espinay2

www.liamjperkfoundation.org is a great website with lots of resources about children and dogs

I have a dog on Previcox long term and have had another dog on it in the past. Both without issues. We do a blood panel every 6 months to check how things are going and so far no effects on any values after about 2 years of use. I have found it to be a useful medication with less side effects than many of the alternatives.

I have had: Zebby (Was short for Zebedee. From the Magic Roundabout. As a pup she was on springs) Halley (Named after the comet because as a pup she was a little ball of fire with a long tail) Cookie (was a Dalmatian - choc chips! LOL!) Milou (named after the dog in the Tin Tin cartoon) Liza-Jane (A rescue who came to me as Liza, but was too blonde to be called just that. Her personality was 100% hyphenated) We have: Hamish (my other half named him ....what else do you name a French dog with Norwegian parents .... ) Grace (she is named after the Neil Diamond song 'Pretty Amazing Grace'. Held a lot of meaning right at that time. This pup was meant to be called something else, but she was 'Grace' from the moment I saw her) Louise (my other half again ... He gets to name every second dog and I just have to wear it. Have to keep the peace after all :D. She gets called Cheezle a lot though ) Nena (ok, back with the fun names. It is pronounced Nay-na. It is Spanish slang for sweetheart or baby. Her sire is from Spain ) Sookie (My other half actually chose a fun one! She is named after the Steppenwolf song Sookie Sookie, and she is a total sook) Oh yes, and the cats are Twistie (because life is pretty straight without her) and Teagah. I have a looong list of prospective names. Some of them include Yogi (not your average bear), Neska (Basque for young girl), Vida (life), Loca (crazy) and Cochon (pig). I have also always thought it would be fun to name a bitch Karma (as after all, Karma is a bitch ;) ). One name I have heard that I always thought was fun is Taxi. Try calling that when you are out in public.

Just a note - the breed is not called 'Great Pyrenees' in Australia (or anywhere except North America). It is Pyrenean Mountain Dog. I recommend going to the website of the Pyrenean Mountain Dog Club if Victoria for info on breeders (more than you have listed in Vic). Agree very much on comments regarding temperament as the breeds on your list are all very very different. A good basic guide to Pyr temperament: http://itsdogornothing.com/so-you-want-a-great-pyrenees/ The two issues health-wise you have mentioned are certainly the main ones to consider for the breed, but not the only ones. Here is a basic summary on the main ones (though I still need to add info on Neuronal Degeneration) http://espinay.com/health-issues

The Solvit ramps are great quality. I have one of the early models over 10 years old and still in fantastic condition. Very strong. Whether a ramp will suit your situation though will depend on your dog. I have had some dogs that take to the ramp easily. Others find it harder particularly if it is quite a slope. For these I use a large step. Mine is basically a home made wooden box. One of these days however I will see if I can sort out something with folding legs that is easier to transport.

Call Cryogenes. Located in Victoria. They can give you a quote. Really when it comes to shipping semen I am in the don't take risks category. You want it to have every chance of working so paying for proper handling is worth the expense.Cutting corners can mean the difference between getting a litter or not.

May be a strange question...do you think that those highly competative in your sport could potentially be doing exactly the same as they do in Greyhound racing to improve performance? About as likely as flyballers doing the same to improve their dogs desire to get the ball ..... In other words, just not going to happen.

I could be wrong, but I had heard it had closed due to illness? I have always used Cryogenes, who are excellent (BTW, love your kennel name. I have a dog named Sookie after one of their songs )

Ditto. I have as a trainer seen far too many issues when people buy siblings. They are often quite focussed on each other, get separation anxiety when separated and generally there is either one or both that just couldn't care less about paying attention to their owners. With two there is a strong pull towards letting them entertain each other and 'cutting corners'. The only time I have seen it really work successfully is when there are two owners who can devote individual attention to each of them and do individual activities with them away from the other, and also when they have other dogs they can put each of the pups with to separate them. I have raised two siblings at once (out of necessity when one pup from the litter was staying longer before going to its new home and I was keeping one) and the amount of work to give both the same attention and training that you would give to one (even with other dogs and a good setup to separate them) is at times exhausting if one person is doing most of the work (the pull of cutting corners is strong!). It is not something I would recommend to the average pet owner.

you can get human grade ones for reasonable prices. Often from bulk supplement suppliers. For example from here: http://www.daintreequalityherbs.com.au/glucosamine-hcl/

I use www.petguardians.com.au which are a registered charity with all profits going to aged pensioners and their pets. Definitely great savings buying online. I save about $70 every 6 weeks for prescription meds and postage is free and pretty fast (my vet does charge a small script fee and while the script has several repeats, we have a vet visit in between to check on status, do blood tests and renew the script as necessary, so the vet really isn't losing out).

