espinay2

No.

To make it a little easier, I have attached two photos of this breed.

https://www.petcetera.com.au/index.php?l=product_detail&p=539

Whenever I have had a pup come to me that pees on bedding, The way I have handled it is to firstly make sure I take them out very regularly and also to change the bedding as soon as they pee to make sure no smell lingers in the crate/bed. If the smell stays they are more likely to do it again. With persistence I have found that they will stop and no longer soil it. It can be frustrating at times though, particularly when a pup pees on clean bedding after just being outside to pee, then does it again 5 minutes later after you have just changed it! :laugh: . As I said though, if you are vigilant and ensure the bedding is changed quickly and kept clean and they are taken out enough it generally doesnt take long for them to stop. Edited to add. One way to prevent this problem begins with the breeder. If a breeder 'litter trains' the pups in the whelping box the pups learn not to soil their bedding and there is less of an issue when they go to their new home: http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/breedingdogs/pottytrainingpuppies3weeks.htm http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/breedingdogs/mastiffwhelping4weeks.htm http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/havanesephotos.htm

Greek Alexander's Molosser (Skilos tou Alexandrou)

IMO no issues about the puppy. Of more concern to me would be if a pup can get through your fence, what else can? You may want to ramp up security.

Go to the US website, click on the product, then click on Complete Nutritional Analysis, which shows the As Fed levels of Calcium and Phosphorus. You probably already know this, and I don't mean to sound patronising, but it might be helpful to other posters/visitors to the site... The As Fed levels are what you actually get in the bag, while the Guaranteed Analysis is the guaranteed minimum. ETA: I don't know why the Aussie website doesn't have this option As you have looked it up, you may want to post the % then? .....

Believe me no high drive dog comes close to a wolf. But I don't feel breeding for intensity and drive is a 'backwards step' as it is really only in recent years that dogs have been 'softened' for the general pet buying urban environment.. There are many dogs in many places that still retain that intensity which is IMO more the norm.

Thought it was! :). Having problem with Internet connection and can't send a photo from the phone so can someone take my turn please! :-/

The fox itself wouldn't smell, but the enclosure would have. Here is a good site for containment ideas! :D : http://www.inetdesign.com/wolfdunn/containment/

Gascony Hound (Grande or Petit Bleu de Gascogne - no way to tell size exactly from the photo) but a poor version perhaps if it is.

Puppy zoomies are good and the best type of exercise, so clear the decks and let the games begin :laugh: I posted some info in this thread here (scroll down to post #27) on appropriate exercise for growing dogs that you may find useful.

Good luck! And whatever happens, all I can say is boy that transformation has been great. Can't wait to see ome show pics!!

I have been lucky enough to work with a range of canids in captive populations including wolves, fox and coyote in the US and dingo here in Australia. All very interesting and very different. The Dingo I worked with were quite standoffish for the most part, could take you or leave you and were easily distracted. VERY high prey drive and care needed to be taken when walking them around the facility as they tended to fixate. Small children crying they were VERY interested in. I found them generally easy to work with though. Note these were not animals raised in a domestic situation but were habituated to handling by their carers. Wolves are a whole different kettle of fish and even when hand raised in isolation from the pack and with 24 hour human care and contact from around 3 days of age they are never domesticated. A reasonable degree of training can be done (a good friend of mine has been responsible for the traning of 'ambassador wolves') but they are really only habituated and not pets in any way shape or form. Note that the behaviours exhibited by both dogs and wolves are the same. It is only the frequency and intensity of certain behaviours that varies. The agonistic behaviours in wolves for example are much more intense as is their prey drive which is through the roof. A handler/keeper can not even go in an enclosure with them if sporting a minor injury which causes them pain (eg wincing) as it is a weakness they can pick up on and can lead to a challenge (which means a keeper gets injured). Feeding is NEVER done alone (there is one case I know of where habituated wolves killed their keeper at feeding time - unfortunately there was no one around to help him when he was challenged and he paid the consequences). Respecting their power, they are however great to work with and respond well to management and training using positive rewards/clicker. Watching them stalk a child through a (double) fence though is rather spine chilling and fascinating at the same time. I have only worked with one coyote, but found him in many ways similar to a dingo to handle. Not as intense as a wolf. Foxes are fun! a bit different being vulpes vulpes not canis lupus, but great to work with. If only they didn't smell up their area so darn much.. (usually why those that decide it would be cool to keep one as a pet give them up as it truly is horrible!)

