espinay2

Don't worry about it. Her hormones sound like they are all over the place and now is about the right time for a phantom (or puppies if she were mated) after her season (or getting close enough to it anyway depending on when she actually ovulated). Many bitches go through phantoms and I have had one that went through one every time she was in season. Some get them stronger than others. The Speying wont have stopped the hormones if they were already circulating, but now she is done she won't get one again. Note this is a very natural thing. In a wild pack situation bitches will cycle together but it is often only the higher ranking females that get to mate. The other bitches can sometimes take on duties as 'nanny dogs', even producing milk. Those phantom pregnancies serve a purpose! As for what to do, generally you just ride it out and they lose interest after a time. Or you can take away the toys etc and keep her busy with other things. Six of one, half a dozen of the other IMO as generally you have to let the hormones run their course. They can seem a bit folorn and pathetic while in one. But they DO come out of it.

Agree I wouldn't necessarily say Pano based on your info here, particularly with only a single occurrence and no real diagnosis. My first thought would have been strain or sprain after the playing. Glad to know it improved and he is back to normal.

Some of the questions were weird and not relevant to me at all. In the end I gave up as my input was becoming not a true indication of what I do Edited to expand. Maybe I didnt read properly but it asked 'how many dogs' then all of a sudden the questions were about one dog only. I am guessing we had to choose one to do the questions on The questions on exercise I couldnt answer properly as most of the exercise my dogs do are free running on our property - not 'walking' and not 'running with' (I don't run! LOL!) And when my dogs walk on a lead, they walk WITH me because they are trained to - this is not necessarily an indication therefore of what they may 'want' to do physically. As some have mentioned - no section for raw foods re diet - home cooked is about the closest I guess. That was the point I stopped as I reaslised that my answeres were not going to be any indication of reality. Having worked with surveys before, IMO this survey is not well constructed unfortunately and I personally don't think it will result in much in the way of meaningful results

My French is basic. I can read more than I speak (I have a LOT of breed books in French though do have to resort to a French/English dictionary at times!) and I can speak enough to get by for everyday activities when travelling, but not as much as I would like when it comes to more indepth conversations about dogs. Yes, I do use it, and it is handy when visiting France for shows like the Nationale d'Elevage and when communicating online with breeders etc. It has been very useful from the point of view of learning and being active internationally in my breed. More lessons have been something I have been meaning to do.

As a somewhat impartial observer I became curious about this topic so decided to email DogsQLD directly to find out the official answer. I sent the following question to DogsQld in an email: This is the reply in full that I recieved from Roslyn Glancy at DogsQld: As this is from the official source, I hope it clears up the issue for all.

Thank you :D You sound like you use your brushes in a similar manner to me - at least in way you use them (though I don't do this every day....) IMO if you like the Les Poochs, you should also like the CC Fusion :)

split heat? How often does she usually cycle?I would get her checked by a repro though in case there is something odd going on.

Be aware though that omega 3 EFAs do break down when exposed to heat, light and air..... This is the reason why omega 3 oils need to be kept refrigerated in a dark container and used quickly (capsules are a little more stable to temps as the oil is in an airtight environment and stabilised with Vit E while in a dark container - they still need to be kept cool though)

If you are after a second opinion, a good one would be Dr Tom Lonsdale (specialises in vet dentistry etc and author of 'raw meaty bones' fame). He is now back in Aust and practicing (looks to be doing GP work so no referral necessary) in Bligh Park near Windsor, NSW: http://www.localvet....ethealthcentre/

CC Fusion pin brush. Polished tips mean less coat breakage. And I love the pretty colours (mine is purple) :D I have had no problem with the pins bending, though I tend to use pin brushes as a 'finishing' brush and while drying. Not a pin brush but I also love the Les Poochs Brush. Also polished tips. And ergonomic. I use the Pro Brush F/F. This is my 'workhorse' that I tend to start all grooming sessions with. I have found since changing to these brushes that coat quality has actually improved and brushing is easier. I was using a PP pin brush and Lawrence slicker before this. Both good - but I like what I have now a lot more.

Frankly, for a true elimination diet you would be better starting off with no 'combination' foods at all. You can start off with one protien (i.e. just roo or chicken mince or just one type of raw meaty bone). For the short time you are doing the one thing only just feeding that one thing only will not be an issue (with the exception perhaps of puppies who are still in their major growth stage - particularly if you are feeding the meat without the bone) You can then start to add individual items to this to test. It will give you a truer picture a lot more quickly than feeding a food that already contains multiple items (as if the dog still has problems - you have no idea which ingredient or additive is the culprit)

OK...I just HAVE to say it (cant resist) Royal PITA

Agree. In the case of a breed bred to bark to do their job, for instance. Stopping them barking altogether can potentially cause the dog major and continued stress. By Debarking and allowing them to continue to bark (though it wont be as loud) means the dog can be happy it is doing its job. Stopping the dog from barking my not necessarily always be the best solution when it comes to the dogs happiness and wellbeing.

