espinay2

Something to look forward to! I hope clubs get on board and arrange some seminars. Will be highly worthwhile I think.

I am allergic to grass seeds, pollen and 'dirt' (can't walk barefoot outside any more without my feet getting red hot itchy). Of course the dogs get this in their coat and hugging them can sometimes leave me VERY itchy! It is something I live with, but a clean coat can help, as can wearing clothes with sleeves and washing my hands after hugging/patting them. I hope the allergy tests tell you something and you work out a system so your daughter (and your family) can enjoy the dogs with limited effect. (I also get asthma - multiple hospital stays from 3 years of age - and had horses when younger. The dust in hay always affected me badly but I was determined and found ways to deal with it which meant I didnt have to give up my pride and joys :) )

Yes, the hot water case was another possible cause that was mentioned. Also mycoplasma infection (which antibiotics fixed). I think there are so many possible causes that many cases will be different. Some dogs will react differently and what one dog may manage, another may not. If dogs are on HW meds and are not sterile then obviously it is not an issue for THEM. There were quite a number of people mentioning cases where heartworm meds seemed to be the culprit that it may be worth investigating if trying to find a cause in a dog that IS sterile, rather than instantly ruling out a dog as irreparably infertile. Also too we don't know what the effect of having multiple treatments for different things done at once can do. The case in the health forum of dogs which died as a result of the combination of worming tablets and 'flea bomb' (whatever that was - no clarification given) is an example of how when put together some things can overload a system. Dogs being imported do have their system quite overloaded (worming, parasite treament, vaccinations, stress) so it is certainly possible that this overload could have an effect in some dogs, while some others handle it fine (just as some dogs suffer from vaccinosis while others on the same protocol do not etc etc)

So sorry to hear this Cath. It must have been hard after all your effort and getting your hopes up so much . Fingers crossed you can now move on and find a great dog to share your life with .

I do feed two main meals as a rule (for people who work this can be a practical thing too). during the day pups get a raw meaty bone such as a brisket bone or roo tail to eat/chew on. Check the pups weight. If you can't feel the pups ribs, perhaps reduce the size of the meals for a little while if you want to feed three meals. The pup may be getting more than enough. One of the biggest dangers with pups IMO is over feeding.

I happened upon an interesting discussion here on sterility in stud dogs which made me think of this thread. One of the things discussed is that dogs on ivomectin based hearworm meds may test as sterile while on them. It is possible I guess, that if the dog remains on the meds and continues to test as sterile, that the connection would not be made. It may be worth 'testing' a dog by, for example, taking the dog off them over the winter months and retesting their sperm, or switching to a different type of heartworm med? At least then it could be ruled out as being an issue or not I guess.

http://www.maremmano.com/maremma_breed_standards/italian_breed_standard_maremma_sheepdog.html Some good photos on this link

Maremma can vary in size and I have certainly seen some heavier ones, just as there are also smaller lighter pyrs. Frankly no way to tell if he is all maremma unless you can verify parentage. One of the risks to be taken with unpedigreed dogs.

Was there any information on what the combination was?

If you are after a group of puppies in a more controlled environment then I would be looking for a well run puppy kindy or preshool class as frankly at this age this what they are all about. I teach classes, and I still take my own pups to classes run by others.

Dog World is in Hume. Otherwise Isabel's in Phillip.

Like I Beleive It Unbeleiveable Storm

Enter. You can pull him if you are not happy, but you may regret it if you don't. Entering at least keeps your options open a bit longer until you can have a go at the coat.

I do have knowledge of one dog imported about ten years ago who was sterile. But to my knowledge as he was not tested or used before he arrived, there is no way of directly linking it to any particular cause. I do agree that the bombardment with vaccine, chemical treatments (worming/fleas etc) and stress of travel/quarantine etc all at once could potentially affect fertility. Whether permanently or temporarily? I also find interesting some of Myra Savant-Harris's discussion of fertility issues and 'the rise of the dog room' - she discusses how the management of multiple dogs so that they get limited time outside (and also dogs kept in more 'climate controlled' circumstances such as air conditioning) means they are not recieving sufficient direct sunlight and/or are not experiencing sufficient temperature differentiation to allow them to cycle or produce normally. One thing she recommends for dogs that are kept inside a lot and experiencing problems with fertility is to get them outside for a greater proportion of the day.

As mentioned, you really need to ask the former owners what the usual length of her cycle is and when she was last in season. The length of a cycle can vary greatly from bitch to bitch. While six months is 'average', bitches may cycle from around every 4 months to every 12 months or more. I have never had a bitch with a six month cycle - they have all been different.

While mine are larger, I get them outside as soon as possible. Direct sunlight is important for good health (and proper growth) and they learn to regulate their body temperature and seek shelter (adequate, shade, shelter etc etc a must of course) While I'm not there though, they don't get free run of the whole yard, they are confined to a run. A secure run (roofed in some way, even just with bird netting or wire, if you are concerned about small puppies and birds) means they are safe, but have plenty of room to move around.

