Nekhbet

shmurps the best place to start is to go around and read all the backs of packets/bottles. Sounds a bit silly BUT you will get to know the products, their uses, what NOT to use them for etc it's the easiest way to start. Then progress to company websites etc Then come to DOL for further clarification and instruction

because then they miss out on shopping at the marking, sharing a cooked breakfast at the uptown eatery, helping you fish at night time and playing flabba jabba with their jowls while their heads are out the car windows dogs are not lawn ornament. They're pack animals who want to share and experience the world with you.

funny then they offer 'retail traineeships' AKA you work for slave money ... did I say that out loud yup education is not valued anymore, neither is customer service. I make it a mission to punish stupidity when I'm out and about ... makes some people get a clue

I think if a Mal is too active then a BRT would be as well Looking foreward to my first purchase of at least one in a couple of years time

I used hoppers crossing vet a couple of times when I lived there and actually would never recommend them. I had my dogs leg gashed open, I rushed her there before 5 and had cash in hand to pay for full stitch up on the spot... the vet refused as it was too late in the day, charged me $70 to bandage the dog and NO analgesia then packed me off to Lort Smith where by then she had started foaming and going into shock from pain. His alternative was to leave her bandaged in a cage unattended in the clinic and he would get to it the next day sometime. Oh the cherry on top was to write a letter to Lort Smith saying my dog was some nutty 'guard dog' that 'owner says will bite staff' ... all because I muzzled her while he poked and prodded the big flap of skin hanging off her. I used Yarraville Village Animals Hospital (Dr Rhonda Dunmill) when I really needed something. I found her worth the drive, then again I never needed anything really desperate done.

I would be using a flat collar and a really light lead instead of something that tightens at the moment. She just might find it weird that the lead tightens as it pulls As for the stand etc, take it easy. The pup is only 3 months old! Slowly but surely she'll get it I think most of all relax, you seem to be worrying an aweful lot pups are pretty robust little creatures dont be afraid to help the pup into a drop, stand etc and just keep repeating until it clicks.

prey med-getting into high for her med-high for him ... aye tis a thing to behold here's one for you ... she was in med drive here ... tricky tricky and a ferret in high prey drive

Corvus I believe in punishment WHEN NEEDED before desexing a dog because we can't be bothered being responsible enough to make sure accidents dont happen. A dog with fear aggression simply corrected - well bad bad bad trainer. It is the fact a fearful dog was not shown the alternative behavior and encouraged to be confident and happy that it probably snowballed OR the corrections were too low/applied after the behavior had escalated. I use things like DD collars, correction chains etc with SOME dogs that show fear aggression to settle them down enough that you can actually train them something else. The method Diablo mentioned is for severely aggressive animals that are about to explode uncontrollably. Simply tighten (not until the dog goes blue of course) but just enough pressure you see the dog no longer cares about the target but what is going on. You ignore the dog while you do it - then you release, command, and pat for calming down. Works well and quickly BUT it has to be the right dog and nothing else works. Although there are some morons out there who think this means stringing the dog up literally ... no it's simply a constant pressure that sets off a switch in the dogs brain - calm down or the pressure wont go away. By the way it has no ill effects on the dog if done properly and followed up with the right training. No dog should be only corrected ... NO DONT DO THAT ... OK then what? A panicking brain having its only method of anxiety release taken away is doomed for an explosion. If you do use corrections you SHOULD follow them up with focus, reward and praise when you show the dog what is wanted. THat is how all training should be. The reason I use corrections is I find the dog learns that behaivior is a definate no no while I'm teaching it, sometimes the praise goes so far but you need the extra incentive of - OK if you do decide to run at that dog there will be a consequence'.

you can use it monthly, it is a very safe drug I did it with Diesel but he was one of the ones that it didnt work on !

It's only there for legal reasons - it says not suitable for human consumption, IE it was never invented for people to eat it as a food source so if you DO eat it and get a sick stomach you have to recourse There is nothing unsafe in dog foods, it's just made for dogs not people. But because people these days are as thick as two short planks we need to put warnings on things so companies cano cover themselves in case of stupidity. As for weird offal bits, ducks and chooks feet OMG

yeegads common sense still exists!

start with no more then 2-3 seconds and then extend by a second for the moment. Give him more chances of winning you will find he will be more compliant and eventually extending the time will be easier.

take her out on a leash and practice that she sits and settles before she goes outside. Sounds like it is the local critters exciting her

puppies and dogs up the ante - she's trying harder and harder to prevent you from 'winning' the situation. All breeds will do it. There are many professional trainers here who regularly offer help, we usually ask which area so we can know who to recommend to you If you dont feel comfortable we all have websites you can access. She is growling in play. Just very rough play! I think her 'respect' for your dad more comes from him being a male, not that he's physically bigger. When the pup bites, get up and stop all play dont get physical with her as it is not working and you are creating more bad habits. When she settles, give her a pat and start play again. If she yelped from a scruffing it is probably more a reaction to make you let go unless you are being very rough, but most pups are quite resilient. What you can also do is put a bitter spray on your hand and when the pup goes for a nip also growl 'grr NO' and it will associate nipping with unpleasant tastes. If you really get stuck give one of us a call for a consult ;) Most puppy schools can only go so far with behavior.