IMO it really depends HOW it is done - not WHY it is done. Certainly there are a lot of rehoming reasons that I would not agree with/do myself (and some that do make me shake my head). But it is not me who is rehoming the dog and really who am I to judge whether the reason is a valid one or not for them as long as the person is doing it with the interests of the dog at heart in the way they undertake the process.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-china-18218878 (link has video) A stray dog has completed a 1700km journey across China after joining a cycle race from Sichuan province to Tibet.The dog, nicknamed "Xiaosa", joined the cyclists after one of them gave him food. He ran with them for 20 days, covering up to 60km a day, and climbing 12 mountains. Cyclist Xiao Yong started a blog about Xiaosa's adventures, which had attracted around 40,000 fans by the end of the race. Yong now hopes to adopt Xiaosa.

I have a had a single motor ezycoat for years with the Pyrs and love it. Also love the prompt and helpful service they provide for parts etc, being an Aussie made product (had to replace a hose connector about a year ago - only thing I have had to do in about 10 years). They are a SA company, so relatively convenient for you in WA: http://www.ezycoat.com.au/ (there in a distributor over your way in Canningvale??) If I were upgrading, I would buy their double motor model - not because the single motor doesn't do the job, but because more power is always better :D Though I note the single motor models now being sold are more powerful than the one I have too.

Stainless steel mostly for food. They last. I have bowls 20 years old and more that still look almost as good as the day I bought them. They are easy to clean and don't damage easily. I also have a few old enamel dishes (like the stuff in camping stores) - old as the hills (maybe 40 or 50 years? - given to me years ago by my Grandmother) and still going strong! I don't like plastic for food dishes as it doesnt last and isnt as easy to clean. I don't like ceramic as they tend to be heavy and can break (and if you have problem handls like mine, and multiple bowls to juggle - they are definitely not practical!) For water - inside I do use a plastic bowl because I use a 'Road Refresher' (which has prevented a LOT of water being put all over the floor). I wish it wasn't plastic, but it was a compromise (benefits outweight my objection to what it is made of!) For outside water I have stainless steel buckets near the taps, and in the runs I use large glazed pottery water pots (from garden centres) as they are heavy, can't be tipped over, hold lots and keep the water cool. They are easy to clean out and refill with a hose or bucket.

None that I know of. Europe or US may be your 'closest'?

Smart move I think Meea!

If there was it looks like it was snapped up pretty quickly as I just called and no luck

The Perfect Puppy by Gwen Bailey is the one I recommend for all new puppy owners. I would also recommend the following by Patricia McConnell: Puppy Primer How to Be the Leader of the Pack

I think Espinay needs it over in the FIFO worker thread first. I am sure there will be room for both of us.....

Lets get it straight folks - it is NOT about the job a person does - it is about the stability and type of care the person can offer to a PUPPY in the formative stages of its life! Yes, the job will have a bearing on this (or rather the requirements of their job as it affects the home life of the pup) but this is combined with other factors including family/home life status, living arrangements and what they have arranged for the pup when they are not there. IT IS NOT ALL ABOUT THE TYPE OF JOB THE PERSON DOES - that is only ONE consideration (and was ony one of the considerations listed by the OP). Yes, some FIFO workers can be good homes and yes, some military can be good homes, but it depends on OTHER FACTORS not just their job, just like some retail workers, or stay at home mums or public servants working 9-5 may or may not be good homes based on a range of factors. For sure knowing what the job is can lead to other questions being asked, but still only one of many things to be taken into account. So lets forget about the job and talk about the welfare of the pup. After all, it is the pup that should come first in any consideration (and as a breeder that is certainly my first priority). So is there ANYONE here who thinks that putting a pup (from 8 or 9 weeks of age) into a boarding kennel for a week every second week is going to be a good environment for the young puppy?

Getting back to the OP's original question, which should be the whole point of this thread, then let me summarise again. A part time home, where a young puppy spends a large proportion of its time in a kennel, is not good for a pup during its important developmental and growth stages in particular for a whole range of reasons including beahvioural, training and health reasons. For those reasons I would not sell to ANY home that could not provide some kind of stability. A lot will therefore depend on the nature and makeup of the persons support network for the times they do go away. A person who plans for whatever reason to leave a young pup in kennels for a large proportion of its upbringing and to swap and change it from week to week from a boarding kennel environment to the home would therefore not be considered by me as a suitable home for a young pup, particularly during these important developmental stages. This does not mean an automatic no to anyone with a particular job that takes them away - it depends very much on their family situation and support network and how the pup would be managed during their absences. As an added issue, to not tell the breeder that this was going to be the case is not good at all and IMO reduces the homes suitability even further. A relationship based on untruths is never a good one.

No, as stated by others here: 1. Take her to the vet and get her checked out 2. Feed a better diet. Not that hard really and no excuses.