SALTWOOD

Yes I got one in the UK a few years ago. They are good but really you can get the same result by raking a #40 blade through the coat. The furminator makes it a bit easier with the handle. I use a combination of implements for carding, as not all coats respond to all methods. I have yet to find the 'perfect' undercoat remover.

Didn't know about it but it sound interesting. When and where is it on?

Bitches can have their first season at any time from about 6mths of age up to 2 years. Usually it is between 6mths and 12mths but the first season can be so immature that you don't notice it unless you are looking for it. You may notice - a slight change in behaviour, the bitch may be licking more, a slight discolouration or a small amount of blood in the area. If any of my bitches hadn't had a season by say 18mths I would be taking her to the repro. vet to find out why. Hope this helps!

Hi, Just thought I would add is that there are lots of obedience clubs in Sydney which I am sure you can locate an alternative club via the Royal NSW Canine Council. It may take you a little time to suss out another club whose methods suit you better and it may mean that you have to travel a little bit further but I would recommend that you try to take your dog to a recognised obedience club. Whilst it is possible to train your dog at home with the help and guidance of personal trainers, books, etc. but at some stage you really need to be able to socialise your dog and get it used to being well behaved when other dogs are around. Check chains when correctly used can be a valuable training aide, martingale collars are also good but you need to work out the best ones for you especially as you are only a small person and you have a large dog to control. Oh, and as far as the 95% bad behaviour goes when you first start obedience classes with your dog, the behaviour does gradually improve the more you train and the more classes you go to - even when it does seem overwhelming at times. We have all gone through that, I know I go through it every time I train a new dog and they are all different!!

In a lot of cases, no response can be the best response. By that I mean, dog jumps up, you stand really still, do absolutely nothing until dog gets down and sits. Or you can stop what you are doing and walk backwards or turn around and walk backwards, until you get a behaviour you want and then resume walking forward. I insist on respect from my pack but I found that it was a difficult time for me and a very exciting time for my guys at feeding times. I got sick of the mad rush of my pack to reach the kennels where they all get fed in separate runs whilst I was walking down there with all the food. There was runnings and growlings and leapings, etc. etc. all in all a very happy and exciting time for them but not for me being in the middle of it with my hands full. It was pretty much the only time that I didn't have their respect or feel that I was in control. So, what I did was just stop walking - it took all the fun and excitement out of it!! :rolleyes: They were quite stunned at first, all that jubilation and then nothing!! Quite a let down for them until they worked out how to make the food arrive quicker. Now they walk beside me cause they know it takes longer to eat if they misbehave!! ;)

Our last Dobe had to be PTS because of Wobblers which vet says is related to arthritis. She also had osteoarthritis for many years and had several courses of anti-inflamatories but like you at that stage I really didn't think that arthritis would be that devastating. Since then I also have developed osteoarthritis and can now speak from personal experience that anti-inflamatories can make you very sick if they do not agree with you. Anti-inflamatories don't agree with me so I can relate to your poor girl - I have to manage the problem in many and varied ways and have done quite a bit of research into the disease/condition. The most important thing is to keep the problem joint active - as the specialist said to me - use it or lose it. I think this also applies to dogs as well. While acupuncture provides temporary relief, unfortunately the benefits soon wear off, especially if you don't keep the area warm and active. Rubbing anti-inflamatory ointment is a BIG help for many humans, I wonder if it would be any good for dogs, I suppose they may want to lick it?? Since losing our old Dobe girl and adopting our new Dobe I have change a lot of things with all my dogs, especially their diet. I stopped feeding processed dry food to them and switch over to Vets All Natural plus minced chicken frames, chicken necks, offal, yoghurt, sardines, eggs, and other natural food. (something I try to pass on to the members of DOL) There is a proven relationship between processed foods and arthritis in Dobes and other large breeds. I also include Joint Guard and natural minerals to their food mix as a preventative. I really can't stress enough the feeding of natural food over processed dog food which usually contains high levels of preservatives and colourings. All processed food has to be preserved with something and if it isn't preserved with artificial substances then it is preserved with high levels of salt and we all know thats not good. You have my sympathy in your quest to help your girl - I hope some of my experiences may help you!