I didnt say it was. My comments were in relation to dogs being punished and supposedly being severely affected for immense periods of time from one correction. so if he never got fed unless he had to do a behavior for it he would starve himself to death because you're not fun enough? Maybe you misunderstood my post. If your dog does not value something highly enough then you remove all other sources of it and make him work for what little he gets. Quality over quantity. Because you dish it out so easily. He gets excited because he probably knows the tide of favourite treats will come forth with with only him having to show a little more interest in you. a dog is not a hare. A hare is a solitary creature, wild animal with a strong instinct to bolt for self preservation which you are trying to override with some food - it doesnt work that effectively. A domestic dog on the other hand is an animal bred for multiple generations with desired characteristics and then raised around humans. I will tell you punishments work with wild animals as well, rabbits that have hit ferreters nets often enough will learn to stop at the hole, flip up the net and bolt off safe. Wild animals have a self preservation instict first and foremost. My other comments for wild animals still stand - they are still not suppressing the instincts they are conditioning tricks in the animals on the animals terms. If the walrus never wanted to comply, they would never have forced him. If the antelope never wanted to go into the crush for a blood test they would never have taught it. It comes to finding the right animal with a biddable personality. Not every antelope will be taught that trick, there are many zoo animals that are simply left to their own devices because they cannot or will not be taught with simply P+ training. as for people with the 'different' breeds I do own a Malinois and have trained several of the 'different' breeds. You want sensitive, try a Mal. What a stranger does to your dog, that is not what I'm talking about. If you have a good relationship with your dog they bounce back, they wont 'hold it against' you. Sure, I made mistakes with my Malinois, heck even completely turned her training on its head and taught her different behaviors for similar commands to retrain her for a different discipline. Does she treat me like a leper? Nope. She has always stuck to me like glue, all my dogs do no matter what the breed. It's your attitude that makes or breaks, and wether your dog will treat you like a numpty after an incident irrespective of the breed. Imagine the days before all these modern techniques and when discipline was with a big stick or a boot to the bum... I'm sure any sooking or scuttling dog would have been sent off or left to starve out on its own as a stray.

yes they are individuals, but coming from another perpective weak nerve is not a trait some people see as favourable yet it is becoming more and more common. Lack of resilience, over reaction etc are highly indesirable traits in any breed. I try to sift through those actually weak in the nerve, and those simply perceived that way by their owners and hence behavior snowballs

And people need to credit their dogs a little more resilience. We all make mistakes in training but a dog can be trained out of the mistake or glance it off. It's making it sound like you're going to ruin your dog from one action. If it's not enough, be logical enough to increase. If you accidentally go to far, fix it. We seem to be dancing about our dogs a little too much as if they will be emotionally traumatised for life from one big correction. If you know your dog you know what is enough for them and what works. As for frustration I think more people need to work through it. If a dog shows frustration and unwillingness to continue learning or putting in effort, cut them off from the food source. Why do it on the dogs terms? less food less often, I wouldnt bother feeding him out of a bowl if this is the method you want to use to train him. He has to appreciate you more not throw a tanty because it doesnt come in the quantities he desires. You'll probably find his enthusiasm for food and training will go up as well, hungry dogs learn a heck of a lot faster. As for training zoo and wild animals - these are not domestic dogs. Zoo keepers cannot and do not want to suppress the natural instincts of the animal like we do (so it's OK for lion to munch on human)

I never had smelly carpet. I hired out the Britex machine and every 3-4 months washed the carpets myself with the shampoo that came with it, then went over it with just plain very hot water. Came up like new, no smell and pulled all the stains out too trick is not to drown it in the water but to do the whole process slowly. Only takes under a day for a big 3bdr house and it's dry when you're done if you use very hot water

if you PM me the details - I have time free and I travel as long as the heat is not too much You can contact the resue org but I have found unless they have dog behavior experience many will not know what to do. Sounds like poor settling in coupled with some old bad habits

when you're talking young puppies and dogs sometimes its better then letting them possibly get worst. I'm in the same boat as you, minimal meds, but youngun's I've learned my lesson on. Sometime too there is not an effective natural remedy to what we have commercially available. +1 on this one ... if you notice her gums starting to pale slightly, CRT increase, lethargy etc straight back to the vet for IV fluids CRT = capillary refill time. When you press your dogs gum it will go white. If it takes more then a couple of seconds for the colour to return then your dog is dehydrated/very low blood pressure and needs a vet.

Be honest with the breeder - remember she has a breed that is notoriously puppy farmed and backyard bred she's just ensuring her precious pups dont end up down that road. and if I was breeding I would have a contract like hers too so see it from her point of view. If you just keep the lines of communication open, tell her you would simply like to see him mature a little before he has his janglers whipped out and that she's free to pop round anytime to see how he's going (within reason of course, he's still your dog ) then she shouldnt have a problem.

which one did you use? I used the innotek on even the most annoying of barkers and they soon understood when the stim got high enough that they were to stop. If your dog is barking at or through the collar time to re-evalutate the dog, reason for barking and if you need a stronger collar.

chasing is prey drive in a form. You have to teach a puppy to focus on toys etc it doesnt come naturally in most dogs. He has prey drive as well as some herding instinct (remember he's more a herding breed then a guarding breed which will want to actually grab hold of the item) Put a rag on a line, run with it and encourage him to chase it. He will get the drift as you go along it is something to play tug with then you can change it over to other toys. Chewing on kongs etc is not prey drive. If he's not interested then feed him only out of the kong, he's probably not hungry enough to hold his attention for that long

Bones perforate bowels when 1) they are not chewed properly and are swallowed in massive pieces or 2) the dog does not have enough stomach acid to digest it properly. Dogs on highly processed diets tend to have this second problem. I start these dogs off with minced frames added to the diet and watch the poo to check for constipation. Then you progress to a higher and higher proportion gradually to the diet to let the digestive system adjust to having to now work on real food not just mush or kibble. Also you buy bones in proportion to your dog - if it swallows things whole then you buy bigger, meatier cuts that it is forced to chew. Just watch marrow bones they offer little more then pure fat to the dog.