Nekhbet

why do I have this image of Jeff commando crawling through the salt bushes with a bag of dog training equipment on his back in the middle of the night, nimbly dodging the border patrol

after fight 1 and seeing this behaviour why did you continue to have them within reach of each other? Two bitches once they start, especially the breeds you have, will not stop. your american bulldog sounds like it has bad nerve and it was taken from its mother way too young. Sounds like it also has issues recognising and showing normal dog behaviour and body language which is common in animals taken so young. You need to get an experienced behaviourist in who has handled these behaviours before and get their help, this is not something you do alone. You have two very strong animals and as such need to provide management measures for them. You should consider your bulldog dog unfriendly when it comes to rehoming. The only responsible owner would be someone with NO other dogs, experience in aggression and dogs with poor/weak temperaments and large breeds. Option 2 if a home fails is to take her to the vet to be euthanised. I know it sounds harsh but truely experienced homes can be few and far between especially for dogs that have proven themselves fighters and caused damage to people and animals. eta true aggression is not a fix, it is about management. Your dog is actively engaging another dog to harrass it and then fight it. It will always be about management especially since her critical period it totally out the window. Also I dont think anyone will guarentee results. I wouldnt either. We're not talking about training your dog to hold a cookie on its nose, we're now delving deep into the primal instincts of the dog. It also comes down to genetics, previous experience, behaviours and especially the capabilities of the owners as to how far a dog can go.

a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid in a litre of warm water enema is safe (unless you use a lemon one LOL) it's getting it up there thats the fun bit Castor oil, just a teaspoon and plenty of water to drink to help soften the poo.

A few working dogs worked up will strain on the leash, watch videos of some operational dogs out in the field and they're almost pulling their handlers over they're on big thick leather collars so really it doesnt do that much to them. No dog you expect to rely on will comply with constant rough handling. You can't teach them. Those dogs are willing to work, high drive animals. Considering the cost of an operational animal treating it like dirt wont get you very far. Lhok some could have been wolfdogs (which are GSD x wolf) but most are not

correct him for showing interest. It's the only way to shut down the drive totally. Anything else is just redirection or smoothing over. of course, your choice. The problem is we cannot watch our dogs all the time. As Vickie has shown, proofing comes from applying a consequence to the action - show ANY interest in cars and you get a correction. I dont use verbal corrections because thats why you have a collar attached to your dog, to do the work for you PLUS you may not always be there holding the leash. My Malinois tried to chase a motorbike ONCE. Got the correction of the century but I didnt give her a verbal reprimand. When she was sitting there "what the heck was THAT" I called her back to me and rewarded her for complying. She learned motorbike = bad, mum = awesome. Now you can start any machinery next to that dog and she doesnt give two hoots, because mum has the good stuff. Corrections simply help tip the balance of good and bad more to your favour.

honestly ... you have no need to encourage nor capture that type of behaviour. Teach him to speak, but to push your dog into a growl and work on capturing it is not advisable unless you are experienced in these matters (and saying that, if you were then you would not need to ask on here) Once you encourage a dog to perform a behaviour and make it a highly rewarded behaviour the dog will want to perform it more and more. To train a dobermann to growl, you may find yourself creating a dog that just wants a reward but ends up intimidating someone instead.

malinois are meant to be a fine boned medium sized dog. We're too used to seeing some over sized, well fed specimens here in the west. Some of the dogs look like GSD and GSD x Malinois. This looks more like the opening/closing display for the comp then the actual comp itself. The first one had 1500 entrants from all over china in 2000. as for heelwork, if my operational dog doesnt plaster its face to my leg staring at me I wouldnt care. It's more important it has its mind on the job then perform a trick.

get a light horse lunge lead

pit bulls are known for their agility skills its what makes them such multi purpose dogs I dont see the problem if the dog knows what its doing and is controlled.

how is a pit bull non working? Nice to see such a fit happy dog

I'll be running the dog school but the other trainers will be there ... yes there should be a pharoah hound there today and some spritely border collies

the inability to digest bones again comes from his previous diet and stomach pH being too high so the body rejects them. If you keep slowly introducing minced carcasses you will find his tolerance should go up, but it will be a slow process. My dogs have always eaten raw meaty bones even if they have dry food, and trust me a whole pig head dissapears including the bones, all they leave is the teeth.

