espinay2

Agree 100% A harness encourages pulling as the dogs lean into it. Their is a reason sled and draft dogs wear a harness. I now specify in the classes I teach that dogs not be on a harness unless there is a specific medical reason that precludes wearing of a collar (as I teach at a vet clinic it is easy enough for them to discuss their concerns with the vet). There is simply not enough control to be had on a harness for the average person - particularly when around other dogs. I refuse to put my pugs in collars because of breathing issues, and also because they can slip collars off their chunky necks quicker than you can blink. As a teacher of something (I don't know specifically what you teach, sorry!) would you still not allow a harness on a pug? As I said, if there was a genuine medical issue (breathing) then harnesses would be used. I may also suggest a martingale collar that would not slip over the dogs head. I have had pugs in the classes before. Some have worn collars without issue. One wore a harness. She had to work VERY hard on the control issue..... One of mine is perfect on a harness, one is like a freight train and is on a sporn :laugh: Just curious as someone mentioned in another thread harnesses weren't allowed for obedience etc and I wondered how pugs or brachy breeds went if they were forced into something they weren't comfortable with. If they are taught not to pull in a collar, they are very comfortable in one ;) Photo (I captioned it for an article on walking on a lead): Dog is on check/choke chain which while you can't see the collar in his fur, it is loose around dogs neck. Pup is on a martingale collar. After 1 week on lead, she no longer pulls (though will need consistent reminding as she grows, simply by me stopping when the lead goes tight)

Agree 100% A harness encourages pulling as the dogs lean into it. Their is a reason sled and draft dogs wear a harness. I now specify in the classes I teach that dogs not be on a harness unless there is a specific medical reason that precludes wearing of a collar (as I teach at a vet clinic it is easy enough for them to discuss their concerns with the vet). There is simply not enough control to be had on a harness for the average person - particularly when around other dogs. I refuse to put my pugs in collars because of breathing issues, and also because they can slip collars off their chunky necks quicker than you can blink. As a teacher of something (I don't know specifically what you teach, sorry!) would you still not allow a harness on a pug? As I said, if there was a genuine medical issue (breathing) then harnesses would be used. I may also suggest a martingale collar that would not slip over the dogs head. I have had pugs in the classes before. Most have worn collars without issue. One wore a harness. She had to work VERY hard on the control issue.....

Agree 100% A harness encourages pulling as the dogs lean into it. Their is a reason sled and draft dogs wear a harness. I now specify in the classes I teach that dogs not be on a harness unless there is a specific medical reason that precludes wearing of a collar (as I teach at a vet clinic it is easy enough for them to discuss their concerns with the vet). There is simply not enough control to be had on a harness for the average person - particularly when around other dogs. I think the RSPCA started an anti check chain campaign - they wouldn't sell them in their pet shop. But then the campaign seemed to fade away. And yes, check chains, in silver, gold and black, chain and snake chain are still used in the ring And when they are used properly, you aren't jerking it on the dog. I train mine on flat collars and when they are good on the flat collar, change to a choker. And if the dog is big, it is possible that the check chain just might avert disaster in a bad situation. I don't understand how those people being towed along by cavaliers on harnesses can tolerate it. I have put it down to a failure to be able to train to a collar Yes, I use check/choke chains on my dogs in the show ring and out of it. I do start my dogs off as pups on a martingale collar and they learn from day one that if they want to go anywhere on a lead, the lead stays loose. They never learn to pull in the first place. I prefer a martingale and recommend them as they are safer than a buckle collar - so many dogs I have seen can 'back out' of a buckle collar and get loose. Can't do that with a martingale. But I do like a check/choke chain too as with it up under the chin and behind the ears you can have a lot more control when you need it (useful when walking a large entire male through a tight crowd of dogs for example). No jerking necessary if they learn not to pull in the first place as the dog takes the cue from the collar and loosens the tension itself. This is exactly the type of crap I hope my puppy homes avoid: If dogs bite each other shouldn't it be natural for us to emulate them to train them? It all depends on your morals and ethics whether inflicting intimidation or pain on an animal is an acceptable behavior. It is part of human behavior in a society to bully, rape and kill each other, but that doesn't make it moral or give one the right to do it to other people. Because dogs and wolves bully, fight, and kill each other does not make it acceptable for us to emulate their behavior towards our own dog. Dogs play-fight using their mouths, see the photo above left, but that also doesn't give us a right to use collars or intimidation to manage or train dogs. Jerking a dog on a collar could suppress a behavior from happening, but it can also cause behavioral side effects such as aggression and frustration How do you think and LGD would respond to 'positive only' training? Depends what you mean by 'positive only'. LGD certianly need good leadership (which is all about confidence and attitude, not aggression), but I have used 'positive' methods to train all my dogs and they respond very well. (Just don't expect them to respond like a labrador, border collie or other more 'people focussed' breed! I will say that while I teach using primarily positive methods in my classes, there have been dogs that I HAVE suggested a check/choke chain for when I can see things are not working for them and helped them to fit and learn how to use them. Sometimes they most definitely are a useful option for some people and after seeing them struggle for several weeks with a pulling, choking and out of control dog on a buckle or martingale collar, to have them in one lesson change to a happy team with the dog walking happy and attentive beside them on a loose lead is great to see. What works for one, doesn't always work for others and vice versa.

