Nekhbet

These are very close to CBD, offer accomodation and have 250 plus dinner seated event space Albert By The Lake Phone: 1300 656 399 Mobile: 0408 233 300 Bayview Eden Melbourne 6 Queens Road Melb Bayview on the Park 52 Queens Street Melbourne CQ Functions 113 Queen Street Melbourne Bell City Event Centre/Rydges Bell City 215 Bell Street Preston (20 min to city, 15 min from airport) http://www.thevenuezone.com.au try this website

I think personally you should invest in a good behviorist to come around and help you. They can properly assess the behavior and implement some behavior modification that can help your dog problems like this are a little complicated for the internet at times particularly when you deal with fear.

The dog is not brindle in the photo. Amazing how we cannot recognise what an original GSD looks like. My grandfather had one like that, black and tan, in Jugoslavia. THe first Schutzhund trials for the new GSD started around the time of that photo. Having a purebreed dog in europe is a treasure and mostly it would have been purebreed. eg Roland born 1903 Rolands maternal GrandSire V Horand von Grafrath The breed today looks like nothing Max von Stephanitz created. By the photo and text you can see what angles he had in mind when he created the breed too. THese days liberal interpretations have created a dog that is totally unrecognisable. eta for those who say it looks like a kelpie ... actually it looks nothing like. THe legs, face, muzzle, ear set etc. It's a GSD.

Yes I too do not believe in unnecessary chemicals. Many dogs these days get flead monthly, wormed 3 monthly, vaccinated yearly, heartwormed, shampood, chemicals in the foods etc then remember the chemicals also in the products, flea products are mostly a solvent it's a lot for a body to take. These are products made to kill another organism, and although the biological receptors in a dog may be different to the target species can we REALLY guarentee no long term harm? What about the other chemicals within? Some chemicals are also not completely non toxic, they only are in large doses .. well can we prove no harm comes from long term small dose use? Allergies, cancers and other conditions are becoming more and more prevelant in dogs. There are alternatives, in fact I fixed my rotties allergies and pain with less vet visits and more brain work. Instead of being a moulting, red raw itching cripple he now shines, has healthy skin, never scratches, the yeasts in his ears are gone and he runs about happily. We're too chemical happy these days I think for animals and people.

methinks I need to take a trip to adelaide with my dogue and malinois

you. me. carpark. now.

I know why the grooming school would have a few bad marks against its name. I knew Nicky for a while, dont have anything to say against her from what I have seen, but of course when you're heavily in any show/grooming world the uglies rear their heads. Had people whisper about her and the school but frankly I dont go on gossip. I think people are better to go see and make up their own minds then take a few rumours as the standard.

OK I've been roped in be lovely to meet you all and give HUGE hugs of congrats for the nominations and wins yay countdown

I love Coopers face .. "this is not the kelpie you're looking for ... move along' (ala Obi-Wan Kenobi style )

There is a difference between corrections and abuse. That person does not train dogs, he abuses them. As for Keohler, that is an overly liberal interpretation of his works. If someone did that to my dog now they would be in hospital, probably from me AND my dog. I have had my bitch punched in the head once. First private lesson, she would not drop on first command so the trainer punched her in the top of the head and yelled 'DROP'... apparently that is how you assert your leadership. At 6 years old she still has an element of mistrust dropping around strange people. Mmmm professional. mmhmm. I teach at a club now, I saw an owner smack her dog on the face for snapping at another. I do not accept that and will not. She was politely told if her dog was fearful, had another dog too close whilst on lead remove it do not smack it. I will give corrrection when required, but random beatings are not on.

same rules for everyone is always the key. Some dogs not used to sharing or change can be a little anxious so make sure the pup is not simply getting free reign. I keep my new pups/dog separate from the existing dogs for at least a week or two (limited, supervised interaction is OK) and then start short stints together. This way 1) pup bonds to me much much more then the other dog and 2) all interactions in the transition period go smoothly and they learn from the start neither is a big deal. I would start taking them on lead together, even doing some basic obedience for food together. The pup will also learn from your sibe. Play is OK, natural and a way for them to form boundries with each other and learn body language. If there is a huge size difference between them (ie small breed puppy) then I would have the sibe on lead (that does not mean tethered) so you can control interaction and she doesnt accidentally squish the pup. But as always if someone gets too boistrous break it up, time out for a bit until they're calm and then play again.

Be nice if people actually clicked on the links before making assumptions. I like Its A Dog Shop, have used them before and if you see the breeders section it has registered breeders who choose to advertise on there. They dont sell puppies and never have.

why would you rehome a dog that lives 10 years plus to a then 84 year old person ... unless they plan on being fit and energetic until 100 + how is this logical at all. Is there no forthought what would happen to the dog when she passes or becomes to frail? Considering how much energy a working dog needs too lazy in their opinion can still be too much for a family particularly if it is from police kennels. Again was it not matched? Tell them to speak to the local Schutzhund clubs or Shutzhund Australia so the poor thing has a chance at a half decent home particularly if she has working bloodlines. I should be surprised but for some reason I'm not.