I find the ethical nutrients high strength liquid fish oil to be the best of all for my rottie, 1 capful a day fora 50kg dog

sounds like his digestion is still getting used to the diet. Remember a dog on highly processed low protein diets have a higher stomach pH then those on raw - ie less acid. Their digestion is so not used to having to work it tends to upset itself more easily. His body is also now getting used to a more liqued form of food as well compared to the dry food. It's like putting yourself onto a totally raw health freak diet after years of eating junk food it takes a while to adjust. Give him a couple of smaller meals per day if you are only feeding one, and add some yoghurt or inner health plus to his meals as well. You will find in time he can be weaned off the 4x2s as he adjusts.

check chains should be loose. Not hugely so that they hang low but so they sit slack, when the collar is pulled tight (ish, so you can just get a finger under) you should have no more then about 10cm of chain pulled through the ring. Pinch collars need to sit higher on the dogs neck, considering their tightening action is limited if they sit very loose then they do not work or have a risk of opening themselves up. http://leerburg.com/fit-prong.htm

rudducks.com.au

nutrigel is a complete dietary supplement and is meant to be an appetite stimulant although in all my years of using it, it hasnt really been one. Keeps the sick ones alive long enough to get them eating eventually though especially lizards and birds

wow find a new vet if a hot spot costs you that much! You can do most of the treatment at home. As for Pyoderma, it may not reoccur again but I would be putting the pup on a decent diet anyway

nawwwwww if you get sick of him send him here need a holiday project the dog was overstimulated due to the handgun, hence everytime he went to touch it and the dog arced up he threw it to the ground screaming LEAVE and PHOOEY some decent drive training could have fixed that

aha see when you said flyball I though you meant actual flyball with jumps etc NOT obedience and socialisation classes Encouraging prey drive is a good thing. The problems come when it is not harnessed properly. A dog learns how fun and rewarding it is, if it does not get parameters put on when and where it can show the behaviour then it starts to exhibit it to other items eg, cars, cats, small animals, motor bikes, sprinklers, etc etc. I train in drive, I think it's one of the best methods for highly active dogs with drive to burn. Two of my dogs are drive trained and go mad for toys BUT they have been taught they cannot show that level of drive to objects where it may become hazardous (or just plain annoying!) to do so. As for youtube, again that dog is young and in prey drive. That is simply an extension of tug of war, and the drive helps the dog work through its anxiety of noise/hose/stick. That dog is no more dangerous then your own, just a lot more driven. I simply used it to illustrate what a dogs prey drive can help it overcome and the levels it can push an animal to, nothing more.

if the drug has been approved for off label use then it is the vets responsibility he uses it correctly. Like using ivermectin for treating mange.

this to me suggests it's more then a passing phase. The video was just to illustrate really what drive in a dog is there to cope with if it has the mechanics for it. I didnt say not to praise either, but I think a correction with a chain is more effective then a squirt eta I deal with a lot of borders who show this behaviour, and especially with cars it's worth teaching them they're totally off limits and not worth considering now matter how potentially exciting they may be.

if s quirt bottle fixes the problem the either the dog has a very strong aversion to water or the prey drive truely wasnt that high if you could break it with a squirt of water here's what prey drive can cope with http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wu6o29CFc0

It's not a german shepherd it's a malinois. Too much prey drive, no control and hence he's wrestling with a dog that is in an over excited state. Considering these dogs are bred to take a lot of physical punishment and not come out of drive he's being a complete dick about the whole thing. how about remove stimulus, settle dog down and do some control work ... too hard for some people.