Nekhbet

Why? Why avoid a problem instead of working on it? If your dog keeps breaking at the same time point it's that point which is your problem. Go back a step, recall her before she breaks quickly and heavily reward. Don't plug away when you know she's going to make a mistake. Also keep moving, side, back, zig zag etc so she's busy focussing on you and not sitting there blandly. Mix it up a bit, the problem is there because in some ways its not being fixed. If she does break before she hits the ground give her some form of feedback she has made a mistake and start again. We use uh uh or no as a signal to the dog it made a mistake - just gently not as a gruff punishment. Have patience and you will fix it.

With that many dogs I would start with barriers. You call the dog, put the bowl down in front of it and give it a command to eat. If it leaves it's bowl you pick that bowl up and food time is over for that dog if it wants to play like that. Finish your food or go hungry. I still supervise but the older ones have learned when they finish go off in your own direction. When you're teaching though if you see a dog make a move off it's bowl towards another you simply give it a gruff command to leave that other one alone. Food time should not be overly exciting. Otherwise I would be removing the food and until they settle down, no meal, miss out. Supervising multiples is always a good idea anyway, I still keep an ear out to what everyone is up to. The pug still goes in her crate because she's messy and needs a special meal so she doesn't choke. I have taught mine while I'm trimming meat etc in the kitchen that if I call a name and throw a tid bit only that dog is to catch it and eat it, the rest are to leave. If you control the resources and have verbal control over your dogs there's no reason why you can't do what this woman does. As for a feeding time.... try this many

no because the bowls are not the dogs. I don't let mine scout out either, they finish and off you go otherwise it would be a full on brawl as they're too evenly matched. If you teach the dog to eat from the bowl in front of them and when it's empty that's it you don't have issues.

If he bites you scruff him hard and give him a stern NO and growl. If he's chewing your hands thumb under the tongue. It has to be aversive or he wont remember the lesson. Deal with it then adn there. He's trying to get to other people because you have not taught him the value of yourself. If he wont listen, drag him away if you have to and regain his attention when he calms down. Haredown whippets is right, he's not stubborn he's an untrained puppy you're allowing get away with bad behavior. Put him on a collar and if he's choking himself, walk him away with quick pops to the leash. If he was that uncomfortable he would stop pulling straight away. If he goes to dash off or pull give him a pop on the leash before he does it and call him back to you for a reward.

I find it one of the best ways for nervous, shy, anxious and reactive dogs to change the way they think. Takes a little time but the results are long lasting because the dog has learned to use it's brain through the whole process and corrects it's own behavior

don't give in to puppy tantrums already, it's a slippery slope. Nice soft flat collar and a leash is all you need, and time and patience. Start in your front yard, stand still and call puppy to you, treat from your face level and have pup always look you in the face to get a reward. You need to teach focus, no equipment will help you with that

you're aiming too far too fast. You're trying to flick her straight into positive associations while she's already anxious about a situation and it's too much pressure. Aim for neutrality first. So when people are near the dog learns they are nothing to be concerned about. You be the one feeding her the treats close and closer to people until she's almost on top of them and not caring they are they. You need to clean the association slate per say, have her concentrating and in a thinking mode before you can then get her to start associating people as being slightly positive (and not too positive or you get a dog that doesn't listen to you!) For showing you don't want her to be bouncing all over them anyway, use the stand for examination as an obedience exercise, so neutrality towards strangers (they're neither scary nor exciting) and they will touch you but don't worry about it, focus on me.

That dog wont be looked after if it is a 'spoil of war'. Poor Malinois, let him go home

Pity you're up there or I'd say come join us in Geelong :laugh: hey it's not that far to drive really

dane mix doesnt rule out dog sports - there's tracking, scent detection, LandSAR, agility, etc :) Obedience is a great start if you want to tighten your own skills too, you can always branch out later I know there is 4 Paws up near you but I don't know if they do competitive obedience.

The point of the vaccine schedule is to create immune memory, not just a short term flood of antibodies. To titre test a pup that young so close to a vaccine is quite useless as he will show antibodies. Finish the course, give him a booster at 12 months after the last then titre test 12 months after that one to see if he has immune memory. The body creates cells that lay dormant after a big enough immune response which give the immune memory. When the body comes across the same pathogen again down the track these cells come into play and pump out those specific antibodies. If the immune response has not been sufficient you do not have these cells created and hence your dog is technically not covered. It's why dogs with unknown vaccination status are recommended to get two vaccines a month apart. And yes, the first vaccine is pretty much a write off due to maternal antibodies but it needs to be done. If your pup is having that many problems at such a young age I would be contacting the breeder. As for the loose stools, you reintroduced rich food way too fast for his tum and thats why it reoccured.

ummmmmm welcome to Victoria? Again? Yes the pure white is a bit of a joke. I think Dr Google had a lot to do with the new standard.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STARMARK-INTERLOCKING-EVERLOCKING-TREATS-LARGE-LIVER-FLAVOUR-/321305925954?pt=AU_Pet_Supplies&hash=item4acf535942 They are still available overseas, I heard the problem was they changed manufacturing from USA to china, then hated the product then swapped back to USA made. Then because of all the paperwork having to be redone because of import, sizing, packaging, manufacture etc it basically became a PITA to try and get them to Australia. Same happened with all the toys that contained a free treat in there as well. I just ended up selling heaps of pickle pockets and loaded up on the toys the odd times they were in good supply when I was buying them in bulk just over a year ago.

