like my Mals personality Spend a lot of one on one time with her now while she's young. As for bite inhibition dont be afraid to really nip it in the bud with her especially if you are not going to do any dogsport like schutzhund with her. Exposure to some older dogs will be beneficial as your kelpie is only still a pup herself, some older confident dogs are the way to go

you have a dutch shepherd and they can be quite rough players. You have to teach her how to play and behave as it's not something they can just 'outgrow'. You have to mould your pups future behavior and make sure you socialise heavily with other dogs. You also have two bitches I would be desexing both as soon as possible Have you contacted that breeder I recommended?

train about her letting go giver her a toy, hang onto it then offer her another when she's playing saying OUT when she releases give her the other. The trick is to show her that she is not losing the toy permanently but will get it again. Soon you will have super fast outs, I taught my dogs like this and it really works with little effort.

what training courses have you done? Have you seen a behaviorist or have you simply been to dog school. Chows are unique and they need a special type of owner. I have met one that reduced its pregnant owner to tears. It was highly aggressive and frankly I would be wary rehoming. If the dog has anxiety, it needs someone that has handled chows, aggression and anxiety problems. Have you considered building him a separate area and managing him instead of rehoming? At such an advanced age and with problems he may really blow up. I know its not nice to think about but euthanasia is another option if you speak to chow people and rehoming becomes very difficult. I will tell you one thing be wary with rehoming. If you have a large dog that has problems and a set of teeth to back it up then choose VERY carefully. So many people go the 'oh poor dog I can handle it' and in reality they cannot. If they have not managed, trained or rehabilitated aggressive dogs before then dont bother.

what breed and how old, when did you get him and was he always like this? And what have the behaviorists offered in way of trying to work on him offering alternative behaviors if he feels stressed? Have you also tried not being around when he has his nails clipped? Sounds like a lot more work needs to be done, the trick is to try and find the right way to go about teaching him it's not a big deal. OK so he now feels the need to pull big reactions for small things. So the trick is to work on one thing at a time and start teaching him 1) his reactions are unwarranted and 2) he doesnt react because there is no need to. A combination of confidence and raising obedience level that he soon realises YOU dictate him, not his automatic reaction dictating it and then you trying to pin him down. Sort of like trying to push all that clothing back into the overstuffed suitcase, it can never go back properly if overstuffed

christ look at those legs! She's a regular super model! And such a nice coat too

a lot of butchers throw it straight in the bin as too many people ask for the old marrow bones pigs heads are also another thing to consider, cut in half, lamb necks/spine, lamb ribcages etc you may have to ask the butcher in advance as they usually chuck it straight into the bone bin

I posted in the other one

ginger tablets from the chemist, or a little ginger digest tea from supermarket works a treat, and make sure the dog can see outside and there is fresh air in the car/air con