espinay2

I have used medipulv powder from the chemist with success. Wash with warm salty water or betadene, dry as well as you can then apply the powder. Powders tend to work better as they dry up the area.I have never shaved the area, but you do need to have the hair well brushed out so air is free flowing. If the hotspots reoccur in a similar location, you may want to check if there is an underlying 'weakness' of some kind in that location. One dog of mine would get a hot spot of the same area of the back each year for a number of years, right over an injury site.

What about this? : http://boldleaddesig...cking-jaw-snap/ or this: http://www.ruffwear.com/Knot-a-Leash-Rope-Dog-Leash

I found some good ones recently at Payless no less! They had a good range of styles. Three of us went in for a look and came out with two pairs of 'show shoes' each! Lol! Yes my sketchers hurt too. If price is not an issue but comfort is paramount homeped also had a few nice styles. You can find them usually at pharmacies. I find a good way to get a feel for what shoes may 'work' is to look at show photos and see what people wear. There are a wide range of styles that work. Main thing is that they are comfortable, won't come off, have enough tread they won't slip and you can run in them. For wet or damp weather you may need something a bit more hardy than you can get away with at other times too. They should also 'blend' if possible so they don't stand out too much.

Countrybrookdesign. I like their martingale collars. Nice quality hardware (welded rings etc) and stitching is top rate and solid. In particular I like their one inch heavy duty martingale collars which are solid and VERY unlikely to come off or undone in any way: http://www.countrybr...ars/1-inch-wide I have bought a few things from them now and have been impressed with the quality every time (as well as the price). Also Premier martingale collars which are a similar design.I have Premier collars which are over 15 years old and still as good as the day I bought them.

Exactly!!

We do not know what the dog would do or would not do. All we know is what the dog did in that one incident. From that incident we know that the dog attacked two other dogs while running loose and unaccompanied and did enough damage to draw blood. Based on that fact alone, and NOTHING else, this is a reportable incident. Anything else is irrelevant when it comes to deciding whether to report something or not.

deleted as I suggested fenugreek, then reread you were already giving it

From here: http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/groups/reproandneonatalcare/ From Dr Hutch: "For most bitches a progesterone reading of 2.0 nanograms (one billionth of a gram) indicates a surge in the luteinizing hormone (LH) from the pituitary gland, which triggers the release of eggs from the follicles, Hutchison explains. When progesterone levels reach 5.0 to 10.0 nanograms, a bitch is ovulating."

Glad you like them :D . I don't really go for human names, but funnily enough three of our current dogs have them! Mainly because my OH had had naming rights on some of them and he seems to keep picking them :laugh: . So we have Hamish, Grace and Louise...... Agree that using Zebedee in those circumstances is probably not a good idea.

Another good article is this one (an oldie but a goodie): http://www.lgd.org/l...ry/dogfight.htm Having been bitten years ago by one of my own dogs (accidentally) when trying to break up a fight by grabbing a collar, since then this is a method I have tried to employ. Sometimes not easy to think clearly when faced with the situation, but it is certainly best to take your time and think how to do it rather than wading straight in (doesn't mean you are acting slowly, just that you are acting with precision). Luckily I have rarely needed it but it has worked well any time I have used it. And the recommendation of a cup or glass of something 'soothing' and a good blubber as you get over the adrenaline rush can be good advice too! To the OP. Good on you for acting in the situation and I am certainly glad you came out unscathed. I too would report it. As a witness I would make a report on any attack where another dog (or person) was injured. I am not going to conjecture about why the attack happened, or why the dog was wearing the collar, or whether or not anyone else will report it and whether there were 'extenuating circumstances' that I don't know about. That is not my role as a witness. But what you saw as a witness - a description of the people/dogs involved, what you heard and saw, what you did - eg you saw the dog attacking the two others, you pulled the dog off, the dog was wearing a dangerous dog collar, you noted blood from the dog that had been attacked etc is all you can report. What is then done or not done with that information is out of your hands, just as whether anyone else reports it is out of your hands.

Unless you have to drive 300 or more km to get it. Or no one has one when you want it. Certainly at the time I made mine it was the cheap option as I looked. If someone can find what they want cheap then great!

As mentioned though, establishing a club in that manner is of no use if the aim is ANKC affiliation and the ability to run shows and events under ANKC rules, which I understand is what the OP is looking at.

Yes, before you have a national club you need three viable state clubs. We have tried unsuccessfully several times to create a viable third state club in my breed to no avail. So one of the state clubs more or less acts as a pseudo national club even though it functions legally as a state club. Best bet if you have no clubs at all ad a starting point may be to try and establish a state club in the state where breeders are most numeric and/or where rules make it easiest, then encourage out of state members to join too.

I dont think anyone I'd saying breeders shouldn't take responsibility and assist dogs they have bred when they need it. Just that they shouldn't be slammed if in some cases those dogs don't physically come back to their homes.

Yes, certainly in my breed, while numerically small, most breeders work as a network to help any dog of our breed in need that we find out about. It is great when the breeder can be identified as they generally then will take an active interest in ensuring its welfare whether it comes back to them or not. But even if the breeder can't be identified they step up to the plate. Quite a few, including myself, have taken on dogs and even given lifetime homes to more difficult rescue cases.

