Nekhbet

There are different lines in rotties, and in a lot of other breeds as well. You don't go for something bred specifically for sport/protection as they want something 'a little more'. There are plenty of breeders out there with dogs that can be quiet, med-lower in energy but will still act as a deterrent. There are plenty of great guard dogs out there that don't really want to chase a ball for hours, it's two separate drives in a dog. I think go check out some good rottie breeders, I know of Rakaaz down here in Vic who have lovely dogs, will def guard not a problem. A dog is still a dog, no matter the size or type they all need training ;) And I can tell you this is the position most commonly found for Rottweilers ... lounging somewhere near their owners :laugh:

Yeah but let me guess, even if you don't understand the hand gestures and volume get the point across :laugh: OH started training our younger bitch in Russian, so now she's trilingual. Makes command refusal easy, most people can't pronounce her commands properly. Dogs are incredibly perceptive animals. They're smarter then you think, and pick up on body language, tone and individual differences to know what you want from them, not just a blanket set of base commands.

Yes but it's still a living creature with a mind of it's own. They can still have bad days, be in pain, injure themselves during testing etc. Even the best dogs can just up and put in a bad performance. I know my dogs will work, heck one's had a rib cracked and kept going, another shredded her face just going in to retrieve a toy. Malinois ... the messy breed :laugh:

And I'm talking from a European perspective, which they take their dog sports a lot more seriously. Of course there are always dogs out there competing that don't go into almost perfect scores and ride the scrape through marks or averages. It's why pass rates are not set at 99% or majority would fail. But if you want to go on and achieve SCH3 and you find your dog doesn't have the nerve to pass a basic test, well you know you're going to be pushing the proverbial up hill for no result, and the dog will probably not enjoy most of the process. If you paid say, $2000+ for a propspective good dog, and it couldn't do the job you wanted it to do, yes, many people would onsell it to something more suitable if their primary aim is trialling. It's not fair on the dog to live in a home it's not suited too and a lot of people do not have the resources to just keep a dog that they can't do anything with. Saying that there are breeders that will take the dog back if not suited to the position you have wanted it for, give you a full refund too. That's faith in your breeding. It's no different to purchasing a breeding dog, finding it has shit hips and elbows and asking the breeder for a refund because the dog cannot fulfil the function it was purchased for. Sounds blunt, but that's reality. Many dogs are trialled, titled and then moved on as well. Plenty of people do that here in Australia with show and sport dogs as well it's just seen as a no no by the general public. Once again there are parts of the test that you cannot train. Let's say the gun test, of course you need to expose your dog to gunfire because 99% of dogs exposed to a noise like that for the very first time are going to swing around in a WTF moment. But a dog with poor nerve will never cope with a whip snapped right above its ear or a gun fired over its head. It just cant hold itself together to cope with it. These tests are not about routines, but about reactions to situations. Dogs are surprised, exposed to random and erratic behaviors and done in places they are not used to. You can prepare a dog so far for that type of testing but you rely on genetics to do the rest. I'll give you an example, the male dog I have was tested with a whip. They cracked the whip over his head while he was taking a drink, there was no flinching or pausing. He looked sideways in acknowledgement of someone there but it didn't phase him one bit. Far from being deaf or stuffing his ears with cotton wool, genetics did the work on that one. I think because we don't see or use a lot of tests like this in Australia we can't really grasp their full function. They're not just about obedience routines in a set pattern, they're made to be unpredictable to a degree to see the natural reaction of the dog when under stress and not under full cues from the handler. Any dog can trot around in a set pattern time and time again, but this is throwing in the proverbial firecracker to see what the instincts say to do. Fight, flight, or go to sleep :laugh:

Here in Australia it's not about breeding, and frankly it's why we're surrounded by so many below standard animals and keep breeding them. There is a different mentality in Europe then there is here - people spend good money on a dog and for their own pride too do exercises like this. No you can't do the test until 12 months of age but the dog needs to mature and you need to do the groundwork to get it there. The MH tests have clubs that help people train and socialise, it's not just something you rock up to out of the blue and see what happens. Is it nerve racking to have your dog tested? Hell yeah. I had my own bitch critiqued by two trainers from the Netherlands and you do think will all that time and effort have been worth it. But if you've done the work with the dog and have the genetics behind you, there's the reward at the end of it. Where do you think the super part comes from? If that could be trained in there would be no need for character tests. You can't train some things into a dog. Strength of nerve, courage, stability are genetic traits. Yes you can ruin a good dog to a degree, and build up a half arsed one with skill of course. But most dog sports are also still testing those genetic traits, even SCH. You can't train any old dog to go bite a sleeve with a full mouth, grip the decoy and hang on for grim death. If it's not in the dog, it wont come no matter how hard you try.

Start learning Russian :laugh: you can have two sets of commands, but when you teach it say both words at once and keep repeating them. The dog can understand, my grandparents speak to my dogs in Jugoslav, and I use both Jugoslav and English in their training.

