Nekhbet

put him on lead while he's in the house and have him with you until he learns the house rules. Better safe the sorry with new dogs, you have a fabulous opportunity to start good habits!

err yeah I'd be carrying the pup not letting it walk about where other dogs go. Consider a pup with only 1 vaccination unprotected.

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pd...of-practice.pdf this is the NSW code of practice ... where does it say you cannot keep your dog in the house? It has space provisions for backyard/house dogs?

that goes for any piece of equipment out there. What I dont understand is when people go 'I would have preferred to use positive only but we had to use corrections' and make it sound like the dog is being tortured in the process. You are using a positive method - you are actively teaching the dog what is right and wrong in a manner directly proportional to its behaviour and making a difference. I dont see how anyone can get any more 'positive' then that. Corrections that hurt or cause detrimental behaviour to come from it are wrong, and hence not training the dog but simply causing it confusion and unneccesary pain. Prong collars are not for every dog out there just like haltis aren't, flat collars aren't, harnesses aren't etc. I dont see them as a last resort tool, frankly they should be the first tool for some animals that need training. I agree with Malsrock, the tool that helps the dog and owner learn the fastest are what you should aim for. I dont see it as a 'shortcut' or 'copping out' because I dont chose to plug away at an ineffectual method that wont produce permanent results. No dog training is instant, but a dog can be calmed and controlled to enable learning quickly then whats the problem?

But this is what the state government calls a puppy farm - and they are the ones who matter in all this.http://www.dpi.vic.gov.au/dpi/nrenfa.nsf/LinkView/C757A284948AA4A4CA257601001B6D6818CDE14E012AB3A0CA2573FA000E 0AC8/$file/01229%20COP%20Breeding%20%26%20Rearing%20V2.pdf this is current COP and from the Domestic Animals Act 1994 Councils seem to be able to make their own minds up on how to enforce these legislations. I do find it a bit sad the RSPCA is hopping on this for publicity sake - the fact that the photos on their facebook where provided by animal liberation ... the RSPCA can prosecute people for not providing veterinary attention to an animal and they dont. Go for Oscars Law, not RSPCA. They want pet stores to stop selling animals, newspaper advertisements and websites like petlink. They want to stop the mass factory farming of dogs and having them treated like livestock and make the governement actually implement a worthwhile animal care campaign from all the registration fees they collect.

Lilli has central asian, not caucasian ovcharkas sounds like someone out to corner a market since they're not quite particular about what breed they get.

I was also going to say contact the vet uni and ask if they are willing to take on the case as a learning experience for their students

Dont bother with internet advice get a behaviourist in NOW to show you what to do and how to deal with it. I think you took a bit far of a plunge personally considering his behaviour in the pound, but you have him now and you need to get help ASAP with his problems. Firm boundries, no leeway, and you need to get your confidence up if you wish to train a large, boistrous, untrained dog. He needs to be taught to settle, what is NOT acceptable and to simply listen to you. Most of his behaviour seems to stem from simple lack of control (not you but learned in previous home) As for the barking, get him a crate, and put him in there. If not, at least the laundry. I'd be throwing him a big bone in there too to keep him quiet.

so what makes them worth even that much? For something that doesnt even have a standard as it's "a guide not a straightjacket". I also like how 1st generation minis are now stud dog purebreed individuals. christ if they're going to try and least make yourself look professional and not put out dogs that look like bulldog and frenchie crosses pulled from the pound. There is some absolutely atrocious minis out there being bred from as 'top class' and it's actually quite sad. ETA Bouledogue Français are French Bulldogs.

If Paige is already eating that amount of processed products she's not fussy ... she's just the kid that prefers McDonalds because it's salt, sugar and flavoured to the eyeballs. Saying that none of those products are good for maintaining dental health in the long run. If they disappeared from her diet totally, then was not offered a treat but the other dogs were, you watch how long she can hold out before she tries to scoff the new ones down.

I want to know where the massive price tag comes from

aussie bulldogs were british bulldogs put over pig hunting crossbreed bitches then pups selected from there. Bulldog dad x thingy

if you've got a new pup why not spend a little more at least during the growth stages and get something decent. Vets All Natural mix if you dont want straight raw, or something like Advance, Iams etc.

unis dont teach you dog/animal behaviour or really nutrition. THe pet food companies like to give a talk about that One girl I went to uni with, now graduated, tells people that dogs shouldnt eat raw meat because it will give them worms and to use dry food only.

Kramar make cheap muck. I also wont purchase Wanpy treats or anything from Asia. There are enough products made in Australia to cover what you need without resorting to cheap junk that is potentially harmful. Blackdog stuff is great, smells good but their pig ears and rawhide chews are from China. Canadian pig ears are now available in stores who want to stock them, they are not irradiated either the distributor has assured me.

can you loop a leash around his belly, and when he goes to sit give it a little wiggle? I'd also start getting him to learn to just follow the treat hand, looks like some old training is coming in first. Do you give him any commands before starting?

