espinay2

While it is a US company, the prices are very reasonable, the collars are good quality and you can get made to measure: http://www.countrybrookdesign.com/ They can also be quite adjustable. The large martingale collars for instance will serve a Pyrenean from around 10 to 12 weeks to adult. Oh yes, and the colours and patterns you can get are great :)

13 December 2012 Dear Member, You will no doubt be aware of the recent media coverage of animal welfare issues involving a DOGS Victoria member. This incident cast DOGS Victoria in a bad light and the Government expects us to be more active in ensuring that our members comply with what is required of them under the legislation and our own rules. Therefore DOGS Victoria is reviewing its monitoring and regulatory procedures. This letter is intended to remind you of what is required of you as a member of DOGS Victoria regarding your obligations in complying with our Rules, Regulations and Codes and the legislative requirements of the Domestic Animals Act 1994 and the Prevention of Cruelty To Animals Act 1986, and to advise you of changes that will impact on all members. When the Domestic Animals Act 1994 was proclaimed, DOGS Victoria (then the Victorian Canine Association) was granted the status of an Applicable Organisation, under the Act. This status grants DOGS Victoria members the right to discounts on council registration fees for their dogs and allows them to have up to and including nine fertile bitches on their property without having to register as a Domestic Animal Business. Non DOGS Victoria dog owners who house more than two fertile bitches on their property are compelled by law to register as a Domestic Animal Business and that requires them to comply with the Code of Practice for Breeding and Rearing Establishments, covering issues such as staff numbers, animal husbandry, microchipping, vaccination, health care, sale of puppies, hygiene, exercise, construction and size of animal housing, record keeping etc. The Code can be accessed here: http://www.dpi.vic.gov. au/pets/about-pets/legislation-and-regulation/domestic-animal-businesses/operation-of-breeding-establishments. Note that this Code is in the final stages of a review; the updated Code will be released early in 2013. As you can see, there are important advantages for us as members of an Applicable Organisation. However, these advantages are dependant upon us fulfilling the State Government’s expectation that as an Applicable Organisation we will have self regulatory programs in place to monitor our members to ensure that they comply with our Codes, Rules and Regulations, and also with the relevant legislation. Non DOGS Victoria owners are monitored for compliance by local council officers. Members of DOGS Victoria who are given the advantage of exemption from the Code of Practice are expected to be monitored by DOGS Victoria. The Rules, Regulations and Codes of DOGS Victoria already allow for monitoring of members’ compliance e.g. Regulation 3.7.7 states It shall be a condition of membership that a person, or persons, so authorised by Management Committee may inspect the premises of any member and examine the dogs on the premises at that time. DOGS Victoria will be increasing the number of checks currently in force. In addition, as a reminder to members all future applications for a prefix and renewal thereof will require signed compliance with and acceptance of the right of DOGS Victoria to audit the individual breeding premises. The purpose of these audits will be to ensure that all members are complying with our Codes, Rules and Regulations, and the legislation. The majority of our members are complying and therefore will have no concerns with such audits. But we must not allow a few who do not comply to place every other member in jeopardy. The status of Applicable Organisation is a privilege which grants our members real advantages. In return DOGS Victoria must self regulate to ensure that our members comply with all Codes, Rules, Regulations and legislation. If you have any questions please forward them to the DOGS Victoria office. Peter Frost President

A letter from Dogs VIC to members http://www.dogsvictoria.org.au/Portals/0/assets/members/letter-to-members.pdf

Lets see. Take vulnerable pups into a range of different environments and then bring them back together again each day. No real provisions for the possible transmission of disease as I am betting pups are not quarantined after coming back to the shop. Just because the owners other pets are vaccinated doesn't mean that the pup is not vulnerable to things like Parvo or Kennel Cough. Particularly a pup under 12 weeks of age! And not to mention the stress of being in different environments with seemingly no real controls placed on the carers apart from having a blanket for the pup or it sleeping in the persons bed ?????

