espinay2

I am so sorry you have been through this. Many folks have been in a situation where a dog has not turned out as expected after forking out lots of money (sometimes a LOT more if the dog is imported from overseas). It can be heartbreaking at times and sometimes unfortunately something we may have to live and learn from, however wrong we may feel that to be and how expensive the lesson is . First thing I would note is that there is perhaps a lesson to learn in that there really was no way of knowing what the dogs hip or elbow scores were until such time as the x-rays were done (and same for eye exam, though I gather this turned out to be clear). If guarantees were needed, it may have been better to request that these were provided before you purchased the dog (even though he was younger, PennHIP could have been done or prelim x-rays perhaps read by a specialist to give an opinion). Without the test results there is always going to be a degree of risk taking, and if ensuring they were good was a deal breaker, IMO it would be something worth doing to remove that risk. What exactly did she guarantee and what have you got in writing. When you set your requirement for a dog with 'low' hip and elbow scores, did you specify this further (as in numbers) or just use the word 'low'? What I mean here is was there agreement on what the term 'low' was when it came to the dogs hips and elbows? Her idea of low may not necessarily be the same as yours. Did you see or get a copy of the hip certificates for the sire and dam? Sit down and try and look at it all as unemotionally as possible. While I know you are upset over this, emotion just clouds logic and you need to have all the facts set out clearly. Note that an important part of any 'guarantee' involves not just that something will be a certain way, but what will happen if they are not - did she provide any information on what would happen if the dogs scores were not as agreed? This is always an important thing to ask regarding a guarantee. A basic warranty though is covered by consumer law regarding goods being 'fit for purpose'. If the breeder does not agree to take the dog back (or 'make good' via repair or replacement - repair not really being an option in this case), you could probably go the fair trading/small claims route. On a side note, I would agree with the comment made earlier too regarding stud dogs. Perhaps better than 'buying in' a dog would IMO be to seek stud services from dogs owned by others for your bitches based on what suits them best?

It really depends what YOU feel comfortable using on him. Show leads can be very personal I have found. IMO though a basic setup is a basic check chain (not chunky, but doesnt need to be ultra fine either - just needs to be a good fit length-wise) and a basic nylon clip show lead. For a Dally about 70cm give or take would work fine. Look here at Pet network for example: http://www.petnetwor...&cart_id=240783 (show lead BON-70 or BON-08 with a BON-103 type clip would be my suggestion)

IMO too not a waste of money but it can really depend on the quality of the machine and who is doing the ultrasound IMO. I have had one performed by a general vet with a small portable machine and it told me not much at all and you couldnt really see much very clearly. Done by a repro vet on a great machine and for only slightly more dollars it was a whole lot more worthwhile. Much clearer, more to see and much more information. I can sort of see how someone may think it a waste of time if the former is their only experience of getting an ultrasound done.

And be careful with heat packs too - they can get very warm and burn without proper insulation (and even with insulation sometimes). We humans can remove them for a while if they get uncomfortable, but a dog can't

:laugh:

Yes dedicated breeders do pay big bikkies for a dog and then let it reach 18 months without having been shown. I'm a multiple offender :D I dont know about a mobile life in an RV. Could be good for a Dane, could be not. No way can I tell from here. Some of the RV's I have seen in the US that show handlers travel around the country in are as big as houses. I have been in a couple and beleive me they are very comfortable! And yes, it is not uncommon for a dog to not be shown until it is mature. It is MUCH more common to show young dogs in Australia than it is in many other countries. Many dogs are not shown until they are competitive for the big wins and most give them time to grow up first and perhaps only give them a few 'show' outings (such as 'puppy matches') when young (in particular many would NEVER take a teething dog to a show for example so they are not soured by a possible bad experience - why wreck a dog when young when you want them to perform and not be sour later)

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http://www.delete.com.au/ Not cheap, but it is a concentrate so you don't need much and it is one of the most effective all round treatments I have found.

Google 'storage drums' - you will find heaps. Look for ones that are 'food grade'. The screw top ones are generally best. Hrre are some listings: http://www.ccrplascon.com.au/product-listing/mouser-drums.html http://www.plasticsplus.com.au/001.html These types of things are often sold to store horse feed etc.

Do what is right for YOU (as Bjelkier said!) And remember, your dog may not turn out to be the best match for the bitch anyway. I wouldn't be trying necessarily to choose a bitch to go with your dog (though if the stars align and he is suitable for her, and you can use him GREAT). Rather I would be looking to get a bitch from whatever source you consider best to be your foundation. Get his opinion most certainly if you like, but the thing to remember is that in the end, it is only an opinion and the final decision is yours. You assess the opinion as PART of the information you use in making the decision. If there is a logical reason why you consider the choice to be a valid one for you (set out all the pros and cons on paper - and try not to let impatience or emotion take too much of a front seat), then that is your choice to make.

Ugh. This flu is not giving up. Bummer I was looking forward to it too .

Not sure how it works in the US for dogs imported from elsewhere but most certainly in the US a dog can be given the prefix of its owner's kennel rather than its breeder. In the US pups from the one litter may have different prefixes for their registered name (for example, a breeder with the kennel prefix 'Ajax' breeds a litter, but one of the pups goes to a breeder with the prefix 'Starstruck' - pup going to this breeder can register it as 'Starstruck big fancy name' while other pups from the litter are registered by the breeder as 'Ajax something pretty'. Confusing I know, but that is how it works. In the US you have to look at the breeder listed to know who bred it, not necessarily the prefix. I feel for the fellow losing his dog. I do hope they locate him.