The dog redirected onto the child under high stress, which is a mistake on the owners behalf. If the dog is good with the family it sounds like the family needs proper advice to manage and train the dog, not suggestions of euthanasia. I know a person in Tas who had problems with his dog and he went all over to try and find a school that would provide a proper training environment for a dog that wasn't a roll over rover. He ended up being asked to leave or left himself when the trainers went to put their hands over the dogs head to 'test' it.

I think your management and reaction has been a bit wrong. I can see why he's doing what he's doing, but I can see the holes in the training allowing him to do that. Can you email or message me with how you do things so I can give you some suggestions?

When it accidentally nicks a major blood vessel and there's no one around to help her in time. What an idiot.

Forgot to add that part in, otherwise you will have a thousand kitties to feed in no time O_o

Go find some semi feral kittens, 8 weeks old is the best. Lock them in your hay shed for a few weeks, feed them in there and let them do what they do best. They will learn to live out there and empty the place of rodents no problems.

Dogs do benefit from some carbohydrates in the diet - they're not obligate carnivores like cats and ferrets, they're scavengers. The point of the grains in the VAN for the most part is not to be digested at all but to help with the passing of food through the digestive tract and as a fiber source. It's why you see it in the poo.

structure, time and persistence with her. You can also purchase Troy Behave paste which is a totally natural, non medicated calming paste 1ml per 10kg bodyweight (you cant really OD on this stuff and it's cheap as chips!) every day, even twice a day at the beginning to 'load the system'. Minis can ramp things up to 11 but sounds like she's still feeling very lost from being rehomed. For dogs like her too 'safe zone' creation can be a savior - so say a nice crate partially covered, tv on, food, bones and toys in there and encourage her to go in there herself when she feels anxious. That type of thing taps into dogs natural denning behaviors that we don't see always, but you will notice particularly in frightened or 'wild like' dogs. One of my bitches was left to wander feral for months, when we first got her the first thing she did was dig a den under the bushes and hide in there when she felt threatened, which was a lot at that stage. When my late GSD was in pain with his hips he scraped himself out a shallow den under another bush and would lay there. You will find creating this type of safe zone they can stop with the whining and howling too as they become conditioned to relax themselves you could say.

Trisven is so right. I remember when my rottie had it and I made a quarantine area at the vet clinic (I was the nurse) and the boss shouted at me for scare mongering when visitors wandered through Coronavirus has similar symptoms and is more difficult to treat then Parvo, it can be mistaken for it a lot of the time. Your little one will pull through, persist and don't give up no matter how thin he gets. My rottie pup took three weeks before he could eat a teaspoon of food but he pulled through.

I stopped feeding chicken carcasses due to the stink. I must have just found it really hard to find good super fresh carcasses because my dogs always stank after eating them. I feed lamb, beef and *gasp* pork bones. My butcher sells bags of off cuts, very meaty, and sometimes there's a pig tail or 3 in there :) My latest find there is half a cow pelvis :D $5 buys me hours of endless peace and quiet with the most tenacious bitch with that one! If it's not a weight bearing bone, it's edible. How your dog copes with it depends on how used to raw bones they are in those quantities and if they're getting a reasonable amount of fiber otherwise. And as always, size proportionate. If you think they may swallow it, go up a size. Larger then head size is a good start, you would be surprised what a greedy dog will try and swallow. My old Bordeaux tried to swallow a whole, yes WHOLE, chicken once. Tried was the term ...

The ear canal itself further down usually doesn't need to be flushed as often as you have to clean with an outer ear infection. My cure all for red, bad, manky ears is the sea mineral dermal ointment (I think virbac make it) just wipe up the gunk with a soft moist tissue/gauze and give it a good coating with it. OK day one it burns a bit but it clears it up quickly due to the salt content. The other option is Paw Paw ointment on the red skin (never push anything down the ear) as it's a fermented product. Both products worked a treat on my Rottweiler and Pug.

I more mean when the deer is partially mobile at home.

A fallow paralysed for 14 months? Sorry, I don't agree with that poor things life. She also risks massive injuries when she's partially mobile and tries to spring, most deer snap necks and legs from one sharp movement in a confined (and sometimes not even that confined) space.