Schutzhund titles are compulsory for GSDs in Germany, and the point of dogsports were as a method of evaluation. Where these assessments and sports happen is a lot different mindset then here in Australia where 4 legs and a heartbeat is enough to breed a dog. ANyone can write an assessment for a dog that you want to breed/sell and make it sound fantastic, but an unbiased opinion is the validation. Even for sportdogs, wouldn't you want to see that you got what you paid for? Most people go training at least 3-4 days a week for some dogsports, I know for KNPV most guys are at training 5 times a week to prepare.

It's called Filta-Clear, and there is an antibacterial version called Filta-Bac, it's made by Ceva who own Nature Vet brand

You have to be happy with the dog. If you're heart is with the CD then you have to be happy with the decision you make as to which dog is more suitable to you and your situation.

BH isn't much, even IPO isn't worth much anymore for a lot of services considering the availability of other methods of testing that far surpass SCH/IPO. We're starting Civilian Companion down here and even for the pet dogs that is more the BH. The Mental Health description is a fabulous idea, it's real life scenarios and situations that test the dogs temperament to it's limits. That's what you want to see when breeding, they still believe highly in the importance of the dogs temperament and how that affects future breedings. It's also graded and critiqued so the reports are available. http://www.darlingpaws.se/en/stella/mh-mental-description-3757320

Far from it. Fighting and instigating conflict is not an exclusively hormone driven behavior in the slightest. The border collie was also named as the initial instigator of the fighting and now the CD is jack of it. Not surprised. I'd be more onto the BC as the problem child not the CD despite him being the potentially stronger of the two. I think the more far reaching problem here is the BC. Call the breeder and ask about why the temperament has gone south and is such fight prevalent in their lines. If you got it from a backyard breeder that can explain some of the temperament. I've seen anti social BCs, they do exist. Not every BC is a roll over softy and some are instigators and finishers of some good fights. Let me guess, the border is inside and the CD outside? That too can account for the BC growling and lunging through the door - he's all big and brave defending 'his' territory. You need to get on top of this dog ASAP, he should not be doing this at all through the door no matter what is out there. I think you're throwing problem child status on the wrong dog. Separate and get a proper assessment of the dogs.

Head to Fireax and Monelite for what you want. One of my dog schoolers is a 60 year old lady with a young fireax bitch, fabulous dog, very social, healthy and good stable temperament.

I'm seeing a lot of ridgies lately that are afraid of their own farts let alone act as any kind of guard dog. Yes they will bark but its out of sheer stress and fear, and they're ready to bolt. I would get a rottweiler. Perfect family dog, but I would say get a male. Leave him entire, don't desex him and get him from good lines. Males are a bit quieter then females but the territorial instinct to ward people off is there. They're also extremely loyal, great with kids, very tolerant and will follow you to the ends of the earth. Also not too drivey or whingy. As for a guard dog, that is not a dog that 'attacks' on command. That is a personal protection dog, and they are trained to defend in a controlled manner on specific areas and hold the offender with their grip. A protection dog does not chew up a person like an untrained 'attack. A guard dog is a dog that will ward off intruders with their presence and defensive behavior, and if pushed into confrontation will provide some defense to themselves. Then you have manstoppers, dogs trained to go for the more delicate areas such as face, neck and chest.

actually that deformity in cats is recognised, it's not due to age of the mother it's usually due to inbreeding. It's called Radial Hypoplasia and a woman in the USA was actually breeding them on purpose I found iodine to be the most useful, slather it on and keep it free from dirt. It soaks into the skin, I use it myself for the same reason.

I used betadine in the little squeezy tube for my bordeaux and malaseb wash to wipe it down with if it was dirty. He had bad pimples when I got him as a pup from stress but it cleared up :)

I think it's a little different when you're right under the nose of a dog trainer :laugh: Very good dual purpose as well, I've noticed you can teach them a couple of things with a high training load and they cope fine with it. I've got a rescue we've turned into a SAR, she ground scents as well as trails which is awesome.

I agree amax now everyone wants one as theyre the new fashion. Bad nerve and inability to hold the drive is also something ive seen and wont touch in my own dogs. My pups wont be going to private buyers as theyre not lines i would hand over to just anyone due to the temperament and potential.

calcium carbonate increases the pH, it delivers a carbonate ion which reacts with hydrochloric acid to create CO2, water and calcium chloride. It is used as an antacid and it's in garden lime. It's different from other forms of calcium which are used in the body. Saying that excess calcium in reasonable doses just comes out the back end so it wont cause that many problems in that respect. Problem is if you use it you increase the stomach pH, which can cause more problems as you're binding up all the Hydrochloric Acid that starts the breakdown of fats and proteins. It also produces carbon dioxide which is a gas. Not what you want. The stomach will be affected the wrong way, if you think there is a yeast infection in the intestines get a fecal sample and see what's coming out there.

lookup the other Leerburg stuff there's usually torrents.I have some of Ed's stuff and also Michael Ellis, he has plenty on YouTube

https://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/breeders/tatra-shepherd-dog.asp http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/breeders/bluetick-coonhound.asp

