espinay2

Supervise. If he goes to do it, correct him. Just as with a pup vigilance is the key.House access (particularly 'access all areas') is something that is earned, not a right.

If the breeder is having the problem too - does she have birds of any kind (including poultry) and/or are there wild birds about her property? As mentioned previously I might be inclined to check for coccidia.

Thyroid issues don't always affect appearance though changes to coat and behaviour can be indicators there is something going on. Though this is for situations where thyroid issues emerge later after the dog has finished growing. This type tends to be the more common. Early onset issues with thyroid is different and I must admit I dont know much about that outside the context of cases associated with dwarfism. A search does pull up information on congenital and juvenile hypothyroidism however, including the following: http://www.showdog-magazine.com/medical/thyroid.htm http://ivis.org/journals/vetfocus/21_1/en/1.pdf

I would try not to switch your pups food around too much. I would get the scratching checked by a vet - particularly if it is scabby with hair loss ect - you may want to do a skin scraping for demodex mites? It sounds like this pups immune system may be under a fair bit of stress. What food was it the breeder fed? (perhaps someone can help you locate it or something similar). What has the breeder suggested?

Dogs are situational learners so what they learn in one location does not necessarily translate directly to another. Your dog may have been house trained not to go inside at your old house, but unless you reinforced this learning at the new house it may not understand that the same rules also apply there. Going back to basics for at least a while is always a good thing to do when you move house, no matter how old the dog is. I would suggest going back to basics with the house training now. Make 'access all areas' in the house something to be earned (it is not an automatic right) and if you can't supervise, either crate your dog, have him outside or confine him to one area like the kitchen. I would restrict access in particular to those areas inside where he is going. Take him outside regularly (go outside with him) and when he goes outside, praise him - just as you would for a puppy. If the dog goes inside and you don't catch him in the act, resolve to better supervise him in future as without more supervision and reinforcement he will just keep doing it (as basically he doesn't understand what your rules are in this house).

Have fed a raw diet for over 15 years. What I do is on my website here (to save repeating it).

These?: http://www.greatrugs...store/index.htm I have a heap of the drybed cushion beds. Easy to wash and very hard wearing. Though the comphy cushoin beds are probably thicker

That is actually quite a bit of food. 740 grams is around 3/4 of a kilo and my Pyreneans eat less than that! By feeding the equivalent weight as raw meaty bones rather than minced up they take longer to eat it, are more mentally stimulated and more satisfied. If you are feeding ground up stuff, mix some low fat/low salt stock/broth in with it. It will make them feel fuller without adding calories. The amounts you list though are more than enough. Don't confuse hunger with enthusiasm and opportunism.

Get a script from the vet (an 'open script' will let you get as many repeats as you need) - you can get it filled at a chemist as is same as human meds. 'Discount chemist' is often cheaper so shop around.

I had a similar experience once. Years ago. Lead was ripped out of my hand (literally) and dog dragged away. Definitely increased my stress levels and I left in tears. Unfortunately in that case the dog came back to me in not a very good state . All my other experiences with boarding kennels have been good and all have let me walk the dogs in and put them in their kennels. As a result departures have been calm for all of us. As a result I can understand fully why the poster was upset. Leaving your dog in a kennel can be stressful enough (even for the calmest person) without adding to it in this way. Even if the dog is well cared for (I am sure it will be...) it would not encourage me to take a dog back.

Yes, agree with the above. Agree heart is muscle (though a bit of a 'special' one and can be classified as both organ and muscle). It tends to have a higher nutrient density than many other muscle meats. It is an excellent source of taurine in particular. Particularly good for cats for this reason. I do tend to feed it more often than other organs when I can get it.

I have been feeding a raw diet for over 15 years. I have not had any problems feeding this way and have seen only benefits in my dogs. My Dogs coats are beautiful and heathy (some would call them stunning ;) ) Dogs can get fat or thin on a raw diet just like any other diet. In the end it simply comes down to how much you feed (calories in versus energy used). You can't blame a raw diet as such for a fat or thin dog. I have some dogs that need more food and some dogs that need less. And some need more or less at different stages of their life (and even at different times of the year). This principle really holds true no matter what type of diet you feed though. All dogs will have a scratch from time to time, just like we do. If it is excessive though, you may have issues. One cause may be a lack of essential fatty acids. Omega 3 EFA's are easily destroyed by heat so most commerical dog foods will be deficient in them. Add feeding lean meats (it is the fat that contains any EFA's) and that may be part of your problem. If you are not supplementing with something like fish oil I would probably at least be doing this. Agree with those above - you only need a small amount of organ meat. in size, maybe the equivalent of one lambs kidney and one lambs heart per week per dog (for the bigger dogs). That is all. One lambs liver may last you a couple of weeks.