The general rule for feeding bones has always been not to feed leg bones of any kind. Having said that I do give my guys the leg bones sawn down the middle so they can get the marrow out but I don't leave it with them once the marrow has been eaten out. Big, hard bones fed on a regular basis can wear dogs teeth down and if they do split, the bone is very hard and dangerous. Softer bones like ribs, wings, necks, chicken frames, etc. are safer and usually can be completely consumed by your dog as long as the dog doesn't want to swallow the larger ones whole. Always pick up left over bones after 24hrs and toss them away. :rolleyes:

I agree Lovesdogs, that's why Vets All Natural is such a good and easy product to use especially when you go to work and don't have stacks of time to prepare dogfood. Combine VAN with minced chicken frames and any other whole food that are OK for dogs to eat and you have the best and easiest meal for any dog. VAN does have a fair bit of grain in it but then so does the stomach content of most of the original animals dogs would have caught in the wild! VAN is not the main ingredient of the meal, its ratio to meat with bone has been worked out for you on the pack - nothing could be easier. BARF is good but I was totally grossed out by the roll which is divided up into patties which usually are sold frozen and which totally dissolve when defrosted into a soggy, bloody mess - but it is still way better than commercial dry or canned dogfood.

I seems to depend on the age of the desexing. If he was a randy little so and so beforehand, then it may take a while. For the next few months he will be running on memory so you need to take precautions like the others have said. Some dogs never change but most do, so it is just a matter of time IMO - so hopefully 6-8 weeks!

Thanks guys for your help!

It can be a bit baffling initially but I have found there is a big margin for error in feeding raw/natural foods. Wasn't that impressed with BARF roll - only my opinion, as I could only buy it frozen and when it was defrosted it was very messy, so I looked around for something that was a bit more user friendly. If you want to take some of the guesswork out of feeding raw/natural then I recommend you visit this site - www.vetsallnatural.com.au The dry mix is a dehydrated mixture of veges, grains, etc. that you only have to add water to and allow it to soak before mixing it with some raw meat or minced chicken frames (available at Lennards). You can then add things like eggs, yoghurt, offal or whatever to the mix if you want - or you don't have to as it is completely balanced. You can feed chicken necks, etc. separately ie breakfast if you wish. Feeding raw/all natural food doesn't have to be messy and difficult!

Vets All Natural Dry Mix plus raw chicken frames, raw eggs, yoghurt, sardines, raw lamb flaps, raw chicken necks plus left over veges plus a variety of raw whole foods. I have fed my dogs on all the various premium dogfood over the many years that I have bred and shown dogs and have been feeding raw/natural foods for over 12mths now after quite a bit of research into it. It took losing a couple of dogs (not at the same time) under extremely distressing circumstances for me to decide to convert all my dogs to all natural/raw. I have raised my Dobe boy on all natural after taking the breeders advice. I was initially dubious about the calcium requirements being met but was amazed to see how well he did and is continuing to do on a raw diet. I have also raised and maintained small dogs on the same diet and they continue to thrive. There is such a BIG difference now for the dogs health and also in the poo dept. that I just cannot envisage going back to feeding commercial dog food. I believe that the benefits given to the dogs immune system by feeding all natural/raw foods is such a BIGGY that we should all wake up and smell the roses. I had a major issue with Eukanuba food and did not find the dogs did that well on Pedigree or Purina. Hills/Supercoat weren't too bad, Eagle Pack was the best of them all. I would NEVER feed canned supermarket dog food but will feed Pro Peak in an emergency. Fast foods have been proven to be unhealthy in humans in so many ways - just think about what commercially produced dry dogfoods are doing to our furkids, and dog foods don't have the same amount of quality checks or legal requirements on them that human grade foods do!

Yes we live in a rural area and he has several acres that are fenced to run in each day. Today he was playing chasings with one of his buddies (a smaller breed) who ran up from the paddock and onto our verandah, under the outdoor furniture and over a dog bed. The Dobe was fixated on the smaller dog and didn't register that the furniture etc. was there - CRASH! BANG! - into the chair, table and dogbed, legs, bum, etc. everywhere!!! ;) He had a bit of a rest after that one! ;) Restart obedience classes at the end of this week. As soon as he is trustworthy in his recall I will try to start him at agility - that looks like fun!