How to match them? Talk to the prospective owners a LOT. I do like the prospective owners to visit if they can (even if it is a week or two before the pups go home or even before the pups are born) so I can get to meet them in person and see how they act around the dogs etc (puppies are sucker bait. I want to see them with my adults in particular). But lots of long distance conversations where I find out about their family, their lifestyle, what their aspirations are for the pup, what they plan to do with the pup and so on so I can get a feel for what life will be like with that family and what they are like as a family. I have a questionnaire that starts the process, but talking and asking lots of questions and basically letting me into their lives really helps. From there it is assessing the pups to determine who I think would be a good fit for them. That involves mostly lots of observation (based a lot on 'gut feeling' which is based on experience with dogs and lots of practice observing and understanding them/their behaviour etc), but can also include formal testing. One of my pups was going to an interstate home as a prospective therapy dog. With the assistance of the program coordinator we did some formal testing to confirm the puppy I felt was most suited to them as a family also responded appropriately to certain tests (usually you would test a whole litter and I would recommend this generally when doing formal testing). This was more for their benefit too as it meant they had something more structured than my word to see how the pup responded. His prospective owners engaged with me fully throughout the whole process (we still talk a lot LOL!). Dog in question is now a certified therapy dog and has been a fantastic fit for their family. But yes, they have put in the work to shape the 'clay' I sent them (and the fact that I believed they would is part of the reason they were even allowed to have one of my pups ;) )

As mentioned, registered breeders must under ANKC (and relevant state) regulations not place a puppy in their new home until a minimum of 8 weeks of age. State government legislation varies, however most such as Vic and NSW state they must not go to their new homes before 8 weeks. From memory Qld is an odd one out in this respect and does not specify a particular age? Many breeders will place pups later (noting 8 weeks is the minimum, but what is good for the pup can vary from breed to breed and also based on an individual pups needs). Studies show that pups need that vital time up to 8 weeks of age with their littermates (more so than mum in the last couple of weeks) to help learn 'dog language' and that pups placed early can have a greater risk of aggression and fear related issues etc as adults. Claims that a pup is 'old enough' at 6 weeks because it is 'weaned' is just cutting corners and not in the best interests of the pups or their new home.

Spinning Pyr hair has a long tradition. The fibre is beautiful. Very warm and really too warm for our climate. I have a beautiful Pyr scarf that I got in the US. The photo doesn't really do it justice. Very beautiful and soft with seed pearls through it. None of the Pyr hair items I have seen/worn have ever smelt like dog. I would suspect that any that does hasn't been prepared properly prior to spinning.

Agree with showdog. No breed is necessarily cat proof. Things can get out of hand in an instant when natural instincts kick into high drive even if they have never happened before (or even if there have only been small signs of interest/chasing when you are around). Safe zones and management to protect cats in your absence are generally a good thing regardless. High cat stands are good. I also have baby gates so the cats can have 'safe zones' in the house that the dogs don't go in when we are not supervising. I also separate them when we are not home. In my case the dogs are outside. But if you want the dogs to stay inside, having the separate areas for them (closed door or baby gate) when you can't supervise may be a good idea.

Getting info from the consulting vet is recommended. But as mentioned I strongly recommend doing a consult with Jaime at Primal Paws in respect to rehab. It really will set you up for success.

Regardless of the option you go with the important thing is the effort you put into rehabilitation. Rehabilitation can make or break the success of any operation or conservative care program and will lessen the chances of the dog tearing the other cruciate down the track (once one is torn the dog is at higher risk of tearing the other due to compensating for the first injury). I can highly recommend a consultation with Vet Jaime Jackson at Primal Paws in Sydney (as soon s you can) who can help you develop a post operative rehab program you can put into practice at home. Her consultation fees are very reasonable. I am currently conservatively managing a 10 year old Pyrenean who tore a cruciate over 12 months ago and is doing fantastically. With thanks to Jaime for setting up his initial rehab program.

Congratulations! You must be so proud of all of them. They look fantastic. It is so great to be able to see them grow isn't it. I love keeping in touch with all 'my' puppies. Grace's litter is 3 years old now. I know what every pup is up to and consider their owners to be friends. They each have their own page on my website kept up to date with pictures. You can see them here: http://espinay.com/a-litter

How often? Some may say too often, and some not often enough :laugh: International judges (particularly FCI judges as their system tends to encourage it more so they are more used to doing it) tend to withhold awards more often than Australian judges. Awards are often withheld at the Royals in particular, some years more than others depending on the judge. There were some dogs/breeds at Sydney Royal this year who were not awarded. I have seen dogs not awarded at other shows and have had one dog I was showing was awarded her class but not awarded a challenge many years ago now as the judge felt she was too immature (she had recently turned 6 months and was the only one of her breed present at that show).

