Nekhbet

your dog is bored ... incredibly. In the house so much with comparably little quality stimulation must be driving the dog nuts, hence now she's tearing the place to pieces. Put yourself in the dogs shoes, but give yourself no books, TV, game stations and minimal human interaction ... you'd be doing the same thing. If you have no fence does that mean your other dog lives on a chain outside? Why dont you build a dog run for them so they can run and play together, and wear each other out. Otherwise get her walking, training, brain exercising a couple of hours a day. Bull breeds were never built to be mostly inside dogs that do nothing. This dog doesnt need crating it needs to be outside.

nope, no dog really 'grows out of' magically. If you want to stop biting you stop it on the spot. Dogs dont learn skin is delicate, they learn through consequences that biting is not acceptable behaviour, thats what bite inhibition is. Really? Did you know it can be incredibly dangerous to one day just alpha roll an adult dog showing this type of behaviour? I know plenty of trainers who scruff and pin pups/young dogs who decide to take a chunk out of people. If its all you do its incredibly pointless, but if you catch the little brat in the midst of really bad behaviour, scruff, pin, roll in one quick movement and then let them up and show them what the right thing is, it is useful. BUT either way these people need a professional hand to help with the pup.

I meant the main structural cartilage of the outer ear that helps hold ears in position in both cropped and uncropped dogs - the degree and thickness of other cartilage throughout the ear will be breed dependant eg something like the Malinois radars will have a thicker and more prevalent cartilage layer throughout the entire outer ear structure then many cropped breeds like Dobermanns, Schnauzers, Baucearons etc. Cartilage is a non-vascular elastic structure made primarily of collagen and has no nerves in it. The skin itself on the outer ear as many of you know is well vascularised (anyone who has had to deal with a harmatoma will realise this) but you will also know how well dogs deal with ears that have been sliced and drained then sewn back together after a massive injury or haematoma. Many dogs easily walk around with torn ears and dont give them a second thought. Having cropping done early would not be any more different. This same thin skin though can predispose them to easy bleeding, frostbite, haematomas or infections from constant injury. I would rather my dog go through an ear cropping then an abodominal surgery at the same age.

oh please ... and having a vet ferret through your abdomen to cut out your uterus and ovaries is a walk in the park ... we see this as bararic but no problem depriving a growing puppy of normal growth and development by cutting out their reproductive organs. ear cropping was done for a few reasons. 1) to prevent frostbite in the extremities of some breeds 2) for health consideations in floppy eared breeds and 3) to prevent damage during work. Tail docking was a similar thing done. The old style crop was different to the stupid floppy, pointed crop it evolved into. Having dogs that work and seeing ear/dew claws/tail damage and how it affects the workability of the adult dog I wouldnt say it's a bad thing. Have your car/house covered in blood, or see your dog in pain because of a poorly formed tail/ear and you see why it's done. It's done by veterinarians under anaesthetic and removing a flap of skin on the ear you dont remove cartilage as you need that to retain the structure of the remaining ear. taping is done to help train the cartilge to stand in the position, taping is often done in a lot of breeds not cropped to help their ears develop the proper structure for the show ring. Personally I dont agree with the ban. But there wont be vets who know how to do a beautiful job anymore in this country. I'll have my cropped and docked import one day. I think a well done job is really attractive

sounds like a spoiled Min Pin ... I know a couple that are not readily touchable or that pull this kind of behaviour. My aunt has one that hates being touched and when you do she screams like a stuck pig. Nothing wrong with her at all, she just squeals ... until you have food she wants then she'll harass you like a blowfly Zorro are you in NSW or Vic? Steve is in NSW

In Australia you can breed a dog and register a litter as long as theyre both on main register and you have a kennel name. Apart from that there is nothing else to preclude you from breeding as many pups as you like with whatever dogs you want to use.

