Nekhbet

My belgian is currently on Norocarp and Tramadol (WHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!) for some pain she has in her back end. God knows what it is but she couldnt move without squealing. I have her loading dose of 100mg and now she gets 50 today plus she's in a crate until she's better. My other dogs also got it with with a full tummy. Unfortunately the rottie vomited constantly and then had trouble keeping food down at all, as soon as he ate a little he would heave until his guts were empty and had diarrhea.

my view is that if price is an issue, you are better off on a raw natural diet then buying dog foods that cannot even pinpoint what they have put in their food. Anything that says 'here is a list of possible ingredients' I dont bother with. They go on price, not quality. If you have a dog that can live off dirt and still look good then congratulations, not everyones is like that.

if the dog is SIMPLY choosing certain members of the family to growl at then call in a behaviorist. If it exhibits the same behaviours for everyone then a vet check is in order (I would get one anyway to check for pain) The OP has expressed the dog is selectively aggressive. Professional help needs to be called in for this. They cannot go on living with the two girls avoiding the dog because it doesnt accept them as respectable members of the family.

could be his diet is so lean. Is he starting to be really thin and lose muscle or did he have a healthy coating in the first place? remember its cold too, I would have him in a jumper all the time. Have you tried adding something like Livamol to his food? As the vet if he is allowed, I put one of my dog school client's GSD on Livamol, Protexin and minced carcasses and he's not a bag of bones anymore.

both my boys are over 50kg each. Recommended is 5-6 cups and I beleive that. I tried coprice, they were always hungry and the boys hair started falling out

yup definately a thyoid test. Erny has a contact for full thyroid antibody panel too Great Barko? My rottie started to look like that I took him off any grain and upped his omega oils. I would only bother with a raw diet or super premium foods, dont go the cheap stuff.

Rimadyl, Carporfen and Norocarp are derived from propionic acid (as is Ibuprofen, Naprogesic, Duraprox etc), whereas Meloxicam and Previcox (firocoxib) are derived from Enolic acid. Similar effect, different drug. As I said I wonder if there is something else in the Rimadyl that causes problems as the active ingredient itself is not necessarily the whole issue (which is Carprofen) Or there is a genetic component to the problem where some breeds are more susceptable. Like I said Rimadyl was a human drug too expensive to mass market, so it was tossed into the veterinary market instead. It was never designed with animals primarily in mind. A basic warning on Rymadil chews how many vets have let owners know of this?

What a load. Vets dont only sell hills there are many that also sell RC, Eagle Pack, Advance and Eukanuba. Since they are not a pet supplies store they wont clog the waiting room with shelving. Coprice dog food Natural cereal grains (can include wheat, sorghum), chicken and chicken by-product wheat bran, beef tallow, salt, vitamins A, D3, E, K, B1 (thiamin), B2 (Riboflavin), B6, B12, biotin, pantothenate, folic acid, niacin, choline, trace minerals (Cobalt, copper, iodine, iron, managanese, selenium, zinc), mixed tocopherols (vitamin E), citric acid, kelp, garlic, and yucca schidigera extract. For 2 of my dogs I would have to feed them over 5 cups a day each. Great Barko Great Barko is formulated from a selection of the following ingredients. Cooked meat or meat by-products derived from beef, lamb, chicken, pork, cooked fish or fish by-products, fat, cooked cereals, wheaten bran. Canola and soy products derived from them. Lysine, methionine, antioxidant, bentonite, vitamins and minerals. Vitamins: A, D3, E, K, B1 (thiamine), B2 (riboflavin), B6 (pyridoxine), B12, niacin, pantothenate, folic acid and biotin. Minerals: Calcium, phosphorus, sodium, chloride, cobalt, copper, iodine, iron, manganese, selenium and zinc. Uncle Albers INGREDIENTS Uncle Alber's is formulated from a selection of the following ingredients. Cooked meat or meat by-products derived from beef, lamb, poultry or pork. Cooked fish or fish by-products. Fat, cooked cereals and wheaten bran. Products derived from canola and soyabeans. Lysine, methionine, antioxidant, bentonite, vitamins and minerals. Vitamins: A, D3, E, K, B1 (thiamine), B2 (riboflavin), B6 (pyridoxine), B12, niacin, pantothenate, folic acid and biotin. Minerals: Calcium, phosphorus, sodium, chloride, cobalt, copper, iodine, iron, manganese, selenium and zinc. 2 of my dogs need 6 cups a day of these two foods for their weight O_o I have a 15kg bag of royal canin maxi feed three dogs for over 2 weeks without adding other food, or up to a month if I give them raw meaty bones and pet mince too. I cant imagine the amount of poo from 6 cups of cheap food a day :D

We all seem to forget this isnt a human, its a dog. They smell, vomit, poo, shred, scream, scratch, chew etc etc. If mess and effort comes as a surprise to you when getting a puppy, did the breeder not tell you its part of owning a dog (and mud/water is part of hunting/water breeds, barking is part of guarding breeds) To the OP if your pup has diarrhea put it on boiled chicken and rice until its gone and reintroduce normal food slowly. If its a poor quality food find something better. Routine is the best, all my dogs learned from day one their place and routine, screaming got you ignored or squirted with a bottle if you were too loud and everyone was well adjusted and happy quickly.

ouch who came up with that mating?