Some before and after shots of my girl 'Grace'.From 7 weeks to 3 years of age.

I keep a separate computer 'health record' for each dog. Basically just set up using 'table' in a word document. It helps me keep a good picture over time, I can pick up any health patterns and keep a record of their care. In it for the bitches I keep information on each season. When she comes in, when she goes out and any other information I have (progesterone tests, days of mating, days when males are more interested and want to get to her etc. Helps me work out when she is due and to note any other patterns. A copy of the basic template I use is attached (hopefully!) Health Record - Template.doc

I am an expert in training pups and teach 'supervision' to the classes I teach as a golden rule ......which is why the new pup has eaten the couch cushions

Take the bandage off. Then put a sock over the leg and bandage/tape the sock on, but don't bandage over the claw. Leave the sock loose over the claw. This will allow better air flow for healing but provide loose protection over it. Dogs often do better with something loose over it as it is more comfortable. I would also use something more drying on the wound than the honey. Honey is good but often the moistness is half the problem. I would use beta diene or an antiseptic powder before applying the sock.

Not that hard to tell a bitch in standing heat even with a coat as the swelling can be fairly obvious in most/a lot of cases. Regarding blood tests, I presume you mean progesterone. That will not tell you when she is coming in, but gives a guide to when, during her season, she ovulates. Prog won't show anything until the season is well progressed and is only useful when done as a series of blood tests during the season (it is used for timing matings). There is no test you can do that will tell you when her season will start. You just need to be vigilant and watch for signs.

Just saw the question about diluting. I have a hydro bath do not an issue, but if you don't, put some shampoo in a squirt bottle with water to dilute it. It will make it easier to apply and it will go further. Also when dealing with stained coat (red clay ) I mix the whitening shampoo with the PP deep cleansing shampoo.

Great Espinay, can I pass on my unused bottles to you? You're nice and local. Very happy to take them off your hands! Thanks! :)

I use and prefer Chris christansen and plush puppy. The white shampoos will enhance both black and white. Rinse with some sea breeze oil in it and it helps protect the coat. You can also buy the purple dye separately from wampum. I use a capful in the bucket along with the oil for my final rinse.

Particularly important to stay well away from any that you do not have 'proof' what breed they are (i.e. registration papers from a registered breeder) in this time of Breed Specific Legislation. Having that proof may make the difference between you happily keeping your dog and having to give it up because you can't proove it is not something else (as this thread clearly shows).

This is the World Small Animal Veterinary Association Guidelines on vaccination (on which the Australian Veterinary Association's vaccination policies are based): http://www.wsava.org/PDF/Misc/VaccinationGuidelines2010.pdf Go to the appendices and read the 'precautions' section for each of the 'core' vaccines, which lists the age before which vaccinations should not be given to puppies. Note that as the core vaccines are not available separately, but as a 'C-3', while the guidelines may specify not before 4 weeks for distemper, they specify not before 5 weeks for parvo, so the vaccine should not be given before 5 weeks of age.

seems a bit odd..esp if pups are papered ..AND going at 6 weeks ? Clear breach of ANKC code of ethics. And against State Law in NSW to sell or give away any puppy under 8 weeks. The breeder should be reported to Dogs NSW and the local council. The ANKC code of ethics requires puppies to be vaccinated at 6 weeks and not released for 2 weeks after. It also requires them to be microchipped and wormed as does State law. Definitely find another breeder as this one is completely unethical. The receptionist at my vet told me when i rang that its legal in nsw to sell puppies at 6 weeks... am waiting for my vet to call me back re original question.. thnx to those who assisted Sorry, but your vet's receptionist is wrong. Perhaps you can pass her a copy of the NSW Code of Practice for Breeding Cats and Dogs so she can hand out the correct information to anyone else who asks.