Itches can sometimes be related to or caused by food allergies. What do you feed??

Thanks Cowanbree I will try to get Sealegs here. Can you tell me what doseage rate you used on your dog ie. tablets per 10kg? If that doesn't work then I will try to get some Maxalon.

All very interesting to read - thank you for your replies. Maxalon & Stemetil I am familiar with for human nausea as I am allergic to both of them. I didn't know they prescribed them for dogs. Armed with this new information I think I will try the vet again. Edited to say: Quick thought - Can I use a human travel sickness tablet for a dog? And if so what would be the dose??

He doesn't appear anxious in the car. He is very calm really and lies down on the back seat sometimes looking out the window but it doesn't take long before the drool starts and then the up-chuck. I don't know why the vets don't take it seriously - they just say he will grow out of it. In the meantime I can't take him anywhere much. Even the short trip to dog training can cause him to vomit. What is Ace? It sounds like what we need. Is there side effects to motion sickness medication? Is that why the vet doesn't prescribe it? And Sealegs - I guess that is a human motion sickness tablet?

My 6mths old Dobe has always got travel sickness since he was small. I have asked the vet on several occasions and he says that he will grow out of it. The back seat of my car has to have several layers of plastic over it plus towels in order for me to take my boy anywhere as he drools and vomits every time, even for short distances. It severely curtails me taking him anywhere. I also must ensure that he doesn't eat for several hours before we go out so no spur of the moment decision to take him for a walk along the beach, etc. and going out for the day is out of the question. Does anyone know of anything I can give him to stop the vomiting and the travel sickness. I would really appreciate any help.

I always treat my dogs as not fully toilet trained because I know if they really need to toilet they will. So I have this mental clock thing going if they are inside and ensure they go out to toilet every 1-2hrs. That said, I have found that I take my dogs outside every 1/2hr from puppyhood until about 6mths, they can hold on then for about 1-2hrs but they regress at about 9-10mths of age and I have to take them back to the 1/2hr regime for a few weeks. After a few weeks of that they seem to remember toilet training again and can hold on for longer. Interesting isn't it! If it were me I would be cleaning up the rug, removing it when you can't supervise and then putting it down maybe in the TV room while you are watching TV and you can keep an eye on it when the dogs are around. That way you can pounce if they decide they can't resist that pee/poo on the nice soft mat!!

Ah yes - I am trying to be more pro-active as I don't need any more bruises. I guess it is an age thing and being such a big dog he is capable of unwittingly inflicting damage to those around him. He trod on my sandal this afternoon and nearly tripped me up - so awkward!! Dobes do tend to throw themselves around - Dobe before this one impaled itself on a stick just by galloping around in our paddock and flicked it up. The stick went in about 3cm - day at the vet with that one!

I always avoid feeding pork to my dogs, mainly because I have found it can cause diahorrea. What do you think?? Do you feed pork??

OK Lablover, I am not quite understanding what you mean. Stinking hot here at the moment and my brain is not coping! Can you elaborate please??

As I said Flashfire, you are almost there - your dogs will thank you for feeding an all natural/raw diet. Go on, take the plunge, you can always cancel your dry dogfood order!!

Hi Flashfire, how about stopping the dry food altogether and just feeding raw/all natural. In my experience feeding half natural and half processed food doesn't seem to produce good results. I used to feed the same as you for several years but was 'converted' to a fully natural raw diet by a fellow breeder and my dogs are doing so much better now. More natural fibre in their diet and very few digestion problems. You are almost there, just need to go the final distance and feed totally raw/all natural. Have a look at www.vetsallnatural.com.au which is a really clean and easy way to feed.

Yes, don't go for long walks but you can play in your backyard with him. Chasing a ball, tug toys, etc. Also you can start teaching him to walk on a lead in your backyard and to sit for a treat. That way he will be ready when he is fully immunised. When he is 12 weeks old and he has had his immunisations take him to puppy preschool. Socialising is important but you also have to be careful he doesn't pick up diseases before he is fully immunised. Good luck with your new baby!