Lablover

Could you explain your translation of bounceback please Vickie. I sent a dog to the US, who washed due to not handling escape/avoidance pressure. His saving grace when returned to me, was his bounce back from pressure conditioning.

I hear what you say, Lablover. The fencing is not ideal. I need 6foot colourbond though he's jumped that before. I'm looking for a new rental though finding a dog friendly one is hard. His training is as good as I've been able to give. I got him as a rescue, he was neurotic and had huge separation anxiety. He barked at everything and everyone. Didn't have a clue about other dogs, got attacked by a larger dog and then would yelp every time a larger dog came near - still does that now. Wrecked whole rooms and equipment, shoes. Now he sits, doesn't eat until I say, he returns a ball, I give him treats on every return, he drops on command, he's really a great dog. I've put hours of training in... but he won't come when asked to and won't stop chasing the cars. The improvements in him are huge. He is great. I'm trying the things I've read here and it's improving thigns a bit but this weekend I wanted to take him to the off leash area and he wouldn't even get in the car. Wanted to play chase with the car. I couldn't catch him, in the end got him into the house by luring him with my daughter's pet rabbit (which he'd like to eat given half the chance I'm sure) and then I was able to grab his collar. Its like 2 steps forward 5 steps back at the moment. I seriously wonder if I am really the best thing for him or whether it wouldn't be better to give him to a new home where he can get the attention he needs. I hate it when he won't come and goes all nuts. It's ruining our relationship. Do not give him the opportunity of not come back. He has obviously learnt bad habits, so in reality without -what do they call it - positive punishment (ie electric fence), and control/reward when loose, the behaviour will continue. After all he is having a great time.

For interest Vickie, did you enquire why the breeder placed the dog? From my experience there is no reason on earth, maybe....except for death or offered too much money, why a breeder places an excellent prospect.

Send her back to the breeder. Poor nerves, past history of being one of many in kennel, suspect elbows, allergy problems and one who is a reject. BTW, it irks me no end when people suggest a chiropractor. Not much good when a diagnosis has not been made. Good luck whatever your decision.

Do you have a dam nearby? With low cover due to snakes?

Vickie, should I reply from my retrieving/hunting point of view?

Good for you/us and your/our dogs. Dogs are not stupid.......I often think, as has been proven......we need to think like a dog.

I would let them retrieve individually. Bruno is learning to lose (to Bella), and thus confidence may be an issue. I would presume Bella wins over Bruno in most situations? Not ideal.

Obviously your fencing is not ideal, especially if your dog is not under control/supervision it has received great inforcement by finding the weak area, chasing and its training is poor. GSPs not that I have ever owned the breed, is one bred, who compatively speaking, has not suffered the show/working dog division. They are bred for "hunting"on their own and as a result control or (I cringe adding), biddability (or working with the handler) may be problematic. IMHO, you need to change your habits thereby hopefully changing the dogs. Sincerely, good luck.

Dogs can hear higher frequency sound, ie the silent whistle. However for dog training at a distance (factors including wind, heat of gound, ambient heat, cover, splashing through water etc) higher frequencies do not travel as far as low freqencies. The low frequency whistles are easier for us to gauge.

even going as far as a hallway/and then generalise in other areas. Added. Generalise/proof in other areas. See hopeless. LOL. YET ANOTHER THOUGHT!!!!! Trying to remember obedience requirements- forgive me, do not mix/have them close at first, directed jumping etc with the box/send outs. Including seek back requirements.

Retriever trainers train their dogs to retrieve hidden articles, so going to a short distance box is comparatively simple. Start with a place board with a box surround. We certainly do not use food in the place box, as we do not wish our dogs to eat the reward/retrieve. But then again, if a hot dog was placed in situ/box, the REAL fun would begin. Hi LL, how do you get the dog to go to the place board? I was contemplating a similar method. We start SHORT!!!!! The (WHITE!!) board is higher (obvious to the dog) to achieve focus, remember bumpers/dummies are in place. I certainly observe attitude and use a turn on cue. I may start with food rewards/feeding meals, if a youngster is crazy to retrieve, to settle the dog. Too much drive may not be best. We possibly balance attitude with seen retrieves to maintain good momentum. Game playing also, is very important as our attitude. Setting up training for the baby puppy to win/for success, even going as far as a hallway. Whatever works. Dogs do not "lie" a poor figure of speech, but really look at our dog and what they do naturally. On flat featureless areas with little or no distractions. Gawd, I hope I make sense, we move on to long distances (starting with HOT/known areas up to 100 yards with factors,wind,water, obstancles, diversions) so quickly, basics can sometimes be forgotten. Eventually moving to further distances, across rivers, going straight along shorelines blah blah blah. Am I making sense???????????? Gawd I am hopeless with drill/exercise explanations. Also our 15 year old labrador may need to be let go tomorrow, so I am more than a little stressed. I can find you some retriever links, if you like?

Retriever trainers train their dogs to retrieve hidden articles, so going to a short distance box is comparatively simple. Start with a place board with a box surround. We certainly do not use food in the place box, as we do not wish our dogs to eat the reward/retrieve. But then again, if a hot dog was placed in situ/box, the REAL fun would begin.

