espinay2

I have one that lays like a frog - always has and no doubt always will. Caused me no end of stress in the beginning - good sign or bad sign? There are people in both camps. As has been said, only way to know for sure is to x-ray. Score on this dog is 5:5 (done at 2 years of age - this is a below breed average score) so I am reasonably happy it is not an issue for him at least.

Personally I dont mind competing untitled dogs against already titled ones. If they are good enough to win, they will. I remember the Sydney Royal when they tried splitting out a champions class with challenges offered only for the other classes, though the champions competed for BOB. Entries for the show dropped significantly so they didn't try it again. Having a numerically smaller breed does have its frustrations, but so does having a breed where the entry is stronger. A good dog can earn a title very quickly in a numerically strong breed. In a smaller one the quality may not be represented by the 6 and 7 point challenges the dog has to make do with. And which is better - a mediocre dog who beats lots of other mediocre dogs in its breed or one high quality standout whithout much competition in another? Each has its plusses and minuses but in the end it all evens out. It is a system that works well for the particular demographics in this country. What I would rather see introduced is a veterans class. Not sweepstakes, but a class that competes along with the others for BOB etc. Lets highlight health and longevity rather than titles in how we structure our classes.

Nobody knows? Anyone?

Things that get my vote include: International judges - In particular from Europe or Scandanavia Places I dont have to lug the gear too far. With a giant breed, the gear is HEAVY and I have a bad knee. Somewhere I dont have to fight for a place near the ring - I like to at least be able to see what is going on. Shade in the ring in summer! - particularly for group judging - having to stand the dogs out in the heat for too long is not something I like to do. As a result I simply dont show much in summer any more. Online entries - yes it makes it MUCH easier to enter. ETA - forgot to say toilets that dont take you all day to get to and dont need you to line up for half an hour to get into. you shouldnt have to take a packed lunch and a compass just to get to the loo!!!

I want to get heart certifications done on some dogs. Trying to find a cardiology specialist is like trying to find a needle in a haystack it seems!! No listings that I can find (unlike ACES eye scheme who lists the specialists). Anyone know where I can get the testing/certification done around the Canberra region? Or know of any clinics coming up around here? thanks!

Hormones and the fear period can do funny things to a dogs mind. Agree with the suggestion to take her out of the ring for a while. Pushing at this stage can often cement the fear. Instead take her out and just let her have fun. She can go to shows even if she is happy with that, just not in the ring for a while. Once the hormones settle she can go back in and generally if not allowed to develop the fear in the ring by pushing them to be there, it will be like it never happened. Important too is how you react to her fear. Don't comfort her or cajole her as if you act differently they can think that there really must be something to be worried about. Be very matter of fact, casual and relaxed - a sort of 'come on, get over it nothing to be worried about' attitude. Usually they eventually see that you are not concerned about it so they are not either. If you take her to a show, use an empty ring to have a game in. No pressure, just fun. Make it a fun place to be.

Yes, a great article!!

A couple of things you can do initially: Create an 'apron' on the fence. Using strong mesh (rural fencing mesh is good), reo or 'sheep yard fencing' (which is strong mesh which comes in sheets 6m long and 70cm wide) etc, lay it out along the fence on the ground, attaching it along the bottom of the fence (so it cant come away). Weight it down well with rocks, tent pegs or dig it in at an angle sloping away from the fence and cover it with dirt. this will prevent the dog digging under all along the fence and is a better/safer option than just patching here and there. Create a separate temporary fence about 1m or so back from the boundary fence. This will prevent the dogs meeting up either side of the fence and egging each other on etc. Making sure they cant see each other is good too - fixing shadecloth or weed matting to the fence can help.

Mine are each about 2.5m wide and about 7.5m long (one panel wide by three panels long - panels from Metalmart in Fyshwick ACT). They also each have an inside shed area about 2.5 x 1.5. Our houseyard (about 2 acres) and orchard (about 1.5 acres) are fenced with rural style 'rabbit' mesh to a height of 1.5 metres (5 feet) with a 30 cm lap at the bottom (we used 1.8m mesh). We had rural gates made to 5m as well. My dogs are not jumpers (more likely to push under) so this works well to contain them when we are home. We have another 'dog yard' area of about 1.5 acres that will eventually be done the same way. This fencing is not cheap! (no fencing is cheap) but is cheaper than some in a rural setting where you have a big area to fence.