well fitted correction chain on the beagle, martingale collar on the cav. Start walking then around the backyard first I think time has taken it's toll and you're in no state to walk the dogs. They're not listening to you at all hence the competition who is to get ahead. If they run ahead, stop and let them correct themselves. You'll probably get a surprised 'YELP!' but it wont hurt them. Time to put the foot down if this is to succeed. - walk with a purpose, and dont worry too much about where the dogs are going, you walk at your pace and dont let them sway you - dont walk two dogs with massive long leads, you'll get tangled - if they shoot ahead turn around, let them self correct and call them to follow you. They'll soon learn shooting around is not worth it - if they walk nicely, praise should be enough. Praise also for watching you of their own accord remember cement the good behaviors when they come - If you can wrangle in someone to help you that would be good too, two dogs walking together BUT one person per dog to save your arms - remember dont slow or stop ... this is the dog controlling the walk. I dont care how big the dog is no dog stops me when I walk them, I say how fast, when to go, stop, sniff and pee. Comes with time but it is perfectly possible for any dog

she's stressed, the new addition is a bit much for her obviously she should be fine if you introduce them slowly

OMG that is awesome ... hmmm couldnt be THAT hard to make really *mind ticks over*

use following method - tether dogs far apart, and I mean quite far - each dog sits and waits for it's food, no one is fed until they are both quiet - feed the dogs, and when they are finished remove the bowls completely, wait for them to calm down, praise and do a gentle release (ie dont razz them up) What you gradually do is as the dogs relax more, move them slowly closer and closer. NEVER tether and allow them to be able to touch nose to nose! You need to make sure you are rewarding for calm behavior, and I mean really chilled out. DO not punish or shout at them if they are excited, just wait until they're both quiet on their tethers and then it's food time. What you are teaching the dogs is 1) both dogs have the same rules 2) blocking the stealing option 3) to eat with the other one around but conditioning the behavior you want around food 4) The food and bowls are yours to control, not the dogs

are you sure she learned it off the older dog? I've seen a couple of borders exactly like this, came from poor genetics and socialisation as a pup. She sounds highly anxious when food or articles are around. Before continuing you need to address this problem. Yes work on focus but I would be working with her at a distance from the other dogs. IF she lunges, fail, start exercise again. Maybe a small correction when she goes out to lunge (not verbal) with a martingale would help as well. When she's focussed, praise and food as jackpot. If she lunges, correct, start the exercise again and only speak to her when she's behaving. Letting her play with other well behaved dogs would be a big help as well, she'll be put in her place. As for the cat at home, Be very very careful she could cause it some injury. Do not let her get away with this behavior at all. You need to start owning the food and articles more, not her. If she lunges at home verbally correct command her to sit. If she breaks, verbal correct and resit until her arse is glued to the ground. I have a method for food problems in another thread I'll find you the link.

you can only do so much to an ear. You cant fix the actual set but you can help retain the shape it should be during teething. I dont see that as cheating at all why spoil a good dog. A clever groomer can alter the look of the dog, trimming feet and nails can also have more then just a grooming purpose Many things can be hidden in the show ring and until the day that even touching the dog is banned before it enters well we hope they just fall under a smart enough judge that can see the tricks.

If you're going to the easter show head down to the Dogue de Bordeaux section A little bigger then you are thinking but a great loving breed, SHOULD be great in public (if the breeder has shy dogs avoid at all costs) are massive tarts but will guard. And a really low maintenance coat. My boy is happy by himself all day chewing a bone, as long as he's with you when you're home. Most of what you ask comes from training. Personally I think you would be better with something a little older then a new pup. There are older dogs available from breeders as well, best thing is you know the personality, any problems, and the training is done for you. Puppies are a lot of hard work and if you both have to work at lesast 40 hours a week well ... those situation often turn into bored destructo pups or owners tearing their hair out. http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/mature...les-spaniel.asp http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/mature...tan-spaniel.asp the breed pages have heaps of breeders, info and club links As for rescue disasters ... too many people let their hearts lead before their heads. Personally, take a dog from a foster home, dont be afraid to say the dog is not suitable and DONT feel sorry for an animal and take it home, then try and deal with the impending disaster. If the dog has problems that you do not want to deal with, dont take it. If you are 1% not sure dont take it. Ask many questions to see IF the dog is suitable really for your lifestyle (and I get a bit sus of when someone says 'oh he's so quiet' while the dog boings about like a sugar hit toddler) http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/63076 http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/67037 http://www.staffyrescue.org.au/ http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/61574 http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/64097 http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/62693 http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/58413 http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/63366 http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/57653 http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/66514 (sorry go a bit mad on pet rescue )

making her sleep outside will teach her absolutely nothing at all. Maybe there is something new, someone now going to work at that hour that she hears or a cat etc and you let her out and then she just goes back to the old pattern of 'well I'm out, nothing here, maybe mum wants to feed me' Just tell her to be quiet if she doesnt need to pee or to go back to bed etc

I've found that if a dog is focussed on the bark first then toys wont distract. Settle the barking and have toys about the dog will stop, a large 6 month old is fine to have something like an innotek bark collar on. As for barking for attention, he needs to be ignored and sounds like the owners need to be a little tougher with him. IF he has GSD in him he could also have weak nerve, a bit of husky means he is a talker and you get a really quick to talk dog. Also look at the dogs diet. If he's on a highly artificial colour/flavour diet or very high protein diet change it.

err I think they meant depression as in genetic, not emotional Fuanulos

No I spoke to the rep and she said it is def not irradiated

yup ignore they crying completely, dont even look at him. They have to learn to be separate otherwise you will have a hell of a time later if one has to go to the vet etc and the other will scream or tear the house. Feed the alone one out of a toy when the other comes in the house. They will have to pay attention to what you have given them when they get hungry enough yes it's hard work, but it will work in the end If you have kids, they're basically the same. the more you give in the harder they get down the track so put your foot down when its something you really dont want to perpetuate