Nekhbet

name sound familiar? And selling them off to go at 6 weeks .. care to explain Kristina or you branching out into quick dollars now? Wonder what the dutchies breeder thinks of his bitch used as a bybers dog.

if people are touting 25-30kg then their dogs are either crosses, or amstaffs. Without pedigree papers dont let them fool you with 'oh its a purebred' .. not at that size its not. I agree, supercoat is a lot of filler hence its cheap. Take a look at www.vetsallnatural.com.au, a friend has her dogs on it and they are all in fabulous condition even her greyhound. Unless you want to go on the road of a good kibble like Royal Canin, Eagle Pack, Artemis, etc as well as some raw meaty bones

I found my bitch improved staying entire, my last bitch was the same.

well ya know what .. hows about you ring him up and ask him yourself? Since you make such a valid point. Maybe Craig himself would like to explain to you his methods and reasoning. I know the man but like any other trainer, I wouldnt dare be presumptuous and try to explain all of his methodology as I'm sure I would not communicate it to their exact reasoning. But to repeat myself - not all training requires food, even if the dog IS highly food motivated. When you start dealing with behaviour, its not just clicks, treats, rewards, etc etc. Even if a dog is highly food motivated, there is no dog that will simply lay down in protest if you do not bring a treat with you. If it does, then I apply an aversive as motivation - then we're dealing with a spoiled, lazy animal that has not had to work for anything. I offer the option - work and be reinforced, or dont work and get something thats not as nice. When a dog has to weigh up the options trust me, they'll take what they can get and turn whatever is around them into a reinforcer. Food then gets offered as a jackpot for super duper behaviour if that is what the dog likes. That is one way.

not if the dog switches off to food. To have a toolbox means you problem solve and have methods available as a handler to deal with a situation, not that you force your dog to accept every type of reward available. If a dog I have is not interested in food, we dont progress further with it. I find what turns it on, drive it crazy further for it and use it as a reward. Sometimes its a combination of two that makes it super special to the dog. But I dont see the point in plugging away trying to force a reward onto an animal if it values something more highly, especially as the better of two options in a situation.

How much muscle depends on the dog genetics. If he is from small stock then he will remain small and over supplementing and over proteining his diet long term can he harmful. If he's a healthy weight then dont push him. What are you feeding him? Lean protein and regular exercise builds muscle. Dont go for runs all the time, try swimming, there are also weight harnesses available on the net where you SLOWLY add more weight (like human resistance training) Any exercise you do has to be slowly built up in order to prevent joint and organ damage. Dont just start a hard exercise routine. The Alaskan Malamute Club and American Bulldog Club run weight pull events which might be something to consider as well for muscle building.

- warmth (even coolish days, jumper or pj's that cover chest and joints - super strength fish oil - chiro/actupuncture - 1000mg glucosamine/chondroiten tabs - a diet as free from artificial additives and grains as possible - keep their weight right down, below 'average' if you can

you can do some work ... my rottie walked out the back door just before straight past the dogue who didnt even bother sniffing him or following him out. They have been taught to ignore each other. I think when relationships are really strained separation actually increases comfort - the dog knows it doesnt have to deal with their competitor ever again for bed, food, toy, space etc ... I mean how great is that to the dog brain! Just treat them equally, dont give a centimeter when it comes to their behaviour and things will be fine. If you want to be able to walk them together or if they start fence fighting/eyeballing each other even when separated call a professional, then you really have problems in your pack and the dogs are showing you really have little importance to them when it comes to swaying their behaviour.

This is the problem - unless you see food being shoved into a dogs mouth you think its not 'good enough'. Dogs dont need a continuous stream of food in order to learn. Yes it is one method, fine. For thousands of years dogs have been trained without food rewards and clickers corvus, to incredibly high standards. No need to now say that food is the be all and end all. I also dont enjoy standing in a puddle of drool with a hungry dog (bordeauxs are NOT suitable unless you have a mop and bucket handy at all times ) By the way, for click and treat being such an advantageous method in your opinion it is yet to be picked up by prominent departments around the world as a method of training their dogs. It's all very well for trick training but for general everyday manners and life skills I'll stick to more well rounded concepts then just take positive reinforcement and neglect the rest.