If they want to do a longer cut, the thing to remember with clippers is that it has to be free of knots and well combed out for the blade to go through. The blade has to go under the knots and won't easily (or if at all) clip through them. It is easier to clip a clean and well combed out coat. IF it is diry/matted, they will have to go the short route and shave it off (or spend the time to wash and comb it all out first). They are better off getting a decent set of clippers than a cheaper set. More power and better cutting action and will be easier to use. An Andis 2 speed is my personal choice (Clipperworld has a good range of clippers and accessories) In these types on clippers, a #10 blade is what you would use for sanitary areas and feet etc. This cuts it fairly short. If you were doing a short clip on the dog, you would usually use a #7 blade (or a #10 if they are very matted). For slightly longer, you would use a #4 or a #5. You can also use a #10 blade with a snap on plastic comb. This way you can make the cut longer too. The snap on combs definitely need a clean and well brushed out coat to be effective. Yes, a 'normal' person can learn to clip their dog, though may never be as proficient or fast if they don't get the regular practice. What can take 10 to 30 minutes for a pro groomer can take two hours or more for someone who is not proficient. You should get faster with time though. You CAN cut or burn a dog with clipper blades, so you have to take your time and stop to let the blade cool down if it gets too hot (pro groomers usually have multiple blades and switch between them so they stay fairly cool on the dog). Main danger points are around skin folds, ears, legs and underneath. Grooming on a table will make the job a bit easier and less back breaking (as a rule though a sore back is a given). There will be plenty of instructionals on the net on how to clip a dog, so perhaps a google search will turn up a few useful things.

This is me too. Though I tend to give an allwormer about once every 6 months or so with change of season (autumn and spring) I am in a low risk area for heartworm. Call me a bad owner, but I won't use chemicals and poisons when there isn't an identified need.

Agree totally with this. While trying to help another dog is honourable, we have to remember that as our dogs leader, they put a lot of trust in that. If we are putting our dog into situations where they are uncomfortable and 'at risk' that can be a 'failing' on our part as a leader. We have to be VERY careful that the dogs trust that we will do right by them as a leader is not compromised and that we don't 'leave them hanging' with another dog because we think they will cope with it. IT is our job as leader to control and protect and get between in these situations and in some cases, if we don't that relationship of trust that we will be there to stand up for them may be damaged, even if subtly.

Get a copy of the book 'Dogs Diet and Disease' by Caroline Levin. Google search will pull it up (look at the Lantern pubs site). An invaluable resource.

Evening with a snack in the morning. A routine that just works for me. I have more time in the evenings. I find they settle better at night. As an aside - Juliette de Bairicli Levy argues that the morning is 'eliminatory' and doesn't like feeding anything much before midday.

Just to clarify again are we talking about the written standard, or the physical dogs. These two things, in this context, are VERY DIFFERENT. The original comment was about the standard (I.e. the written words ) and NOT about the manifestation of that standard ( the dogs that breeders have produced which may or may not be a subjective interpretation of the written word ). Or that was my understanding. Which is why I ( and others) would like clarification of what in particular in the written words (not in actual dogs being produced by breeders) needs tweaking. Or is it really just the interpretation that is the issue and are the words themselves fine?

So is it the standard that you dont like, ie how it is worded in the standard specifically, or is it the individual dogs themselves. The two things are VERY different. This is what I am trying to understand (not making a judgement on your views, just interesting to hear other people's as it all contributes to learning). Can you identify one standard and what it says that you personally think could be worded better?

Yes my question too. Which bits of which standards specifically do you think need tweaking? And as has been discussed in threads on temperament before, it depends what you mean by temperament. What is correct for one breed will not necessarily be correct for another. It doesn't make either generally good or bad, just incorrect when displayed in the wrong context and vice versa.

Get the bloods done. Can you check his temp? Also remember not to stress and coax him to eat (as much as you may want to) as some dogs do react to that by not eating. As worried as you are, try and keep things 'normal' around him. Have you consulted the vets at the (Charles Sturt) University clinic? Might be an option if not. Write everything down that you are seeing. Everything that is 'not right' or 'not normal' for him. Keep a written record (just notes in a diary) of what you see and when/how he is acting and what he is eating. You may see a pattern. How about making up some 'meatballs' for him - something along the lines of the satin balls recipe: http://www.pekingeseaustralia.com/articles/satinballs.htm I would be running the tests to see if there is a reason though. Instead of tuna, I would use mackeral or salmon in that order if you can't get sardines. But is tuna is what he will eat, then use it.

This is supposed to be a pure lab, her litter mates were all yellows and one black, the owners had two labs and insisted that no other dog had got to the bitch. Both adults were registered but the owners were not If you look at the link posted previously, you will see similarly marked 'splash' pups. The ones I love are the ones described as Hailstone Labradors. I don't know that there have been any around recently though. Getting back to the OP, I will be interested to hear the outcome in relation to reporting etc. Did you get a photo of the sign with the pups? That may help.

