Nekhbet

I would spey her if she's not being bred from. Saying that she is a terribly dominant dog and now she's coming up to sexual maturity she's throwing her weight around big time. You need to stop her, retrain her that everything belongs to YOU not HER and you simply allow her to use it. When you are feeding them, make sure everyone stays at their bowls. What I do it tie up the offending animals far apart but within eyeshot of each other (unless they are absolute horrors around food then at the start out of sight) and do basic obedience commands for their food, let them finish, pick up all the bowls and spilled food then let them off when they are calm. You gradually get them closer and closer so you teach them to eat near each other without being stressed or causing harm, as well as understanding that they only eat out of their bowls and no one elses. Never have the dogs within reach of each other when tethered in case they do regress or fight. As for the bed situation, again, she is now the young entire bitch and she's kicking them off their positions. I would purchase a crate and put the younger one in there at bed time with a bone so they cannot access each other. Do not let the other dogs do what they want either, its same rules for everyone. But you have one very dominant bitch who will naturally harass and fight off the ones she sees as inferior due to being older and desexed, so ultimately your responsibilites come down to control, training and harm minimisation.

swivel is the live ring, round is the dead ring. Attach to the swivel only to make the collar tighten when corrected, attach to both to lessen the impact and prevent tightening (loses martingale effect)

not all allergies are species specific, and the basics of the canine immune system are still almost identical to the human. Actually immunoresponses to allergens work in the same way as in people, thats why the desensitisation injections and antihistamines work. Why do you think many drugsand procedures from people are given to dogs? There are enough people on this forum who could use this. I listed it simply as multiple different immune reactions to these basic vegetables have been noted so maybe they actually are causing a problem for the OPS dog.

either would be fine, depends what your dog does better on they're both premium foods.

take him for a good vet check, that is pain somewhere. Being a lab they hide pain VERY well despite poking and prodding. Conversely he could be constipated My Malinois was acting the same way, a lot of panting - then she started pacing and yelping randomly turned out to be a dislocated tail.

crating stops the problem simply because you remove the dog from the garden, it teaches the dog nothing. You cant crate a dog day in day out simply due to that. What a life. Take some nice fresh stinky poo and put it in the holes, not deep, refill most of the hole then a fine layer of soil on top. A few times of splatting into fresh poo will stop her. Also get yourself a kids clamshell pool, a few dollars worth of washed sand and let her run riot in there. Bury treats etc and give her an outlet for all that Dally energy!

remove temptation or set him up. Some sacrificial old towels smothered in Crib Stop or super bitter sprays (and I mean liberally applied) then let him learn on its own that pulling flapping washing is baaaaaaad! Apart from that provide him with plenty of rotated toys etc. A lab is surely going to fing flaping washing super fun as the movement and sound attracts them!

I know plenty of cockers that live as house dogs. Depends on the personality and energy level of the individual as to how much exercise you need to give it per day

could very well be. My dogue has the canine on one side rubbed almost in half, the vet has seen it and the tooth has slowly been building a protective layer over the years to ensure the sensitive parts are not exposed. The other side of his mouth is not as bad but have rubbed as well. THe rottweiler has his bottom canines just rub the front of the top ones and make a slight stain to the front of the teeth, again no probes there. If it's not severe or causing pain then I wouldnt worry about it. ETA what to do depends. You can go bananas and get doggy braces to straighten the teeth if they're severe problems, do nothing if its just a bit of rubbing and the tooth is coping, or if it is causing problems remove a tooth. EIther way dogs cope fine.

Are you sure you are rewarding real protection, or the fact the dog may have become disorientated or confused in what I'm assuming is low light and you rewarded a fabulous fear reaction. I think a lot of people are mistaking confusion and fear for your dog being your fearless protector. I agree with corvus, being 'different' doesnt mean shady. And many times these reactions come at night when a lot of dogs are put off guard due to lower visability, hence they feel the need to flip into defence mode faster. Dont necessarily take that as something to be happy about. Being alert is one thing, lunging out for no really GOOD reason (apart from the one you feel the need to come up with like 'they must have been a bad person") is something I would look at. CHange your habits or reevaluate your dogs overall control and behaviour. How many of you have socialised your dog in low light/night situations? We forget about this. Just as important as daytime. I'd be fixing that quick smart. That shows lack of socialisation and anxiety at the unknown, no one is showing her how to react so she flips into 'get the heck away from me whatever you are!' mode. Barking and whining is not protecting you. That is an investigative response and probably frustration at not being able to get to what she wants to see.

make sure the ramp is stable. If you want him to use it, again hold him close to the collar so you can control his speed, apply pressure if he rushes (which is now a habit) Try like I said for the older girl, if she feels unstable she will stop. If you need to put a rag under one corner to stop the wobbles do that, and help her up and down a few times with rewards. If I can get a huge mastiff up a ramp I'm sure we can get a rottie and her favourite food as a bribe up the top wouldnt go astray too, but dont let her stand too long, if a dog stops moving so does the mind. Then its just like trying to drag a stone.

