Nekhbet

You will not legally prove the method is failing when it is something put forward by so many organisations including the RSPCA. It's training that doesn't look like it's causing stress to the dog hence the blame is thrown onto the animal as 'defective' or requiring euthanasia. If you need help with your dog without medication feel free to contact me, we have many years experience in aggression and aggressive responses.

This dog was trained by my stepfather and was homed with a job. He is living a wonderful life and is very loved. There are no other Beaucerons in Australia at this time and no breeders. Anyone who wants one will have to import.

Come down for a visit I'm only down the road from you www.inlinek9dogtraining.com Yes we specialise in quite a few issues and have many western suburbs regulars

IPO itself is not illegal, bitework includes massive restrictions on the handler and dog. When they changed the laws IPO and the K9 security industry really took a dive. Very sad indeed.

Unexplained aggression will need a thorough medical examination by a good vet, I would recommend that before a consultation anyway

You can bring drive out in quashed dogs I have done it plenty, even with dogs I have had given to me. Your problems are not unfixable, just require a bit of effort. I am in Geelong if that is close to you.

Bunnings is far from cheap in a lot of instances. Look at places like Reece, Plubtec, Masters etc The fittings prices at Bunnings are just insane for PVC. If you go to a plumbing store ask for low pressure pipe and fittings even if you have to modify the diameter. Cheaper as it's not as high density but stands up to use fine.

That is both assault and theft. Why is it OK because it's a puppy, what if that was an inanimate object he owned? Turds the lot of them they need to be locked away.

Pet Resorts Australia is Satzkom GSDs and Rottweilers, nice dogs don't have to be a full working home

There can be multiple training issues with this, firstly one has to consider there is not a proper out under that level of stress and then the dog is finding 'stress relief' for lack of a better term by not outing. The dog could also have a lack of handler focus. There is also a possibility of 'loss' has been introduced in the training and the dog is resistant to outing because he will 'lose' his prey item instead of realising there is further reward potential by engaging the second decoy. Depends how the dog has been trained the out, you can find a lot of problems stem from that process.

When a dog reaches bite suit prey only is not the driving factor - otherwise the dog would, as you say, come off when there is a lack of movement. Suit work has an element of fight and defense in a dog, prey only helps in maintaining the action and providing some reward factor. A dog at suit level should calmly grip and push in even if the decoy is not moving at all and be totally on the command of the handler when it is suitable to out.

Troublesome behavior and being a nasty turd of an animal comes down to lack of socialisation and training more then the fact he has testicles. The vast majority of difficult behvior dogs are desexed with my client base. I have entire dogs, they're not more difficult then the desexed ones I have. I run 7 dogs together when I am home, 6 are bitches.

Malinois bitches are not that huge. My old girl has been about 24kg her entire life, look for IPO lines they run finer

Good to see - better body size then the pure showies though if you notice. It's like the 'show' Malinois. Totally different beasty. ETA The last comment was more as a 'on average' comment then a blanket they can never do it. There's labradors and aussie shepherds with IPO titles, never say never!

Groens and Tervs etc don't do KNPV/Ringsport/IPO as a rule ;) they have no need for the body mass and bone structure

You need a decent body size in order to perform their working purpose. My bitches are 25-30kg my male at the moment is 35kg

Bites to a suit especially in KNPV have specific target area for the safety of the dog and for operational viability. An ankle bite is totally useless and risks the decoy falling on the dog crushing it. There is also 'better' angles in order for the dog to achieve full grip and maintain it with clear airways.