A dog has no need to mouth you aussielover and when one day the dog (god forbid) is under enough stress to panic you see the difference between a dog trained in no mouthing and one that is allowed to mouth. It can be mean a doctor visit or just a lot of noise. You just have to be persistant when he is held now you have that ball rolling. How are you holding her? Some dogs dont like being on their backs. I find some food in a closed fist to distract the pup and reward as you go along can help the process be a little nicer then just a wrestling hold If the dog bites you again slip your thumb back under the tongue and press a little harder until she gives in. Dont say anything at all, ignore the dog but apply the correction. Remember to always praise if she doesnt bite you As for throwing her head around, when she gets to that stage, get up, ignore the dog. Break the game. Dont give the pup any attention for stupidity. The basics are generally: bad behaviour - ignore if you can, or punish to the required level if you must to stop the behaviour good behaviour - always show the dog what is good and reward for compliance A LOT!!! people tend to be quick to punish without a lot or good rewards. Would you go to work with a boss that gave you lousy pay, little praise and pointed out everything you did wrong without showing you the right thing neither will a dog. Good luck with the beagle!

I don't think it's smart and dumb as in a human sense. Some breeds and individuals are less motivated to please you or to work. Without motivation learning takes longer or not at all. Does that make it stupid? No not at all. Ever dog has the capacity to learn, if they didnt they would not have made it out of the whelping box. I also think environment has an incredible amount to do with it. I have seen supposedly 'stupid' dogs that have trouble learning. They are usually ones that have had few toys, little stimulation or training. It's true, use it or lose it. They look at you with that blank stare and confusion, it's terrible to see When the light finally clicks you see the real personality. The saddest ones are the dogs that do not know how to play with toys, I worked with one dog that would play with nothing because he was so supressed by his owners fear of him nipping him or the kids if they held something/pull washing. I waved a rag and he backed off shaking like he would get in trouble for it and his prey (guarding breed) was just so repressed he was in avoidance. Seeing dogs running or being excited his finally released like some banshee on a lead. He was blamed for being incapable of listening or learning properly ... now who's fault was that?

To the original poster here are a few things to consider - how much time do you have for a dog. Is it a little bit here and there, do you rush between care, work, kids after school activities etc - why do you feel your family is ready for a dog? Will it come inside or will it be outside all the time and only played with when the kids feel like going outside? - are you active people ready for your choice of breed? Labradors are retrievers, bred to be on the go and active. Do you have time to fulfill the dogs need for mental stimulation and training (this means more then just a walk a day) - if you want a puppy - are you ready for another baby. It's the same thing as having another child learning, time and effort wise. Turn your back and they will be into mischeif! Actually I think labradors are a dog for a narrower scope of family then they are given credit for. They are a big, boistrous active dog that wants to do things and if they dont will make their own fun (digging, chewing etc) They also require a decent amount of training to be happy. Many people see them as guide dogs and think, wow they're born that way! Eeeep .. no. Many many months of training goes into that and only in those that pass initial assessments. If you have not owned a dog before something out of its puppy stage would be my recommendation unless you are particularly dedicated to a pup. Older dogs can still easily bond with their new owners, but a lot of the hard work can have been done for you which is great. Also some breeders have older pups or adults available for rehoming, something else to consider. Apart from that maybe a smaller, more homely companion breed if you are keen on a dog but do not have the time for an overly active one.

ahh yeah Tapf, Cosmolo is underdog training

I met one ... the noise emitted from it was frightening ... yup a veterinary degree doesnt come with a guiarentee of logic or ethics does it

the dosage is 30ml per 500kg so for your dog you would need 1/4 ml. What you can do is squeeze a whole 1ml into some meat or warm water then give him a quarter of the whole thing

they dont burn holes. If they are too tight they can rub against the skin and wear away the hair. There was supposed reports of 'burning' but it turned out the owners had left it tight on the dog for months and it simply rubbed holes into the skin like any pressure point would. like I said just get a replacement collar similar and put a little weight on it or box to simulate if he's outside at night so he thinks its on his neck all the time

I've been experimenting with Excel Good Manners paste for horses ... 2ml in a large dog, within a few hours a very noticable difference

you're talking about bitework which has some difference to teaching something like pure obedience in prey. You dont want to flip a pup out of prey too early unless they are ready for it. Now you are dealing with more then a dog chasing a sleeve in prey, we're wanting a dog to stand its ground and try and actively fight the decoy. Push that too hard too fast you break the dog. When I said pressure I dont mean it in a purely negative way. All heightened reaction places some type of pressure on the dog. Thats how they learn. How they then deal with that pressure comes down to genetics and training I dont agree with this either