Nekhbet

Just when you thought advice could not get worst a lady come in today with an 8 week old puppy (swf breed), she wants to teach it to sleep in a kennel during the day so the vet told her to chain it to the kennel overnight ;) It's absolutely freezing out here at night I cannot imagine a 2kg puppy all alone in a kennel in the backyard being 'fine' she already has a crate so I told her the pup would be fine in there, have a big pee and poo first, zip it in with a chicken neck and all will be safe and hunky dory. You really have to wonder :p

have you tried soaking them for him? If he's not digesting then he needs to have this problem looked at, there is something wrong. He could have a partial blockage of the intestines, a problem with his esophagus (food pipe ;)) if he keeps vomiting or is losing weight. I would find an experienced vet for a second opinion and at the minimum an x-ray or ultrasound. This sounds more then just excited eating if he's not keeping food down at all.

pure beef is not a complete diet for a dog. If you want to feed a raw diet then do a search here on the forum for BARF (bone and raw food) or give him a good large breed kibble like royal canin, eagle pack etc as a meal or two. If he's running about up to an hour after he will vomit. Squished face breeds end up hoofing in a lot of air as they eat and hence tend to burp and vomit. Feed him, lock him up or keep him quiet for about an hour after the meal and see how he goes then, I would still say a couple of meals a day at least for this dog.

I wouldnt necessarily start with dog in a crate and loose cat - crate builds frustration which can increase prey drive and make your job more difficult. I would start on lead with a corrective device (prongs come in teeny tiny sizes too) correct for any attention towards the cat and reward with a toy for ignoring cat. Although I also second the old dog bashing tomcat idea LOL just trim up his claws first

she is still a baby, give her time. Plus females can take longer or have less territoriality then a male. I would appreciate more the fact you have a friendly dog then one that barks constantly. I also wouldnt bother teaching a dog to bark when someone comes as that can open the door to nuscience barking through self rewarding behaviour

I wouldnt desex any large dog under 12 months of age. Giant breeds and working dogs I would leave a lot longer especially for males. It has nothing to do with fun or directly linked to a dogs testosterone status. I have 3 dogs in my household, an entire male, a desexed male and an entire bitch. THe entire bitch marks and cocks her leg over other dogs and the boys wee, the desexed male acts like he's entire and didnt cock his leg until well after he weas desexed at about 11 months old. A dogs attitude, mostly genetic, will dictate this and its dominance status. I have 3 very dominant dogs in the house and I know it. But none of them ever dare piss in the house or pull me about to mark wherever they want. Depends what the vets use. If you're going to pump the dog with enough premed to knock out a horse then even fluids do only so much. Isofluorane is out of their system quickly (if the vet uses it) and my clinic refused to use Dormitor except for rabbits.

OK Operant Conditioning - You have 4 ways (positive/negative punishment and positive/negative reinforcement) in which to modify a voluntary or 'operant' behaviour. So basically as Aiden has regurgitated, the dog learns that by modifying its behaviour it can produce a different outcome for itself - either good or bad. So behaviours that elicit punishments will die out, those that elicit reinforcement will remain and ampify. EG dog barks at other dogs. You give him a check chain correction every time he starts to bark (positive punishment ie the application of a punishment) and the dogs behaviour becomes changed (eg stops) due to consequence of the action (every time he starts to bark he gets corrected) Conversely like the old forced retrieve. DOg has dumbell put near mouth and ear pinched until he holds it in his mouth (negative reinforcement, ie remove the bad as a reward) Dog eventually learns it is a good thing to hold dumbell in mouth through consequence 4 ways of modifying behaviour Positive punishment - application of an aversive (unpleasant) Negative punishment - removal of an appetitive (nice thing) Positive reinforcement - application of an appetitive Negative reinforcement - removal of an aversive So actually when you read this there is no such thing as 'purely positive' training unless that means you only use positive punishment and positive reinforcement Even without the use of positive punishment there is still negative punishment unless you intend to reward your dog for every movement it does right or wrong. Classical (Pavlovian) Conditioning The dog associates a neutral stimulus (something that has no good or bad meaning to the dog at all, lets say like a whistle) with an unconditioned stumulus (this is a stimulus that automatically gets a response without having to be learned, like the smell of food) Now put the neutral stimulus together with the unconditioned stimulus often enough and soon the neutral becomes a conditioned stimulus (one that triggers a conditioned response) so lets take an example. Dog grows up around gunfire from the day its born. Neither bad nor good to the dog, ignores it totally. Then one day owner takes him out, fires and a heap of ducks fly up from the grass and dog chases them. From then on every time the owner fires a heap of ducks fly up and dog chases. So now when the dog hears a gunshot he jumps up and goes off to chase any supposed ducks that might be around. The original gunfire (neutral stimulus) has been paired with flying ducks that arouse its prey drive (unconditioned stimulus) and dog through repetition, and fact that everytime gun goes off ducks fly about, now considers the gunshot an conditioned stimulus that triggers him to immediately switch into prey and look about for ducks to chase (conditioned response) even if there may not be any present for him to see. So its not the ducks that are the conditioned stimulus, its the gunfire.