prey and pack rewards can be just as good if not better. A dog in prey drive will naturally refuse food, what, would you starve it so it moulds into your ideals? There is more to dog training then food rewards, frankly I barely use them with my clients and have a really positive outcome AND quickly as well. I teach people skills to train, not become food dispensers. Obviously you dont since you dont know how he trains. I think people misunderstand, Craig is NOT about not using rewards, he just doesnt use all positive reinforcement training hence why Grace would have written its not food based training.

go the hot tape, put it in 3 strings and about a meter away from the fence. They learn very quickly and no need for a collar or burying wires

He has 25 years experience and does work with man tracking, search and rescue, cadaver dogs, assistance dogs etc. He's not an idiot when it comes to dogs, he just doesnt believe that purely food reward is the be all and end all. Trust me, he does plenty of work with the dogs drives.

yup big thumbs up for Craig, you would be hard pressed to find a better trainer. Great man he came down to Geelong the other day for council seminars By the way good training does not have to be food based.

I have two dogs that dont get along, put them in together and they would guarenteed attack each other. Its happy family here, they're separated and now they have their own corners of the world they are stress free. If they are inside at the same time I either put up a barrier, shut a door or at least one is in a metal crate. I dont see why a dog has to be rehomed and I would never advocate doing it with a dog that has shown dog to dog aggression. It may not just be the other bitch that is the target.

yeah mums is smaller then a cat. Saying that his royal highness still has a mean set of teeth as I can attest to when he latched onto my boob and did the whole thrash/chomp/maul episode. ok looked back through posts OP has a staffy x puppy with mouthing, biting type tendencies and from a not so good breeder. I say professional help sooner then later with a dog like this.

they can barely look after their own population then have the resources to round up dangerous strays. If it's a clean shot then what else could they do

I'm assuming its a small breed. I do it with mums pomeranian because sometimes the little brat prince wont move and he has a grumble. Only because he doesnt want to get off his butt when told.

two bull breeds close together in age. I would be tempted to leave the bulldog entire so they are unevenly matched. You need professional help and separation. The Ambull is coming of age but the staffy x is not wanting to release her position as top dog despite being desexed, she is coming into her prime and there will be more fights to come unless you start ruling the both of them. Speying does not get rid of aggressive hormones at all. That is a myth completely. You have two breeds born to be stubborn, dominant, and have less hesitation in having a fight with another dog when they're pushed. I agree totally with what Sandra has written. No matter how wel they start getting along NEVER leave them within reach of each other when you are not around.

At my last clinic we had 3 thyroid dogs all under 5 months old when it first started. I agree slow down on the drugs! The only thing Advocate will not do is Hydatid tapeworm. If you are on a farm you worm for that every 3-6 months with a product called Droncit. Apart from that you dont need to be dosing with another wormer every 6 weeks! I thought advocate already did sarcoptes and demodex

galagher is a better brand then sure guard. I run mine off mains, battery can run out or short

cartrophen and carprophen are two completely different things. The worst thing I've seen with cartrophen is that it has no effect at all, never seen a side effect

give him a blood test and rug him up really really well, I mean something that covers his chest, down his legs a little and over his tail if you can. If he has dementia he probably does not have the faculties to realise he's cold and should do something about it. what do you mean by this? He gets a bone to gnaw for breakfast? I would be giving him 3 meals a day, warm them slightly if you can to body temperature to help his digestion and body as well. DIgestion takes quite a few calories, it has to be warmed to the right temp for enzymes to work! Dont make the food 'warm' to touch or you may kill off the enzymes you add to his food.

these same things have been going on for as long as I have known about Rymadyl. I used it because I was desperate but thankfully I learned of alternative pain relief and healing techniques before I euthanised a second dog to HD.

ahhaaaa ok so there WAS some pain and he maybe associated it with your girls causing it again. As for moving the dog try luring with food, if it doesnt work you be the one to move him straight away. Dont let your daughteres get into a confrontation. Now some confidence work. This is best if the pup is really hungry. Get some lovely food like shredded chicken and have your daughters sit on the floor WITH YOU. Start slowly running their hands up and down the pup while he gets made a fuss over and fed. Start slow, just on his back, then start more down near his tummy, etc go as far as the dog is comfortable. If he starts to look tucked up, nervous, too quiet etc just cut the exercise there and end on a happy note. Dont make it a quiet affair and nervous, I would make a ruckus, get that pup excited about being touched all over and show there is nothing going on with your kids. Do this at least as a start. If you need more advice in the mean time feel free to email me.

order straight from the US if you can, some stuff you will never find here in Oz. Was the haematoma from a trauma she had?