I thought it was a wind up. The point of a crate is to safely contain your dog, as you have seen he can get out of a playpen. YOu need to teach your dog this is his 'bedroom' and it's super fun to be in there. Give him treats, his bed and a toy to keep him happy, you can even feed meals in there to reinforce the comfort factor. Just make sure you are around to hear when he needs to go to the toilet otherwise he will be forced to toilet in his crate. You also should NOT be encouraging young dogs to jump off anything unless you have a nice savings account full of money to fix broken bones or injured joints.

Find where puppy has peed wipe with paper towel or thick tissue allow to dry or for added zing use fresh voila! Instant puppy pheromone attractant pad! And it even smells like him too! Forget the gimmicks, use his own poop and wee.

what have you tried so far? The fastest way I get a balking dog up a ramp is with 2 people, have a collar and lead on the dog, one person hold the dog firmly very close to the collar (or even by collar) and the other next to you guiding and pushing back legs up. When the dog reaches the top reward and then help them down slowly. rinse and repeat until the dog stops faffing about. It can be a bit scary and uncoordinated but get them over that "I dont wanna do it!" hump and they will use it.

From Allergy Net

open and shut his jaw while you pull the lips back ... are you sure a bottom tooth is not rubbing in that spot? Two of my dogs have rubbing teeth and they leave spots like that. Neither of them have any problems with it.

are you sure he doesnt just need a wash/trim or it's a behavioural habit attached to happyness, playfullness or stress? Also having that mixed coat you need to trim the fur between his toes otherwise all manner of stuff can get in there and cause problems OR it stays wet and gets a bit itchy.

Actually I think people are becoming less educated. Dogs are toys, fur children, best friends before being dogs. We cant train them with corrections or put them in their place because we may hurt their precious feelings. Maybe if people treated dogs like dogs and developed a dash of common sense they wouldnt be bitten as often.

Lort SMith is the best price, I got my shep done there he had undescended testicle as well (although somehow they managed to give him 26 stitches in the process) Email me about the dog, and who told you it was a dominance issue?

if you guys have that problem hold the toy at both ends and shove the middle into the dogs mouth. Just practice like that for a while. If you can make the centre a different colour or wrap some wool around it to make it like a 'target' that can help too so the dog knows how to focus. Dogs that are taught onto sleeves are also taught to target for the best bite, the worst dogs are dirty biters that take a darn chomp anywhere or totally miss sleeve and get shoulder/fingers. They can be taught you just need to work on it

without mimicry no species would survive. How do they think valuable skills are taught? As for copying humans, we raise dogs as semi human from the moment they're born so it's no surprise they have basic understanding of hands, mouths etc considering they are such a highly developed body language species compared to us. Hell, they notice tiny body and facial movements that most humans miss so the fact they learn through positive reinforcement how to open a door is not really something that revolutionary. Seems like you can get grants for just about anything these days

dont let him run off with the toy. Accidents happen, if one of mine grab my hand instead they hear AHHH and drop it. They learn to be more careful and that it is indeed a hand and not part of hte toy dont be angry accidents happen sometimes when you put your hand near a contacting dogs mouth. As K9 has said look at what toy you're using and how you present it. Some people pull the tug away from the dog and hence the dog takes the least moving part which will be close to your hand. Present it well and evenly and you will find less accidents.

I did it while I worked a full time and part time job as well as sport and dog training twice a week totally doable as long as you stay on top of the reading and dont get behind like any course if you find concepts hard to get your head around ASK! Either here on the forum or your teachers, if you dont totally understand it can make progress slow or hamper you understanding further concepts. And dont be afraid to ask, there is no such thing as a dumb question we all have to start somewhere It's a good course, I'm glad I did it. I currently have my own dog training business as well as train at a school on the weekends as well as rescue/rehome. It's a good place to start.

Apparently its in Picton. phone number on the advert. Got a QH up for sale too wonder how 'friendly' he actually is