Yep, take the 'boston bun' etc for morning tea if you take anything, but it is not expected. Totally agree that it is very good to go before the pups are born to meet the adult dogs. ALL pups are sucker bait so what you want to see is the adults as that is what you are going to have to live with. They will want to see how you interact with the dogs and if you can cope with them. Just be yourself. It is also a chance for you to see if you have a rapport with the breeder and if you think you can become 'friends'. Having a breeder you can talk to and who can mentor you is invaluable. Don't overstay your welcome if you can. Remember that breeders have busy lives and likely more than one person visiting them (though play it by ear - going when there are no puppies may or may not mean the pressure is not as great in this respect).

Calcium source? Important in general but very important for a bitch. Why the slippery elm? Usually only really needed for diarrhea/gut issues (Levy uses it in puppy gruel when initially weaning and then only for specific health issues) I agree, grains may be too much you may want to up the protein. Even Levy recommends more meat and bone than it appears you may be feeding. If you want a similar type diet I recommend reading her book and following her suggestions at least. Yoghurt would be better than milk as lactose is broken down and it contains probiotics. Eggs? Fish? Two things I would add once or twice a week if you are not. Veggie oil adds fat as an energy source but is low in omega 3 essential fatty acids, containing mostly omega 6. So a better omega 3 source is likely worthwhile.

TBQA? Thoroughbred Breeders Queensland Association? (to do with breeding racing horses and nothing to do with dogs) If she is in Qld, she should be registered as a breeder with the CCCQ: http://www.cccq.org.au/ (which is an affiliate of the ANKC). Sounds like it may need some clarifiaction. Edited to add....run - don't walk - away........

Wild guess: Glen of Imaal Terrier?

These kennels are ones that have a few things in them I like (and where I originally got the idea to use planters on the runs :laugh: ) They have a great looking platform arrangement http://www.idigadog.com.au/kennels.htm

Agree totally. IT is important to remember though that there are some breeds where the distinction is still minimal and breeders actively work to keep it that way. The distinction only exists in some breeds. (lets not make this another 'work versus show' thread - we have had enough of those) Yes it is important to note that a CONFORMATION show is only judging CONFORMATION and nothing more (look up the word folks if you don't know what it means). It is but one piece of the puzzle. I think it's definitely true that a good trainer will get more out of a dog but at the end of the day you can only bring out in a dog what is already there genetically. An interesting read is Mary Roslin Williams book "Reaching for the Stars" (formerly Advanced Labrador Breeding) where she discusses structure and working purpose. In discussing the shoulders for instance she writes: "unless they are long and sloping the dog will have difficulty with a heavy hare, will be very much slowed up physically, however mentally fast he is, and tend to somersault when coming down a steep slope or jumping a vbig fence with a hare in his mouth". Also of interest is the fact that a 'test' itself can change what is considered 'ideal' as competing in the test becomes more important than testing 'natural instinct'. The advent of the long distance retrieve in Labrador retriving trials, for instance, as related by MRW, resulted in an emphasis on faster and more agile dogs than the traditional Labrador, and more 'greyhound types' were bred for which were "athletic enough to fling themselves over in a style quite unlike the former Labrador work" with "handlers becoming more important than the dogs themselves" as the handler was expected to guide the dog straight to the bird in a trial rather than the dog having the ability to seek it out (with dogs actually being penalised if they were required to 'set itself to hunt' - a necessary trait in a working dog when it comes to bringing in shot game). Tests for 'working ability' are therefore not infallible either.

So how to test a livestock guardian dog? This has been Discussed ad Nauseum over the years in the LGD community and by some researchers and there is no simple and easy test that can be applied, particularly off territory. It comes instead from observation of a dog over time. There is limited ability to test this in the conformation ring and that is generally well understood. All the conformation ring can test for is basic mental soundness with some understanding that different breeds will display that sound ess differently ie some may be more aloof or reserved than others a d this needs to be differentiated from shyness and vice versa. There is limited ability for more understanding in the short time a judge has to assess a dog. In some countries these breeds such as mine must also pass a temperament test but even with that it is recognized that this only tests general mental soundness and not working ability. It should be noted though that an understanding and assessment of form should tell us a lot about working ability. A standard is designed to produce a dog that is structurally fit for purpose. A dog meant to work in a harsh environment with a flat and thick double coat is not going to benefit from a standoffish open one. A breed where tight eyes with good pigment are specified may be more prone to eye or skin damage with looser eyes and/or missing pigment. A straight shoulder or short neck may prevent a retriever from picking up game in the quickest and most efficient manner and the dog may break down more easily. In this respect Pat Hastings book 'structure in action' is worth reading. A dog whose structure impedes its work will not work as well.

We have a winner! too easy perhaps :D

Well done! Yay! :D Here is the next one:

Mioritic :D

Very similar to our set up although instead of runs they get devided between paddocks, house yards n home made kennel run areas when not with me etc. Yes, the dogs aren't in the runs too much. Some days or weeks hardly at all. I find them extremely useful though and wouldn't be without them.