because in dog behaviour referring to something as a negative/positive as in bad/good is technically incorrect when we want to really mean the application or removal of a reinforcer. We muddy the waters which we have these days hence making things more confusing. So calling it purely positive training is not technically correct since we have to use negative punishment, in some cases positive punishment through the use of sound aversives. In some cases positive punishment can increase the value of positive reinfocement from the handler. We have come a long way but I would like to think we better understand the proper use of positive punishment and its value in dog training when used properly, just as much as we have the value of properly done positive/negative reinforcement.

negative reinforcement is the removal of an aversive to reinforce a behaviour - what you are referring to is positive punishment. Positive reinforcement is the application of an appetitive stimulus to reinforce behaviour. The world is also 'aversive' - an unpleasant stumulus NOT necessarily something that causes pain. If you're going to discuss the theory have a better understanding of it. Being a good 'pack leader' is not all about the application of aversives. Its about being a decent teacher to your dog and being a consistent, firm leader. If you have leadership qualities the dog will listen - if you act in a nervous, uncoordinated manner what do you think the dog will learn? Its not all about Koehler and alpha rolls you know. I belive the dog requires consequence, every organism on the face of the planet experiences them, it's a fact of life. What that consequence is though is dependant on the dog and what it requires in order to learn. Modern dog training is not really a totally modern concept. Its simply the ommision of other methods to hand, so relying on positive reinforcement and negative punishment (the ommision of the appetitive stimulus when the unwanted behaviour is shown) to handle and teach the dog. Its not more effective, its just a hands off method. Too many 'modern trainers' also band about the 'dangers' of wrong timing of corrections, their ineffectiveness etc as if you're about to permanently scar your dog for life. Funny spend half an hour with majority of owners and they can grasp it, when some trainers seem to think they cannot. If you can time a reward you can time a correction. Not every dog on the planet can be fixed or controlled without corrections, saying that not every dog on the face of the planet needs one. Hence 'modern dog training' is incapable of helping every type of dog or problem, it is tailored at a specific niche of the pet dog market.

ahaaaa .. BB and Cesar Milan are two different ballparks. Cesar Milan I would trust with a dog, BB I would not. Just because they use similar terms does not mean their philosophy is the same. Were the first persons dogs maybe waking and not wanting to settle when drunks go by? If that is the case then yes, I would say some control exercises wouldnt go astray but there's very little detail there.

ask trainers if the will help rescue or take on a pro bono case. No point being a rescue if you cannot fully help the dog to what it truely requires. And not fair to pass on the problem to someone hoping it 'gets better' with home made advice. I dont mean to be rude but if you dont have the money to do more then simply feed and basic vet a dog then maybe reconsider fostering cases like this that require specialist attention. If the dog cannot be helped and the behavior keeps snowballing your hands will well and truely end up tied.

dont read, attempt or DIY anything eiher contact www.k9pro.com.au or www.petresortsaustralia.com.au

This dog requires medication and intensive training, without it dont bother rehoming this dog. Also just rehoming him to somewhere with another dog wont be enough - what if something happens to the other dog and the foster has to be left alone? Using a dog as a crutch for such an extreme problem is not the solution. I had a foster like this, he screamed and smashed his way out of several enclosures, once without the full use of his legs while coming out of anaesthetic. He then started showing guarding behaviours between me and people/dogs. He couldnt be contained or happy so I put him to sleep.

yup I've used it on my own teeth. It's a slighty salty flavour, not that bad really. Off baking soda tastes repulsive and bitter Store it somewhere cool, dry and out of the air. You dont use tonnes of it just a little scrape, but being a basic substance it helps neutralise acids as well as adds oxygen to help whiten without damaging the teeth.

