Nekhbet

belly band. When he comes inside put it on him and he wont be able to mark everywhere http://www.ehow.com/video_5226229_use-belly-band-dog.html since you moved it's common for a male dog to mark, new scents etc. Just watch him like a hawk, keep the belly band on him and if you see him cocking his leg a simple 'uh uh' and take him outside to wee.

I cant imagine what kind of poo comes out the back end either

yeah could be fun ... I have no problems going up to his car window and asking wtf he wants and if he doesnt leave the police will be on the scene for stalking eta he may have thought you were someone else he was looking for

uni's over ... i'm free if you feel like a 'walk' with a rather large male DDB and myself

he's way too old to be eating slop. He needs either a decent dry food and some good raw meaty bones or follow a BARF diet. Either way canned food and weet bix add nothing really nutritionally

has she been using corrections? Why not settle the dog instead of wait it out?

particularly bad the kids helped drag the goats back to the truck, all by their horns what a bunch of rednecks, honestly.

I found a video of the event A farmer loads up a truck with feral goats who have no handling at all, attaches them to carts and then they hope for the best. THose animals must be terrified out of their brains

What else are you teaching him? sounds like his brain is just not being used. You go out and he sees the world then he's hyperstimulated! For him the day has just begun! I would be doing a lot more obedience and obedience games with him, some tracking/scenting would be great to get his brain tired too I would use his crate as his bed. Blanket - boring. You're asking an adolescent gun dog to sit there and do nothing. You'd get up too if you want him to stay there at least give him a chew toy or long lasting treat like a big rawhide chew etc then he'll be happy to stay there.

he needs to have his drive channeled into something more productive then piercing at birds. How much scenting do you do with him and how hard do you make it? I'm trying to think up something that emulates hunting, that is easy for you to do and that will satisfy Billy's drive ...

of course there is. In the wild not all bitches become pregnant and cycle together playing happy families. Only the strongest bitch goes on with the top male to make a litter. Males, they come and go, their fights will usually be a lot of BS and posturing (my two decided to fight, it was the dumbest fight they just latched on and went MUUUUUUUUUUUUUUM HELP WE DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO NOW!) whereas my entire bitch, if she takes a disliking to another dog that's the end of it. That dog must be subdued by all means, she's extremely dominant and i'm not stupid enough to add another mildly dominant dog to the mix. A bitch is the carrier of the new generation, she will fight harder then a male will when it comes to superiority. We put dogs in an artificial environment and have multiple dogs that would naturally have been far from each other contained together. Then when they rip each other to shreds we wonder why. All I can say is that if you want multiple bitches, and have them reasonably evenly matched, build yourself kennel runs.

just to add the reason I dont like forcing a dog to out is I want it to stay in drive. Especially in something like bitework a dog in high drive will not want to end the game, and hence you see people wrestling items away from the dog. I started my dogs from day one and I have them releasing without argument or trying to hide it from me because they learned it's not end game, it's simply a break and more fun will soon follow.

you gradually start moving the other item further and further away from sight until you can hold it behind your back. THen you phase it out completely. Trouble is now you have this other learned behaviour so it will take a little longer to 'get' dont let him have free reign of the toy at all. It's always in your hand when you offer it, play some tug then offer another. At the moment he's teasing you with the toy and teaching you what to do

yup OHs old family dogs ... staffy and a blue heeler. Staffy scalped the blue heeler and tore off its ear, then had to be PTS as the injuries were too severe to fix

that or the dog was an import

ok watched the trailer ... call me old fashioned I see the crate as a place the dog can relax and I want it to shut down its drive, not use it as an extra piece of agility equipment or am I still confused

yes a few people have chucked them out completely. Sad really considering they are a great tool when used properly. Throwing away equipment to me is simply limiting your training abilities

do you play tug with the dog? Seems like he thinks the game is ending and he doesnt want it to hence he controls the reward there is 2 ways of doing this 1) have a toy on a string (so dog cant run off with it) - give the dog the command to release the toy and immediately reward with food - rinse and repeat, immediately reoffering the toy when the dog has swallowed the treat 2) have 2 toys, both only in your hands (no throwing or fetching etc) - let the dog play tug with one' - wave the other toy in its face and say the release command - when the dog grabs the other toy 'YES' GOOD DOG! - rinse and repeat so you go from toy 1 to toy 2, then back to toy 1, then toy 2 etc. Great game to play while you're sitting down both ways the dog learns the release command does not mean the end, just a break in the exercise. Dont make the dog sit inbetween etc that is not the point of the exercise, it is to teach the dog the faster you release your object the faster you will get a reward. Number 2 is how I taught all my dogs to Out and I can tell you I have never had a problem with a dog retaining an object or running off with it - that behaviour holds no reward value for them at all so why do it?

can I say you have me totally confused crate training the Nekhbet way have crate open feed dog all meals and treats in there only, when dog goes in say 'INSIDE!' or 'BED' or whatever you please when dog is comfortable close door while eating gradually increase time door is closed dog now happy to be in crate For dog that have to learn quickly due to emergencies etc put a bowl of food and something to eat that takes a long time to consume (RMB etc) put dog in crate praising only when its not showing resistance, shut the door cover most of crate, keep other dogs away to decrease that 'trapped' feeling and intimidation ignore dog if it carries on like a pork chop ... all the dogs i've had to train like this have not fussed or tried to rip the crate apart, most go straight to sleep *grunt* oog me dog trainer ...

they do a good job like noisymina said. I found Good Manners made a difference in all 3 of my dogs within a few hours (I tried it as an experiment) It didnt knock them out just made them reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeally chilled out and not reactive to little noises etc.

no check chains are one of the most common collars used, people call them choker chains. prong/pinch collars are illegal to use in Vic. Heck of a lot better then check chains in my opinion but oh well, them governments peeples know best I suppose

its a paste made for horses and dogs, vit B, chamomile etc. I also use one called Good Manners, you get it from feed stores. If it chills my Malinois out it'll fix anyone

crate and behave paste. Start a routine, he stays in his crate until you say so and thats that, wear ear plugs so he cannot wake you. You're rewarding his behaviour in his eyes because you get up and let him out.

there is two options permanent separation and call an experienced behaviourist. Apart from that there is little for us to tell you over the net when the behaviour has escalated to this level.

You dont wait to see signs of aggression, you permanently separate. If it's not one thing tomorrow they will find something new to posture about, or worst, when you're not home. What do you mean by a dog therapist? A behaviourist delves down to the behavioural cause of problems. Reality is not all dogs are fixable, or some people expect we snap our fingers and their dog will never misbehave again. Again, when dealing with aggression, and I mean true aggression, sometimes you can manage it, other times it's not fixable at all. Thats reality. The fact you have not tried an experienced professional and would instead prefer to pass on a problem dog to someone else is worrying.