That is part of it for sure. We have other shows with international judges as well though which while often a bit more of an unknown entity if the judge hasn't judged here before (many have), the Royals are a bit different for some reason - or stand out more I guess. Another factor I think is that they pull a slightly different entry demographic as you get more from different states or areas than you may normally. Some dogs and people also handle the venue differently I feel as the show puts a whole lot of different pressures on both dogs and people when compared to 'normal' shows.

When I had my Dally, I used the guide that if it was likely to stay below 10 degrees for all or most of the day I would leave a coat on her while she was outside while I was at work. She didn't wear a coat while inside (though when older did like to be covered by a blanket in her bed at night). The Pyrs of course never need coats. My Saluki may wear a coat a bit more often in winter (less body fat than the Dally). We shall see.

You might have just been there at the wrong time to say hello to the other dog/owner. The Royal is such a long day and very very noisy in the pavilion all day. Dogs/owners do need to take breaks. I was there on the first Saturday with my dogs. We took turns and rotated the dogs around so that the dogs and owners could have some down time but there was usually at least one of our breed up front for the public to meet. If someone wanted to say hello to one of the dogs taking a break, it would have been 'no, sorry, not right now'. Some may think it rude, but it is what is best for the dog. Also for me! After answering question after question for hours on end (Pyrenean mountain dog, about 60 kilos, from the Pyrenees mountains in France, Pyrenean Mountain Dog, no they only eat about as much as a border collie, Pyrenean Mountain Dog, 60 kilos, not they only come in white, Pyrenean Mountain Dog, no they don't eat that much for their size, 60 kilos ..... yes we do that all day and at about that rate of reply too ROFL!) there were times I needed to sit in my chair and close my eyes and ignore people for a while (can't leave because we have to look after the dogs ..). The show is sensory overload and when you are up from before 4 in the morning, at some point you need to take a break. As for the goings on, I can't comment as I wasn't there when it happened. Whatever happened it is very unfortunate all round, but perhaps best highlights two things - always be a gracious loser and save the venting for the car ride home, and always remember that you are the public face of all purebred dogs and dog sports and you never know who is listening, or what they may hear/how they will hear it (which may or may not be what was meant when it was said). And you are right on the judging. The Royals are always a bit of a wild card when it comes to who wins and who doesn't.

I have stainless steel. Just plain ordinary and non fancy. Easy to throw in the dishwasher and the good quality ones last forever (I have some about 20 years old that are still as good as when they were bought). For water I use either stainless steel buckets, plastic 'road refresher' bowls for non spill, and outside, glazed water pots from the garden centre as they are heavy and hold plenty of water while also helping to keep it cool.

Red Dog was my undoing. I was a blubbering mess. I had to recommend to some friends not to watch it. Marley and Me also not in my 'must watch again' book ... This website might have been handy LOL!

Given the long history of the breed I can see what they may be getting at even if the wording may be controversial. What they are IMO referring to is the breed as a 'landrace'. A landrace is a definable type that develops in a specific geographical area in relation to local pressures but may not be specifically bred for/created in any organised way (though individuals may certainly select 'good dogs' for their purpose') or named as a breed until later in its history. Most of the livestock guardian breeds developed this way for instance. Often landrace breeds can also be 'key' breeds used to develop other breeds. For example, the Pyrenean Mountain Dog is a landrace breed with a long history whose development is lost in time, which developed in a specific geographic area for a specific use - being shaped more by its surroundings and local culture than by any specific effort or goal by those that bred them. It was later on named and a standard developed based on what it was - not what people wanted it to be. The breed was used to develop other breeds including the Leonberger, Newfoundland and St Bernard. It differs from these later breeds in that it is what it has 'always' been. The same could be said of breeds like the Saluki. They are breeds which exist - but no one really knows how or when they came to exist as that is lost in time and not documented in any written history. They are breeds that just 'are' and have not been created by modern Victorian breeding practices. Edited to add: the Dingo is a landrace. Like the Basenji, New Guinea Singing dog, Canaan dog etc. The Dingo BTW, does have a breed standard and is recognised as a breed by the ANKC (unlike other breeds though the breed is not for exhibition). The Dingo is in the Hound group: http://ankc.org.au/Breed/Detail/127