if she's only started marking recently and it's progressing she's telling you she has a problem with Lexi, or the beginning of one. If you're walking the pup too the jack russell is asserting herself and her territoriality. I think you need to help Tess feel more comfortable, sounds like she's shouldering a lot of the work, getting less then required leadership and guidence from you and she's in panic control mode yet not really cut out for it 100%. Lexi is a baby, most problems hit around the 12 month mark in a harder dog, or 18-24 month period. THats when they lose the attitude of 'OK I'll take it, I'm a baby" to "no F you, who do you think you are snapping at me that way, i'm a fully mature adult". Thats when it hit between my males and thats the end of that. No more playing nicely at all and now there has to be at least a baby gate between them or one starts on the other (one dog is the main perpetrator of this)

give her a firm correction for even starting to walk towards trees. Unlip the dog from your belt and do some training while she learns. Praise for leaving trees alone. I give my dogs a pee command so they know its wee time and the rest of the time tough luck. Remember to also reward the dog for paying attention to you, take a few steps backwards in her training and treat her a bit like a pup again. Marking in bitches means you have a dominant animal, not necessarily an infection and it is not uncommon at all. As for marking inside supervise at all times and give her a big punishment for marking inside. A gruff HEY NO or bang two pot lids together and put her straight outside for a while to go pee if she needs to. Keep an eye on her closely as well. I see you also have another up and coming dog which I assume is a bitch also, get a tighter reign on the jack russell before she starts having a serious go at your golden.

i'd just say byb border collie in merle, doest have to be a cross just out of standard

It is not easy or convenient for everyone to carry food. This is the difference about experience with your own dogs and clients, they give you parameters and you have to work within them. Plus I want owners to have better handling skills by interacting more with their pets then relying on food to build it. Take away the crutch and I have good results with it plus owners learn to relax and pay attention to their dogs behaviour. I dont want my dogs seeing me as a food dispenser. I treat food like the icing on the cake or a welcome bonus, if they dont get it it's not an issue either because they're more then happy to get a pat. I just cut out the middle man, I dont exclusively use luring in my training either, hence I dont need to have food involved all the time.

I use food but I reserve it more for jackpot rewards then constant bits. For puppies food is great more often but I still like them to learn that human rewards and owners are high value. This way I never have a dog that expects food rewards, or has to be 'weaned' off food, or performs only when food is about, the owner is a reward in itself. If the dog does not like the owner as a reward then I look at why - are they dull, boring, have they constantly talkede/grumbled/yelled at the dog etc. A dog is a pack animal, it is a rare dog that will absolutely not perk up for praise. I had a german shepherd here who had no human contact up until 10 weeks of age, and despite being semi feral he still warmed up to human praise and wanting affection as a reward, performed well for it and listened. And I also teach less is more with talking to the dog. I do not like handlers "ahh, No, BAD DOG etc" at the dog while training. That is what the leash and collar are for, to guide and correct. If the owners switch to only positive verbalisation you see their entire demenour changes, the dog then becomes interested in the handler like 'wow, you're pretty awesome what do you wanna do next!". Food then becomes the icing on the take, sort of like your christmas bonus at the end of the year for a super job. prey drive training is a little different depending on what you want to teach, but again if the dog is too toy focussed that is hidden away and used as a bonus in the beginning until the idea of the handler being the primary focus is achieved. I dont have to teach 'look' as a separate command, instead i have clients reward the dog for natural focus which means they are not looking back at your hands for a treat, they are looking at your face and WANT to look at your face as they are being reinforced for it. I see so many dogs look at their owners, get nothing, then the owners struggle with consistancy of commanding the look as the dog is learning its more a commanded trick then focus needing to be just part of what you do. Your dog should always want to look to you for guidance, and praise should be given every time no matter the age or stage of the dog. My dogs still stare at me because no matter what we're doing, if I say their name and they look at me they get at least a 'oh what a good dog!' and occasionally a biscuit comes flying too You use what is right for the dog and what gets you results. Even a dog insane for food, sometimes that food drive is in overdrive and their focus is simply on that. So I give it less often and teach them its super special and you get it for listening to me. I find it better then food, food, food, food, food, food then that becomes the dogs preoccupying thought. I want ME to be that thought, and the food to just cement the concept because the dog finds it super duper awesomely special.