I have not had a lot to do with dutchies to be honest, I was thinking about one but I do not see one I like so far so I'm sticking to my Malinois. If you're after an IPO dog I think delving into the non FCI gene pool is not a good idea considering their primary aim is not sport, but to do the KNPV then on to deployment. It's a lot more comprehensive then IPO could be as it's about the end product not the breed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZATNWf5emk Kampftrieb do not produce ANKC dogs but they do not profess to. Frankly the importance of it is a little redundant and limiting yourself just to the ANKC registered gene pool here in Australia is genetic suicide for the Malinois as it's full of the same few dogs. It's why my pockets will be lighter soon... The KNPV has nothing to do with the FCI. A dog can do KNPV with our without FCI registration, it's a title. I have ANKC registered Malinois and all the dogs behind them are KNPV titled because I won't use IPO titled dogs, chalk and cheese for what I want - it's akin to mixing a WL GSD with a straight show line as far as I am concerned. AMAX-1 is right, in a lot of european countries function rules - if it's brindle it's a dutchie, if it's not it's a Malinois - because performance and the ability to pass on those key genes is important for maintaining a strong pool of working dogs. It's where the rumours of KNPV malinois being 'dodgy' and 'not real' came from here in Australia, a few people didn't realise what the situation was and a few others exploited it. The 'black Malinois' thing too shits me. Call a spade a spade, it is from the mixed gene pool, nothing more, nothing less.

http://www.workingdutchies.com/ Call Chris Jones and see what they're doing he has Dutch Shepherds FalconRange Belgian Ring is very different to Schutzhund.

If the owner has to resort to this then the owner and dog are not ready to be on the streets as it's doing nothing to help dog or owner. Obviously she's not getting help or the advice she got is to me, junk.

Get goats milk from the supermarket and start that pup chewing on raw bones like brisket bones. Nothing swallowable at this age until she learns to chew and swallow properly but she needs to cut her teeth and be introduced properly to fresh foods. 2kg?!! That is going to need a lot more then a couple of tablespoons at a time! I was adding some nice fatty mince to my pups feeds of milk too. I got a dobermann pup at 3 days old and she's almost 6 months old now. A 4 week old puppy cannot be left alone and despite the fact they can regulate their own temperature it's not brilliant particularly in a short coated breed. I would be getting a little jumper for her so she can be outside. Also start socialising this dog A LOT to loud noises. I put my pup next to the sub woofer of the TV stereo as she was growing up, and handle this puppy very very firmly every day. You have the opportunity to raise a pup that will not mouthe you so no allowing to chew on you or anything else.

http://leerburg.com/training-articles.htm there are also videos available free for them to watch, and free articles. It's a good start, the videos are clear with examples

If the dog responds well keep using it. Don't let a dog that big get into the habit of pulling and frankly those breeds to NOT need equipment around their face. In warm weather it can interfere with breathing and they need a lot of air intake to cool down properly. Work on focus, don't keep just yanking on the leash ask the dog to respond first, mark, then reward. The leash and collar are there as a back up consequence if the dog tries to pull to remind it. The main thing with mastiff types is be patient and do NOT rush. They are not super quick border collies, they take time and some obedience positions can be uncomfortable for them to perform due to their size so make provisions. "As we approached she walked to the nearest fence and wrapped the lead around the fence and held on to the lead like that. I was a bit alarmed but it seemed effective. " All this does is help the woman hang on and frankly a few trainers are using it as a 'training' method. It teaches absolutely nothing in fact it puts you backwards and simply 'deals' with the situation at the time. Different equipment that actually works and decent learning theory removes the need for this type of thing.

It's in how you do it. Most owners fumble around, keep talking at the dog and when the pup goes back after a correction they think it doesnt work. If he comes back again, do it again and firmer this time. I never say a word, let them throw a god awful tantrum or what ever. Be quick, like a viper, and very firm saying nothing. You will see the look of when it sinks in. The key is persistence and consistency. It's not fun to mouthe sometimes then when it gets too hard finally get on top of it. All or nothing. You wont hurt the puppy but a dog can hurt you later when it has no barrier in it's head that says 'don't you dare do that'.

Puppies need to learn biting is unacceptable. No toys, no yelping or squealing. Scruff the pup hard the second it lays teeth on you or you slip your thumb under their tonge and press firmly to get the point across. Any teeth on humans for pet dogs is TOTALLY unacceptable so you make sure it's super clear. You don't need to time out the pup I offer a hand again and if they dont bite I praise and keep interacting. The only pups I redirect to toys are those that will be allowed to bite later. I'm not forming a blockade to that potential path of action I am simply redirecting their attention. If you want that go for gold with toys and yelps.