espinay2

To add to Wundahoo's excellent information, here is a link on managing vaccine reactions by Dr JEan Dodds who is considered a leader in relation to the issue of Vaccinosis: http://www.dogs4dogs...jean-dodds-dvm/ Skimmed an interesting article by her too that mentions that dogs with predominantly white or colour dilution may be more prone to vaccine reactions: http://www.dogsadver...redisposed.html Titres don't cost the earth. As I mentioned in the other thread currently running on Titres, I paid $59.65 to get one run about a year ago. This series of videos is worth watching as it is very educational on current research and need for vaccination. Dr Ronald Schultz who is being interviewed is considered a leader in vaccine reseach and a major contributor the the WSAVA guidelines (on which the AVA and Australian Government vaccination guidelines are also based - all of which recommed vaccinating every three years rather than annually). Link is to the first of 4 videos: As Alyosha suggests, I also strongly recommend reporting the reactions. It is only through people reporting that an accurate understanding of reactions can be gained.

oops double post. But to add, a 'normal' vet may add their consultation fee on top of this. If doing the test through Vetpath though, it should not cost the earth.

Just checking my records to see how much it cost me.... Ok about a year ago I paid $59.65 for a Titre through Vetpath for Parvo and Distemper. This was the fee for the test 'without consultation' through Kate Millhouse in Canberra. For this price she drew the blood, sent it to Vetpath, then sent me the report from Vetpath. Simples.

I use a holistic vet in Canberra to do my titres rather than my normal vet. Mainly because it is easier as she does them all the time. I have a good working relationship with my own vet though and really the issue has not come up. When doing titres, you only really need to do parvo and distemper. Dr Ronald Schultz ( foremost researcher on vaccines) suggests only doing these two. These two can be done in Australia. They only need to be sent overseas if testing all three (AVA advises the turnaround for sending titres overseas to be 10 to 14 days and that a large number of labs in the eastern states accept samples for testing). This series of videos of an interview with Dr Schultz is well worth watching (link is to the first of 4 videos). He discusses titres in them: Lou x, it is recommended by the Australian Veterinary Association and the World Small Animal Veterinary Association as well as the Australian Government's Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authoritythat vaccinations for 'core' vaccines generally follow a three year protocol i.e. vaccines given every three years (after the initial puppy vaccinations and first 'booster' a year later) rather than every year. The protocols also discuss and support titre testing.

Here is another one of Casper:

Having Pyreneans you learn a lot about dog intelligence. VERY intelligent. NOT biddable. If you want them to perform tasks or behaviours for you they have to have a VERY good reason to do it. But their reasoning and problem solving capabilites are sometimes simply astounding. They are dogs bred to think for themselves. I find it endlessly fascinating just to observe them. Stanly Coren's book 'the Intelligence of Dogs' is worth a read. Much maligned, but mainly because the 'list' is taken out of context. He clearly explains in the book that his list is in relation to one aspect of 'intelligence' only ('obedience intelligence') and does not take into account other aspects of intelligence such as adaptive intelligence or instinctive intelligence.

Exactly my thoughts too (yes I was actually thinking of typing 'Ugh!' before I saw your reply LOL!) Fortunately there are many vets that are pro-raw too (and many who will not have an issue with it despite their own personal views on diet). Can you give a general location so someone can give you an alternative? If you happen to be in the Windsor/Richmond region, try the Bligh Park Pet Health Centre which is the clinic of Dr Tom Lonsdale (of www.rawmeatybones.com ) FWIW I have given raw meaty bones to my dogs for around 20 years now and never had an issue.

Yes to me they are all very different. There are definitely similarities and sometimes there are things that remind me of other dogs, but they are all so individual as well. Basically I get to keep the 'sameness' I like about a breed but still have very different dogs. Compare it to people - sisters and brothers or even cousins have things in common, but they are all very different people.

A must watch is this video from Pugs SOS of Rescued pugs on the beach with 'Salty Rain'. Well worth your time!

That he was recommended by Wyburn is good to know. I had wondered if he had suggested anyone in particular.