Isiss, These two sentences have me laughing, abet in a rather manic way, as it hit a nerve in my training enlightment. There seems to be more training books than cook books nowadays!!!!!! We all want to bake a cake in the "fairess" way. I think this link virtually covers IT all? There is really nothing new in dog training, at least since 1940's. I think the bottom line is KNOWING what WE want the end result to be, choosing a dog who is hardwired for the job, sound temperament, good health, reading our dogs and consistency. Does everyone agree this link basically covers IT ALL? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operant_conditioning

Such sadness. Good for you trying to find hope for your dog. Unfortunately there is no real cure for the conditions, simply treating symptoms. I should imagine joint (hip) replacement surgery would not be an ideal situation for either you or your dogs. One thought.......do not feel shy in asking your vet for a second opinion. Or that mattter more opinions if you would be more confident or at ease. Your vet, likewise human doctors are normally very happy to provide clinical notes/referrals, xrays, including surgery outcomes or any other information. Good luck++++++++. Quality of life is sooooooo important. Sometimes the greatest love we can show our dogs, is letting them go. It is so difficult if they are young. Most are so stoic. In your case is there a kiss lesion on the other elbow? What type of elbow dysplasia? One elbow joint and both hips?. O dear...........such sadness.

So you cannot use the online ticket printer on the VCA site for obedience trials? No wonder it never worked for me. Being a computer dunce I thought the problem was on my end. Tired writing out mutliple entry forms. Recently finally requested from a friend, who Emailed with attachment, an entry form. Easy nowadays. Wish we had a computer entry service like they do in the US for retrieving/what they call field trials. Makes life easier for club secretaries as well. $2.00 fee. We are so behind the times in Australia. Grrrrrrr LOL. Seems the only time I write out a cheque is for dog trials.

Question please........do people use the book of purchased entry forms via ie Vicdog site, or photocopy completed forms.......or have a permanent entry form on their computer, nowadays?

Do you have an edition of an US magazine, Clear Run???, which contains some sweeeeeeet ideas. Mind one I only have this particular issue (which includes my favourite author - Pamela Reid) focusing on agility ---drive/control (Thanks Tim). Happy to send it to you.

Sonic, you have obviously been too focused on retriever training and trialling. Never forget you and darling Zac competing at the Royal in UD. What focus and drive he had in every endeavour.

Poor dog. I doubt all (fearful) stimuli can be controlled enough to help especially to rehome. Would like to hear of the outcome.

This is a significant error, you are reinforcing his response. As you are already a member of a club, do not feel shy in asking for help. Try to arrive much earlier to class or stay around afterwards. Hopefully there will be some kind experienced person. You can test your dog for reactivity in so many ways. The secret is finding the best way to try to change behaviour.

Normally at obedience clubs, downs are trained from the sit position, is this a normal progression at your club? Dogs drop all the time, as you see your dog drop around the house (if he is an inside dog), use these opportunities for success. Some dogs feel nervous (for want of a better word), in the down position (possibly frightened for whatever reason). You may like to train off your bed or place your dog in a higher (comfortable)position. Having your dog higher, you can have the added advantage of the lure/reward lower to teach as long as he is stable on a sit or whatever position. Down is a simple, once taught. With good timing you will get there - so will your dog!!!!!!!!

Bless you for being a foster carer and finding him a home. You and others have my utter respect. I think it depends on the experience of his new owner, how diligent, consistent and training they are. Most dogs learn place very easily. Personally I would start him off in a crate, at the very least, he is contained. Keeping the landlord happy is important. Remember years ago when crates initially were introduced in Australia, so many people totally freaked. Mind you, I do worry some have taken confinement too far.

Yes they are fine but I find that I prefer one I can hear as a reassurance to me! Here is something I found on canine hearing Humans can hear sounds approximately within the frequencies of 20 Hz and 20,000 Hz. Anything below 20 Hz, typically cannot be heard although it can be felt. This can be experienced to when you feel the bass of a song. Likewise humans normally cannot hear any sounds above the frequency of 20,000 Hz. Although human hearing is limited to this frequency range, many animals have a wider range of sounds of which they can hear, like dogs for example. The frequency range of dog hearing is approximately 40 Hz to 60,000 Hz, of course depending on the breed of dog as well as its age. Like humans, dogs can begin to go deaf as they become older. In some breeds of dogs it is natural for them to go completely deaf in their old age. As an animal that hears higher sounds than humans, a dog has a different perception of the world as opposed to humans. One example of this is the dog whistle, which is above human hearing, will catch the ear of any well hearing dog. A vacuum cleaner, which merely sounds loud to us, can produce a high frequency sound which may scare dogs away. As a rule of thumb Sound decreases at a rate of roughly 6db everytime you double the distance ie if the whistle was 120db 1 metre away it would be 114db 2 metres away and then 108db 4 metres away until eventually the sound level was below any background noise such as cars, wind, leaves etc so it is not so much how loud the whistle as how much louder the whistle is in comparison to the background noise. Thanks everyone. I had forgotten this past post. Luke, good one!!!!!!!!

I am generally a KISS person, suits my personality.....keep it simple stupid. A nice fence around the small grass area. Or a temp fence - extinction training, or whatever the behaviour experts call it? Dogs generally do have their favourite "emptying" places.....if we control them as they toilet, we can create HOT areas.