... please dont kick your dog. If you have to resort to that call a professional to help you.

you should only need to do it a couple of times when they're still babies. I wont put an age on it specifically, I have done a few 5-6 month olds who have acted like turds

just to add scruffing is more a puppy action then an adult dog action. Scruff most adults randomly and they will turn around and mouth your hand to tell you to rack off - it's a different thing when they're older

I think dogs with a lower tolerance is more normal then those who stand there and get bashed up by other dogs. Some people are just too unrealistic about what a dog should tolerate. If any dog comes up to my bitch her first reaction is to flatten them to prove she's the grand poobah, then she's happy for the rest of the day. My other dogs will too accept behaviour up to a point before telling off others. Remember dogs will learn off each others as well

baking soda you make into a 'toothpaste' consistency paste with water. I know the scraper wont get in under the gum but soft brushing everyday at the gumline is better then nothing, then scraping off the big bits with the scraper. Start at the gumline and work down the tooth so you dont stab the dog Erny Nylabone make dental chew toys, they have little nobbles on them so you can smear them with something your boy likes to get him interested. http://www.naturalicious.com.au/index.asp this company make novel protein dental chews as well.

none of it is reasonable. This dog is a young dog, but not a baby puppy. Tell them to contact a professional trainer for help before this dog becomes a) really really big and b) totally unhandlable. A dog that is also socially nervous is not a good thing to have either, I cant imagine what vet visits would be like.

not all shelters use drugs to euth dogs. If the dogs heart had stopped from lethabarb there's not coming back from that.

puppies are noisy, in fact you should not be trying to stop them! They need to get out their energy and enthusiasm its natural canine play separation is a good thing. Teaching them now to sleep in separate crates would be my idea, and spend time with one while the other munches a bone/eats dinner. Sharing is good but I dont allow dogs to eat out of each others bowls or steal food from each other.

I dont mean just bones that do the trick. Cheap foods that contain colours and other junk dont help. Brushing teeth, scraping them yourself and providing other objects that can be gnawed or chewed can do the trick too. Get plaque early enough it should just crumble off anyway unless its been there a while then it's a pain to grind away during a dental. you can buy proper tartar scrapers online. If your dog lets you have a pick at her teeth often and meanwhile just use a kids toothbrush and some bicarb soda My grandmothers jack russell x doesnt get bones, all he gets is carrots to gnaw on since he's a massive fatty boombah. His teeth after over 10 years are not junky or caked with plaque although after telling them to stop feeding canned food his teeth are not as stained.

I'll smoke in the car but only if the windows down on my side and it all goes out there. Funnily enough I smoke but I cant stand second hand smoke, work that out. Mum smokes inside, I think its the cause of her pomeranians cough. Makes me dehydrated just sitting in there let alone a toy dog. She's finally smoking outside now he had to go to the vet and found his heart murmur has gone from a 1 to a 3

yes and the strays they missed simply walk around with their legs crossed do they cant escape the attitude can you.

Enough to hold them, but not causing a lot of pain. You can tell if the inevitable tantrum is real or not by releasing a bit of pressure, you find most pups carry on like a banshee regardless. The funniest are the ones still protesting when you move your hand You dont pinch when you scruff you use a handful of the skin along the neck. If the dog is wearing a collar be cautious not to tighten that too much. Never lift a pup or shake it, you simply firmly hold the pup and grumble until it settles, then release. Trick is if you have to sit there for a while, you sit there. Puppies come back for round 2 because they're not really calm, people simply think they are. People have too much patience with biting pups. The first time any dog goes for me it gets something unpleasant - now dont read into that as pain. I dont cause pain. I simply cause enough discomfort and give no attention to their protests and from the word go that is the last time I get a nip, mouth, bite etc. Young or old. If the pups still nipping intently after a week (or three) get into a decent puppy preschool or go see a trainer. ETA remember too to always offer enough things for the pup to redirect to. I dont believe in a world just full of 'NO's particularly in young pups. Hence why I dont talk to them when I'm teaching them not to bite me - there is no engagement offered in biting me. But play with the toy I give you woweee watch me then interact excitedly. So pup knows if it wants to play or bite something grab a toy and we're good to go.