give him a good bath in Malaseb and dry him very very thoroughly, I mean so there is no moisture left. If you want add some omega oils to the diet and see if that improves it

thats basic canine knowledge that sharp noises (eg as in prey like noises) will excite a carnivore. If I squeak to my ferrets they go mental. My point is, why do you have to command it at all. It should be just part of life between you and the dog, ie, you never ever snatch or bite things from my hand. If you are having to command an animal not to exhibit rude behaviour it means that in some instances that dog will find it acceptable to snap. That is my point. I teach all dogs that are here snapping, mouthing, biting people is NEVER EVER acceptable. No matter what I have in my hand I never have to tell a dog not to snap, they know it's not allowed and getting the treat is the icing on the cake that lets them know their behaviour is acceptable, and to repeat calm in future. Huski I gave an example of the rottweiler and the snatching incidents, they have nothing to do with your dogs at all. I dont know why you included them except to tell me your beagle has extreme food drive. My comments were also not directed towards yours either so maybe we got mixed up. It's horses for courses, the way I trained the rottweiler may or may not work on your beagle, or it may be detrimental. I dont put one method on all dogs I was simply giving an example that even a dog with strong food drive can be trained without food. You again are simply on the assumption that no food is used. Like I said, and I'll simplify, they simply said they dont use it PRIMARILY as a form of training and not to bring it. Craig himself does use food when warranted but it is not the primary reinforcer used for every dog. When you train in a behavioural manner you dont always need food despite having a strong food drive, prey drive etc in the dog. To me its in the same category of Logic FAIL as when a persons dog is being a rough arse with another dog and they go 'oooh he's only playing' or when a dog is on leash and giving go away signals with another dog in its face then gets a smack on the head for biting other rude dog. It's just backward.

pay closer attention Huski. I never said I dont use food, I never said Craig doesnt use food, neither of us use it on a regular basis and he probably uses it more sparingly then I do. But we both believe in making a dog work for what they get, and setting the bar higher to get your rewards. If you like using food for your beagle fine, thats your opinion but your opinion too is based simply on your own dogs since thats where your experience lies. And I think you're far from the person to teach me about using drives to enhance a dogs performance. quite a few other drives are just as if not more useful then food. Some drives can supress food drive. Other dogs behaviour can suppress or enhance certain drives in your own dog. The environment itself can tip the value of a reward up or down. I could starve my Malinois for a couple of days, but put a chop down next to the lure coursing field and she'd rather chase then eat. The only thing she would then value is water, even then only when she got desperate. Thats how they are taught and they only need one lesson to get the idea. Snap at me and the hand will be pushed into your nose, younger pups or soft dogs simply have the treat removed/closed in a fist until they learn. Bite down on my hand and you get a thumb under the tongue. I dont smack the dog on the face FFS what do you take me for. I dont see the need to attach a command to the action - dogs dont need to be led step by step like ignoramasus so many people seem to take them for, or over anthropomorphise them to have to have constant conversations with their animals. There are some hard and fast rules that I dont need to tell me dogs, they know because they are taught, you bite me there is an unpleasant consequence, be nice and you get the treat. Basic basic basic concept there. I frankly think having to constantly ask your dog not to bite your hand in the process is stupid. Attaching a command also does not make it an automatic behaviour, you are now making it a commanded behaviour, a pattern, a partial condition - so unless you ask, your dog will not assume it is a complete no no. There's wriggle room in there for snapping or bad behaviour, by then the rewards in its mouth. And please explain to me how repeating 'geeeentle' to an animal that has no human verbal skills or born with the ability to speak english, as I annoyingly see so many people who then have the look on their face like "will he get my fingers this time" do, teaches the dog that you dont want them to snap your hand?