Also rememeber to have something easy prepared for you to eat. It may take a while and you may not want to be out of the room for long to grab something, but you may need to eat!

http://anniethemusic...yauditions.html Open auditions will be held at the QPAC Cultural Centre Forecourt South Bank this Sunday 12 February for talented dogs to play Annie's beloved pup 'Sandy' in the Brisbane season of Annie. To be eligible for selection applicants need to be well-trained, medium sized, sandy/light red coloured dogs aged between 12 months to 5 years. The producers of Annie are hoping to find confident, outgoing dogs that are great with children and are not noise sensitive, all of which are essential to perform in front of packed houses on a nightly basis. Owners must be prepared to hand over their dog to the show's highly qualified trainer for the duration of the Brisbane season, from 27 February at the earliest, dependent on training level. Only dogs who are well trained prior to auditioning with the ability to learn quickly need apply. Based on the Harold Gray comic strip "Little Orphan Annie" the musical Annie burst into popularity in 1977 when it opened on Broadway. After running there for nearly six years, it has played in over 22 countries worldwide including the UK, Argentina, Japan, Germany, Sweden, Spain and Australia. Annie became a smash-hit movie in 1982 starring Aileen Quinn, Albert Finney and Carol Burnett that is adored worldwide and a fixture of popular culture references. Auditions are open on Sunday 12 February 2012, with registration forms available for owners to fill in on arrival from 12 noon to 4pm. Enquiries should be directed to [email protected]. Requirements for Dogs Auditioning: Dogs must be de-sexed, vaccinated, medium sized, (approx 20 kilos and 75 cm high). Medium to long haired and a sandy colour, for example, golden retriever or any other sandy or light red coloured pure breed or a Labradoodle or mixed breed. To give your dog every chance to impress it is important not to feed him or her on Friday night or Sat morning. And to bring their favourite food, and toy to the audition as well as a water container. Please bring proof of vaccination and a photo of your dog for us to keep should the dog be shortlisted. Dogs must be confident, outgoing, great with children and other dogs and not noise sensitive. Dogs must be over 12 months and under 5 years old. Dogs must be well trained prior to auditioning with the ability to learn quickly. Owners must be prepared to hand over the dog to the highly qualified trainer for the duration of the Brisbane season (from at the earliest 27th Feb, dependent on training levels, to 13th May) for a nominal fee per week. SANDY AUDITION DETAILS: Venue: Cultural Forecourt, South Bank (Riverside of QPAC) Season: Sunday 12th February Performance Times: 12 Noon to 4pm Registration: Registration forms will be available for owners to fill in on arrival

I would not consider doctoring photos or serial brag advertising in the same category as mentioning class wins or wins considered important or commenting that your dog was shortlisted? I have bragged about a runner up best of breed. But that was for a bitch under an international specialist judge with a large entry when both are as rare as hens teeth for my breed.

The second photo the dog looks to be a Murray River Curly Coated Retriever

Can be relevant sometimes - particularly when talking to overseas friends where at shows in group they place 1-4 rather than just 1st and runner up. Being shortlisted isn't a win, but it is still recognition that your dog was at least considered. In minority breeds this can be nice to know.

Anyone got a link to the umbilical clamps? I havent seen them.

Will the vet come to the clinic if you need them after hours (eg emergency c-section) as well as talk to you on the phone or will you need to go to another clinic/emergency vet for that? If you will need to physically go elsewhere, make sure you know where that is (have a map/know the route/know the number etc) so you have one less thing to panic about in the middle of the night.

Basically it is about regulating response to stimulus from their environment. Limited exposure can mean a dog is more 'reactive' - it reacts more quickly and violently to objects or events in a physiological as well as an emotional way (heart rate, hormone secretions etc). If the pup is habituated to a wider variety of stimulus this reaction 'evens out' and maintains equilibrium when faced with stimulus. Basically it takes less to trigger a fluctuation in both the physiological and the emotional response. See the section headed 'emotional self regulation' : http://www.nwk9.com/dehasse_pupdev.htm This goes into the physiological side in more detail: http://www.ncbi.nlm....books/NBK25445/ What symptoms are they giving?

Some useful articles here: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/as-natural-as-possible-puppy-whelping-and-rearing/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/as-natural-as-possible-puppy-whelping-and-rearing-part-ii/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/as-natural-as-possible-puppy-whelping-and-rearing-part-iii/ Have fun and try to relax! ;) (yeah right :laugh: )

Do you have a Lenards or other Poultry shop near you? They will generally sell chicken frames and chicken pet mince (minced up frames) - average around $1.50 a kg (often less if you find somewhere to buy in bulk by the 10kg case) Then find a butcher that does a reasonable pet mince (with not too much 'rubbish' in it like sausage filler). Most of these will include a range of things including organ meats. They provide good variety for a cheap price. With the chicken RMB and the pet mince you have a good quality and cheap basis for feeding a raw diet. (for each frame, through a glob of pet mince in it. Or you can feed it on different days as a meal - remember balance is over time.) Now the 'added extras': Every now and then, feed other RMB as available depending on price. i.e. Lamb flaps, offcuts or necks, turkey necks (sold at most Woolworths here in NSW - don't know about Vic), pork trotters, rabbit etc. Just buy something when you see it on special or get a good deal. Once a week feed a fish meal. Home brand canned salmon or mackeral or sardines. Combine with an egg or two etc. Feed healthy leftovers such as veg/rice/pasta when available - no need to fuss about these bits as they are not essential for a carnivore and are more occasional nice to haves. Throw in a fish oil capsule or two a few times a week. Put in the dogs meal, squeeze on food or give it to them as treats (mine come running when they hear the bottle). And there you go. Quick, easy, cheap and healthy. Feeding raw doesn't have to be hard.

Some articles for you: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/diets-for-special-health-needs/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/heart-healthy-diet/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/cardiovascular-diet/

Defintiely cheaper to do your own. Particularly if you have a big enough freezer to buy in bulk. No need to grind meat though. Keep it simple. There is a pinned thread here on where to buy raw: http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/156406-where-to-buy-raw/ The only supplement I use for most dogs is fish oil capsules (400 caps for around $20 from a discount chemist) Some info on feeding raw on my website here: http://www.espinay.c...dingourdogs.cfm