It is possible to reevaluate a dog without it being on your home. A dog may not need to come back to the breeders home even if they do have the ability to take it there and in some cases it may not be beneficial for the dog to be brought into the breeders home depending on its individual needs. . And there are all sorts of circumstances which may make other arrangements necessary - being in hospital, recovering from an accident, death in the family, being overseas, being retrenched from a job etc etc. No one can plan for everything no matter how hard they try. Taking them to your home may be the plan but no one can guarantee that they will be able to without a Crystal ball. To do so is head in the sand stuff. I would prefer a breeder to be ready for all contingencies and be flexible to different situations than blindly spout the 'take everything back' mantra.

I think the point she is making is that a foster carer may elect not to take another dog but let another foster carer handle that one. A foster carer in a rescue is usually not the only one.. Every situation is unique and just like one individual foster carer may not at some point in time be able to take in another dog into their household there and then, so may it be for a breeder. as mentioned though, just because a breeder does not take a dog physically into their home does not mean they do not care or take responsibility. Like a rescue coordinator they may oversee the welfare of the dog and make arrangements for its care and welfare. this is taking responsibility too. As long as the breeder actively takes an interest in ensuring the future welfare of a dog they bred what the heck does it matter if the dog actually comes to their home or not.

Must admit when I did it it was done more as a service. It was organized by the club, advertised by them, and I charged a nominal fee per dog to exhibitors. It worked well though. We got through quite a few dogs in a short time as everyone was very organised and generally had thei own dryers and tables. So it was mostly a basic bath fee. I washed a lot of them, under strict instruction then handed them off for the rest. We generally put dogs in the bath as quick as we were taking them out! I don't think I was there all day though. I think I did a couple of blocks of a few hours each. The times were advertised with the show info. Couldn't get rich doing it and would definitely not rely on it for income. As an occasional thing though it is good. But then I loved the odd jobs. I also bathed show goats!!!!

Fluffy.... 'cause he's not! Bruce. Because he is born to run ( though you don't want human names. So you could call him Boss. ) Xpress. No stopping!! Bolt. Fast runner!!! Fly. Goes so fast he almost does. I had a dog called Zebedee growing up. Zebby for short. I have also had a Halley - named after the comet. Twistie (one of our cats) because life is pretty straight without her.

Agree with HW you really need a diagnosis at this point and the chemicals may potentially make things worse in some instances and be ineffective in others. If you want to do something in the meantime I would actually not be bathing too often as it will remove natural oils from the skin. Rinse with vinegar if infection is suspected. But again depending on the condition this may be ineffective and you really need to know what it is so you can treat the cause appropriately. Until then you may just end up with a situation where you are throwing money and effort at it for months (as you pretty much have already) to treat it to no effect when the right treatment may clear it up quickly.

Big shows such as nationals and big weekends of shows you may find have the most interest. When I had a van I was contracted a few times toprovide services at some Nationals (did the Cocker National in Canberra one year). The day before the show was the most busy with people who had travelled from interstate using the services. Mostly of the bath. A lot had their own dryers. Note that most would do their own drying and even the bathing would be under their supervision, or they would do it themselves with you overseeing use of the equipment, and with their own products generally. After all they need to be groomed a specific way for a show and it HAS to be EXACTLY the way the owner wants it!!!!

Welllll, my Sis is one of the promoters for the show. Just asked her about a blog and this is what she wrote... " Ahhhh.....welll....you can tell them we are launching one next week! Bruiser and Rufus will have their own Facebook pages soon and our amazing dog trainer, Peta CLarke is busy writing a blog to be launched on the Legally Blonde website asap" So stay tuned folks!! Ask and ye shall recieve!

Yes, it may not be the only answer. Genetics can sure play a part in some cases! Something to put out there though as in some situations it may be relevant. Here is an article by another author that discusses the issue. The article jumps around a lot and is a bit strange in places, but it does talk about some of the things to consider in relation to light exposure - either lack of it, or exposure to the wrong type at the wrong time: http://www.thedogpla..._Andrews-06.asp

BTW, look around on places like gumtree too. You can sometimes pick trestle tables up for a song. Then just need to cut the top to size, reattach the legs and buy the matting for the top: for example: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/toowoomba-region/other-furniture/trestle-tables-x-4-perfect-for-markets/1009349817 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bargara/other-home-garden/trestle-table-with-folding-legs/1008598736

Jeez that is EXACTLY like one of my tables!! (so much so it could be it! :laugh: ) To make it I bought a wooden tresle table on Special at Bunnings (long time ago). We shortened the top and then stuck the blue pyramid matting on top. It is a great little table (and no I don't use it for the Pyrs, just puppies and smaller dogs. Though it is a very sturdy table and can definitely take dogs up to Border Collie size without issue) One important thing when choosing a table is to look at the legs. The legs determine how stable a table will be. If the bottom (inverted U shape usually) is low and wide it will be more stable than if the U is longer. For example the grooming tables in the first and third pictures are less stable than the second and fourth (if the pics are in a different order - the good ones are labeled 'good grooming table'). If you look at the pic above too, the legs on that one are good and stable.