Delete. Love it.

Oh that weather forecast! And me with the Flu To show or not to show, that is the question!!

Transport: Call Dogtainers - http://www.dogtainers.com.au/ Boarding: others may have a better idea, but Bligh Park Vet at Windsor does boarding which may be useful if he is recovering from surgery?: http://www.blighparkvet.com.au/ourServices.php#boarding Vets: here is a thread on ortho vets that mentions some in your area: http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/150983-good-ortho-vets-in-sydney/ Big crate can be purchased for a reasonable price from http://www.vebopet.com.au/ (get the XXL) He will need some shelter outside - that is probably your priority if that is where he will be spending most of his time - particularly if he is to sleep outside. An emergency temporary 'quick fix' might be tall star pickets and a tarp strung (at a slight angle) between them - it will at least provide some shade and rain shelter until you can arrange something more permanent.

Yes, very surprised by the Vet!! I have had it on a Dalmatian. Fixes itself in a few days as a rule.

I use plain old cornflour from the supermarket. Method for spot cleaning or an all over 'dry bath' is as follows: Using a soap free shampoo (or something like Fidos herbal rinse) in some warm water (in a bucket or container) wet a facecloth or thin towel, ring out and rub through dogs coat (alternately use a spray on like the PP wonder wash and rub in to coat with a damp cloth) Dry off excess water with a clean towel. Rub/dust cornfour through damp coat. Allow a little while to dry (10 - 15 mins or less is usually enough) Brush out NOTE: I use the PP wonderwash/cornflour method on legs for show day cleanups. Brings them up nicely, even with icky red mud.

1. as mentioned - get a second opinion. Ask the breeder to recommend a vet for the opinion perhaps. I find the doom and gloom of your vet interesting, particularly so early on in the treatment. 2. Keep the breeder in the loop on the dogs progress. Ask their opinion (giving the benefit of the doubt here as I don't know their side of the story - good communication is always important though.) 3. What is in your contract with the breeder (do you have one?). Even more important to follow any requirements in the contract and work with the breeder when it comes to deciding if the pup will indeed be suitable for show and/or breeding. If/when the demodex clears, you may have no problem showing the dog. Your choice based on research then on the breeding issue and that needs to be discussed with the breeder too. 4. You have several options open to you - as mentioned returning it to the breeder is the first one (and yes, PTS may be an option if the condition is very severe - if you are going to become a breeder yourself, you will learn that sometimes these hard decisions need to be made). Also realise that what the breeder does with the dog once they have it back is THEIR decision based on their own opinion, research and understanding of the situation as well as their own morals and beliefs (and being different doesnt mean they are always necessarily wrong). You can only control the decisions YOU make in your OWN kennel. Other options include cutting your losses, desexing the pup and either rehoming it in a pet home yourself or keeping it yourself (if you desex you may still have the option to show in neuter class too). There are lots of avenues for you to take. First thing you need to do though is try and take emotion out of the equasion and look at the issue objectively. Read up as much as you can on Demodex from good sources the Merck Vet Manual is a good starting point and available online. Read up as much as you can on the prevalence of the issue in your breed (try international forums etc where serious breeders hang out or search for articles and info - enter the word 'demodex' and your breed name in a search engine and go from there). Discuss with your breeder (so they are part of the solution rather than being confrontational) and take it from there. The more info you have, the better your decision making will be.

I recommend getting a copy of 'Dogs Diet and Disease' by Caroline Levin http://www.petcarebooks.com/books/ddad.htm

Without seeing the dog there could be any number of causes. Fleas, Demodex, etc etc. And unles these are treated appropriately they won't go away. I understand you want to treat it yourself, but frankly it will be better for your dogs wellbeing and comfort if you get some advice and a proper diagnosis now. It will also be cheaper if you treat it now erather than leaving it until it is worse. Take your dog to the vet. Get a skin scraping done. It will tell you if there are mites present or bacteria/fungal infection etc. Knowing that you will be able to use the right treatment for the issue rather than just trying to treat the symptoms. Until you determine exactly what the issue is, treating the symptoms only is simply not going to work.

Great news :). Dogs are such perceptive creatures. It is amazing what they can tell us when we listen to them

SASH is an emergency after hours service I think? Some other 'parasite' perhaps that caused symptoms needing immediate treatment? Coccidia? OP can you confirm exactly what symptoms and parasites you are referring to? If it was Coccidia, the presence of birds (poultry, parrots or even wild birds) in particular can often mean that this is present on a property. It can be more prevalent in wet weather. With dogs (in particular puppies) problems won't often occur unless the pup is placed under some kind of stress - the stress of going to a new home for example. Symptoms can include diarreha, vomiting, poor apetite etc, but it is generally easily treated once identified. Often a breeder won't even know coccidia is present until a puppy in its new home is diagnosed.

Not pain relief as such but have you thought about looking into stem cell therapy? (as it may actually lessen the need for pain therapy if it is suitable for his condition). Went to a lecture on it in the US, but I know it is done here in Aust too (and is actually based on Aust research). There have been threads about it here I think if you search.

No, as a rule I don't. The only time I have had KC here was an older dog who had been given the KC vaccine. The KC vaccine doesnt really last 12 months anyway - it has an efficacy of about 3 months, maybe 6. If you REALLY want to use it, IMO best bet is to get it not long before the dog goes in for Boarding etc rather than on an annual schedule.