high strength liquid fish oil, a capful a day. Best thing I have ever used

yup 3 strands are better, you can get the tread in posts for about $5-6 each which tape or string you get will depend on your distance, power pack and soil conditions. I used the ping string as it was cheaper but worked very well. You will also need to get some star posts and make sure your fence is earthed properly or the further you go the less zap you get. Power packs, plug in, I got a Speedrite for a couple of hundred and it packs a punch. Gallagher make batter operated ones that are fairly decent, Thunderbird is another good brand. I like my Speedrite but the powerpack is massive compared to the other brands probably looking at about $350 if you haggle a bit or shop around.

it's normal for a dog to vomit up undigestable bones. If the dog is not eating them on a daily basis get something softer like chicken carcasses/wings or more edible bones like lamb flaps. Conversely a bone they simply play with and you take off them before they eat it like lamb shank or beef spine.

if its just on the skin bathe it with salty water and let it dry. I wouldnt go to the vet for just a scratch. If you have some iodine make a weak tea coloured solution or if its in a paste then a teeny weeny smear on it if you're really worried.

seriously I would stick to a good dry food at least during the growing phase if you are not already versed in raw diets for pups. Get it wrong and the results can be disasterous. I too second the notion of find another breeder. Plenty of ethical white shepherd breeders here on DOL if you want one.

if they need to wake the pup get them to call the dog happily and clap their hands to wake it first then try and move it. If you are still having problems even after being woken then your pup needs some better rules and regulations as to what is acceptable around people. A good rule anyway is no free range on the furniture and teach the dog the 'down' or 'get off' command so they dont have to pick him up to necessarily move him. He shoudlnt have to be asked, when you say off you mean it non negotiably. It can happen in as young as 12 weeks (and younger - I have seen 10 week olds stand their ground eyeballing human males like come on, try me) but dont panic, true aggressive tendencies at this age are quite rare. Nip it in the bud and most of all remain calm about it.

put the dog in a crate and give it a little nightlight so it can see. Seems like a dark phobia is not helping if the vet gives the all clear on health

rimadyl and Norocarp both contain Carprofen but the rest of the tablet is god knows what crap. I weaned my dog off to Norocarp too as that was sending him to an early grave through not being able to walk. Interesting to see it used to be used in humans in the 80s but was pulled off the market due to costs and also caused stomach upset/ulcurs. I suppose not to lose money on a product they gave it to dogs. Very dangerous for cats by the way. ETA if you read up on Non Steroidal Anti Inflammatories in general we still dont 100% know the mechanism of function of these drugs. So it becomes a balance of probabilites. I would rather now people take their animals to an alternative practitioner for a try and natural/dietary remedies instead of whacking them straight on NSAIDS - they fix nothing. In fact in already injured dogs they create further injury as the animals pain is masked, they feel invincible and use that injured part. I would rather my dog whinge a little then go for a run and hurt himself further. My GSD Krueger was given a week of Norocarp after hip x-rays, after they wore off the poor bugger could barely get up he had over done it and caused more problems instead of pacing himself as he usually did. Now NSAIDS are resevered for emergencies.

anatolians are livestock guardian dogs. I wouldnt recommend one to just mooch around the backyard as a pet they are still pretty primitive and need a job and firm owner.

there is an alternative, ask for Norocarp I found it much kinder

I tried the rottweiler but I found the Maxi better. I have seen the GSD formula make a considerable improvement in some dogs, but my last one was on the Maxi as well and did wonderfully.

I refuse to use Rymadyl. I too had the chews and after a few days my dog could not keep any food down and was in more pain then just his hips. I think it's a terrible drug and to have severe stomach reactions is more then just here and there. I now go for alternative therapies and use other safer drugs if I absolutely have to. But when it comes to pain a little for the dog is good as it gives them a limit to how much movement is enough for their problem. Some vets are too prescription happy these days I think.

work the younger through it, start feeding her in there exclusively, leave door open etc until she's comfortable then slowly start with the door shutting. Dont make a fuss or stand over her expectantly just consider it the new routine and no negotiations.

THere is times when you do have to exercise control over the other dog and this is one of them. Not a problem you just let go if your dog is that extreme at excluding the other and guarding you.

the husky x is boss and your old girl is still trying to keep her position. You would have found the fighting due to having an existing leader bitch and introducing a new healthy, dominant bitch to the mix. In the world of dogs the eldest with so many medical problems is useless to them. In a wild/feral situation the elder one would have been rejected or killed by other younger dogs. Its how dogs are wired to ensure survival. The huski x will break up over excitement as it is intolerable to dogs. Rude dogs get hyperactive, well behaved dogs play nicely. My own bitch does the same, its perfectly normal. your older dog is telling you she is boss over sister and new dog. You need to implement more control. 1) no dogs on any furniture. I would be getting crates and not letting them swap them around. Everyone goes into crate, not sharing furniture. You are giving them a resource to squabble about. 2) start controlling areas. Keep the door shut if you are not in that room. If they cant access they cant mark. again, shows your control is quite low. Why smack an old dog that has trouble walking? You can see that with the introduction of a true challenger your efforts mean very little to the old girl. As for the second sentence - your dog is not a human. They will not sulk because they feel bad like a person would. They show sulking behaviour because they have learned it catches your attention and probably gets them cuddles. If my dogs get told off I dont care what pathetic behaviour they show, you mess up you get corrected, as it is in the dog world. No she doesnt. Not if that is not her personality and position in your dog pack. She can still have her ranking but your word is ultimate. Not every dog will get along with every other dog as bed buddies especially in a house full of females from not so soft breeds. Dogs still have to communicate with each other and they do that through body language. Your discipline is either ill timed, confusing or non existent to the dogs. You need to exercise more control techniques then simple discipline and stop attributing so many human ideals onto your dogs.