the active ingredient is warfarin. It doesnt bind up vitamin K it actually prevents an enzyme working that recycles spent vitamin K to a more useful form again. Vitamin K is a cofactor used to help turn blood proteins into useful forms in order to clot. The reason vitamin K therapy can then not be effective is because the dog has severe internal bleeding which has damaged other areas, or clots formed now with Vit K can kill the animal through embolisms or stroke. It can take up to 3 days for warfarin overdose to take effect, by then your dog will be bleeding out. You need to get to a vet ASAP for fluid and Vit K therapy even if the dog looks OK. They can either turn very ill or just drop dead.

yup, I still go to vets if I have to but honestly i'm being frustrated more and more. Take some pills, rest, come back to spend $500 in x-rays. I have all my dogs treated now by chiros, holistic methods and muscle men FIRST, if they cannot improve then we go vet. I had my two dogs bounce out of that mans room today instead of limping and yelping. Good ones are worth their weight in gold. I would go get it done ASAP, the longer the dog wobbles about or puts uneven pressure on its limbs the more it puts its muscles out and strains others. Its like if you have a sore somewhere you get more from leaning or limping because of uneven weight distribution. It cant hurt to get it checked out.

mine are always fed twice a day unless they refuse their food which they do seasonally. Main meal morning, evening is just small to tide them over if they need it.

go find yourself a dog chiro or ring the greyhound breeders and see who their respected chiro/muscle man is. Better then a vet. I just took one of my dogs to the vet (at a big specialist and teaching centre mind you) for a similar thing, she was yelping and screaming. They diagnosed probably arthritis (as in I dont have a clue but here is a bag full of meds to keep her quiet). Greyhound man found she had a dislocated tail and put it back in place for me for $10, as well as taught me how to massage her muscles and what to use to get the swelling down.

I know for a fact he does use it but his training is not purely positive reinforcement based. have you run classes? Most people bring dry food, low value food, full up dogs etc. Why bring food if in all probability it will be used sparingly or the dog may be turned off it after 10 minutes. And not all clients listen to specific instructions - I rather provide treats and toys during classes I know works then rely on clients who then cannot work properly in the class. As for food motivated dogs, I worked with a very naughty rottie on saturday. Adores food. I took it all away and made him work just for the privilage of my attention and praise coupled with corrections thrown in. Never seen that dog snap to attention with tail wagging like that before. Food can also bring out bad habits. Owners teach their dogs do X for a treat. Pull out treat and the same sloppy behaviour is shown. Take away food, add new novel reward and see an improvement. I also see a behavioural difference when you primarily use food rewards too, owners slacken off with their own body language then the dog plateaus faster as it actually has learned nothing but a few tricks. Food is good sometimes even with a food motivated dog, but again, its not the be all and end all. I sparingly use them in my behaviour consults as well and I have success, I also see better bonding and trust between dog and owner when more genuine physical contact is made instead of handing over a treat. As for dogs that snap treats, they get none or a bop on the nose. Teaching gentle is redundant, you shoudlnt have to ask your dogs not to take your whole hand no matter how enthusiastic.

if that was my bitch I'd be having them aborted if I knew a GSD had got to her, or desex before rehoming and sell them off at the price of the vet costs. $600 is just money making.

also posts in breeders forum and has studded her dog out for top dollar. I think she's been here long enough to know what she's doing is nothing but backyarding at its absolute best. Also her sig says trainer and behaviour consultant ...

so ethical breeders sell their oops litters at that price at 6 weeks do they? And advertise them as working dogs?

she's already put in the dutch shep thread that she has a litter ... I thought it was an oops but I see otherwise. I didnt go see how often she posts on DOL I saw enough of her posts I assumed she was a regular. I wish I knew who the dutchies breeder was they would be getting an email from me straight away. I think people have a right to know what type of people they're 'helping' and 'advising' about dog matters as well particularly when she asks for advice.

and not a newby either