Nekhbet

Thanks nev you made the point I tried to in 4 posts I know I wished at least BH was a prerequisite for Australian Shepherds. Involves no bitework so I dont see what the problem is. I think to be called a shepherd you should need more then just pedigree papers.

if you're a vet nurse i'm sure you're frustrated by people who you give advice too adn they only do 60% of it. You've done that. This forum is one of hte few that tries to maintain the pedigree purebred ethics. If your vet is NOT qulified then having a simple x-ray is not enough you should know that. They need to be scored properly. By the way do your dogs breeders know you have bred them? Most breeders are NOT happy having their stock involved in unregistered breeding. I dont know why you just didnt go one step further and did everything properly since you 'apparently' tried so hard.

they're different disciplines with different aims, tests and outcomes. If you were in Germany and you wanted a dog to breed with you would pass all your relevent testing (like many do by 18mo-2yo) then go from there.

you're going backwards, most shepherds would have their sch1 title by breeding age, not at like 3 or 4 years old. Minimum age for Sch3 is 18months old. It is not that difficult to transfer sch to then go onto ringsport, like I said most a dominated by other breeds just as an example the entry level Brevet test in french ring is 12 months, you have to pass this before going onto Ring 1 oh also adding ringsport does not have a tracking component, so technically its not the right breed test/

sorry Nev I know I just cleared up previous comments relating to the level of Sch required. Its 1 not 3. I put the full list of SV requirements above it relating to health, show and sch.

OK this will explain the SV system for people http://home.flash.net/~astroman/requirements.html you only need to pass the BH then Sch1 in order to breed. Ringsport, not really a shepherd thing. Ringsport is pretty much Malinois/dutch shep dominated. THere is nothing stopping someone taking a young Sch1 dog further into ringsport, but if that is your thing most people I have seen go straight past the GSD unless they are from very capable lines. You underestimate the difficulty of ringsport compared to IPO/Sch. Ringsport blows it straight out of the water. Most notably bites are not limited to sleeve like Sch. Here is Belgian Ringsport KNPV (dutch) Mondioring (which is like a hybrid of other ringsports and sch) French Ring

yes well professionalism extends into sometimes what you dont say. Writing a blog having a good ribbing about how bad another organisation is in their perspective, to me is simply horrible. I wouldnt bother with anyone with that attitude - not everyone can solve everything and the best trainers are the ones that accept their limitations or open their minds, not pick on other people on the internet.

leave a nice bowl of his favourite food at the top and let him work it out for himself. Give him coping skills. Dogs tend to make a game of it too, if he cant hack it he can stay down there until he does.

this means they are trained with live animals and are allowed to kill (hence the old phallacy if you let a dog taste blood it will become vicious) the natural movement of the prey animal and the satisfaction of a real lure caught and killed can increase the dogs prey drive and motivation.

My bitch still does especially when we go to dog school, mark over everyone else :rolleyes: It's not a problem, its normal dog behavior. Just control his marking and limit it to when he really needs to pee. I have 2 males here and neither just mark when we go on walks because they have been taught not too. If I give the command off they go for a sniff and a pee

Better off importing one of your own if I was in your position.

At his age he needs to grow up a bit. You need to increase his obedience, especially the sit command. If he doesnt know what that is yet work on it. Have some food in your pocket, if he goes to mouthe your hand put the food (something nice and smelly like cabana) in your closed fist, put it at just below his nose level and firmly say sit. If he wont help him into position. When he sits give him a second saying "GOOD" then open your palm so he licks the food off. If he goes to mouth your hand just give a little AHH and move it back slightly. Let him use his brain ... hmmm I want a reward so what do I have to do to get it... Reward calm behavior and the dog will gravitate towards that which gets him results. Labs are a mouthy breed. If he really gets too much I remove my hands completely and 'AHH NO'. COnsequence. If you have trouble, contact Mark Singer in Adelaide http://caninetraining.com.au/ I wouldnt take my dog anywhere that puts us a whole blogg bagging out another local dog training school. A bit arrogent.