Thrashing is the dog trying to regain prey movement in the object to keep themselves stimulated an increase their drive. Remember, prey drive can be a bit like a drug ... once they learn how good it is they want more and more, so the dog will thrash on the item when you hold it still in order to keep the 'game' going. If you watch protection videos you see some dogs when they grip will thrash when the decoy is motionless, like 'come on you bastard get moving'. The minute the decoy does move you see the dog go in again harder as the movement has taken the prey on an upward peak again. Extreme example but easy to find on the interwebs :p If the dog has the toy and thrashing that's self satisfying behavior. That's meaning a 'moment' for lack of the better word between the dog and the prey item. You're not in the picture. So don't let the dog go self reward if you want it to be obsessed over the game with you ;) otherwise it's only the object and that makes your progress slower. Drive training is nothing more then using a conditioned object to help the dog be better rewarded FROM you in a manner it inherently understands. Saying prey in dogs is better then food is not true. Food is still a drive, and in some dogs a higher drive then prey objects. I still use food for fine tuning and luring the dog, especially when we're trying to get super tight positions then when it's conditioned switch the dog to prey IF that's what it has also concurrently been built on, or loves anyway. I find it very effective and also the dog won't come down from it's prey peak, as prey drive peaks and drops much faster then with using food. I've used food for training a couple of dogs for agility. Then I make the owner be super duper happy and excited and running through to get the food and a super happy excited reaction from the owner works :) My school does lazy agility too, we have taught the dogs the equipment so the owners don't have to run around too much :laugh: they point and command dog does it. Some of the clients cannot run that fast but the dog can, why miss out :laugh: not for comps just fun stuff but it works

I know full well the tenacity of a pomeranian ... when one is attached to your boob ala police dog style you learn how quick and how confident they can be ... 10 year old dog with some teeth missing too O_o I tell you if they were about 25kg they would wipe the floor with a lot of guarding breeds

The right training method is what works for the dog :) I can tell you that it's not uncommon in Poms for this behavior to crop up, mums is similar and he's happy to bite (rescue ... don't ask) I think your problem more stems from allowing the behavior to roll on and skirting the issue. She went ballistic, so you removed her from the situation instead of confronting the behavior. So, she learned act like a loon and you will make that thing go away. Whatever her reason for disliking things I don't know because I cannot see the dog :p But from the others I have seen it's down to an overactive guarding behavior they have and they're loud about it! The best method of it is to teach her how you want her to behave. You need to find something that is highly rewarding be that affection, food, toy etc and use it as a lever. If she's not food driven then don't feed her unless you're out for a walk... leverage. Hunger will take over. It's about retraining her, you dont behave like X you behave like Y and I will heavily reward you for it. The tricky part is the pom is a tiny dog that cannot really tolerate a physical correction like most other breeds so you have to be quick and outsmart the dog. If she wants to go ballistic walk her up and down until she focuses back on you, then reward. Dont want to walk? Pull her by a harness until she follows. Don't be embaressed she needs distance exposure and she has to get over it. When she's ready to listen she will be rewarded, until then we march up and down like crazies :laugh: Tiny dogs like poms cannot go into head halters and correction chains they have no muscle around the neck to cushion so a plain harness is fine. Looks embaressing, yes, but it will work. It's about persistence, they're tenacious little dogs so you have to be patient. Run me an email if you like, and some videos too and I can get you a bit of a plan going for her :) [email protected]

Bitework tugs can be difficult for some dogs to understand. Remember a prey reward item is something you condition the dog to SEE as an object to use to gain reward between yourself and the dog. You can buy all the stuff in the world but as you see, he's running on instinct as to what is comfortable for him to gain reward through. Drive towards objects are built, you condition the dog through training to see the object as a potential prey item. That goes for everything from tugs, toys to a human being depending what you're training. We have bred dogs with modified forms of the prey pattern which is stalk - chase - catch - kill. Retrievers have the chase - catch modified to make the dog enjoy running out after the birds and modify the catch to be soft. Herders on the other hand have the stalk - chase component upped and the catch - kill component almost gone from them. Tugs too can be confrontational for dogs to use. It's why you start and build them up, many dogs can find the resistance of a tug toy too much for them and spit it out or not grip. Perfectly normal, there's nothing wrong with your dog it's genetics is going WHOAH YOU'RE SQUISHING THE BIRD! whereas the soft, thin stuff is really easy and light. I start with polar fleece as its easy to grip, no funny taste and little resistance so it's super easy and super fun for the dogs not bred for that. The one thing you dont want to encourage too much of is thrashing. Thrashing too much is an erratic behavior. It's a dog that's trying to make the prey item move to incite further prey drive within itself - and it means it's attaching the reward value to the interaction between the toy and itself, not the toy and YOU which it's meant to be about. It's why your dog also took the toy and went away from you putting it between it's paws. The game is toy - dog, not dog - you. The toy should have stuff all value if you're not using it to interact with the dog.

OH will want this one on the gate for sure :laugh: