espinay2

Good on you! I would be fit to do some real damage if anyone dared try that on me.

Regardless of the ethics of breeding or not breeding this particular dog, this IS (if the claims are true) a case of theft of services. At the very least the owner of the dog would have a right to compensation in the form of a stud fee.

Looking at the paws was likely checking the paw shape (which is specified in the maremma standard). While having hands on the dog the judge is often measuring proportions etc (as per the standard). The judge can not know if there is something wrong with joints by feeling (that needs an X-ray) though you can get some idea of some issues when the dog moves. The judge can only judge the dog on the day and if the young dog was all over the place and throwing its legs around then that is what they will see and the judge has no way of knowing that is not the dogs normal gait. There are things that you can see on the move that you don't see when the dog is standing still so remember that what the judge sees is not what you see at other times but exactly what was presented to them (an immature dog with legs going every which way??) and it is on that basis they decide whether in theor opinion a dog is at that single point in time worthy of the title of champion. They don't have to behave perfectly, but at 11 months should be controlled enough to settle and move reasonably evenly regardless of weather so they can present themselves in a reasonably true way.

Yep, the points bit always makes my head spin :laugh: The rest is easy enough once you get the hang of it, but I think I would actually have to be over there doing it rather than just watching from the sidelines to work out the points properly (particularly as getting/breaking majors sometimes seems a bit like a chess game! )

Not a new name for Eagle Pack - just another product line put out by the same company. If you are feeding the large and giant breed puppy formula it looks ok on paper (though I have no experience with this particular product line and in a quick look could not check the total calories to compare that aspect). Yes, I might cut out the chicken mince, and add veggies and the occasional egg. I would probably still give sardines once or twice a week. But talk to your breeder first. They are the best person to discuss this with.

Definitely talk to the breeder and take their advice first and foremost. A few suggestions though if your pup is going east/west. The two main issues to be aware of when growing larger breed puppies is overall calorie intake and amount of calcium. With large breed puppies, they generally require less rather than more of both. Increased growth and calcium can manifest in growth issues and going east/west is often one of the first you may identify. If a puppy is going east/west, in general terms two things I would consider doing would be decreasing overall calories and decreasing calcium. There are two foods, based on my research and experience etc, that are IMO 'better' for growing large breed puppies. These are Pro Plan Performance (which is an all life stages food and better than their large breed puppy formula) and Eagle Pack Large and Giant Breed Puppy. These two have a better balance when it comes to calcium intake etc for growing large breed pups. The other thing I suggest is not feeding too much extra bone. A smaller meaty bone daily for chewing exercise (e.g. half a chicken frame or a beef brisket bone) is good, but any extra meat mixed in the food should IMO be boneless (so not chicken mince which has bone in it). You can include things like pulped veggies (these increase volume but can help decrease overall calories if you feed them as a portion of the diet). Also eggs, sardines once or twice a week etc as well, but keep an eye on calories and be sure to keep your pup lean. FWIW

Sheesh, My male Pyr is only 65kg (and he is far from small! - 74.5 cm at the shoulder and solid). People are often disappointed when they hear how much he weighs as they are always sure he is more :laugh: . No way could I imagine an 80kg Rottie.....

I am sure every dog food manufacturer would send research to anyone who asked to show that theirs is the best. I did hear that Iams did some research that was really callous but whether or not this was accurate I really don't know. It did put me off the product though. Yes, I'm thinking of controlled studies not funded by the industry. If you can find one, good luck to you. Studies need funding and the only ones with an interest in funding them are generally the food companies. There is a wide range of studies out there which focus on a wide variety of canine nutrition topics, but I don't know of any on long term health that would be considered 'unbiased' .

Different countries have different requirements in regards to importing a dog and you need to check the individual requirements with those countries (their consulates can generally offer advice and provide infomation). There are also different requirements for bringing a dog back to Australia depending on what country or countries they have been in and you will need to check that thoroughly. It will pay to know which countries may pose difficulties for you if you travel to them and which ones will be easier to manage. You will need to comply with the quaraintine restrictions when bringing your dogs back home (just as if you were importing a dog) so it pays to become familiar with what they are and do the necessary preparations while you are there so they can come back when you do (depending on how long you intend to stay, you may need to start preparations soon after you arrive so all requirements are fulfilled by the time you are ready to come home again). You can find information on the AQIS website.

Ok let me try. I may not get it all right but here goes! Winners dog and bitch. Like challenge (in that you get points) but minus the champions (as an aside they tried something similar at Sydney royal a few years back ...). Best of breed competition the winners dog and bitch go into the ring with all the champions (both dogs and bitches). The judge then chooses best of breed from them. Also best opposite ( ie is a dog is given BOB the judge chooses the best bitch from those in the ring and vice versa). From the Winners dog and bitch they also choose best of winners (though if one of them goes BOB over the champions they get it automatically). Now the points bit is more complicated and I admit to not fully understanding it. The winners dog and bitch are awarded points as a 'major' ( their rough equivalent of our challenge points). The number of points in a major is worked out based on a regional formula and on how many dogs compete on the day. Different regions require different numbers of dogs to be competing to 'make up' a major and determine the number of points. To be awarded a champion title the dog has to win a certain number of higher point majors as well as lower point ones.

Yes, but as the question says - what do YOU eat :laugh:

In which case the Elephants are the losers too. They do no one any favours - least of all the animals in need - with underhanded dealings. Unfortunately it seems to be the way many such organisations are heading these days

If he has had it, it is possible. It can be hard to get rid of if you have it on your property. Try to limit access to the chook poo if you can (hard I know if you have free ranging birds. You may need to rethink how you manage the dog and birds though). Definitely back to the vet .

Yep get him checked for coccidia perhaps.Next time he has an episode, take a stool sample for testing. You might want to add a probiotic to his diet. Get one in capsule form from the chemist or health food store rather than giving yoghurt though as it is stronger. You will find them in the fridge section.

Yes, I am better at controlling my dogs diet than my own :laugh: But we do try to stick to non processed foods, including growing our own veggies, our own eggs and some of our own meat. We are far from perfect though! And while on a natural diet, as I believe it is healthiest for them, our dogs do get 'junk' from time to time as a treat - they are not averse to the odd hot chip, ice cream, sweet biscuit or pizza crust themselves! :D

I don't think anyone (certainly not me) expects a fence to eliminate risk. In my situation at least, having a clear dedicated area that can be easily monitored (not something I can do currently with sheds and tanks and other structures in our farm house yard) and a fence that is a deterrent to most snakes will certainly help to reduce risk significantly.

Yes, I was thinking just cover the whole darn fence with the stuff LOL! It certainly is horrid stuff to use - I use it on the smaller poultry pens and that is bad enough. Outside would be best, as you say. Would be great to see a photo of your new snake proof kennels once done.Looks like we both have a bit of work ahead of us

My intention of posting was about importing, I had someone tell me to have another breed ( a more rare breed) this had nothing to do with breeding really but it is a thought. And yes your right, like I said health tests, confirmation, temperment will all have to be considered if I do choose to breed. Won't be for a year or so at least... the dog that is timid is a pet, my bitch that I show is not timid. She has the normal spunky papillon temperment. And with the thought 'overseas dogs would be better than aus dogs here why do you think they would be better?' There is a beautiful beautiful japenese chin dog at the shows I often go to, this dog in question usually wins bis but dont get me wrong, it is a beautiful dog and only have seen a couple of others here. The one from overseas has a lovely coat, a really nice head (from what I have heard other people say) and the owner is a nice guy, I have struck up a convo with him and the dog was quite friendly. Maybe its just a cliche thay 'overseas' dogs are better, but all I know that the dog is goergeous and I would love to have one. Yes overrall thanks eveyone for your time and posts, I have decided to put alot more time in and will be going to speciality shows. My partner and I are planning a working holiday overseas for a year and this is why I was asking about importing... when we do eventually go I will be going to shows there aswel Glad you are planning to put the time in as I think you can benefit a lot and we never do stop learning. To clarify a few things: You were not being told to get a rare breed, someone who has a rare breed was relating their experiences with that (and the fact that because it is rare they need to import more as the genepool is small). Yes, there are some good quality dogs from overseas here (you have met one and are basing your assessment on that?). But not all of them are (and there are quite a few you will never see at shows!!) Import does not automatically equal quality. Each individual dogs will still need to be assessed on its own merits regardless of where it is from (in the show ring, when it is being judged, where the dog is from is of no consequence). A great idea to spend your time overseas getting involved with the dog community over there. Will you be taking your dogs with you?

