becks

Yep, correct. I forgot about the thyroid bit. But then I have known dogs that have thyroid problems that are on seaweed/kelp products to no detriment what so ever. But then as we all know every dog is different. I also suspect the that the waring is there to protect the manufacturer just in case. Like I said, it depends which type of thyroid problem it is!

No-one who uses prong collars properly uses 'extreme pain' as a teaching tool. But I'm sure you knew that ;) Begs the question - how many are used incorrectly?

That's a terrible wait! Did they warn you it would be so long?

I use a form for a few reasons, I am shocking at remembering things people have said to me, especially over the phone, a lot of the details on the form then get used to filling out the paperwork when the pups go (plus their postcode can be checked as valid and google earth shows the type of house/garden) and I can print it out and recap who the person is who is coming to see the pups, so we can chat about previous pets they have had and anything else on the form that I 'flag' if this hasn't been metioned earlier. If someone reacts like the puppy person in the OP, then it does't bother me, just one more less desirable home for a pup.

YOU could be the Northern outpost Becks....the UK franchise fifi We could use a good whelping supplies place, the ones here don't have much of anything!

It has been available for years, ProDen have the world patent on the claims that this particular seaweed can clean plaque off, so is probably different to the other one mentioned in the thread that goes in water. However, it isn't a miracle cure and seems to work to a degree for some dogs but not for all (I have trialed it in the past!) It is also high in iodine, so care should be taken with dogs who have thyroid problems (can never remember if it is hypo or hyper!)

Great to see more mini schnauzers on the forum! The white chins are classed as a mismark (often from mixed colour breeding), sometimes they fade to black as the pup gets older, same with white toes, sometimes they go, sometimes they stay (I find white toesnails mean the white paw will stay)

I find it easy to keep them in sight of each other, so the boy knows no one else is having fun with her either!

Thanks for the update, hope he returns to normal soon.

I'd leave him to it unless it looks to be getting worse. You may find he has a white scar there for awhile but the colour should return later

Not sure I fit into this category as i got my first dog at 4 years old ad have lived with at least one dog every since. The first dog I bought and chose myself though was my Giant Schnauzer (had a few minis up the then). The breeder assured me they were just a bigger version of a mini but for the first 10 months she was a nightmare, even with a couple of daily walks and games and training plus classes at least 3 times a week, she was a destruction cyclone who would just howl and toilet if crated instead. There were a few times that were very close to taking her back to the breeder (lucky for me he was a 4 hour drive away), she has turned into the BEST dog and will be 13 next month ad we have had so many adventures together. However, if she had ended up in the hands of someone who wasn't going to put the work in or as has happened to some of her breed - get shut out in the garden or shed full time, then she would have turned into a very difficult dog.

So things like dam stepping on pup or pup having a fall could influence hip score later on?

I had an older dog with it and knew someone with a young rescue who also had it, both required drops on a regular basis throughout the day and if they were forgotten the dog would get green goo in the eye and an infection start up, so it's best to keep up with the artificial tears.

Just been reading through the second link - is he serious? I can't believe anyone can do all the things he suggests

Was she OK on her previous diet? Was that just euk? It could be as simple as you giving her to many new things to eat in such a short space of time and her stomach not adjusting well. If the sickness is new since she moved in with you, I'd put her back to a very basic diet and take a couple of weeks to introduce again each new item at a time ie. chicken mince for a couple of weeks, then maybe add a different mince or chicken wings for the next couple of weeks into her diet. This way you can see if it is one of the new foods being a problem. It may also be best to feed kibble as a separate meal to fresh food.

What is she like with your other dogs? I would judge her from that view point then how she is with her daughters.

I presume they are under the umbrella of the UK company, have you tried contacting the UK company and complaining to Head Office?

I think the point is that ANY breed can be affected with HD. Lilli do any breeders in your breed to hips or elbows? Also is your breed one that has a high pain tolerance and still gets on with life? I ask because in my thread you said if you can't see a problem in your dogs then they don't have a problem - but are they the type of breed (like other breeds) who don't show they are in pain until things are really bad? This type of thinking seems to be amoung the GS breeders to a degree and only recently are some starting to score - while most(of the handful to be scored) hips are good there have been a couple with really high scores (one that I have seen has no problem moving and being a clown) (glad I have sporned such an interesting new thread!)

It's just finding them and being able to understand them! I know the Scandinavian countries have public databases BUT they aren't much use when you don't understand the language to get around the site - and then these dogs tend not to be in the lines I am interested in! Other euro countries i have seen scores listed on pedigrees on websites - but who know how truthful these are? Thanks for the links Sway! Still interested in hearing where people would draw the line with hips of different values. Also how easy is it to damage a hip on a puppy to cause an uneven score?

http://www.dogfoodproject.com Plenty of reading there about the good and bad of kibble

Ask if the vet nurse will do the nails instead of the vet. Or seek out a local groomers, I do nails for any dog without an appointment.

Not just about exercise, pup needs to go out on their own to explore the world without constantly having backup! But as the others have said, just be careful what areas you walk your dog while pup is still at home, although with one vaccination already done, there is still some immunity and it will be good for pup to go out (carried or in car) to see new things before fully vaccinated.

That can have a lot to do with it, especially if she has a bit of a timid nature to begin with. How often do you take her out on her own now? Clicker training is a good suggestion, starting when she is comfortable with something and slowly getting closer to what bothers her, but at each step rewarding for the calm, composed, confident dog.

http://www.future-of-vaccination.co.uk/vaccine-schedule-nobivac.asp My vets use the nobivac (whic over rides dams immunity to pups), so pups are first done at 6 - 8 weeks and then at 10 weeks and that is it until their first yearly booster. The youngest a pup can be fully vaccinated is 10 weeks, so it make little difference when the first one is done (6-8 weeks old) so long as there are 2 weeks between 1st and 2nd. I will be using this with my new puppy so she can go out at 11 weeks of age. My vets say that if you have had pup vaccinated with a different brand by the breeder, then it should be 3 weeks between 1st and 2nd vacc BUT the products aren't licensed to be used like this (so it is done at owners risk!) which is why a lot of vets insist on starting again with their own brand of vaccine. Of course this is in the UK and austrailian vets seem to have very different views.

Wouldn't worry about something so small as that.