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Everything posted by becks
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I've used both and find the TV on has just as good an effect as the sound CDs. I also do things like drop items nearby to get them used to sudden noises, you can start in the next room and then get closer to the puppy pen.
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In the past I have ultrasounded just to get an idea of numbers, the vets usually say 1 or 2 or more then 3! 4 weeks is fine for pregnancy confirmation, if you can't wait to know, leaving it a couple more weeks is more interesting as you can then see little puppy shapes (although not all if they are tightly packed in there). Last time I went, as I know the vet quite well, I said I just wanted to know colours and sexes :laugh:
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Yes - only 1st degree inbreeding is not allowed - father-daughter, brother-sister, mother-son. The mating you describe is linebreeding and not incredibly close at that IF the dog in question (the common ancestor) is an outcross to everything else in the pedigree. Does this also mean 1/2 brother/sister matings? No, that is still OK (as you seem to be adopting the UK rules on this. 1/2 siblings, auntie/uncle to neice/nephew OR grandfather/g.mother to grandchild are all still OK to do nd register
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Should Members Of The Public Be Allowed To Bring Their Own Dogs Along
becks replied to SwaY's topic in General Dog Discussion
We have rules about unentered dogs not being allowed into shows (this still stands for agri shows but as the agri show allows dogs, it is difficult to then stop unentered dogs from being around the dog show areas). Dogs who aren't being shown can be entered 'not for competition' and some shows allow the public to do this with their dog on the day - at least the club then has owner details for every dog there, should there be an incident - I wonder if a member of the public would give up their deails after an incident with their dog, or just clear off? You also need to look at what the clubs insurance specifies. -
My vet advises doing nothing as pups tend to grow out of it.
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Early days yet, I wouldn't be worried at all. Just keep with the chews, gentle tug games and wiggling when you can.
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I would keep giving her top ups over the next few days and just see how she goes, could just be from being weak again from not getting enough to keep her going during her time back outside
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Cavnrot, my old girl also had a contact lens fitted for the same thing and it cured the problem (although she later developed a dry eye and needed daily drops) but it was done by my normal vet (they are a pretty on the ball bunch at my practise) but in the case of recuring problems, I agree with the others and a specialist should save a lot of time and money in the long run.
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I just use boiled chicken breast for pups, cut it into small pieces and then you can still shred it into smaller bits still, so they just get a taste of it. With a sensative tum, I would also be looking at portion sizes, each treat as small as possible and not using to many in one days worth of training. A sudden large amount of any sort of treat can affect the tum of some dogs, especially if you are in a class for an hour and using lots of treats, maybe try to look at using other rewards too?
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Questions About Professional Groomers?
becks replied to PoppyDog's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
My first thought was she was crying because she knew you were there and some dogs do start to play up when mum is around - which is why a lot of groomers ask the owners to leave the dog for a set period of time. Cavaliers won't normally have a bum shave, especially if the body coat is being left longer. Tails don't always need much of a trim and each groomer will have a different idea of what makes a nice length for the feathers. Next time, try writing down what you want and then the groomer working on her can have something to refer to, so if you want the tail left with 5cm of feathering or just 2cm make sure you say how much as short to one groomer is either shaved right off or fairly long to another. It really helps me when people give me a measurement instead of just saying 'short' or 'cute and fluffy' -
How old is Erik? I would have thought that disticiasis would have been causing him problems in the first year of life? Have you got a magnifying glass? If you can use that in good light, you should be able to see any extra hairs, especially if you can move the light source around a bit. Sand, grit, allergies could be other causes, especially if he rubs the same part of his eye as that is the part most easily reached. Be interesting to hear what the specialist suggests it could be.
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Welcome. firstly, never, ever tell a dog off once you have got it, all that tells the dog is they are BAD for allowing themselves to be caught and can undo your recall training - inside you may wanna kill em, but you have to show them that finally coming back is the BEST thing and you should be all happy clappy to see them again (think how they react when you have been out for, ooo about 2 minutes! ) I have always let my pups off lead from 12 weeks, from their very first walk and on each walk do lots and lots of recalls, rewards with a mixture of praise, treats or a game and then letting them go off again. If you are having problems, then using a whistle can help - give a quick toot each time just before you feed your dog, so they thing toot=food and all good things, the sharpness of a whistle can help reach through the fog of dog wanting to explore/chase (if you catch them early enough in wanting to go) You can also work at home and then outside on 'leave it' for the times in future when a rabbit pops its head out of the bushes. With lots of training, you can recall off rabbits etc but it does take work and building up the distractions. For now, try to choose your off lead places for low distraction and keep your eyes open for potential distractions. You'll get there!