Rebanne, can you tell me why? Privately is ok.

Ethics. Particularly in how they place puppies and what they do after they are sold. But also in their general actions. As mentioned above, it has to be someone I would be happy selling a pup to (and I am fussy...) Outlook. I want to know what they plan to achieve and what their goals are in breeding the litter and in general. All the basics - registration, prefix etc. All the i's dotted and t's crossed. That the dog will complement the bitch both phenotypically and genotypically and I am happy that the dog will have something to contribute. That they are honest on what they need to improve on or issues they are aware of. I will be honest, and I expect them to be too. Health testing. For me, if they haven't done even the minimum of hips I would personally not even consider. If they want to use one of my dogs, it would be a condition that they have to be done first. And I want to see the paperwork. While not being titled or not showing is not an immediate no, I would want to see evidence that they are learning and can be objective and are developing an all round dog knowledge through their activities. Some showing/competing/working of some kind is a plus, particularly as I would want to see progeny of the dog out and about achieving things.

Prior to this I have always had all my hip and elbow scoring done by Wyburn. I like to send them all to the one place for reasons of consistency - he tended to do most of our breed that was scored. Of course he is no longer an option and I now have a few more coming up that will be of an age where I will be scoring (I score at 2 yrs). So my question is - if you were picking and choosing which scorer to send to (rather than sending through CHEDS and taking pot luck), who would you send to, and why? Note I am not interested in choosing a scorer because they are an 'easy marker' (that does no one any favours) - more wondering who is going to fill Wyburn's shoes for me as someone who was consistent and whose views I trusted.

AS mentioned - a standard email really helps. My email basically covers the following: Thank you for your enquiry..... If you have been researching the breed you will know that ..... (pros and cons) My breeding plans, information on what a puppy from me costs and the basics of what they get for a pet puppy, limited reg, microchipped, vacc etc etc etc. Explain that I have a waiting list, that it is not first come, first served but based on placing pup in best home for it etc etc Tell them if they want to be on the waiting list I have to know them better. Attach a questionnaire as a first step and explain that it is also designed to help them decide if the breed is suitable for them. Invite them to call or email me to discuss further if they wish. If someone has asked specific questions, I will cut and paste and then edit to add any additional info that has not already been covered. I find this approach is quick, provides the info that people need up front, and gets rid of the tyre kickers. It also has helped some decide that the breed is not what they are after, but they have thanked me for the great information. the serious ones generally come back with a completed questionnaire and/or more (reasonable) questions so we can begin a decent and useful dialogue.

What a sad situation. Dog bites in the heat of a fight when someone gets themselves in the way trying to break it up are unfortunately not uncommon and can be deadly if bitten in the wrong place (even one 'accidental' bite in the wrong place can kill a person). But wht made me double take was where they police statement said rest of the pack joined in attacking the owner after the Boxer lunged at and attacked him. It does seem that not all may have been rosy when it came to managing their pack. It does make you wonder at what 'pre warnings' went unheeded.

Some vets give discounts to their breeder clients. Maybe that is why the difference? Still it is quite a huge difference. Glad you have it sorted.

OFA ( www.offa.org) . It is an 'opt-in' system though so you must choose to list your dogs results. OFA is also linked to CHIC which is a system for some but not all dog breeds. Breed clubs list the 'required' and 'optional' tests necessary for dogs to be listed as having a 'CHIC number'. CHIC (and OFA) is about listing results both good and bad. the CHIC system rewards those who list regardless of there results. Australians can list their dogs with OFA (CHIC will be dependant on the requirements set by the breeds US breed club). My dogs were used earlier this year by OFA as a 'test case' for the listing of Australian certifications (AVA hips and elbows, ACES eyes, heart certificates etc - I do patellas through their program and also do DNA testing for DM through them). You can list 'outside' results for a dog I think for a one off fee. My dogs are here: http://www.offa.org/display.html?appnum=1466783#animal and http://www.offa.org/display.html?appnum=1556295#animal

Some resources for you: http://www.lgd.org/Deer-vs-Cattle_LGDs.pdf (one example of LGD working with Cattle on a specific role) http://www.canids.org/occasionalpapers/livestockguardingdog.pdf (paper on the use of LGD worldwide) http://www.lgd.org/library/protectiondogs.pdf (paper on the use of dogs against large carnivores. Generally though with a large predator load/threat you want a larger number of dogs - one or two are not going to be effective) You may want to consider joining the 'learning about LGD's" group on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/LearningAboutLGDs/ If memory serves me right, some there are some there that have dogs working with cattle. Another excellent resource is the LGD-L email list. you can find the info for the list on www.lgd.org

When you say 'registered' what do you mean?

The HSUS Spin on it: http://m.humanesociety.org/news/press_releases/2013/12/breeders-lawsuit-threatens-USDA-retail-rule-121813.html#.Usd52J8ayK0

My puppy buyers are screened VERY carefully. But I don't discriminate based on whether they work or not. I have owners that work and owners that are home. Some are only dogs and some are not.. And all puppies are given the attention and training they need to make them well rounded and happy pets. I spent several years grooming and going into people's homes. It was made very clear to me in that time that whether someone worked or not was not a good indicator of the care and attention a dog would receive. Certainly every Home situation has its challenges and yes there have been times (often) when I would rather be home with my dogs than going to work. But more important than whether someone works or not is the priority they give their dogs welfare. What steps do they take to be sure their dogs have a good life. Taking their dog to work with them, taking time off work when their dog needs them, making sure the dog is a big part of their life and not simply left in the backyard. Being sure to cater to their need for a stable routine, a good leader, a safe environment that is good to live in, adequate rest and adequate mental stimulation and inclusion in the family pack. These types of things can not be determined by profiling a person based on whether they work or not.

Oh wow. What a thread! I work full time. I have always worked full time. I am so glad the breeder who sold me my first dog was fine with me working full time. I am pretty sure Halley (my first dog as a full time working single adult) turned out pretty well lol! (on my website under 'in memory' for anyone wanting to see how screwed up the poor girl was ....) When it comes to raising puppies, an interesting point that was emphasized to me recently reading the book 'keys to top breeding' was that many stressed how important proper rest was for a pups growth and the observation that this was often lacking in pet homes where they were with owners all day where a pup was often over stimulated by too much activity. Dogs are crepuscular. Which means they are naturally most active at dawn and dusk. Even when I am home, for example, my dogs will sleep for much of the day. When it comes to socialization, more does not automatically mean better. Indeed many behaviour issues IMO may relate to too much of the wrong type of socialization at the wrong time. A pup is not necessarily better off being bombarded by experiences all day every day as opposed to controlled and carefully targetted experiences in the morning and afternoon/ evening and on weekends. Many problems with separation anxiety often stem from a pup not being taught to be on its own from the beginning. Even staying home with a pup for several weeks and then going back to work can cause issues as the routine change is so great. Even when staying home for a pup it is important to acclimatize it to being left alone. Many of the dogs I know with the severest separation anxiety are owned by people who do not go out to work as the dog is not taught to cope in the absence of its owner. Most of the breeders and dog owners I know work full time. They have well rounded and well socialized dogs of many different breeds. The dogs do plenty of activities with them and with their family. They are part of the family. They certainly have not 'suffered' in any way that I can see from the fact that their owners are not with them 24/7.

Stressed dog. I wouldn't exactly call it 'cute'!

He was always quie a character and will be sadly missed. May his legacy live on.

As per others, when confirmed in whelp I put that on my website as an 'announcement'. Before that I just give a rough idea of when a litter is planned. I also have a fairly regular stream of enquiries. I have a basic process and a questionnaire once people get to a certain point in enquiries and use this for a 'waiting list'. Waiting list isn't first come first serve though and I make it clear from the beginning that this is the case and I will place pups in homes best suited to their needs. I have a decent sized list of people waiting, but the 'best ones' seem to rise to the top as things proceed. At least my experience to date. I do have a less numeric breed though and some waited 2 years to get a pup and were on my waiting list that long.