Nekhbet

she looks a little lean in the muscle like she hasnt been doing much but she is a rather long backed dog which probably makes her look leaner. Yes I agree too many people are used to a stocky overweight amstaff Add my Malinois to the dogs to be mortified at, my mum came over and had a fit. She has muscle but at 7 she isnt a fat dog and runs around all the time. She eats about a kilo of raw a day at the moment so hey, she's not being starved at all.

I thought shed deer antler were mostly calcium (ie dead bone) as the only vascularised part is the velvet which sloughs off when the growth stage has completed.

presa canarios are in a whole different class to Cane Corsos ... although also not a dog for the newby owner I'm kind of glad in a tiny way we dont have presa canarios here in Australia. We cant even handle the basic breeds we have let alone such a specialised, primitive breed known for its ferocity. Think of it this way, a totally untrained dog from the show ring does this in its second session with a trainer (saying all that I would LOVE to own one :D) happypaws Ataraxia kennels breed South African Boerboels, they're in NSW. They also breed Dogue de Bordeauxs.

Personally I would send him back. It's not fair that groups send out dogs like this, it is their responsibility to make him safe for the community NOT for you to now fork out for professional fees particularly if he's the type that lunges and grabs at other dogs.

you need to get professional help ASAP with her. What she is doing is not really healthy especially for a dog of 8 months of age. My bitch is a bit of a bully the way your quinn is but she's not as bad as she used to be. If Quinn starts telling Mac off when you do get to her before she tells him off. If she makes a move towards him when you chastised just 'AHH, QUINN NO' and move her away. Its not her job. She's top dog in that house for sure, dont mistake some obedience tricks for rewards as you being her leader.

what does the vet allow her to have. Would feeding her more times during the day be useful (say 3-4 smaller meals a day) which will increase the amount of food overall but not flood her system at once.

no I dont trial him I do it for fun. He can do the dog walk, a frame, cant do tunnel he doesnt fit He has a bad back so we only do it occasionally and weaves are out due to the pressure it puts on his disc. He can jump onto a dining table with ease so jumps are no issue, he's just too bone idle to do a lot of them thats how fit Dogues should be.

considering a dog can drag a bike into oncoming traffic quite easily or itself get tangled in the bike I dont see it as a stupid law.

why dont you just get a kelpie bitch but from a good breeder. Any dog can be a resource guarder, you just need to get a softer bitch from a good breeder and train it will so your boy doesnt become make his problems greater then they are now. Just having another dog around can be seen as a challenge to a dog with problems so you will have to work with desensitising him to other dogs around anyway. If my bordeaux can do it I think your lab can. He's just not used to the range of movements required so you have to start them off slowly.

If her diabetes is stable I wouldnt worry about one kilo at her size unless she's being dangerously underweight. I wouldnt be sacrificing the stability of one thing to make a change that really isnt that important. I also dont worry about numbers when it comes to weight. Feel the dog, see the muscle/fat she has, where she feels a little lacking etc. Getting caught up in numbers doesnt necessarily make a healthy dog.

It may not be full scale aggression, just an aggressive response now that he's mature and thinks he's all that and then some Keep him on a long line and I would be calling someone to come have a good look and give you some tips on how to curb his behaviour. Yes he is a cattle dog and they tend to bite first, ask questions later BUT that doesnt mean he has to be like that. Avoid places where dogs just run at him, its rude behaviour and gets dogs into fights. Your boy wont tolerate it just like you wouldnt tolerate someone running into your face shouting and waving their hands in your face either! If there are dogs about start teahing him to come to you, call im over, reward heavily for being a calm then send him off again. Repeat so that recall means just come to you and not that his play time is over. Never be upset with him, if he wont listen tug on his lead a few times and walk off in the opposit direction with his favourite toy/food. Make yourself better then he other dogs at least as a beginning until you get a trainer in. It's what you will need to do anyway

yup the bloke who owns the place has a pig on the back of his ute when he drives around geelong

Dore your dog sounds like she has something more then flea allergy, I would say either environment, contact or diet is contributing. Like I said Frontline Plus and Milbemax would be my option if I had your dog. Frontline is the preferred choice for animals with flea bite allergies like my dog, one flea bite and he tears himself to shreds. Ear mites are something I dont really worry about. Maybe I'm just lucky but in 20 years I've never owned an animal that has had them.

dear god why would you put that many chemicals into an animal. Especially recommending it to something like a bichon that will spend most of its life as a house dog and have little chance of getting parasites let alone requiring monthly chemical flushes like you recommend. Do you worry about long term pumping of chemicals into animals or do you just read the pamphlets that the drug companies hand out to you and take their word for it. Dore if you're wanting to use a product I would try Frontline plus once a month. A general allwormer (I use Ranvet allwormers for mine, they are purchased generically) every 3 months when the dog is 6 months and onwards. Saying that my dogs only get wormed if I notice a problem and I use no flea treatments at my place at all. If I notice a flea I use one dose of Frontline and its over - it kills the adults, kills larvae and pupae and prevents any fertile eggs being laid in your house. Considering you're in the ACT you can use Milbemax monthly to cover all worms as well as heartworm.

with such specialised diets I would ask the vet for a list of allowed products or what levels of protein, sodium, fat etc to look for when searching products.

Poor poppet! I'd be getting that investigated by a specialist before just finding a long term alternative so you can at least know whats going on and it doesnt snowball into something worst as she matures

why cant she have raw meats and bones yet can tolerate cooked? Deer antler is a raw product, technically a raw bone

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one dog was barking and both were not well controlled - what do you expect when you reach down over a tiny already anxious dog?

he's a big dog for his age anyway and he's not going through baby puppy growth. I wouldnt worry unless he's turning into skin and bone. As for hand feeding unless you want to do that the rest of his life just put the food down, come back 15 minutes later if its still there and he's not eating it jsut take it away until the next meal time. A dog is not a human and for some reason we're obsessed with thinking this way. Its a dog, if the food is good for it it gets what it gets. My lot can eat the same thing for months and it always goes down faster then the bowl can even touch the floor. Instead of fiddling with a growing dogs diet as well is it not better the pup eats a premium dry all the time and is at least getting the right ratios of Calcium and phosphorous? If raw meat has not sat well with the dog flooding it with raw meaty bones might either cause constipation, vomiting or obstruction. If anything I would be adding a spoon or two of minced carcasses, and up the amount every few days of consistent normal poos to let the digestive tract acclimatise itself to raw meat and bone digestion.

I know its hard. My rottie cant be walked his legs cant take him for more then a block or two. So he goes on a lot of car trips so he can see the sights but doesnt have to walk around

If you dont know anything about a breed DONT make a suggestion. Dutchies in Australia are extreme, they are for high end working people not just someone who wants one for some weekend trials. They're at the extreme end of the working dog scale. If the propsect of a working line Malinois is out of the question, dutchies are a step above and have more then just prey drive.

out of character behaviour warrants a vey thorough vet check. As for the snapping was the dog facing the baby or not when the growling started?

Sorry maybe these comment threw me about you wanting a dog on the fact it was novel and makes you stand out. I've seen Steve Austins spaniels and if you get anything to that degree I think you will be over it quickly if you're not after dogs that want your attention all the time. It's not that dogs like this just want cuddles all the time its the fact they want to work and just keep at you to do it. Can they relax? Yes. Can they be lower drive? Sure. But then if you dont want such an in your face dog just get a show line to muck around with when it comes to spaniels. I think even my 3 dogs would drive you spare if you met them considering how much attention they want from me, but I like that - it makes them easy to train, loyal, calm and hey, thats why I bought a dog. Like I said the only way you're going to find something you like is to go visit breeders and see if their dogs breed suits your needs particularly because the rarer breeds mostly have not really been proven in the trialling ring to date. For some breeds there is a good reason for this, the dogs in this country may not be of particular quality for that.

If you want a sporting dog I wouldnt get another beagle unless you want to take up hunting or tracking. Their dogs made to glue their noses to the ground and your life is easier if you just use the drives your dog has instead of getting a breed then trying to funnel its genetics into the second best thing it could probably do. I'm not actually sure what you're after though. The more common breeds are there because their breeding and drives are so well suited to the job. Most sporting dogs will be very attached to their owners as well, thats what they're bred for and when you train in drive mking yourself the ultimate in that dogs world they want to be with you A LOT. If you simply want a pup from certain breed because they're novel and rare, I suggest go visit breeders and have a session with their adult dogs. See the parents of your potential pup and see what their drives and behaviours are like, its the only way I would purchase a dog I wanted for a specific purpose.