It is not so much about showing or not showing but rather about being INVOLVED in the dog community. It is about learning and continuing to learn. It is about keeping perspective and being critical of what you produce so you are always improving. The social and professional contact you get by showing can help, particularly someone new to breeding, to make those connections. It is not the only way, but it is one good way. Showing BTW, is not about being out there every weekend (though some do this). I have shown to greater and lesser degrees over the years. some years more than others (and right now for me I think I have done only one show since last November). but I have found the contacts I have made over the years (through both showing and obedience) to be invaluable. In my breed I know a lot of top international and well respected breeders (overseas) who only do a few big specialty style shows a year. But they have earned their respect by breeding good dogs (who take out the top awards at these shows and others) and by being involved with the breed in other ways too. They dont breed in a vaccum, but know what is going on in their breed and elsewhere and have developed the contacts and respect over many years. But this can be a hard thing for a 'newbie' to do - so when it comes to showing I always recommend that someone has a go, even if they dont do it all the time or only do it occasionally (eg a good way to go about if you dont want to show all the time can be to show for a while to title a new young dog then sporadically at the bigger shows or specialties in between. And/or show a young dog in conformation to title then concentrate on performance sports such as obedience, agility etc etc once they are a bit more mature). It is a lot easier later on when you have more experience and contacts to make the decision not to show if you find that side of things is not for you. JMHO

Oops yes - 3 generations. You are right.

another after photo

How about these ones. Nothing too shocking, but does show a fair difference.

The relevant area of the ANKC regulations is Part 6 (register and registrations) section 3.4 under 'Imported Dogs'. ANKC requires that all dogs listed in the export pedigree have to be fully registered with a registration number. I am guessing that this means if there are any 'titre initial' dogs in there, how soon any progeny can be imported into Australia will depend on the registry they are coming from and their requirements for registration. Seems though they would have to be at least 5 generations back and possibly more. A big pity as it does reduce the genepool of dogs available to us here in Australia, and reduces the opportunity for contribution to the preservation of many 'landrace' breeds.

Dog runs. When we are home the dogs are out in the 'big yard' or inside with us, but when we are not they are safe and secure in their own space. We are rural now, but we did the same in town. Depending on your layout you could have run off your laundry so the dog can go in and out still. Portable panels are not expensive these days. Check out Vebopet for instance. A run means the dog can't fence run the boundary when you are not there and it can be secured with a padlock if necessary. Depending on its positioning it means that neighbours or passers by can not 'interfere' with your dog over the boundary fence (stirring them up, harassing them, throwing things or food over the fence to them etc etc.) If the dog is an escape artist (yours isn't though?) it provides extra security and peace of mind.

When I was younger I was involved in breeding horses (Crabbet Arabians). Then came the dogs. Right now I am also becoming involved in breeding purebred chickens - after originally 'just wanting a small flock for home production' (Bantam Salmon Faverolles to be precise - just like the dogs they are French and have extra toes! ). Oh yes, and then there is our small registered flock of Wiltpoll sheep...... Funny how once you start to get the 'bug' and passion for breeding good examples of a breed (any breed or species) it kinda snowballs....... :D

the MDBA course 'Introduction to Breeding' may be more what you are looking for?

A good video worth watching to 'de-mystify' the process is Dr Robert V Hutchison's 'Maximising Conception in the Bitch'. For those who don't know of him, he is a repro god in the US. Interestingly he mentions that when doing a surgical AI that it can be followed up with a TCI a day or two later if desired. BTW, all procedures, including TCI and surgical are shown step by step in the video. Very interesting.

I started out just wanting a dog as a pet. but I fell in love with the breed as well as the dog and it went from there. Breeding does require a whole different way of thinking - another layer if you will. On the one level there is a love for the individual dogs you own. While exhibiting the traits of their breed, each have their own personalities and traits and we love them as individuals. This is something all good dog owners will experience. Breeding on the other hand requires another level to be added - a strategic, long term and critical view based on an overall knowledge and love of the breed (i.e. an ability to see the 'big picture'). Some people find it hard to separate these two levels - my other half is one of these people who can't totally understand how I can love each dog we own as individuals, but still sit back and look at their structure and contribution as an example of the breed in a critical way. He hates is when I 'pick on his dogs' It doesnt mean I love them any less as individuals though (as anyone who knows me and my dogs will know!!) - it just means I am looking at them in that moment on a different level, and have to put that love in another pigeon hole for a while.