Reminds me of when I was about 10, our new puppy ate part of the head of a very special teddy I had had since I was in hospital at age three (it was sitting on my night table). I cried a lot, but yes, forgave the puppy. As for signs, I can certainly think of a few for my lot :laugh: .

I'd love to hear from those who have NOT taken their dog to training (group, private- some kind of organised training) in the last 3 months I haven't taken my own dogs to classes for a while, though I do actually TEACH classes pretty much every week. What was the reason why you stopped training your dog? Some dogs have been to classes for various lengths of time (up to trialling in obedience and agility). When I lived in town I was more active in the clubs both taking dogs to training and instructing. The distance I now live from any classes makes it difficult to get to them (I actually offer classes through a local vet clinic 20 mins from where I live because there are none offered in our area and I want locals to be able to take their dogs to classes for at least the basics). I could go to classes on weekends, but as I show this can often clash. I do try and make sure young puppies get to at least puppy socialisation classes if I can. I do my training outside of any formal class structure for the most part though. Do you feel your dog is well trained enough? Yes. I ensure all my dogs are well socialised and well mannered. Did you not get results from previous training attempts? Yes, I got results. But at this point I don't really 'need' the structure of a class to train and socialise my dogs to an 'acceptable' level as I do this myself without the help of formal classes. What would prompt you to start training again or would you not start training again regardless? I have considered having a go at Rally with one of my dogs. I might attend a Rally class in future with him..

Try www.dogwise.com for books - don't go too crazy ;)

Agree, the vet probably want her lean which will be much better for her. Having to rest doesn't mean she cant take her places and keep her mentally stimulated. She can still go out in the car for rides provided she just sits and watches things and not walk around etc, but she shouldnt run and play with other dogs in particular or be taken on walks just now. Important she does what the vet says.

See if any of these articles help: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/irritable-bowel-disease-in-dogs-its-about-the-diet/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/the-diarrhea-dilemma/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/frequently-asked-questions-digestion-and-gastric-problems/ http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/gastric-problems/

It can happen. If memory serves me right there was a case a number of years ago when someone was killed after one of their Akitas accidentally bit them when they were breaking up a fight between two dogs. Just has to be a bite in the wrong place, hit an artery and be on your own... I myself have been accidentally bitten breaking up a fight between two bitches. My fault, but it did happen and I was on my own at the time. Just lucky it didn't hit anything important I guess. We will never know what happened in this case. A very sad thing to have occurred.

The Perfect Puppy by Gwen Bailey. A good book for new puppy owners IMO Lots of others I could recommend, but this is a good 'starter' book.

You sound like you are not really keen about the idea of breeding and are trying to talk yourself out of the idea. You don't HAVE to breed, so by the sound of it you may find it a relief when you finally decide not to. If you think you might though, here are some things for you to do/consider: 1. Talk to your girls breeder. Sit down with them if you can and have a session looking and the pros and cons of your girl. Get them to help go over her strengths and weaknesses with you and have them truly evaluate her. 2. She looks fit and healthy to me in the pictures and at 2 she is still young. I have had bitches who at that age stayed quite lean no matter what they were fed. By 3 or 4 though they have 'bodied out' and have been easier to maintain weight on. For this reason I personally wouldn't exclude her at this age on the basis of her being lean. 3. If your girls breeder is willing to mentor you, and you approach this in the right way under their guidance, I am not going to tell you NOT to breed just because you are not showing. It would be a good idea though, as it can help you in the long run. But just like with the horses, don't necessarily base breeding decisions on wins. 4. Sometimes the hardest decision is deciding NOT to breed - but making this decision can often be the right one, even with a 'nice bitch'. Not all 'nice' bitches need to be bred. 5. Health tests? what is suggested for the breed and have you done them? 6. IF you think breeding is something you will do, what are your goals for the litter? Make sure your goals are more than just 'to have puppies'. Do you think your bitch can contribute to the BREED in some way? Do you have plans for her progeny? Such as keeping a puppy to continue your breeding program? Responsible breeding looks beyond the one litter - it looks both forward and back - to generations past and generations yet to come. 6. Do you have the time for this or would you just rather enjoy your girl, and maybe get another dog later to join her in your home? 7. Desexing her is not the end. You can still enter her in neuter classes at shows. And you can use her to LEARN more about the breed. Every dog we own teaches us. There is nothing stopping you getting another down the track which you can potentially breed.

1. Rest. 2.Rough play can be damaging to growing bones and joints so be sure to limit and restrict play with your older dog. See the recent thread in the General forum on exercise and how much is too much. 3. What are you feeding now? What makes you think the current diet is inappropriate? (before you change, first understand why change may be needed). 4. Supplement with what? DEFINTELY NOT CALCIUM! I would perhaps add 900 to 1000 mg Vit C (as sodium ascorbate - NOT other forms) per day if you are not doing this already (continue to do it till the dog is at least 18 months old).