congratulations he's becoming sexually mature And yes that will happen nads in or not. Reign him in and get focus back there is no need for his behavior

bedazzled I am not saying it is the only way BUT if the OP is trying to use a check chain at least use it properly. You should be using rewards. This clip shows at least how the chain is not for dragging but for popping.

no the ethical nutrients liquid is much stronger then capsules. One capful is enough for my 50kg rottie

Not a good enough excuse for me. If that is the issue then they should have purchased clear health score dogs in the first place and import semen for clear dogs to help the lines here survive not drive them into the ground PARTICULARLY when I assume the price of the pups would be quite a lot.

capsules have human dosages on the side, dogs tend to need higher doses then we do. Whenever you start a supplement you need to start on a higher loading dose for a couple of weeks then drop down to a maintenance dosage.

fish oil is simply omega oils, cod liver oil contains a lot of Vitamin D which you can overdose on. I dont bother with capsules for a dog its not enough, Ethical Nutrients super strength liquid fish oil I found is much more effective.

how do you feed them, separate or together? What happens if you put him within view of a few dogs that are great eaters (not allow them to wander over) but either tethered or crated near each other so they can see. A little competition can induce feeding behavior I would also introduce an eat command when the dog is eating, encourage him to eat and see if you can build enough momentum in the word that he automatically takes food. If my dogs wont eat their veges, and sometimes that is all I could afford to feed them, I told them to eat and they did. Didnt like it but they did. Apart from that then make some satin balls up and if he gets ribby push a couple down his throat if he starts looking bad. Alfalfa and ginger can be used as an appetite stimulant it should be available in capsule form. Either that or get some Vit B supplementation into him, there are dog and horse products available.

omg stormie your sig has me in stitches

if you are finding a check chain difficult maybe you are not using it properly. Here is a quick video on the proper use of a chain can I just say instead of correction with that prolonged drag she does I do a quicker jerk. If the dog shoots ahead do a 180 and walk in the opposite direction If you want to use a nylon cord it has to 1) sit high, just under the jawline and be a smaller size, barely any extra, ring to sit under the chin 2) not have the dog on a long line, you hold it on a short lead 3) you do not YANK you simply apply pressure until the dog has settled, pause, focus, reward. although this is something a professional should really show you if you are not confident with dog training.

went to a talk with Dr Bruce Syme, he recommends Tri Plex anti worm formula. Its a herbal wormout liquid http://www.organicsaustraliaonline.com.au/prod4295.htm

dogs are with people the moment they are born, we mould them to be companion animals. We touch them, talk to them, they smell us all the time, then we feed them, socialise them etc. We take over the role of their mother - sort of like hand rearing baby birds who then become more bonded to their human then to other birds and lose some wild bird traits. I can tell you I have seen dogs untouched by humans until 8 weeks and they act completely differently to your normal puppy. WOlf pups again are not raised with human contact, they are not TAUGHT to be reliant on people for everything. THose dogs and pups not raised around people did not immediately rely on the owner, they worked things out for themselves, and you could see the detatchment. They went to the owner for a treat like a dispenser, yet they were just so independent. I think if you want a valid study raise some domestic dogs out with wolves and see if they fare any better. Or raise some wolves/dingoes in a domestic litter from birth (one pup per litter so there is no chance of copying one another) and see what happens then. You cannot just say that it is purely genetic the effects that have been measured.

It depends on the personality of the dogs. If the younger one is very determined or doesnt have enough nerve to hold his drive and anxiety then not coming outside may still drive him to attack as he gets more and more frustrated, particularly if he can see the owner and the older dog gets in his way.

I dont use anything. They get an allwormer that does hydatids if they're eating raw bunny that has not been frozen or processed or if we go bush where there are deer. On the rare occasion I have seen a flea then I use frontline. I think they've only ever had spot on treatment 3 times in their whole lives. I'm in Geelong so I dont bother with heartworm and the only time I go north is in the dead of winter.