Breeder here: http://southernstarsarp.com/index-old.htm I have sent them an email with a link in case it is one of theirs.

IMO toilet training can sometimes be just as much an issue with inside dogs, particularly if the pups have been allowed to toilet indoors in the puppy pen/whelping area as they can get used to toileting on that surface or the bedding in the whelping box. This can sometimes make an inside raised pup harder to toilet train. As mentioned it really depends on how they are managed not where they are. The situation Dunbar mentions is about raising a litter in isolation without stimuli. That certainly is not good but i do not agree with his blanket lumping of all dogs raised in a room or building that is not the kitchen or living room as brong no good for pets. I know of litters raised outside (garage or shed) which are provided with excellent stimuli in a wonderful setup for pups. These pups raised this way have gone on to be well loved pets, grand champion show dogs, hold agility, obedience and other performance titles, have been on stage in the theatre and are all round great dogs. Not being physically raised in the breeders house has certainly not affected them negatively.

As mentioned, it really depends on the breeder. There are some breeders who raise their dogs 'outside' that I would choose way above some raised in a 'house' as they get far more handling, socialisation and exposure to a wide range of experiences, sights and sounds. It really is something that needs to be looked at on a case by case basis rather than a blanket yes or no. As mentioned too, you also need to look at the 'whole package' that contributes to the creation and upbringing of the puppies - not just one single element.

The 'skirt' is usually used to refer to the hair on the side and underside of the torso (which on coated breeds can form a 'skirt' hanging down). A Lab should not have this though. She may have been confusing 'skirt' with 'pantaloon's which is the hair on the rear and rear of thighs? (again, more prolific in coated breeds).

May depend exactly where they are and whether they can get the dog to the groomer or need one to come to them. Dog World in Hume or Isabels Dog Grooming in Phillip are two I would perhaps suggest. Are they in Canberra or outside? (which canberra 'region' implies).

'The Perfect Puppy' by Gwen Bailey The booklets/ebooks (available from dogwise.com) 'How to be the Leader of the Pack' and 'how to houetrain a dog of any age' by Patricia McConnell et al

Personally I don't care if a person chooses to eat meat or not (and was vegetarian myself for a while). A person has the right and the capacity to choose what they put into their own body. The case of the dog is different though as they do not have the capacity to choose for themselves because we have taken that right away from them. There is therefore a GREATER responsibility when it comes to feeding a dog than when it comes to feeding ourselves. The two really can't be compared.

Oh that is hilarious!! :laugh:

You can purchase dog run panels from places like Metalmart in Fyshwick (I use the metalmart ones - very strong and you can move them or put them in any configuration you want). Or Col Weston Sheds (in Mitchell) does dog runs with sheds attached.

As far as I can remember, there is one study conducted in the late 60's which sampled one arctic wolf with a comparison made to two dogs, and a variation was found between them. More studies have been done just on dogs and there have been a variation in results between them as well. I would note that in this context no real comparison has been done on the effects of maternal diet on these results. Though there are other studies looking at individual effects on milk composition of maternal diet, for example in relation to long chain polyunsaturated fatty acid content. Mech does mention that some commercial dog milk replacement formulas are too low in arginine for wolves and pups may develop cateracts without additional arginine supplementation. However, this issue is not restricted to wolves: http://jn.nutrition.org/content/132/6/1688S.short

Canis familiaris (the original classification given by Linnaeus) was reclassified as Canis lupus familiaris by the Smithsonian Institution and the American Society of Mammologists in 1993. The Dingo is classified as Canis lupus dingo. The genetic difference between dogs and wolves based on DNA is not really a good argument for different dietary requirements given the genetic diversity existing even within wolves (and dogs) themselves: http://www.wolf.org/...canissoupus.pdf (it is a bit like saying that because one haystack has a needle in it and the other doesn't that they are not both haystacks). To date there is no evidence found or presented that the gastrointetinal tracts and major internal organs of dogs and wolves are different. This also presents an interesting read: http://www.bconnex.net/~langevin/assets/applets/The_Wolf_s_Natural_Diet.pdf