Steve I love this approach and think it is a great one. I had someone (a younger person) call me the other day looking for a puppy and wanting to breed. A lot of what they said sounded warning sirens and In the past I may have kept it short and sweet. But then I thought 'where is our future?' and decided to talk. To explain a bit about what was involved and that while I may not end up having a puppy for them I would be happy to help them learn. What they do with the offer is up to them and you can't force someone to do something they are not willing to do, but at least I have offered a different path rather than closing and locking the gate. By providing non judgmental information (there is a difference between explaining why a particular path may have more positives and being judgmental) they then have knowledge on which to base decisions and can choose.

To teach your puppy to toilet outside you need to do a number of things Remove the newspaper and teach him to toilet outside only. No inside option. You don't want the pup learning that going inside is ok sometimes even just on newspaper. Unless you always want them to toilet inside on newspaper etc. start as you want to go on. Supervise your pup in the house. Household privileges must be earned and are not a right. When you can't watch your pup have your pup crated or in a pen or outside. The most important one is to take your pup outside to toilet frequently. At this age your pup has little bladder control so will need to go out lots. After play, after waking up, after drinking or eating, first thing in the morning (early) and last thing at night. Also maybe during the night. Take your pup out every couple of hours at least. Take your pup out on lead. This is not play time it is toilet time. Praise after they go. If your pup goes to the toilet inside or on its bedding, clean it up immediately. If you catch them in the act , be a banshee and yell aaaagghhhhh! Loudly at them to interrupt them and then take outside. If you didn't see it, resolve to be more vigilant in supervising your pup. You can only correct if you catch in the act. The aim is to take them out enough that they don't have accidents.

Depends what he needs and his health. A basic all wormer like Drontal or Canex will do intestinal worms. The pup is getting old enough to start heart worm too if in a HW area but I might hold off for a month or so if not in good condition. I dont like giving the all in one with flea and tick type products if possible and would rather dose worms separately. Too much chemical on an already depressed immune system can be just as bad as not treating. I would Only use a flea product at this point if the dog had fleas for example.

Socialization = no. Desensitization (which is not about the dogs actually meeting, but about teaching the dog not to react when it sees another dog) then maybe and only in a very controlled way. I have used my dogs for desensitization in the past, but would never put them at risk through direct interaction. I do agree with HW that in many cases trying to push dogs to 'socialise' is not in the interests of the dog. We have to remember too that meeting lots of strange dogs is 'unnatural' as dogs/ wolves will not naturally socialise outside of their immediate pack. Dogs don't need to meet lots of different dogs to be 'happy' and in fact in many cases it can just add stress to do so. Rather they should learn if possible not to react to the presence of another dog around them when out and about.

You may want to let him know that in NSW he is required to abide by the Animal Welfare Code of Practice for Breeding Dogs and Cats which is available on the DPI website. It applies to ALL breeders. You could always print a copy off for him.

$12 is cheap! Pups are a lot of work.

Grace is 'Gracie Mae Pudding' or 'Princess Pudding'. Louise is 'Louie Louie', 'Weezie' or 'Baaad Puppy' Hamish is 'Hamie Poo' Milou was 'Boo Dog' Halley was 'Huggey Bear'

As mentioned you need to address the immune system internally. Good diet in general including things like fish oil, garlic, Vit c, a decent probiotic like Protexin etc which all assist immune function. If the owner is having a bad time, stress may also be a contributor for the dog. Wash the skin regularly with vinegar ( white is fine - sold in big bottles). This helps with secondary bacterial infection from itching and helps skin condition. If skin is broken, dilute a bit at first. You can also put it in a spray bottle to spray on between baths. I find the medicated washes to actually be too harsh as they remove too many of the natural oils. Something like Fidos herbal rinse is better IMO.

Yes, I would still consider him a 'singleton' and treat him as if he is one, as you are raising him during the important socialisation periods without the benefit of littermates. Here is information on the development periods that may help you: http://www.briardsbriards.com/oa_pup_behav.htm Here is a good article: http://susangarrettdogagility.com/2011/02/the-singleton-puppy/ Are there organisations that can help you find someone with other pup to help? (I have no idea where you are). Vet clinics or dog clubs or rescue organisations or breeders for example, if you approach them, may have some ideas. As my breed has double dewclaws on the hind legs as an important breed trait I see no issue with a dog being polydactyl :D . There are quite a number of breeds that have this trait.

If you use a fan (small 12V car accessory type one with a 12 volt battery pack/charger - here you buy them from places like supacheap auto etc) put it on the long side of the crate up one end so that the dog can get out of the direct airflow if necessary. That way the dog can move in and out of the cooler air as it needs.

Can you provide a stronger probiotic to help settle and moderate his system? Something like Protexin would be good. Also read up everything you can on the net about raising a singleton pup.