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Nice but he's standing on his head! Can you twist the picture round so he is on the ground? ;) my back isn't up to looking sideways at the pic :(
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That bit gets me - the KC will still register the litter and there is nothing on the registration papers to say if the breeder runs a backyard business or is accredited, so it is meaningless to say whether a litter is registered as AB puppies or not. The whole AB idea is a bit of a wonder. I just do not see how we can have 2 classes of breeders, breeders who take the proper actions and breeders who do not. But since this AB idea is being brought in down here too, then it must be part of the master plan and will be tied into the EBV schemes. BTW I really do not like the way some breeders (like you have above) are already implying that any breeders that do not buy into the AB program are therefor BYB. Here we go again, attacking each other. I for one have not gone for the AB (and I already did everything they require and more). I am opposed to 2 classes of breeders scheme, think we already have a culture of attacking each other and need to be finding ways to end this and certainly not be promoting it, and I totally do not support the whole AB scheme, that does not make me a BYB. Don't we have enough people taking shots at us without taking shots at each other? Haven't we run off enough ANKC breeders, do we really need our numbers of breeders to be cut down even more? You have totally misread what I said or chosen to twist my words to see insult where one wasn't there ie. An ABS breeder can do a breeding that doesn't follow the guidlines/rules of being an ABS breeder and the kennel club will still register that litter - the breeder is just not supposed to say they were ABS breeder at the time the pups were bred. They can be ABS before and after. When I registered my current litter, they emailed me to say the litter can't be registered under the ABS scheme as they had no record of the sires microchip - either send the number or instructions to register litter without ABS recognition!! The other point being, that there is nothing on the registration form for the puppy that states the breeder is ABS - this is a scheme being touted to puppy buyers as a way of stearing them towards breeders who are supposed to be doing their best for the breed/pups but at the end of the day, the puppy buyer has very little proof (and none of it in paperwork with the pup unless the breeder has spent out to get the official puppy wallets which don't fit all the info we have to supply with the pups!). The only way buyers know that my current litter is ABS is because it is currently advertised on the KC website in the ABS section for the breed. Yes, a puppy buyer could check by phoning the kennel club, but buyers don't even ask to see the paperwork for the health tests, just accept they have been done (I include copies in the puppy pack and explain what they mean).
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Here are the other 2, the names haven't yet been settled on a particular pup B. Fooled You and B Just Fooling (can you tell they were born on April Fools day? lol ) miss purple miss yellow and some fun shots after their haircut today
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Nice bums! To some degree we can take younger pups to a show but the open shows tend to be very crushed together and not an ideal place to take a pup to socialise. champ shows, we can't take unentered dogs. Here's 3 of mine who have left for new homes this weekend Baxter (Beanara April Fool) Inca (Beanara Fooling Around) (not the best pic of her front angulation!) Louis (Beanara Fools Gold)
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That bit gets me - the KC will still register the litter and there is nothing on the registration papers to say if the breeder runs a backyard business or is accredited, so it is meaningless to say whether a litter is registered as AB puppies or not.
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Since phillip oliver won crufts, we have seen a massive increase in giant schnauzer males at around 10 months - 18 months being rehomed as they are just to much for the average family with little kids. Dobes are much the same. Shame it is the dog who pays the price.
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What are you both using this herb to treat? i missed the other threads about it
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or do a search, there have been other threads with the same question and have lots of info in
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be glad you aren't in the UK, we can't show until 6 months old!
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Full article here link Using high-speed X-ray techniques, Crompton and Musinsky looked at what dogs do with the liquid once it's in their mouth. They found that dogs take a few laps before they actually swallow. Once the liquid is in the mouth, the dog brings its tongue in contact with the roof of its mouth, trapping the liquid between its tongue surface and the ridges on its palate. Then the dog extends its tongue again, still keeping it in contact with the roof of its mouth. "This is the really cool part," Musinsky told LivesScience. "Because the tongue is maintaining contact, but it's also sliding out of the mouth." As the dog brings another chunk of liquid up with its tongue, the tongue drops away and the first bit of liquid goes to the back of the mouth. Repeating the cycle again, the dog brings a new sip of water to the front of its mouth, swallowing the first lap of water and moving the second toward its throat.
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Still awaiting email reply before going ahead.
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Can I ask what benefits there are using a dog dryer vs a regular hand help human hair dryer? I groom my own boy, and just use my own hair dryer set on the lowest heat function. I'm careful not to over dry his coat. I have never looked into a dog dryer before, but thinking it might be something I should look into. I have played on an special dog dryer, the benefits are: 1)On a stand/rack no need to hold them 2)They are crazy strong- but no heat There are other more show related benefits too! If I had hairy dogs I would definately invest in one. Depends on the dryer! I have a stand dryer that has 2 heat settings and 2 power setings I have a blaster dryer that blows air at high speeds which will warm the air a little but has no heating to warm the air. This one is wheeled about on the floor. Before buying a dog dryer, you need to know what you want it to do and how you will be using it. I was a mobile groomer for several years and only used a hand held human dryer and it did a really good job, you can blow dry a poodle coat straight with it if you are also using a brush (as you would for your own hair). re. bathing your dog between grooms, no real need unless the dog is stinky inbetween.
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Vets/nurses Name Of Powder When Quick Cut
becks replied to emery's topic in Health / Nutrition / Grooming
I've found a bar of soap the best. Quick stop seems to go off before I need to use it. Condys is nigh on impossible to get hold of here (last bit was donated from my vet!)