I agree totally becks. I think some of you are just totally overboard. Give similar to what Jed does the essentials. Give what they really need. The vaccination certificate. The feeding programme. The food the pup is used to eating The registration certificate (if available) The thing people always thank me for, is a list of nasties not to feed and the nasties that can grow in the garden. They always say I never thought of those. Those things are a given. The basics. The things I listed, as an example, are other things I have settled on after research that provide some assistance in some way. They are added extras certainly, but are not thoughtless 'nice to haves'. They are of course geared to my situation, and others may have different things they think would work for their puppy buyers. I LIKE people having my contact details easily to hand. And the magnets were very cheap (in fact if you look at the right time you can get some for (almost if you dont count postage) free. Enough for one or two litters, or even more if they are only small ones. The collars were a breed specific thing - a specific type of TRAINING collar that is not easy to get and would cost a puppy buyer more than double what I pay for them. I recommend them and prefer that they use them at least in the beginning, so I provide them. I have heaps of different colours so they get to choose if they are fussy. Leads or normal buckle collars etc they can get themselves. Training collars may not be an issue for other people/breeds so irrelevant. I thought it worth mentioning though. Ok, the exception could be the dog tags as I kind of indulged with those - I was actually searching for tags that owners could write their name and address on to put on the puppy straight away. Having had the experience of a puppy getting out of a house yard the first day it was left on its own for a while (and picked up by neighbours down the street who thankfully went door to door in the evening to find its owner) tags that are put on a pup as soon as it gets home can potentially mean the difference between having a puppy and not (yes, microchips work too, but require the pup to be taken away somewhere and usually mean the pup would not be returned the same day). I couldn't locate any of the type of tag I wanted that didnt cost the earth so settled on pretty blue metal tags with the breed (a lot of people don't know what it is and often confuse it with other breeds) and webpage address on it. If it is on the dog it is better than nothing. PLENTY of things for a new puppy buyer to shop for and I dont see how any of the above really takes away from that. I also give advice on where to find the 'value for money' and 'tried and tested' products should they want help in that department. They can go to town buying beds, leads, toys, bowls, crates, brushes etc etc etc as much as they like.

Fridge magnet with contact details. People 'lose' your email address and phone number when they file the papers away. But people keep magnets on the fridge for years and years. Put a nice picture of a dog or puppy on it and you have even more chance of it staying there. No more excuse that 'I couldnt find your phone number/email address'. Vistaprint is a great place to get this sort of thing. Collar. I have a particular type of collar I recommend for starting training (martingale collar). They fit a Pyrenean from puppy to adulthood and last the lifetime of the dog. They are however, hard to get in Australia. I can get them from Country Brook Design in the US for a good price though. Dog Tag - engraved on one side with the breed and my website address. They can put their name and phone number on the other, or just use two tags if they like. IF they use them, it means there is a 'backup' contact should the dog be lost. Try ebay for them. edited to add - Pet insurance. If you sign up to something like Pet Plan they can be covered for the first few weeks. Helps you too if something should go wrong.

Yes, signage and length of time before they are taken up again is legislated. Unfortunaltey when it comes to taking up baits, not everyone always gets them all again, despite the rules. Always a risk that a bait wont be removed as required. Central Asian and Anatolian are out Now that you have explained your setup better :D I don't think what you're asking for should be too hard to fulfil. Good luck! Thanks Lilli. Another 2 crossed off then ;) I would cross off any other livestock guardian breed too.

The thing to remember about no fences too is that some neighbours may be baiting with 1080. That is not something you want to risk a dog with.

A lot of lip service given to that phrase I think. It is really quite a complex concept. I think Jed has stated it well. IMO it is about respecting the breed; presenting it well, but in a realistic and honest fashion; knowing (and understanding!) its past - and I am not just talking your basic breed book or internet website history here; looking to its future on a strategic (whole of breed) level; being open and forthcoming with information; and - if I can borrow from my own motto - putting the BREED before breeding. It is about the big picture - not just the dogs in your own yard.

You may find a dog that will do that. But you wont find a 'breed of dog' that will do that. As always, good fences make good neighbours. (yes, you are in the country. So am I - but even with livestock guardians I make sure my fences are good enough to contain them.)