Let's not lose track in this thread. I think it can be useful to learn about how snakes behave and what we can do to help keep our dogs safe. Learning what will work and what won't can be important and I for one appreciate the offer of help to try and understand them better so that we are not dealing with such an unknown. I too would like to know how high the mesh will need to be to prevent poisonous snakes climbing.

Truth be told if you want 'upmarket' you are unlikely to find it on the road from Melbourne to Sydney! Particularly if staying with dogs. The jolly swagman is the best I have found on that route though, is actually directly on the route and close enough to half way to be useful. http://www.jolly-swagman.com.au/

I googled snake proof gate. On my phone so will add the link in a minute.... Here it is: http://www.ok-corrals.com/Arizona/AZ-Small-Dog-Kennels.htm

Thanks! The times we have seen the snake has been middle of day/early afternoon but will be taking greater care at other times too! I hate summer - it is just so restricting and I feel like I am on a knife edge the whole time. Looks like I really need to get that yard built... One more question. If we use the existing yard fence for part of the yard, trenching close along that bit may not be so easy. Will snakes push under wire if we clear along the outside of the fence, create a 'lap' with the snake wire and peg it down with tent pegs (on the outside of the fence) with it along that side? A pic of fence attached (from after it was erected there is more grass on the outside now). It has a lap on the inside with the existing wire so we cant dig down on the inside (of course this wire is not going to stop a snake). Or is digging down somehow going to be a must. I would rather not compromise the stability of the fence by digging beside the posts if I can help it though.

Was a time when having a horse fed to the hounds at the end of its useful life was considered an honourable and noble end. The doggers clean up the messes made by others. It is the other end of the chain that needs fixing if anything is to be fixed. I have bought from Burns before and found the quality to be good. Like DC we sometimes will do a run down and stock up. As an aside, DC can you tell me more about your Canberra source please? Always on the lookout for good local suppliers.

OK, I will post here as may be interesting for others I guess. Snakes are my biggest summer fear for the dogs and I know the more I know about them, the better I can manage it. We have a snake here at the moment. It is living somewhere around our houseyard (about 1 1/2 acres - but I know the basic area it is in). I do know that we have a few too many inviting things here, and will be working through winter to help fix that (too many hiding places particularly under construction materials (pallets of bricks etc) and we have chickens - in the process of moving pens further away and into the orchard). We are rural, about an hour from Canberra, and we are surrounded by native grassland. While we can help to limit what is around in the longer term to make it less inviting, I need to manage this now and know how to deal with our current resident. And frankly I know that living with snakes will always be something I will likely have to manage here. I am not exactly sure what type it is. It is brown in colour and a pic of part of the skin it shed in our herb garden this week is attached. It is about 4 foot long at a guestimate. We have only seen in close up once this year. It was basking near a garden bed when one of the dogs started sniffing it. My OH was right there with her and realised it was a snake. Snake did not act aggressively thankfully and thankfully neither did the dog (we do have one 'dragon slayer' and thankfully is was not him!). Snake took off through the empty dog runs and disappeared (I was more concerned with getting all the dogs inside and away so didn't see exactly where it went). That encounter was about 2 weeks ago. We have been checking around but have not seen it since except for the skin. We did have two snake sightings last year in similar places. Again not agressive, but was a little smaller and was black in colour (no red belly). So wondering if it was the same snake?? At the moment the dogs are either inside or in the dog runs during the day and walked on lead if outside of the runs during the heat of the day. They are outside loose in the yard from about 4am to 7 or 8 in the morning and again from about 7 or 8 pm until late depending on how hot it is. I have done this in the hope that I am avoiding those times that the snake is likely to be out and about during the day. Any tips on normal snake movement/behaviour so we can 'cohabitate' safely much appreciated! Or would it be best to try and get it removed? Also tips on snake proof fencing. I was considering fencing part of the yard as a puppy exercise run (about normal farm fence height) and thought maybe it could double as a summer exercise yard that I could let them off lead in (but supervised) during the day. Basically a confined clear grassed area within the bigger yard. The design I was thinking of was to trench and partly bury snake wire all the way around, and at the gate to cement/pave the entrance and use a snug drop down panel in front of the gate a bit like this (have to get a ride on mower in so a permanent stepover not practical). Would this work? Thanks for your expertise!

The Jolly Swagman at Holbrook. They have two dog friendly rooms. Very comfortable. Not sure but I think it is a max of two dogs inside.You would need to call and check.